@@pacificmike9501 what cam would you run in a 93 FLHS for constant highway travel. I’m not worried about speed other than running 80-85mph. But my plan is to travel and see the magnificent USA.
Any of the "first step" drop in cams would do it. Just read what they say about where the power comes on and govern your choice with what you want it to do.
Mike, watching the hub in the vice, it looked like the hub was rotating at an angle to the bearing. To me, it looked like the hub was making a cone shape at the top. Would explain the difficulty pulling bearing into hub. Watch your video and you'll see what I mean. I hear you about some people having no finance with tools and breaking them. Oh, by the way, I've been waiting to see something on the forgotten Flathead project. You started a nice project and dropped it. I don't want to mention anything about my forgotten projects. Thanks for all your good videos. Many people learn from you. That's something worthwhile.
Okay, I hear you on all counts. Got stuff to catch up on. As soon as possible, I will pour myself into the Flathead build. I really do only one thing at a time. Keeping the rest of the girls going, and fulfilling friends needs is quite time consuming and Sonia still doesn't have her sidecar mounted.
As always, good stuff. Discovered something recently. When using a static balancer, the 1/2" axle usually supplied will typically bend slightly with the weight of a Harley or cruiser wheel. I realized that a rear axle would work, it's long enough. So I picked up a used rear axle and have no problems with it bending while balancing the wheels. I'm able to actually get my wheels in balance for once.
I had to change front bearings on my 2013 ultra classic a year or so ago, it was nice to watch this to make sure that I did it the right way...I did! Thanks Mike
Thanks Mike for another real life lesson in real life motorcycle mechanics. The previous preventive maintenance / preflight advice, also excellent. We always look forward to Hello, welcome to Mikes Garage.
I just use a C-clamp and a couple washers...put both of them at the same time...5 minutes. But I'm just an old hack lol. Have a great day. Thanks for the video.
I agree completly with you about the manuals. When i have bought my shovel , the ex-owner have offer me the Harley Davidson manual, AND the Clymer manual. It is very precious to have this two manuals. Plus, from this time, i have catch on internet some PDF for all the Shovelheads possible. This is something than i do everytime than i bought a vehicle . That help very well, and that help me to learn more english langage.
Hey mike, I appreciate the content. It’s free to us, although it seems like you put a lot of time and effort into your videos. I appreciate your patience and calm approach to your work, you truly are a dying breed when it comes to turning wrenches. As far as tools, when you mentioned “they ain’t cheap,” and also noticing all the beautiful vintage snap-on tools you use on the daily, I wholeheartedly agree with you. I work with diesel, but over the years I started collecting vintage tools. I have a beautiful snap-on torque wrench that I got at a yard sale that was originally sold with a Schwinn bicycle. Along with a plethora of other obscure and beautiful old tools, the old snap on torque wrenches truly works of art to a guy like me. Thank you sir.
I remember my buddy's "Rocker" suffered a wheel bearing failure and when we removed it there was absolutely NO grease inside of the bearings. I guess the Mo-Co got a special deal from China on those and also eliminated the need for having any "hazmat" on the manifest from the cargo container ship that was carrying them all. Way to go HD! I wouldn't want anything new even if was free.
Snow. Mike I've got snow a couple of semi truck loads of snow on my yard. The most i've seen in the 27 years that i've lived here. Lucky you got to go out for a ride. HD = Hundred Dollars. Haha.
Amen on the service manual..guys would come in and ask this and that without knowing some very basic things..yea A year a model..but there's some differences in them..I agree with you as far as the manual..they ain't cheap but they save you so much. Ya know as long as you wrenched on them as I. Sorry for the long reply..pay for the manual that easy
@@pacificmike9501 there's so many things I wanted to type but ..Man just keep the vids coming..making happy to watch cause I know those guys without the right tools and then..we fix what they tried too without the Manual.. Mike thank you
Hello from Sweden and the snow😎. Thank you Mike and Mike for another great video that show the trick to remove and install bearings. Quiet a workout💪. Have a nice weekend!. Kjell Blomstrand "the swede"🇸🇪.
Yes service manuals. I have a Factory Service manual and a Hanes for my 1983 FXWG . My first Factory one got destroyed between Japan and Philippines. Thanks for the good video on wheel Bearings.
Mike and Mike, great job as always. I haven't commented in a while, busy with the Race Engines. The leather mallet reminded me of a funny story, 1 of my must have tools. 2 years ago after a hurricane that left my shop about 6 inches under water, I opened the shop doors to the WORST smell I ever encountered. I thought the worst, a poor little critter drowned. Turned out it was the leather mallet that was under water for a week. Great tip for your subscribers on the lubricant for the pullers. Mine ALWAYS get a coating of a synthetic grease of sorts. People don't realize the amount of stress they endure, and they will last forever treated properly. T.S. RACING
I haven't finished the video yet but before I forget (as I'm prone to do these days) the part that expands I believe is called a "chine". And I'm amazed at how many shop "Mechanics" don't us them properly.
Yup....life intrudes on fine plans .....and things sometimes take a little longer than planned.....but we just keep on....great video to highlight that truth,Mike.....keepin it real!!!......thank you
HOWdy Mike, ... I like the Harley-Davidson ALLOY 13-Spoke ( & 9-spoke alloys) in both the < 1999 Tapered bearing & 2000+ Sealed Bearing WHEELS ... Thanks for the INSTRUCTION ... COOP ...
Use to weld an old nut to the old bearings so I could drive them out with a punch "primitive I know" found one of those pullers on Ebay for 64 bucks best investment I've made ...
Necessity is the mother of invention. You can either wish that bearing was out or dream up a way to do it. I have the coolest drawer of "homemade" tools. Some of them, I made. Some of them, my old friend I worked with made. Some of them, we made together. I don't even remember what some of them do.
You are absolutely right!!!!We have a life and we have to live our life that can possible ends tomorrow.I will follow your videos Mike.You had lost some good friends during the time while I start follow your videos.Do this as long as you want to chare youre knowlegde...
MIke, as always your display of tools and technique is excellent. You are a national treasure for us guys still cranking away on our shovels! I am curious to know what your advice would be to remove the bearing race fora taper bearing out of the neck bearing cup for a 1982 FLH. I have yet to get a service manual in proper form but simply due to busy work schedule and not directly working on the bike at this time. I’ve been advised by some to Weld on the race and it should come out directly but my welding skills are poor, at best, and I figure HD had a tool for it. Thanks sir and as always I enjoy your videos so much.
What most people do is weld it, it cools, it shrinks, it falls out. What I usually do is buy new cups with new bearings and races as a set and knock the old cups out with a large punch and hammer and install the new ones with a large hammer onto a 2 X 4 used as a pad to keep from doing any harm. They usually come with the new races installed into the cups. Thank you for your kind words.
Hi Mike , I have found you can't trust the manufacture's , I have done a lot of these replacements and pretty much every one does not have enough grease in the bearings , I always pop the seals and use a bearing packer to pack them , also if you use some kind of spacer on the long install bolt it's easy-er to clamp the head end of bolt in the vice , then easy-er to watch the bearing you are working on , great video as always , have a great day
is there a good solid bearing set up you would recomend to replace older (62) timkin bearings an spacer shims ? the last guy rhat did my rear end lost the spacers . thanks
The spacers and shims should be available in any good aftermarket shop and the bearings are usually a good basic brand. If yours didn't last very long, sounds like bad installation. Remember to pack them with a good bearing grease after the endplay has been carefully set. Those bearings should last a long time. Be sure and use new seals. Repack those bearings every time you change a tire. The factory recommends every 10,000 miles.
Good video. My bearing kit didn't have instructions, and the shop manual wasn't too helpful. I put in Timkin bearings on my 2008 Dyna Fat Bob. The Timkins pushed in without any problems.
Question. On a 1976 Sportster rear cast 7 spoke wheel, the bearing is in the brake drum and a removable hub on the other side. In that case , it seem easier to me to removable the drum and hub and just press them in and out? I was painting the wheel and had the off anyhow. The front cast wheel is another story.
@Pacific Mike Thank you for keeping it "old School" thoroughly enjoy your videos! I am restoring a 1982 FXWG 80cu shovel with dual plugs my question is what Plugs are used in this application and would like to know what you're using for mounting the dual coils i seen on your shovel Thanks Brother
I don't know if you have modified stock heads or aftermarket heads. Generally, on the left (for your year, RN12YC or equivalent), you'll have long plugs. On the right (again, depending upon what you have), long RN12YC, short RJ12YC. Those are Champion numbers. Simply cross to what you like if you have a brand preference. The coils are mounted on a Dynatech bracket that I bought when I bought that brand of coils. If you can't find it, look up Dynatech and call them.
@@pacificmike9501 Thanks mike btw stock modified sorry my bad appreciate the info though I live in NJ I do every now and then make it to cali so maybe one day ….”i’ll see you out on the road’ stay well.
Those pullers can be used for many bearings - I used mine on the inner primary bearing on my 2010 Dyna..... I hate the sealed wheel bearings though as they tend to not last long on the bike - it may have something to do with the 130+ bhp the motor makes ! I am looking into going back to the old taper roller bearings for that bike.
@@pacificmike9501 Oh, I didn't use the actual bearing puller part on the bearing - I uesd somethingon the outer race of the bearing , a washer or something, and the through bolt along with the 'spider' type thing to pull it out and installed the new one in a similar fashion !
Put both bearings in the freezer then put both bearings and the sleeve on the tool and pull them both in at the same time. They drop in, hope this helps.
Hi Mike, could you clear up the discussions concerning motor oil in the 70s vintage flh Shovelhead. Some say multi viscosity, some say straight 50 to 60 weight depending on temperatures? My 73 has been using 25-60, what are your recommendations? And thank you. MikeTerry
I've never seen 25-60. Originally, Harley said to run 50 wt in Knuckles, Pans and Shovels. Lubricants are certainly better than ever now and I run 20/50 in all of those. I'm very happy with the results. Please don't ask because I don't push brands.
Hi Mike, good video. I have a question for you unrelated to this video. Have you regeared any of your transmissions to be able to run continuously at interstate speeds? The reason I ask is I have a 56 pan with a stock trans in it. When I ride it I avoid the interstate, which usually makes for a better ride. But there are times when I do have to get on the interstate and I can't run 75 or 80 mph for any length of time due to the era trans. I don't know anyone who has a early bike, so your the only one I trust with this question. Thanks Tinker
All Harley 4 and 5 speed transmissions end up in top gear as a 1:1 ratio. The rest is done by varying the number of teeth on your sprockets. Go to our TH-cam homepage and look at our video titled "Gearing for Better Cruising." You can go to TH-cam and type that title in. We have well over 200 videos up and I explain exactly what you're asking on that video. Any difficulties or questions on it, write back. I do this one a lot.
Mike is there a reason why you can't use the press to install the bearings instead of the tool?...I just thought if it could go in the press without damaging it might be easier..Good video, Thanks.
Mike I enjoy your videos I know you have laced a hub on other videos I believe it was a set of three start to finish is it the same tape of hub as before, if not could you show on how to lace this hub by chance ? Thanks
Service manual & parts catalog = best tool $ can buy for any motorcycle....> Threw together a similar tool from "duck's foot" puller & a series of bolts,nuts,washers to index against hub & a few different stepped bronze pilot bushings from auto parts supplier years ago...sort of a cobbled up bearing removal tool....Would have purchased the RIGHT tool but SOME specialty tools seemed to be hard to source back then ... Totally different hub application = the aftermarket steel mags(mfg by Invader IIRC) with removable hubs(didn't have access to a hydraulic press) ...IIRC only rear wheel in type removable hub for steel mag with THIS model application has the ball bearings...front hub = tapered roller (AKA Timken bearings) > Curious to the "late model" reference ...What generation hub is that? Twin Cam models & later I have 0 experience with other than very basic service on a few friend's motorcycles but been reading & watching some vids here on YT for info on later model HDs being "BIKE curious"...:-)
It's a 2000 up roughly. It is a dual disc dresser front hub. I run one on my Shovel that I laced up to a 21" Akront rim. It uses a 1" axle...etc.etc. We have a lot of videos up.
Hi mike. You said you use a newer hub like this on your shovelhead? Well, I have a 21" wheel from my old bike (2007) night train. I want to use the wheel on a rigid shovelhead build with the factory 1977 flh front end. Do you think this can be done?
Sure, but you're on your own. You'll probably use your original 3/4" rear axle. Then, replace your wheel bearings (I assume it has 1" i.d. bearings) for 3/4 " of the same width. You may have to come up with spacers. You may have to make them (turn them on a lathe. Then, you have brake issues. Don't know your plans there. On my 77 FLH , I used 200? everything. The only old parts there were a pair of early fork trees.
@@pacificmike9501 thank you Mike! I plan to use it on the front with an updated caliper, maybe softail. That is if I use a front brake at all. So I can use my stock shovelhead axle with 3/4" sealed bearings? As far as spacers go, I can make that happen. I just wasn't sure about the old axle it different style bearings
I meant front axle, not rear. Sorry 'bout that. 3/4" is 3/4". Fitting a late caliper to an early fork leg is a bit intense. I used late legs. Your rotor has to be one made to fit that wheel (center hole dimension).
Wouldn’t it have started straighter by putting the 1” adapter on first then tapping it slightly rather than chancing on hitting the bearing incorrectly and damaging the bearing?
I gotta say I enjoyed watching you wrestle that hub. Was beginning to think u were more than a man but a little less than a...well I'm relieved to see your a man😄
I found a dyna manual on Amazon through cypher or something I'll send you the link I'm wondering if you think it's a good manual or in should find a better one
You know, I'm running modern hubs with sealed bearings on my Shovelhead. I installed them to see how I liked or didn't like them They've been there a couple of years. Still okay. Jury is still out.
this is a great video on How To Not Install Bearing... ON the vice we the Viewers can really can see how crooked a bearing can be but still can be FORCE IN... Mike you know and i know there is only .001 larger bearing to the bore of the hub... and you know it never will be that tight of a hole to do a press in job... so when you where struggling to crank in that bearing and you even said : WOW i did'nt think it would be this hard to install this bearing the other one was easier,,, thats when you must stop and LOOK at how the bearing is really going along. is it going in straight ??? probably not,,, it never should be this tight... maybe i should Measure the Bearing DIAMETER first and the hub DIAMETER before i ever try to press anything into anything it is called Quality inspection... check the factory parts first before pressing it in... never trust a bearing DIAMETER and then you will know if it is very hard to install it ... it might be going at a ANGLE ...
those bearings suck, even the factory says change em when installing a new tire. I've seen 10,000mi. on sealed bearings dry, WTF. I pull the dust cover off and pack em myself, do it careful and your good, it will snap back on the bearing and seal it up. with good bearing grease they'll last. tks Mike. nothing like the older tapered timkins
Dude, at the beginning of the video (5 mins in) you struggled to get that bearing puller into that bearing because you had the spreader in the middle of it. You insert the puller, it just pushes right in... THEN... insert the spreader into the centre of the puller from the other side.
Those sealed bearings are pure junk. My bagger is real close to having 200,000 miles on it. In that time, I've changed a bunch of them. Some for failures, but most for preventive maintenance. I never let them go more than 20,000 miles. And I've had one that went out with less than 5,000. That one resulted in a tow off the mountains in Idaho. Made in China junk. Give me the old timken tapered bearings anyday. Never had a failure with those in 45 years of riding. Good video ,Mike.
You are one of the very few people I have ever seen that can use anti seize and not make a mess.
I used to wear a lot of it. It's just practice (followed by mass quantities of dish soap).
You're a fountain of knowledge Mike. I'm always waiting for your next video. Thanks for keeping it real and inspiring me to wrench on my bike.
Awesome! Thank you!
@@pacificmike9501 what cam would you run in a 93 FLHS for constant highway travel. I’m not worried about speed other than running 80-85mph. But my plan is to travel and see the magnificent USA.
Any of the "first step" drop in cams would do it. Just read what they say about where the power comes on and govern your choice with what you want it to do.
@@pacificmike9501 thank you sir, c u down the road
Having the manuals and correct tools make preforming work on our bikes a pure pleasure.
Couldn't agree more!
Mike, watching the hub in the vice, it looked like the hub was rotating at an angle to the bearing. To me, it looked like the hub was making a cone shape at the top. Would explain the difficulty pulling bearing into hub. Watch your video and you'll see what I mean. I hear you about some people having no finance with tools and breaking them. Oh, by the way, I've been waiting to see something on the forgotten Flathead project. You started a nice project and dropped it. I don't want to mention anything about my forgotten projects. Thanks for all your good videos. Many people learn from you. That's something worthwhile.
Okay, I hear you on all counts. Got stuff to catch up on. As soon as possible, I will pour myself into the Flathead build. I really do only one thing at a time. Keeping the rest of the girls going, and fulfilling friends needs is quite time consuming and Sonia still doesn't have her sidecar mounted.
you are correct ...
As always, good stuff. Discovered something recently. When using a static balancer, the 1/2" axle usually supplied will typically bend slightly with the weight of a Harley or cruiser wheel. I realized that a rear axle would work, it's long enough. So I picked up a used rear axle and have no problems with it bending while balancing the wheels. I'm able to actually get my wheels in balance for once.
Thanks for the info!
I had to change front bearings on my 2013 ultra classic a year or so ago, it was nice to watch this to make sure that I did it the right way...I did! Thanks Mike
Glad it helped
You did a good job with newer automotive, man. I'm proud of you!
Thank You. I try.
Thanks Mike for another real life lesson in real life motorcycle mechanics. The previous preventive maintenance / preflight advice, also excellent. We always look forward to Hello, welcome to Mikes Garage.
Thank You.
I just use a C-clamp and a couple washers...put both of them at the same time...5 minutes. But I'm just an old hack lol. Have a great day. Thanks for the video.
I'm all for it.
service manuals will pay for themselves in a short time. Thanks for the content.
You bet! Thank You.
Hello Mike and Mike great to see you again I love all your shows this is a great life working on bikes it’s awesome deferent on each bike
It's life. It's whatever comes up. Take care.
@@pacificmike9501 you to 👍
👍🙂
@@cameramanmike2072 👍👍
Thank You.
Perfect timing. We're all wrenching on bikes late tonite as well. 12 05 time to call it a day. Best Wishes Mike. RMM
Thanks, you too!
Always love stopping by the garage especially on a Saturday have a blessed week my friends.
Thanks! You too!
Cool thanks bro. I'm doing my rear bearings. Good tips. Keep up your good work. Love your program.
Thank You.
I agree completly with you about the manuals.
When i have bought my shovel , the ex-owner have offer me the Harley Davidson manual, AND the Clymer manual. It is very precious to have this two manuals.
Plus, from this time, i have catch on internet some PDF for all the Shovelheads possible.
This is something than i do everytime than i bought a vehicle .
That help very well, and that help me to learn more english langage.
That's great! Thank You. A parts manual will help you too. The changes are there and the diagrams are terrific.
@@pacificmike9501 Yes, i have this on the pdf. I have catch all the panhead, and shovelhead.
Hey mike, I appreciate the content. It’s free to us, although it seems like you put a lot of time and effort into your videos. I appreciate your patience and calm approach to your work, you truly are a dying breed when it comes to turning wrenches.
As far as tools, when you mentioned “they ain’t cheap,” and also noticing all the beautiful vintage snap-on tools you use on the daily, I wholeheartedly agree with you. I work with diesel, but over the years I started collecting vintage tools. I have a beautiful snap-on torque wrench that I got at a yard sale that was originally sold with a Schwinn bicycle. Along with a plethora of other obscure and beautiful old tools, the old snap on torque wrenches truly works of art to a guy like me. Thank you sir.
Thank You.
I remember my buddy's "Rocker" suffered a wheel bearing failure and when we removed it there was absolutely NO grease inside of the bearings. I guess the Mo-Co got a special deal from China on those and also eliminated the need for having any "hazmat" on the manifest from the cargo container ship that was carrying them all. Way to go HD! I wouldn't want anything new even if was free.
I understand. We see it in a lot of different industries.
@@pacificmike9501 and the bean counters are perfectly fine with that
I agree with you, Harley parts and service manuals are a must!!! I have one for my 2000 chevy 4x4 also. Just the torque specs are worth it... ✌
Totally agree!
Snow. Mike I've got snow a couple of semi truck loads of snow on my yard. The most i've seen in the 27 years that i've lived here.
Lucky you got to go out for a ride.
HD = Hundred Dollars. Haha.
Well, I hope you enjoy it anyway.
Yes good call on the manual.
Nice job in the bearings also. 👍
Thank You.
No kidding bro. I love building and riding. Courantly rebuilding my evo. Digging your channel
That's great. Thank You.
As I mentioned previously Mike , patience is a virtue , nice job bud !
Thanks 👍
Hello Mike, Great Bearing tool kit. nice work
Thank You.
Thanks for sharing Mike, great vid 😃👍
Thank You.
As usual... a GREAT VID.....THANK YOU SIR!
Thank You.
Just chase those threads on bearing puller. Be good as new. I'm sure you know that though😉
It's hard tool steel. Probably just kiss it with a thread file.
Amen on the service manual..guys would come in and ask this and that without knowing some very basic things..yea A year a model..but there's some differences in them..I agree with you as far as the manual..they ain't cheap but they save you so much. Ya know as long as you wrenched on them as I. Sorry for the long reply..pay for the manual that easy
And, in that manual, we're on the same page.
@@pacificmike9501 there's so many things I wanted to type but ..Man just keep the vids coming..making happy to watch cause I know those guys without the right tools and then..we fix what they tried too without the Manual.. Mike thank you
Thank You.
Hello from Sweden and the snow😎. Thank you Mike and Mike for another great video that show the trick to remove and install bearings. Quiet a workout💪. Have a nice weekend!. Kjell Blomstrand "the swede"🇸🇪.
👍🙂
Thank You. Enjoy your weekend. Stay warm.
Yes service manuals. I have a Factory Service manual and a Hanes for my 1983 FXWG . My first Factory one got destroyed between Japan and Philippines. Thanks for the good video on wheel Bearings.
Thank You.
Another good one, Mike--thanks again.
Thank You.
That's what it's like here. About 6000 feet of snow. Btw I'm doing wheel bearings today so very timely and helpful video. Thanks Mike
Glad to help. Our elevation was about 6000 feet, not the depth of the snow.
Great video , I like the step by step instruction . Really sinks in ..
Great to hear! Thank You.
Hey Mike thanks much see you out on the road
Thank You. I'll look forward to that.
That was a Almond Joy to watch !
Wow, thank you. I feel like it.
Mike and Mike, great job as always. I haven't commented in a while, busy with the Race Engines. The leather mallet reminded me of a funny story, 1 of my must have tools. 2 years ago after a hurricane that left my shop about 6 inches under water, I opened the shop doors to the WORST smell I ever encountered. I thought the worst, a poor little critter drowned. Turned out it was the leather mallet that was under water for a week. Great tip for your subscribers on the lubricant for the pullers. Mine ALWAYS get a coating of a synthetic grease of sorts. People don't realize the amount of stress they endure, and they will last forever treated properly.
T.S. RACING
Thank You. Good story and good ideas.
👍🙂
I haven't finished the video yet but before I forget (as I'm prone to do these days) the part that expands I believe is called a "chine". And I'm amazed at how many shop "Mechanics" don't us them properly.
I appreciate that. I believe I spoke from the directions. I'll look that up. I try to lube it to protect it.
Yup....life intrudes on fine plans .....and things sometimes take a little longer than planned.....but we just keep on....great video to highlight that truth,Mike.....keepin it real!!!......thank you
Thank You. I appreciate that.
This long video was a great! Have a good one and I’ll see you out on the road!
Thank You. I'll look forward to that.
Mike & Mike always good info.
Thank You. Glad you like it.
👍🙂
You know that you’re enjoying your life when you don’t know, of care, what day it is.😉
Yep. The only time I need to know is if I want to spend time with my "young friends." You know, the ones that still work for a living.
Hi Mike l forward to your videos you make them all interesting. Thanks Kenny
Glad you like them! Thank You.
Thank you for sharing. Enjoyed.👍👀
Glad you enjoyed it.
This is a reality I can enjoy!
Cool. Thank You.
Gotta' love an old brass mallet to massage things into order. Great vid Mike. Cheers n Beers! cb
Thank You. And Cheers!
It's a good feeling when you know the bearing starts to move.
Yep.
Grate vido as usual Mr pachince hi from saskachawan canada
Thank You.
HOWdy Mike,
...
I like the Harley-Davidson ALLOY 13-Spoke ( & 9-spoke alloys) in both the < 1999 Tapered bearing & 2000+ Sealed Bearing WHEELS
...
Thanks for the INSTRUCTION
...
COOP
...
Sounds okay to me. Thank You.
Good evening Mike . How are you ? Thank you for this video.
All's well and I hope so with you. And, you're quite welcome.
@@pacificmike9501 all good here, thank you
Perfect!
I bet that tool would like some of that never seize on the threads. Looks like fun
Does well with grease. Scrubbing "antiseize" off of my hands is a pain.
Use to weld an old nut to the old bearings so I could drive them out with a punch "primitive I know" found one of those pullers on Ebay for 64 bucks best investment I've made ...
Necessity is the mother of invention. You can either wish that bearing was out or dream up a way to do it. I have the coolest drawer of "homemade" tools. Some of them, I made. Some of them, my old friend I worked with made. Some of them, we made together. I don't even remember what some of them do.
You are absolutely right!!!!We have a life and we have to live our life that can possible ends tomorrow.I will follow your videos Mike.You had lost some good friends during the time while I start follow your videos.Do this as long as you want to chare youre knowlegde...
Thank You. Glad you're with us too.
👍🙂
MIke, as always your display of tools and technique is excellent. You are a national treasure for us guys still cranking away on our shovels! I am curious to know what your advice would be to remove the bearing race fora taper bearing out of the neck bearing cup for a 1982 FLH. I have yet to get a service manual in proper form but simply due to busy work schedule and not directly working on the bike at this time. I’ve been advised by some to Weld on the race and it should come out directly but my welding skills are poor, at best, and I figure HD had a tool for it. Thanks sir and as always I enjoy your videos so much.
What most people do is weld it, it cools, it shrinks, it falls out. What I usually do is buy new cups with new bearings and races as a set and knock the old cups out with a large punch and hammer and install the new ones with a large hammer onto a 2 X 4 used as a pad to keep from doing any harm. They usually come with the new races installed into the cups. Thank you for your kind words.
@@pacificmike9501 I was on the fence with buying new cups but seems like the prudent thing to do. Thanks sir
They always go in easier if you put the bearings in the freezer overnight and heat the hub a bit. Like butter
That's cool. Makes me feel warm.
I always put the bearings in the fridge for at least ba couple of hours before installing, does make the install easier.
Hi Mike , I have found you can't trust the manufacture's , I have done a lot of these replacements and pretty much every one does not have enough grease in the bearings , I always pop the seals and use a bearing packer to pack them , also if you use some kind of spacer on the long install bolt it's easy-er to clamp the head end of bolt in the vice , then easy-er to watch the bearing you are working on , great video as always , have a great day
Thanks for the info. Good stuff and I do appreciate it.
Don’t change your how make your videos Mike you make it real👍…. It would be cool to video one of your ride outs on the road👍
Thank You. We've been threatening to do that. Takes a lot to do.
👍🙂🤞
is there a good solid bearing set up you would recomend to replace older (62) timkin bearings an spacer shims ? the last guy rhat did my rear end lost the spacers . thanks
The spacers and shims should be available in any good aftermarket shop and the bearings are usually a good basic brand. If yours didn't last very long, sounds like bad installation. Remember to pack them with a good bearing grease after the endplay has been carefully set. Those bearings should last a long time. Be sure and use new seals. Repack those bearings every time you change a tire. The factory recommends every 10,000 miles.
Good video. My bearing kit didn't have instructions, and the shop manual wasn't too helpful. I put in Timkin bearings on my 2008 Dyna Fat Bob. The Timkins pushed in without any problems.
Cool.
I hope you installed the appropriate inner spacer.
@@pacificmike9501 Indeed. Your video is one of the few that mentions them
Cool.
Question. On a 1976 Sportster rear cast 7 spoke wheel, the bearing is in the brake drum and a removable hub on the other side. In that case , it seem easier to me to removable the drum and hub and just press them in and out? I was painting the wheel and had the off anyhow. The front cast wheel is another story.
Sorry, I haven't worked on one of those in a long time.
Me either.
@Pacific Mike Thank you for keeping it "old School" thoroughly enjoy your videos! I am restoring a 1982 FXWG 80cu shovel with dual plugs my question is what Plugs are used in this application and would like to know what you're using for mounting the dual coils i seen on your shovel Thanks Brother
I don't know if you have modified stock heads or aftermarket heads. Generally, on the left (for your year, RN12YC or equivalent), you'll have long plugs. On the right (again, depending upon what you have), long RN12YC, short RJ12YC. Those are Champion numbers. Simply cross to what you like if you have a brand preference. The coils are mounted on a Dynatech bracket that I bought when I bought that brand of coils. If you can't find it, look up Dynatech and call them.
@@pacificmike9501 Thanks mike btw stock modified sorry my bad appreciate the info though I live in NJ I do every now and then make it to cali so maybe one day ….”i’ll see you out on the road’ stay well.
You too. No tellin' where bikers run into each other.
Those pullers can be used for many bearings - I used mine on the inner primary bearing on my 2010 Dyna..... I hate the sealed wheel bearings though as they tend to not last long on the bike - it may have something to do with the 130+ bhp the motor makes ! I am looking into going back to the old taper roller bearings for that bike.
Thank You. That's interesting information.
@@pacificmike9501 Oh, I didn't use the actual bearing puller part on the bearing - I uesd somethingon the outer race of the bearing , a washer or something, and the through bolt along with the 'spider' type thing to pull it out and installed the new one in a similar fashion !
Put both bearings in the freezer then put both bearings and the sleeve on the tool and pull them both in at the same time. They drop in, hope this helps.
Not quite the way it works, but thank you.
wow krenn mntappp🥰
Thank You.
Hi Mike, could you clear up the discussions concerning motor oil in the 70s vintage flh Shovelhead. Some say multi viscosity, some say straight 50 to 60 weight depending on temperatures? My 73 has been using 25-60, what are your recommendations? And thank you. MikeTerry
I've never seen 25-60. Originally, Harley said to run 50 wt in Knuckles, Pans and Shovels. Lubricants are certainly better than ever now and I run 20/50 in all of those. I'm very happy with the results. Please don't ask because I don't push brands.
Yes 20/60 my mistake, changed it today, and thank you.
Hi Mike, good video. I have a question for you unrelated to this video. Have you regeared any of your transmissions to be able to run continuously at interstate speeds? The reason I ask is I have a 56 pan with a stock trans in it. When I ride it I avoid the interstate, which usually makes for a better ride. But there are times when I do have to get on the interstate and I can't run 75 or 80 mph for any length of time due to the era trans. I don't know anyone who has a early bike, so your the only one I trust with this question. Thanks Tinker
All Harley 4 and 5 speed transmissions end up in top gear as a 1:1 ratio. The rest is done by varying the number of teeth on your sprockets. Go to our TH-cam homepage and look at our video titled "Gearing for Better Cruising." You can go to TH-cam and type that title in. We have well over 200 videos up and I explain exactly what you're asking on that video. Any difficulties or questions on it, write back. I do this one a lot.
@@pacificmike9501 thanks Mike I'll do that, thanks for the quick answer.
Mike is there a reason why you can't use the press to install the bearings instead of the tool?...I just thought if it could go in the press without damaging it might be easier..Good video, Thanks.
You could.
🤘😎🤘
Thank You.
@@pacificmike9501
✌
Mike I enjoy your videos I know you have laced a hub on other videos I believe it was a set of three start to finish is it the same tape of hub as before, if not could you show on how to lace this hub by chance ? Thanks
It's the same as earlier. Cross over 4 spokes.
@@pacificmike9501@ right on, Thanks have a great one ☝️
Service manual & parts catalog = best tool $ can buy for any motorcycle....> Threw together a similar tool from "duck's foot" puller & a series of bolts,nuts,washers to index against hub & a few different stepped bronze pilot bushings from auto parts supplier years ago...sort of a cobbled up bearing removal tool....Would have purchased the RIGHT tool but SOME specialty tools seemed to be hard to source back then ... Totally different hub application = the aftermarket steel mags(mfg by Invader IIRC) with removable hubs(didn't have access to a hydraulic press) ...IIRC only rear wheel in type removable hub for steel mag with THIS model application has the ball bearings...front hub = tapered roller (AKA Timken bearings) > Curious to the "late model" reference ...What generation hub is that? Twin Cam models & later I have 0 experience with other than very basic service on a few friend's motorcycles but been reading & watching some vids here on YT for info on later model HDs being "BIKE curious"...:-)
It's a 2000 up roughly. It is a dual disc dresser front hub. I run one on my Shovel that I laced up to a 21" Akront rim. It uses a 1" axle...etc.etc. We have a lot of videos up.
Hi mike. You said you use a newer hub like this on your shovelhead? Well, I have a 21" wheel from my old bike (2007) night train. I want to use the wheel on a rigid shovelhead build with the factory 1977 flh front end. Do you think this can be done?
Sure, but you're on your own. You'll probably use your original 3/4" rear axle. Then, replace your wheel bearings (I assume it has 1" i.d. bearings) for 3/4 " of the same width. You may have to come up with spacers. You may have to make them (turn them on a lathe. Then, you have brake issues. Don't know your plans there. On my 77 FLH , I used 200? everything. The only old parts there were a pair of early fork trees.
@@pacificmike9501 thank you Mike! I plan to use it on the front with an updated caliper, maybe softail. That is if I use a front brake at all. So I can use my stock shovelhead axle with 3/4" sealed bearings? As far as spacers go, I can make that happen. I just wasn't sure about the old axle it different style bearings
I meant front axle, not rear. Sorry 'bout that. 3/4" is 3/4". Fitting a late caliper to an early fork leg is a bit intense. I used late legs. Your rotor has to be one made to fit that wheel (center hole dimension).
@@pacificmike9501 thanks again Mike! I appreciate you sharing your knowledge of motorcycles.
Wouldn’t it have started straighter by putting the 1” adapter on first then tapping it slightly rather than chancing on hitting the bearing incorrectly and damaging the bearing?
Okay.
Mike, just outta curiosity why wouldn't ya put the bearing in the fridge first??? Something I always do , seems to work.
By the time you would start pressing it into it's hole, the temperatures would "neutralize" each other.
I gotta say I enjoyed watching you wrestle that hub. Was beginning to think u were more than a man but a little less than a...well I'm relieved to see your a man😄
I appreciate that
I found a dyna manual on Amazon through cypher or something I'll send you the link I'm wondering if you think it's a good manual or in should find a better one
I'll check it out, if I can.
Thanks for the video. Sooo do you prefer Timken bearings vs the sealed bearings?🤣
You know, I'm running modern hubs with sealed bearings on my Shovelhead. I installed them to see how I liked or didn't like them They've been there a couple of years. Still okay. Jury is still out.
Thanks Mike!
👍🖖
Thank You.
this is a great video on How To Not Install Bearing... ON the vice we the Viewers can really can see how crooked a bearing can be but still can be FORCE IN... Mike you know and i know there is only .001 larger bearing to the bore of the hub... and you know it never will be that tight of a hole to do a press in job... so when you where struggling to crank in that bearing and you even said : WOW i did'nt think it would be this hard to install this bearing the other one was easier,,, thats when you must stop and LOOK at how the bearing is really going along. is it going in straight ??? probably not,,, it never should be this tight... maybe i should Measure the Bearing DIAMETER first and the hub DIAMETER before i ever try to press anything into anything it is called Quality inspection... check the factory parts first before pressing it in... never trust a bearing DIAMETER and then you will know if it is very hard to install it ... it might be going at a ANGLE ...
Thank You.
Even little jobs need a service manual. It's very tough improvising on a HD.
True.
Could you have pressed it in ?
That's what you're doing with the tool I used. But, yes you could accomplish it on a press.
what's happening with the project bike
She had to get back in line behind the "necessities."
@@pacificmike9501 I understand that
I find that tool never wants to pull bearings in straight. I use it as a puller but I install with a hammer. Couldn't agree more about owning a manual
Thank You. Always open to advice.
2nd
Yay!
👍🙂
those bearings suck, even the factory says change em when installing a new tire. I've seen 10,000mi. on sealed bearings dry, WTF. I pull the dust cover off and pack em myself, do it careful and your good, it will snap back on the bearing and seal it up. with good bearing grease they'll last. tks Mike. nothing like the older tapered timkins
Thank You.
are you on FB?
No, sorry, I am not.
Take care of your tools and they will take care of you.
Certainly been true throughout my life.
Dude, at the beginning of the video (5 mins in) you struggled to get that bearing puller into that bearing because you had the spreader in the middle of it. You insert the puller, it just pushes right in... THEN... insert the spreader into the centre of the puller from the other side.
Thank You.
We don’t need a service manual We have Pacific Mikes You tube channel
Cute. Help me out. Look at that manual.
What’s going on wit ur flathead chopper mike
Only do one thing at a time. We'll get back to it soon. Still have stuff to do on the Shovel (Sonia is whining for her sidecar).
Checking preload/clearance of spacer would have been more helpful
Yep.
Those sealed bearings are pure junk. My bagger is real close to having 200,000 miles on it. In that time, I've changed a bunch of them. Some for failures, but most for preventive maintenance. I never let them go more than 20,000 miles. And I've had one that went out with less than 5,000. That one resulted in a tow off the mountains in Idaho. Made in China junk. Give me the old timken tapered bearings anyday. Never had a failure with those in 45 years of riding. Good video ,Mike.
Thank You. I set this up to educate people. I feel like this one is having people educate me.
Nothing like some black ice to straighten attitudes. “ Life”. Lol
Yes.
come on, a service manual isnt that expensive a night drinking beer in town will cost you more, everyone needs a bible like that
Amen.
I wish videographers would get to the point faster.
Okay.
Put the bearings in the freezer 1st.
Okay.