Got to learn how to diagnose components man, make your life so much easier, leave the guess work out of it & save you lots of time and frustration man.
Alright Nino, I`ve just watched all the videos on this. Way back in the first video, that bare wire at the back of the engine rang massive alarm bells & I said out loud "wiring loom", everything you`ve done since then just confirms that for me again & again. There may be one or two other things that aren't quite right, but the primary thing is to sort that loom out.
Just a quick thought, had a similar issue on a Ford Focus 2.0 duratec, would start, run till it warmed up then cut out. Solution after a lengthy trial and error diagnostic attempt was to unplug the EGR valve, it ran fine. The problem was the EGR valve was sticking open when it opened up ie when it warmed up and I put my foot down, it felt like fuel starvation, the EGR is meant to open up and close at various throttle positions, it recirculates all the sooty, oily carbon gunky exhaust gases back through into the inlet for increased mpg and reduced emissions. Now they do clog up, it might be you could take it off and clean it up, I tried that with mine and it partially cured it for a short time. Ultimately I changed it out for a new one. So unplug it first, try that, if no change, try cleaning it out. Best of luck figuring it out. Note when buying parts- shop around, recently had to buy a new engine mount for my focus, was quoted £191, tried my local budget parts shop, who are ususlly very cheap, they could get it for £90, rang another place £60. Even tried a Scrapyard they wanted £20 for one off a similar age car that was probably as knackered as mine! Got the part number from ford tapped it into Amazon, BOOM one brand new Febi Bilstein £31 with free delivery, get in!! Quality was better than what was fitted as standard.😀 Also check your part number and cross reference it with sites like auto doc, or even try Febi Bilstein website they also do cam sensors etc They might be expensive but you could tap that part number in to Amazon or Ebay etc There are always alternative part numbers from other makers that will be exactly the same.
Thanks for all that info, bud 👍🏻 One thing I've started doing is first looking at parts on AutoDoc before anywhere else because they give you all the alternative part numbers from different manufacturers. I then just start searching around all the different sites like you said. The problem I have though is that I sometimes just need the part as soon as possible so that I can get these videos out, so I have to pay a premium. It's a bit annoying, but that's just how it goes!
@@NotEconomicallyViable You're welcome, I know how frustrating diagnosing an engine issue can be! With my Ford I went on the forums put in my engine symptoms and got back the multitude of usual standard replies, fixes I already tried- 'oh it's your plugs', 'no it's the coils', 'fuel filter blocked', 'defo your crank sensor', ' 'no, I had this exact same thing, turned out it was a mouse eaten through the loom in the boot'😲😁 Thing is it could be anything electrical or fuel related, even an intermittent electronic fault like a bad ECU or faulty loom etc But definitely worth checking your EGR it's something a lot overlook, gets blocked up, especially on higher mileage engines, will give erratic running like this because at cold start it doesn't open until it warms up, then it's meant to pulse open under certain throttle conditions, to let a blast of exhaust gases and recirculate it into the inlet, what happens on a clogged up EGR it sticks open, now part of your exhaust gases are going directly back into your inlet causing the engine to cut out. I'm assuming as it cools down the valve closes again so it will start next time. Unplugging it stops it from being activated or opened, it will throw an engine fault code but will run fine without the EGR plugged in. Keep in mind if the EGR is stuck open or half open, it will still run erratically or cut out, in that case worth removing it and cleaning it out with carb cleaner, there are specific EGR cleaning methods typically a spray can used while the engine is running and EGR in situ but they're not as effective as physically removing and cleaning it. You'll figure it out. 👍 So either way an easy check to rule it out if nothing else. The other thing to check, not sure if your engine has an Idle Air Control Valve IACV or ICV ? It controls idle speed, causes cutting out and generally poor running. I had issues with a 1990s ford Granada with this issue, again easy to clean out and fixed my poor running Granada.
Hi Nino I had an old W123 that had the same issue in that it would just suddenly die, usually at Traffic Lights, but at any most inconvenient place suited it just fine. Anyway, I took it to an Auto Sparky and he discovered a corroded "Earth Strap". This is a long thin piece of Brass with holes drilled in it and resides somewhere in the passenger footwell under the dash. Basically, it creates a short and shuts everything down. I think most of the components are fine. Given the other evidence of corrosion you have in the Car, I would explore that avenue. At the time we also replaced the fuel pump relay at some ridiculously outrageous price, only to be told by the aforementioned Auto Sparky that the same relay is in an Opel/Holden Camira and could be bought for $30.00. Regards John from Oz
The sensor is easily tested by moving magnet in front of the tip, while monitoring the output by a scope. This sensor works with a spinning tooth wheel, with one missing tooth to mark rotation beginning.
So I went and bought myself a project car Mercedes 220e W124 1993, and in the process now of having the wiring harness rebuilt, the car had been left under a tree for 12 years, i nearly gave up until I started watching your videos, so I back on the project, Incidentally where do you get most of your parts for your merc, and did you do another video replacing the harness.? absolutely love the channel.
I have started to follow your video recently. The problem I have is that I really cont see what the proper order is to see them. The Mercedes has about 5 videos, but do not have a number. It is better, I think, if you would give the videos a number. So, Mercedes part 1, Mercedes part 2 etc etc. This makes it easier for people, even after a year, to watch them as you go. I cant wait to see what the problem is with the old German lady...I think it is coilpack related. Kind regards from the Netherlands
I love your videos, one thing with the CPS, that sensor will always read from the moment you crank your engine no matter if the engine is HOT or COLD, hence why you see issues with cars where they won't start full stop with a faulty CPS 🙂 hope you get this oldey fixed soon though 👌
Electronics engineer here. It seems to me like a problem when the ecu switches from open loop to closed loop. Now I'm not certain what ever sensors are used in closed loop apart from the exhaust o2/lamba sensor would be one to test as the ecu uses that sensor to control how much fuel to out in the engine and only in closed loop mode. The ecu knows to start closed loop control by the coolant temperature. You could try a fixed resistor in the temperature sensor plug (to set something like 20 degrees) and see if it cuts out then or not If it does still cutout, well shit..however if it doesn't (may run rough and with a high idle) then I'd change the o2 sensor.
And with all that been said can I make some suggestions?! I have read through the comments and I think that they have a valid point. I can see that most of the things that I wanted to mention have been discussed already but I still want to comment on some of them. Probably if you change the position of the spark plug cables in the right order the engine will start to run properly again. I completely agree that you have to replace the wiring of the car. The crankshaft position sensor was solid candidate to be the cause of the problem as suggested the ECU is very strong candidate the coils and the relays can make the engine to cut off. On some cars when the fuel pump runs for some time and it gets warmer it stop working properly but I think that the fuel relay is more likely to fail in this situation. I know that you had problems with one of the relays on this car already so you can see my point. I have all so had some problems with them as well and I know that it can be frustrating to deal with problems like this. W124 have this accumulator next to the fuel filter which can cause a lot of problems for example loss of fuel pressure and some times poor starting and more. Another common problem they have is clogged fuel or screen filter which is mounted in the base of the fuel thank. But it is going to be best if you start the engine and let it run to the point when it begins to cut off and perform some tests to determine if the ignition system is the problem or the fuel system basically if it has spark and fuel in that moment. To check how much fuel or if there is any fuel coming from the fuel pump simply disconnect the supplying fuel line and place the hose into a container and crank the engine. To check for spark simply pull out any spark plug cable use a spare spark plug with this cable somewhere to touch the engine for ground and you can see if there is a spark. You may already know this but I just wanted to mention that you can check the resistance of the different sensors before replacing them if you search online you can probably find the proper value for the resistance of most of the sensors at the different engine temperatures. Good luck with your project!
I had O2 sensor issue with 1992 Audi. Engine just died when heated up. Cause O2 sensor gives info to computer about mixture based on exhaust gases. And computer than regulates fuel pressure in system via EHR (electronic hydraulic pressure regulator ). Atleast it's is in old Audi's bosch fuel systems! Don't give up! Good luck, patients! Greetings from Latvia 🇱🇻
Hiya Nico. Still having problems running when just starting....was having a think about this and I know this goes against the grain of current electrical woes ( small joke in there) ....it may just be fuel starvation.....pump building up pressure/quantity in fuel rails at start, but then when engine running it (the pump) can't keep up...had similar fault on numerous cars.....pick up pipe/fuel filter blocked...was just letting enough fuel through for initial start....run for a little while then chug chug to a halt....May be worth starting car, and as soon as possible after it inevitably stops, whip fuel line off to check for flow....or you could always put a transparent fuel filter in engine bay and watch filter until car dies, at least then you know that there is fuel getting through...only trying to help.. Bill
Hi Nino. Just watched all your vids on the 220ce but the issue was unresolved. I can't find any further updates and would love to find out how you got on with it, as I'm sure loads of others are. Really hope you got to the bottom of it and you managed to get it started for your 'round the block' spin. Cheers
I agree with some comments below. Electrical could be dead end. I personally believe is fuel starvation AND IN PARTICULAR, water in fuel. You can get water in fuel from ACTUAL filling stations, especially if that station has less reliable tanks and in wet weather water gets in. Personally I would DRAIN THE TANK and FUEL RAILS, then refill whilst also adding some injector cleaner or an actual additive you can buy to decrease / eliminate water in system. Try this, much easier than all other stuff you are doing...
This is diagnosis the old fashioned way.long before you could go on Amazon and buy a so called,", diagnosis tool" for the price of a gobble. But saying that.a diagnosis tool is only as good as the person using it . On the forum I work on loads of thease members come on with a fault, and buy the time they ask us a question they have replaced parts because there scan tool says it's that . and they believe it ! So we always say go back to basics. It's wonderful to see you not afraid to have a go ! Which is how we use to do it . Yep cars have come on a long way.and I worked for Volvo in the 1980's/90's . I'm thinking aloud here but could it be temperature sensor for the ECU ,? Any way keep on doing what you are doing . Fantastic,!
Personally if changing sensors, coil packs, mag sensors, wiring looms doesn’t cure the problem then your issue is with the Main ECU because that controls everything on the engine. I had a baffling issue with a 1998 Fiat Cinquecento that kept cutting out, it would start from cold quite happily, then just cut out and wouldn’t restart until it had gone cold again. I replaced, the throttle body, crank position sensor, coil packs, wiring, and this did nothing. In the end I paid an auto electrician to come and try and diagnose the issue, it turned out the ECU was switching off the Ignition part of the engine management system so as soon as the engine had warmed up the ignition circuit turned off power to the coil packs and the crank sensor. So to sort the problem out I would have needed a new ECU or the original one repaired. I never got it fixed because at that point I’d lost heart with it and got rid.
Ahh that's interesting. A couple of people have now said it might be an ECU issues, so it's definitely something I'll have to look into if a new wiring loom doesn't fix the problem
@@NotEconomicallyViable You could try this When it cuts out, take out a spark plug and see if there’s a spark when you crank the engine over. You may need an assistant.
Similar problem on my 2001 E2220CDI, engine dead in the middle of the road. On my Mechanic's advise, changed both Crankshaft and Camshaft positioning sensors at the same time (€30+€40). Now OK. Good luck.
I had the same trouble with my E 200 T. So I can tell you a trick. Buy yourself some good quality wire in different colours and matching thickness. I took some silicone wires. You can take the whole engine wire harness out of the car in one piece. It takes one or two hours, but it works. I put it on a table and removed all the wrapping. So vou have all the wires in front of you. At some places they were bare for 10 centimetres. Especially the wires to the injectors. Then I cut one random wire about one centimetre behind the plug. Soldered a new cable to the centimetre I left on the plug and put some shrink hose over it. And then you can trace that cut wire to the next plug. Cut it also a centimetre before the plug and solder your new cable with the same length as the cut out to this plug. And so you can do one wire after the other. When all is new, wrap it in some fabric tape and put it back. It will take you some hours and cost you 50 Pounds but you have a all brand new and better as ever wire harness. It worked for me almost 200k Kilometres and, maybe still today, but I stupid dumbass sold the car.
Appreciate the advice. I don't know how much I'd trust that last centimetre of wire. I'd be tempted to go right up to the connector. What do you reckon?
@@NotEconomicallyViable I only used that centimetre for soldering. The crunchy isolation was removed completely. Then I soldered the new wire to that rest and covered It in shrinking Hose. If I remember right I did that twice. My problem was the price of the parts. So I reused what was still good. If I would had a good and cheap way for new parts I would have done it completely new, but the prices and availability of the parts are.....let's say interesting.
@@NotEconomicallyViable 😁 Jep. That was exactly my problem, too. So I kept the ones I had. Such tiny little things can be very expensive. Especially when some people really need those. Like you. 😁 But the car is worth it. My W124 was the best car I ever had. No big problems beside the wiring. Because it was a T Model it had to wire the backdoor too. But all the rest ..straight awesome.
The crankspeed sensor measures speed and crank position. The ECU reads information from this sensor as soon as you crank the engine. Its a Hall sensor theres a toothed speed ring attached to the crank or on the crank pulley with so many slots around it and a gap = to 2 teeth when the cps is in line with the gap this = around 60 degrees btdc at this point it looks at coolant temp, crank rpm, throttle body position (load) and looks at the Map on the ecu to determine the ignition advance. Open and Closed loop is to do with when the ecu takes mixture information from the O2 sensor. This sensor monitors the fuel air ratio or mixture. The ideal mixture is 14.6 :1 (air to fuel) great for the environment but no good for cold starts or when you want to overtake. So the engine will start off in Open loop for cold start ups (choke) Change to closed loop so ecu takes and reacts to the O2 sensor but will jump to Open loop if you give it some welly WOT - hope this helps You got the Dis or waste spark correct though
The crank position sensor you brought first is the same as the one on my 2002 Mercedes SLK 320 so it is the right one for the V6 3.2L engine but not the 2.2L 4 cylinder
I would put a multimeter on the fuel pump and see if it loses volts when the engine dies. That would tell me the fuel pump relay contacts were opening at that point. Then I would want to know why. Is the fuel pump relay there to stop the fuel flow in case of a crash ? Maybe it thinks the engine has stopped running (even though it is running), and so cuts the fuel stopping it. Remove the fuel pump relay and jumper it at the relay socket and see if the engine runs continuously. Fuel pump relay is probably looking for rotation using a crank/cam sensor or ignition sparks, etc.
I’ve owned a lot of these Merc’s. Every one of them I bought for pennies because of unknown faults, which I knew were the soy based engine loom. I spent a week or so rebuilding looms, some with the original connectors. The splitting of the wire sleaving was from ECU plug, right to ever end section, shorting everything everywhere. The symptoms were the usually crap idle, stalling, rough starting, etc. it’s the main reason so many didn’t survive, despite being absolute tanks.
Hi, Have a little experience working on Mercs back in the late 80's into the early 90's, depending on engine type & fuel injection system the cold start regulator played up a fair bit. On a side note check leads, plugs, fuel filter if not done so already. Thanks.
I would still suggest using easy start to try and identify if a fuel or ignition issue. When it is running and starts to stall, by using easy start you may be able to keep it running if a fuel issue. If an ignition issue it would just stall.
Dead Miss, quite simply visibile. The best thing to do right now is to watch Pine Hollow Auto Diagnostics, I'm pretty sure he has got a couple of videos regarding W124 and issues similar to yours.
Some components are extremely difficult to find,if you haven’t worked on that model vehicle before ,took me half hour to locate oil filter on RX. 300 Lexus
Still think it might be the fuel pump / main relay board. So common in 90s Mercs where the circuit board used in quite a few big chunky relays heats up then loses continuity due to bad solders. Would explain the cutting out immediately after warm up, just like the open to closed loop scenarios. Once you have sorted your misfire, please try a different fuel pump / main board relay or research the issue.
@@NotEconomicallyViable No, it was something my father mentioned (from his days owning a W124 190e as he is a Mercedes man through and through - his 2005 E320 is an awesome car) when we were discussing your issue(s) and he probably meant the main fuse board (where the fuel pump relay resides). On a great deal of W124 from this era the relays are round pin circuit board type chunky offerings and the circuit boards go bad inside. For example the KPR relays part number 003 545 20 05 (not checked as specific to your car). There are similar multifunctional relays that cover several parts / circuits which can set off multiple warning lights if bad. If I were chasing down the issue my first points of call would be a) refresh ignition system so engine runs smoothly b) replace engine loom eliminates any wiring faults c) see if the cut out still occurs Engine cut out is a fairly common issue on W124 models 92 to 96 as you know, unfortunately.
Reference the Mercedes W124 my friend had.he had a misfire issue and that turned out to be the ECU. Ended up getting a used ECU from Germany and that fixed it. He had the biodegradable wiring and had attempted to repair it and failed,the car was a nightmare but he loved it.
I assume this car has gone now. I had the EXACT SAME PROBLEM with my MGB. It was the ignition coil. When it got hot, the resistance would break down inside it and cut out.
I think this might help, one of the youtubers was dealing with same issue of a different car, where he had the engine ECU on top of the engine, and one the engine is on running tepm, the ECU would heat up causing internal component to expand and and small broken solderings\connecctions to come apart and car shutting of. I guess this is similar issue, maybe something is disconnecting after being hot enough, maybe very close to heat source (engine), and it could be the coils.
Nino you are doing a great job mate and learning as you go but i think it is time to bite the bullet and change the loom. Just think how much money you would have saved to put towards the Aston. Good luck you will get there in the end.
There's a TH-cam channel called fix your Mercedes. I'm not sure I think the guy is Albanian but it's brilliant. He's English is not that good but he explains in depth as well as practical guides to all things W124's as well as how to test components. Have a look. And good luck.
I know this is old now but i had something similar, i needed a crankshaft position sensor and everytime i bought one it was a camshaft position sensor. I ended up buying a genuine Hyundai part to solve the issue
I would try some fresh fuel, see the lights on maybe some decent petrol and go from there. I always work off suck, squeeze, bang, blow. Check all the elements in that order.
Your kinda right and wrong about open and closed loop. open loop is the short period of time that the ecu doesn’t use the lambda sensor for fueling feedback, in this period the lambda is warning up. Once the lambda had warmed up, the ecu uses the lambda feedback for fueling.
Have you thought about getting the computer checked? It sounds like to me that everything starts up okay when it’s cold and then when it gets hot the whole lot cut out so there could be something not quite right in the car computer and being a very old car, I would suspect capacitors in the computer. I’m not working like that.
Do them engines have a cold start valve on them (like an automatic choke but for a fuel injection engined car) or does it have leaking/weeping injectors as that would cause it to stall once it ran for a specific length of time.
Good luck. That sensor you pulled off the car looks like it’s been on forever. if it is just that sensor that has failed the great work. Hope it works out
Definitely check coils,plugs and HT leads and that they are on the right way around. Sounds like an ignition problem for sure also some of these things need to be reset when putting back on?
You'll get there nino. First thing I'd do with that is do the loom. Then that's ruled out. It's deffo misfiring so you need to find out for sure where the ht lead so to the plugs. Then the cranksensor. If after all that it's still the same the next port of call is the ecu. There may be somewhere that can check/repair them in the UK? Anyway man, keep at it your doing great and warm regards from Ireland from a clk owner.
Great videos really enjoy them just my two cents i do not believe the crank position sensor is going to solve the problem i am along the lines of a vaccumm leak possibly split in a hose somewhere causing too much air.
Hi very nice video! First I want to start by congratulate you for creating this great channel with good car selection, interesting projects, informative and straight to the point videos overall great content! I have been trying to do the same myself for some time now sow I can appreciate the effort that you have put in your channel. I have the same project car Mercedes W124 actually I have bought 3 of them almost at the same time. I am yet to begin the real work on my cars but I have done some work on them just enough to know how difficult can it be to pinpoint the cause of a particular problem they may have. I am rooting for you! Everyone can see that you`ve learn a ton of stuff in such a short time. I have spent so much time around cars and still don`t think I understand them all that good.
Hi mate are you sure that's the crack position sensor you have changed it looks to me that that was the Speedo sensor as it was on the gearbox and I think the misfire will be the leads the wrong way round
When I ordered the part using the part number they were all listed as crankshaft position sensors 🤷🏼♂️ I did reverse the leads, but it made no difference bud
I am just a poor amateur but i do not understand that you are doing the trial and error methode. You have a fancy scantool, these tools should be able to test al sensors on your engine. Of course with the sensors still on the engine, never the less. I love the trial and error methode and i love your videos this is not a negative comment. I am sure that WE al together can fix your Benz. Good luck ....
@@NotEconomicallyViable i see. I have the same car,well almost same, mine is sedan, but engine is the same. And i had similar issues. Wiring loom is not that big task to do, its a bit tedious, i admit, but if you go wire by wire, you will be able to do it. Only thing which was annoying were plugs for throttle body and MAF. You have to cut them with dremel to reach the pins. Plug for throttle body(from wiring loom) can be coroded,as was mine, so keep that in mind. Also, if you want better acces to coils, remove the bracket supporting the intake, its just 3 bolts, on this bracket you will find throttle body plug as well. But i have to say that once this was done, its really a nice car to drive. Hope you won't give up on it. Best regards!
In the end there it was misfiring badly/not running on all 4 thats clearly the sound of a 2 and 1/2 cylinder engine which suggests issues with the ignition or injection. (or did you have the wrong firing order on the spark plug wires?) My first thought in the first episode was that there's something wrong with the *throttle body and/or the Idle Air Control valve* (or however this car is controlling idle air) though I think you never mentioned if it also cuts out when keeping it at 2000-3000rpm manually or just at idle? That would've been an important piece of evidence for trouble shooting imho. Since it starts at a higher rpm and then idles down to 1200 and then idles down even more but cuts out at the same time I would've guessed that the idle control doesn't work as intended. Also those values are timed based on engine temperature I assume and if the engine is just slightly warm it doesn't go into high idle at all. (Thats at least how my cars of that era usually behaved) But if course that theory is only valid if it doesn't cut out when keeping it at a higher rpm. I guess now with it misfiring and it seemingly gotten worse the more you touched it a new wiring loom is definately the way to go before doing any more trouble shooting.
Got to learn how to diagnose components man, make your life so much easier, leave the guess work out of it & save you lots of time and frustration man.
This is all part of the process. Don’t forget that at the start of the year I knew nothing about how to fix cars. Quite happy with my progress so far.
what does that mean
@@NotEconomicallyViable you were on the right track with the spark issue, a bad crank sensor usually ends up with a no start period.
Ok man. Take it easy man.
Rough running and dying when off cold, really sounds like ignition. Replace HT leads , rewire the coil 12v wires and measure the coil resistance.
Alright Nino, I`ve just watched all the videos on this. Way back in the first video, that bare wire at the back of the engine rang massive alarm bells & I said out loud "wiring loom", everything you`ve done since then just confirms that for me again & again. There may be one or two other things that aren't quite right, but the primary thing is to sort that loom out.
Just a quick thought, had a similar issue on a Ford Focus 2.0 duratec, would start, run till it warmed up then cut out.
Solution after a lengthy trial and error diagnostic attempt was to unplug the EGR valve, it ran fine.
The problem was the EGR valve was sticking open when it opened up ie when it warmed up and I put my foot down, it felt like fuel starvation, the EGR is meant to open up and close at various throttle positions, it recirculates all the sooty, oily carbon gunky exhaust gases back through into the inlet for increased mpg and reduced emissions.
Now they do clog up, it might be you could take it off and clean it up, I tried that with mine and it partially cured it for a short time.
Ultimately I changed it out for a new one.
So unplug it first, try that, if no change, try cleaning it out.
Best of luck figuring it out.
Note when buying parts- shop around, recently had to buy a new engine mount for my focus, was quoted £191, tried my local budget parts shop, who are ususlly very cheap, they could get it for £90, rang another place £60.
Even tried a Scrapyard they wanted £20 for one off a similar age car that was probably as knackered as mine!
Got the part number from ford tapped it into Amazon, BOOM one brand new Febi Bilstein £31 with free delivery, get in!! Quality was better than what was fitted as standard.😀
Also check your part number and cross reference it with sites like auto doc, or even try Febi Bilstein website they also do cam sensors etc
They might be expensive but you could tap that part number in to Amazon or Ebay etc
There are always alternative part numbers from other makers that will be exactly the same.
Thanks for all that info, bud 👍🏻
One thing I've started doing is first looking at parts on AutoDoc before anywhere else because they give you all the alternative part numbers from different manufacturers. I then just start searching around all the different sites like you said.
The problem I have though is that I sometimes just need the part as soon as possible so that I can get these videos out, so I have to pay a premium. It's a bit annoying, but that's just how it goes!
@@NotEconomicallyViable You're welcome, I know how frustrating diagnosing an engine issue can be!
With my Ford I went on the forums put in my engine symptoms and got back the multitude of usual standard replies, fixes I already tried-
'oh it's your plugs',
'no it's the coils',
'fuel filter blocked',
'defo your crank sensor', '
'no, I had this exact same thing, turned out it was a mouse eaten through the loom in the boot'😲😁
Thing is it could be anything electrical or fuel related, even an intermittent electronic fault like a bad ECU or faulty loom etc
But definitely worth checking your EGR it's something a lot overlook, gets blocked up, especially on higher mileage engines, will give erratic running like this because at cold start it doesn't open until it warms up, then it's meant to pulse open under certain throttle conditions, to let a blast of exhaust gases and recirculate it into the inlet, what happens on a clogged up EGR it sticks open, now part of your exhaust gases are going directly back into your inlet causing the engine to cut out.
I'm assuming as it cools down the valve closes again so it will start next time.
Unplugging it stops it from being activated or opened, it will throw an engine fault code but will run fine without the EGR plugged in.
Keep in mind if the EGR is stuck open or half open, it will still run erratically or cut out, in that case worth removing it and cleaning it out with carb cleaner, there are specific EGR cleaning methods typically a spray can used while the engine is running and EGR in situ but they're not as effective as physically removing and cleaning it.
You'll figure it out. 👍
So either way an easy check to rule it out if nothing else.
The other thing to check, not sure if your engine has an Idle Air Control Valve IACV or ICV ?
It controls idle speed, causes cutting out and generally poor running.
I had issues with a 1990s ford Granada with this issue, again easy to clean out and fixed my poor running Granada.
That makes complete sense. Will definitely have to take a look into it 👍🏻 Really appreciate this bud
Im just like this guy. Cant rest untill its fixed
Would love to see an update on this car. :)
There’s an update in my most recent video 👍🏻
@@NotEconomicallyViable Which recent video did you update us on the Merc 220E please? I'm just playing catch-up at the moment 🙂
Hi Nino
I had an old W123 that had the same issue in that it would just suddenly die, usually at Traffic Lights, but at any most inconvenient place suited it just fine.
Anyway, I took it to an Auto Sparky and he discovered a corroded "Earth Strap". This is a long thin piece of Brass with holes drilled in it and resides somewhere in the passenger footwell under the dash. Basically, it creates a short and shuts everything down.
I think most of the components are fine.
Given the other evidence of corrosion you have in the Car, I would explore that avenue.
At the time we also replaced the fuel pump relay at some ridiculously outrageous price, only to be told by the aforementioned Auto Sparky that the same relay is in an Opel/Holden Camira and could be bought for $30.00.
Regards
John from Oz
The sensor is easily tested by moving magnet in front of the tip, while monitoring the output by a scope. This sensor works with a spinning tooth wheel, with one missing tooth to mark rotation beginning.
So I went and bought myself a project car Mercedes 220e W124 1993, and in the process now of having the wiring harness rebuilt, the car had been left under a tree for 12 years, i nearly gave up until I started watching your videos, so I back on the project, Incidentally where do you get most of your parts for your merc, and did you do another video replacing the harness.? absolutely love the channel.
I have started to follow your video recently. The problem I have is that I really cont see what the proper order is to see them. The Mercedes has about 5 videos, but do not have a number. It is better, I think, if you would give the videos a number. So, Mercedes part 1, Mercedes part 2 etc etc. This makes it easier for people, even after a year, to watch them as you go. I cant wait to see what the problem is with the old German lady...I think it is coilpack related. Kind regards from the Netherlands
If you go to my channel and click on playlists you can see all the videos for each car in order 👍🏻
You have amazing patience. I think it'll be well paid though!
I love your videos, one thing with the CPS, that sensor will always read from the moment you crank your engine no matter if the engine is HOT or COLD, hence why you see issues with cars where they won't start full stop with a faulty CPS 🙂 hope you get this oldey fixed soon though 👌
Thanks for that info - helps me out a bunch 👍🏻
Electronics engineer here.
It seems to me like a problem when the ecu switches from open loop to closed loop.
Now I'm not certain what ever sensors are used in closed loop apart from the exhaust o2/lamba sensor would be one to test as the ecu uses that sensor to control how much fuel to out in the engine and only in closed loop mode.
The ecu knows to start closed loop control by the coolant temperature.
You could try a fixed resistor in the temperature sensor plug (to set something like 20 degrees) and see if it cuts out then or not
If it does still cutout, well shit..however if it doesn't (may run rough and with a high idle) then I'd change the o2 sensor.
And with all that been said can I make some suggestions?! I have read through the comments and I think that they have a valid point. I can see that most of the things that I wanted to mention have been discussed already but I still want to comment on some of them. Probably if you change the position of the spark plug cables in the right order the engine will start to run properly again. I completely agree that you have to replace the wiring of the car. The crankshaft position sensor was solid candidate to be the cause of the problem as suggested the ECU is very strong candidate the coils and the relays can make the engine to cut off. On some cars when the fuel pump runs for some time and it gets warmer it stop working properly but I think that the fuel relay is more likely to fail in this situation. I know that you had problems with one of the relays on this car already so you can see my point. I have all so had some problems with them as well and I know that it can be frustrating to deal with problems like this. W124 have this accumulator next to the fuel filter which can cause a lot of problems for example loss of fuel pressure and some times poor starting and more. Another common problem they have is clogged fuel or screen filter which is mounted in the base of the fuel thank. But it is going to be best if you start the engine and let it run to the point when it begins to cut off and perform some tests to determine if the ignition system is the problem or the fuel system basically if it has spark and fuel in that moment. To check how much fuel or if there is any fuel coming from the fuel pump simply disconnect the supplying fuel line and place the hose into a container and crank the engine. To check for spark simply pull out any spark plug cable use a spare spark plug with this cable somewhere to touch the engine for ground and you can see if there is a spark. You may already know this but I just wanted to mention that you can check the resistance of the different sensors before replacing them if you search online you can probably find the proper value for the resistance of most of the sensors at the different engine temperatures. Good luck with your project!
Hi, ignition fault, another thing to check I see a red led right side below dash, could be after market ignition immobiliser
Hi Mate I hope you are well? I haven't seen any videos from you in over 2 months. I loved watching them and was looking out for them.
I had O2 sensor issue with 1992 Audi. Engine just died when heated up. Cause O2 sensor gives info to computer about mixture based on exhaust gases. And computer than regulates fuel pressure in system via EHR (electronic hydraulic pressure regulator ). Atleast it's is in old Audi's bosch fuel systems!
Don't give up! Good luck, patients!
Greetings from Latvia 🇱🇻
Hiya Nico. Still having problems running when just starting....was having a think about this and I know this goes against the grain of current electrical woes ( small joke in there) ....it may just be fuel starvation.....pump building up pressure/quantity in fuel rails at start, but then when engine running it (the pump) can't keep up...had similar fault on numerous cars.....pick up pipe/fuel filter blocked...was just letting enough fuel through for initial start....run for a little while then chug chug to a halt....May be worth starting car, and as soon as possible after it inevitably stops, whip fuel line off to check for flow....or you could always put a transparent fuel filter in engine bay and watch filter until car dies, at least then you know that there is fuel getting through...only trying to help..
Bill
That's a really great point - I'll definitely have to take a look into it 👍🏻
6:04 The E in 220E inducates fuel injection. It is not an E class.
Hi Nino. Just watched all your vids on the 220ce but the issue was unresolved. I can't find any further updates and would love to find out how you got on with it, as I'm sure loads of others are. Really hope you got to the bottom of it and you managed to get it started for your 'round the block' spin. Cheers
I agree with some comments below. Electrical could be dead end. I personally believe is fuel starvation AND IN PARTICULAR, water in fuel. You can get water in fuel from ACTUAL filling stations, especially if that station has less reliable tanks and in wet weather water gets in. Personally I would DRAIN THE TANK and FUEL RAILS, then refill whilst also adding some injector cleaner or an actual additive you can buy to decrease / eliminate water in system. Try this, much easier than all other stuff you are doing...
This is diagnosis the old fashioned way.long before you could go on Amazon and buy a so called,", diagnosis tool" for the price of a gobble.
But saying that.a diagnosis tool is only as good as the person using it .
On the forum I work on loads of thease members come on with a fault, and buy the time they ask us a question they have replaced parts because there scan tool says it's that . and they believe it !
So we always say go back to basics.
It's wonderful to see you not afraid to have a go !
Which is how we use to do it .
Yep cars have come on a long way.and I worked for Volvo in the 1980's/90's .
I'm thinking aloud here but could it be temperature sensor for the ECU ,?
Any way keep on doing what you are doing .
Fantastic,!
Personally if changing sensors, coil packs, mag sensors, wiring looms doesn’t cure the problem then your issue is with the Main ECU because that controls everything on the engine.
I had a baffling issue with a 1998 Fiat Cinquecento that kept cutting out, it would start from cold quite happily, then just cut out and wouldn’t restart until it had gone cold again.
I replaced, the throttle body, crank position sensor, coil packs, wiring, and this did nothing.
In the end I paid an auto electrician to come and try and diagnose the issue, it turned out the ECU was switching off the Ignition part of the engine management system so as soon as the engine had warmed up the ignition circuit turned off power to the coil packs and the crank sensor.
So to sort the problem out I would have needed a new ECU or the original one repaired.
I never got it fixed because at that point I’d lost heart with it and got rid.
Ahh that's interesting. A couple of people have now said it might be an ECU issues, so it's definitely something I'll have to look into if a new wiring loom doesn't fix the problem
@@NotEconomicallyViable You could try this When it cuts out, take out a spark plug and see if there’s a spark when you crank the engine over.
You may need an assistant.
You gave it a go Nino, no one can have a go at you for that matey.
Similar problem on my 2001 E2220CDI, engine dead in the middle of the road. On my Mechanic's advise, changed both Crankshaft and Camshaft positioning sensors at the same time (€30+€40). Now OK. Good luck.
Check for power ,ground and signal at the plug for the crankshaft sensor . It’s worth a try and it’s free.
I had the same trouble with my E 200 T. So I can tell you a trick. Buy yourself some good quality wire in different colours and matching thickness. I took some silicone wires. You can take the whole engine wire harness out of the car in one piece. It takes one or two hours, but it works.
I put it on a table and removed all the wrapping.
So vou have all the wires in front of you.
At some places they were bare for 10 centimetres.
Especially the wires to the injectors.
Then I cut one random wire about one centimetre behind the plug. Soldered a new cable to the centimetre I left on the plug and put some shrink hose over it. And then you can trace that cut wire to the next plug. Cut it also a centimetre before the plug and solder your new cable with the same length as the cut out to this plug.
And so you can do one wire after the other.
When all is new, wrap it in some fabric tape and put it back. It will take you some hours and cost you 50 Pounds but you have a all brand new and better as ever wire harness. It worked for me almost 200k Kilometres and, maybe still today, but I stupid dumbass sold the car.
Appreciate the advice. I don't know how much I'd trust that last centimetre of wire. I'd be tempted to go right up to the connector. What do you reckon?
@@NotEconomicallyViable I only used that centimetre for soldering. The crunchy isolation was removed completely. Then I soldered the new wire to that rest and covered It in shrinking Hose. If I remember right I did that twice. My problem was the price of the parts. So I reused what was still good. If I would had a good and cheap way for new parts I would have done it completely new, but the prices and availability of the parts are.....let's say interesting.
@@wolframbenz1828 I just had a look at prices for some connectors. Oh my word. 😲
@@NotEconomicallyViable 😁 Jep. That was exactly my problem, too. So I kept the ones I had. Such tiny little things can be very expensive. Especially when some people really need those. Like you. 😁
But the car is worth it. My W124 was the best car I ever had. No big problems beside the wiring. Because it was a T Model it had to wire the backdoor too. But all the rest ..straight awesome.
Old Mercedes a labour of love, but worth the effort
Time for an update video? I had a 19998 C240. It was a great car. If I had any mechanical nouse I would have kept it.
The crankspeed sensor measures speed and crank position. The ECU reads information from this sensor as soon as you crank the engine. Its a Hall sensor theres a toothed speed ring attached to the crank or on the crank pulley with so many slots around it and a gap = to 2 teeth when the cps is in line with the gap this = around 60 degrees btdc at this point it looks at coolant temp, crank rpm, throttle body position (load) and looks at the Map on the ecu to determine the ignition advance.
Open and Closed loop is to do with when the ecu takes mixture information from the O2 sensor. This sensor monitors the fuel air ratio or mixture. The ideal mixture is 14.6 :1 (air to fuel) great for the environment but no good for cold starts or when you want to overtake. So the engine will start off in Open loop for cold start ups (choke) Change to closed loop so ecu takes and reacts to the O2 sensor but will jump to Open loop if you give it some welly WOT - hope this helps
You got the Dis or waste spark correct though
The crank position sensor you brought first is the same as the one on my 2002 Mercedes SLK 320 so it is the right one for the V6 3.2L engine but not the 2.2L 4 cylinder
I would put a multimeter on the fuel pump and see if it loses volts when the engine dies. That would tell me the fuel pump relay contacts were opening at that point. Then I would want to know why. Is the fuel pump relay there to stop the fuel flow in case of a crash ? Maybe it thinks the engine has stopped running (even though it is running), and so cuts the fuel stopping it. Remove the fuel pump relay and jumper it at the relay socket and see if the engine runs continuously. Fuel pump relay is probably looking for rotation using a crank/cam sensor or ignition sparks, etc.
Hello Nino! Are you going to continue the wrok on the merc? I'm very curious whether you can fix this thing or not! Don't give up. Like your channel!
Nice try you will get there in the end. My gess is coil packs. Good luck 🤞
love your work, you're an DIY like me. for me I would test the distributor and timing.
1:45 ecu uses signal from crankshaft position sensor whole time my friend :)
Thanks for letting me know 👍🏻 Every little snippet like this helps me learn more
I’ve owned a lot of these Merc’s. Every one of them I bought for pennies because of unknown faults, which I knew were the soy based engine loom.
I spent a week or so rebuilding looms, some with the original connectors.
The splitting of the wire sleaving was from ECU plug, right to ever end section, shorting everything everywhere.
The symptoms were the usually crap idle, stalling, rough starting, etc.
it’s the main reason so many didn’t survive, despite being absolute tanks.
I think the crank sensor is always used, also when the engine is cold. Sometimes electrical components cut out when heating up.
Ahh ok - good to know 👍🏻
Hi,
Have a little experience working on Mercs back in the late 80's into the early 90's, depending on engine type & fuel injection system the cold start regulator played up a fair bit.
On a side note check leads, plugs, fuel filter if not done so already.
Thanks.
Admire your approach, trying to understand the systems that control the car running
Has there been a follow up video on this Merc?
I would still suggest using easy start to try and identify if a fuel or ignition issue. When it is running and starts to stall, by using easy start you may be able to keep it running if a fuel issue. If an ignition issue it would just stall.
That's a great shout - I'll have to give that a go 👍🏻
Dead Miss, quite simply visibile. The best thing to do right now is to watch Pine Hollow Auto Diagnostics, I'm pretty sure he has got a couple of videos regarding W124 and issues similar to yours.
Some components are extremely difficult to find,if you haven’t worked on that model vehicle before ,took me half hour to locate oil filter on RX. 300 Lexus
Still think it might be the fuel pump / main relay board. So common in 90s Mercs where the circuit board used in quite a few big chunky relays heats up then loses continuity due to bad solders. Would explain the cutting out immediately after warm up, just like the open to closed loop scenarios.
Once you have sorted your misfire, please try a different fuel pump / main board relay or research the issue.
Thanks for the info bud. When you say "main board relay" do you mean the OVP relay that these Mercs have, or is it a different type of relay you mean?
@@NotEconomicallyViable No, it was something my father mentioned (from his days owning a W124 190e as he is a Mercedes man through and through - his 2005 E320 is an awesome car) when we were discussing your issue(s) and he probably meant the main fuse board (where the fuel pump relay resides). On a great deal of W124 from this era the relays are round pin circuit board type chunky offerings and the circuit boards go bad inside. For example the KPR relays part number 003 545 20 05 (not checked as specific to your car). There are similar multifunctional relays that cover several parts / circuits which can set off multiple warning lights if bad. If I were chasing down the issue my first points of call would be
a) refresh ignition system
so engine runs smoothly
b) replace engine loom
eliminates any wiring faults
c) see if the cut out still occurs
Engine cut out is a fairly common issue on W124 models 92 to 96 as you know, unfortunately.
Appreciate that 🙌🏻
it sure was down a couple of cylinders when you managed to get i startet but will be looking forward to seeing the progress in the future
Wiring from the ECU to the low tension side of the coil-solder some new wires in to the coils
Reference the Mercedes W124 my friend had.he had a misfire issue and that turned out to be the ECU.
Ended up getting a used ECU from Germany and that fixed it.
He had the biodegradable wiring and had attempted to repair it and failed,the car was a nightmare but he loved it.
A couple of people have mentioned the ECU now, so if the wiring loom doesn't fix the problem then I'll definitely have to take a look into it 👍🏻
Look at the rev counter -is it moving as car runs ? if it is the CPS is ok
Thanks for the advice 👍🏻
I assume this car has gone now. I had the EXACT SAME PROBLEM with my MGB. It was the ignition coil. When it got hot, the resistance would break down inside it and cut out.
At the 12 minute mark looks like it was running on 3 cylinders. Hope you got it sorted
Hi I have the same problem, what did you do to solve it?
I think this might help, one of the youtubers was dealing with same issue of a different car, where he had the engine ECU on top of the engine, and one the engine is on running tepm, the ECU would heat up causing internal component to expand and and small broken solderings\connecctions to come apart and car shutting of. I guess this is similar issue, maybe something is disconnecting after being hot enough, maybe very close to heat source (engine), and it could be the coils.
Thanks for the info, Hussain 👍🏻
What is the update on the c124?
Nino you are doing a great job mate and learning as you go but i think it is time to bite the bullet and change the loom. Just think how much money you would have saved to put towards the Aston. Good luck you will get there in the end.
God save the Queen, may she rest in peace. May you make more videos.
The video where the Dashboard was lit up with no key tells me you got a short on the Engine wire loom .check All the Grounds to body .
There's a TH-cam channel called fix your Mercedes. I'm not sure I think the guy is Albanian but it's brilliant. He's English is not that good but he explains in depth as well as practical guides to all things W124's as well as how to test components. Have a look. And good luck.
Still waiting for another update on this e-class.
Does the car have a diagnostic plug ?
Before ordering sensors, hook a scope and verify the sensor is the culprit
So any follow up??
I know this is old now but i had something similar, i needed a crankshaft position sensor and everytime i bought one it was a camshaft position sensor. I ended up buying a genuine Hyundai part to solve the issue
I would try some fresh fuel, see the lights on maybe some decent petrol and go from there. I always work off suck, squeeze, bang, blow. Check all the elements in that order.
Your kinda right and wrong about open and closed loop. open loop is the short period of time that the ecu doesn’t use the lambda sensor for fueling feedback, in this period the lambda is warning up.
Once the lambda had warmed up, the ecu uses the lambda feedback for fueling.
Right you need to put all the wires on to board ,,but first you will need to remove the old loom good luck mate ..
Brilliant keep it up
Have you check the petrol. Look like the indicator on reserve feul
I did think that at one point, but the gauge comes to life after a little while
Check ecu socket. It could be rust or water damage. Clean it with electric contact cleaner. Check your cam shaft sensor.
Also check is there any vacum leak from airflowsensor to trotalbody
Check feul pressure ragulator.
Have you thought about getting the computer checked? It sounds like to me that everything starts up okay when it’s cold and then when it gets hot the whole lot cut out so there could be something not quite right in the car computer and being a very old car, I would suspect capacitors in the computer. I’m not working like that.
Obvious question but is there adequate fresh fuel in it?
Do them engines have a cold start valve on them (like an automatic choke but for a fuel injection engined car) or does it have leaking/weeping injectors as that would cause it to stall once it ran for a specific length of time.
I'll have to take a look into that. Cheers, Mark 👍🏻
Good luck. That sensor you pulled off the car looks like it’s been on forever.
if it is just that sensor that has failed the great work. Hope it works out
Nice to watch - let us know when found the fault - wouldnt the diagnosis Test find the fault
Ive noticed the rpm is standing still when cranking...
So did you give up on the W124 E220
Nope, I'm making a new wiring loom from scratch, but other commitments have gotten in the way
Definitely check coils,plugs and HT leads and that they are on the right way around. Sounds like an ignition problem for sure also some of these things need to be reset when putting back on?
Wondering if this Merc is dead and gone? or are you still working on it somewhere?
Still got it, bud. Will be a video coming up on it in the next few weeks
Did it ever get sorted?
Did you try swapping 1and 4 around sounds like it’s running on two
Yeah I swapped them around - didn’t make a difference 🥴
Any updates on the merc? 😀⏳
You'll get there nino. First thing I'd do with that is do the loom. Then that's ruled out. It's deffo misfiring so you need to find out for sure where the ht lead so to the plugs. Then the cranksensor. If after all that it's still the same the next port of call is the ecu. There may be somewhere that can check/repair them in the UK? Anyway man, keep at it your doing great and warm regards from Ireland from a clk owner.
Thanks for that, George. I'll have to take a look into the ECU if the new wiring loom doesn't fix the issues 👍🏻
@@NotEconomicallyViable ill be following along for sure mate
Hi mate, did you get to the bottom of this problem in the end?
I did. Video coming in the coming weeks. It's been a big job!
@@NotEconomicallyViable Oh excellent, can’t wait to find out what it was, I bet it was something quite simple?
Great videos really enjoy them just my two cents i do not believe the crank position sensor is going to solve the problem i am along the lines of a vaccumm leak possibly split in a hose somewhere causing too much air.
there are hoses under the air intake manifold that are knowing to split
A vacuum leak normally doesn't lead an engine to run on 3 cylinders. Or cutting out when heating up.
@@mehrzahl2219 true
Hi very nice video! First I want to start by congratulate you for creating this great channel with good car selection, interesting projects, informative and straight to the point videos overall great content! I have been trying to do the same myself for some time now sow I can appreciate the effort that you have put in your channel. I have the same project car Mercedes W124 actually I have bought 3 of them almost at the same time. I am yet to begin the real work on my cars but I have done some work on them just enough to know how difficult can it be to pinpoint the cause of a particular problem they may have. I am rooting for you!
Everyone can see that you`ve learn a ton of stuff in such a short time. I have spent so much time around cars and still don`t think I understand them all that good.
don't give up. if you have too walk away and come back again another day.
Hi mate are you sure that's the crack position sensor you have changed it looks to me that that was the Speedo sensor as it was on the gearbox and I think the misfire will be the leads the wrong way round
When I ordered the part using the part number they were all listed as crankshaft position sensors 🤷🏼♂️ I did reverse the leads, but it made no difference bud
The computer is gone I had a car that did the same thing and I changed the computer and now runs fine.
Will there be a future video on this car?
Yeah at some point. It's got a much bigger issue that I thought and just trying to get it resolved
Cam sensor I reckon! Get a live data scan done
What happened to the Mercedes? You still have it?
I believe the companion cylinders are 1 and 3 not 1 and 4
I am just a poor amateur but i do not understand that you are doing the trial and error methode. You have a fancy scantool, these tools should be able to test al sensors on your engine.
Of course with the sensors still on the engine, never the less. I love the trial and error methode and i love your videos this is not a negative comment. I am sure that WE al together can fix your Benz. Good luck ....
A good place to try for used Mercedes parts is Dronsfields in Royton. Also I watch Number27 who swears by Frau Benz.
Thanks for the info 👍🏻
You will learn a lot from this car
Unless it drives me to insanity 😂
any progress on the car?
Yeah, I've found a terminal issue. Just trying to work out my options and see if it's worth even trying to fix.
@@NotEconomicallyViable i see.
I have the same car,well almost same, mine is sedan, but engine is the same.
And i had similar issues.
Wiring loom is not that big task to do, its a bit tedious, i admit, but if you go wire by wire, you will be able to do it.
Only thing which was annoying were plugs for throttle body and MAF.
You have to cut them with dremel to reach the pins.
Plug for throttle body(from wiring loom) can be coroded,as was mine, so keep that in mind.
Also, if you want better acces to coils, remove the bracket supporting the intake, its just 3 bolts, on this bracket you will find throttle body plug as well.
But i have to say that once this was done, its really a nice car to drive.
Hope you won't give up on it.
Best regards!
Whatever happened to that car?
I'd love to know as well!
In the end there it was misfiring badly/not running on all 4 thats clearly the sound of a 2 and 1/2 cylinder engine which suggests issues with the ignition or injection. (or did you have the wrong firing order on the spark plug wires?)
My first thought in the first episode was that there's something wrong with the *throttle body and/or the Idle Air Control valve* (or however this car is controlling idle air) though I think you never mentioned if it also cuts out when keeping it at 2000-3000rpm manually or just at idle?
That would've been an important piece of evidence for trouble shooting imho.
Since it starts at a higher rpm and then idles down to 1200 and then idles down even more but cuts out at the same time I would've guessed that the idle control doesn't work as intended. Also those values are timed based on engine temperature I assume and if the engine is just slightly warm it doesn't go into high idle at all. (Thats at least how my cars of that era usually behaved) But if course that theory is only valid if it doesn't cut out when keeping it at a higher rpm.
I guess now with it misfiring and it seemingly gotten worse the more you touched it a new wiring loom is definately the way to go before doing any more trouble shooting.
Appreciate all that info 👍🏻 I've never tried keeping the revs above 2,000 rpm, so that's definitely something I'm going to have to try!
Nino put the parts cannon away and put the old lady to sleep because the wiring will put years on your life. 😃🙏 Tom
Check ecu socket.
Disconnect the MaF sensor connector.. you might see Magic... :)
Lewe powietrze łapie ten silnik odma jest dzurawa na wężu przy bloku