Hi Kyle. I have a couple of Mitre saws (Festool and the Makita in the review). I recently purchased the Metabo as well (I wanted a full battery unit for site work). I had the same issues regarding accuracy. I spoke to the rep who advised that you are supposed to lock the front lever in the down position as well as the bevel lever on the side which tightens up the torsion rods underneath. Hey Preso problem solved…….the saw now cuts very well to the point that I am using it for finish work with great success…..seems counter intuitive, but I can vouch for this and am very happy with the unit….even when compared to my Kapex. Cheers. Greg.
The Metabo/Hikoki has 3 bolts in the back that attach to a floating plate not visible. You loosen them slightly and align the bevel to 90° using a digital angle finding tool(Klein makes a good one). There's a release pin that unlocks the right hand bevel. You align the plate(the 3 bolt plate) with that release pin to stop at 90°, then tighten the 3 bolts down. Now, when the pin is in place, you can adjust bevel left, and stop at your perfect 90°. To adjust bevel right, you push the release pin. To return to 90, you adjust bevel to the left slightly past 90, pull the release pin back, and move it back to the right where it will again stop at 90. Then there are standard bolts at the bottom of each side to set your 45s and whatnot. You can also use the release pin to stop at 22.5, and possibly 33.9, as that hidden 3 bolt plate has detents in it. If this sounds complicated, it's really not. I'm just not good at explaining things. I've also found on the one I had that the slop you feel is the cheap plastic handle moving around, and not the actual unit on the rails. I was able to tighten the screws, making it pretty solid. It feels as good as any other non-vertical grip miter I've use. Another problem with this saw was the miter detent locking bar. It's made of plastic which allows very quick movements swinging left and right, but has a little give in the hinge. Some people have fabricated a replacement, but I've found that just be leaving no pressure on the knob, then locking it down, it always centers on the detent.
With Ryan's th-cam.com/users/postUgkxy_pn55PK60wAV3X_C_RoLS_67mNonoCE plan, I was like one taken by the hand and led step by step from start to finish. Thank you very much Ryan!
I've used other (10" saws) previously and was pretty surprised with the speed and cutting ability of this Dewalt saw.I have bolted mine to a table to minimize movement which I highly recommend.This is a Great saw th-cam.com/users/postUgkxPeGkHOMe05FySypTOvYumxMn-xi39oRe with a light to see your cutting line (not a laser line).I'd recommend this saw fro anyone looking to upgrade from a 10" miter saw.
Good review, I appreciate your viewpoint. A good saw with the right blade makes a good combination. My dad was old school, hand tools were his go to tools. In the forty’s my dad had to take a complex journeyman course. Most guys would struggle completing some of what he went through. When I was very young I was talking machinist smack. My dad told me that I wouldn’t make a pimple on a machinist backside. if I didn’t keep my mouth shut and ears and eyes open and listen to my senior coworkers. There is a lot of truth in that. Tough pill to swallow, but wise words.
My main saw is still the Dewalt 780 for most trim and framing. However, I keep that Milwaukee 7 inch in the truck as well on an old miter saw stand because not only is it better for some trim applications, but for a super small job or a repair it's almost always perfect. Last week I did a deck for my cousin and we had the Dewalt cutting all the four by, 2x8, 2x10 and 2x6 lumber, but the Milwaukee cut all the decking. My 13 year old cousin cut all the decking herself and no way would I have let her use that Dewalt. So on top of it being practical, convenient and light, it's also safer.
Anywhere hearing anything about the new makita? Same saw basically but its a 12 inch. Looking at getting one but everyone's reviewing the 10s and i cant find any reviews on the 12 inch saw
Back when I had my bussiness before lithium batteries, when there was only nicad , I bought a 10" Makita and later on a 10" Bosch. Neither were sliders as far as I knew they were the only ones available back then. The Makita was useless the rpm were so low it didn't cut it hacked the wood , gave it away the day I got it the Bosch was much better but 50 cuts or less and the battery was dead but the installers still loved it. I just don't keep up with the new tools anymore so really liked seeing your collection. Lithium batteries have changed cordless tools tremendously. Where I live its hard to find a battery drill so any other tool is impossible to find here. Thank God for Amazon.
I don't know if you read your comments, but I have the Makita LS1219L (corded 12") and it has the same dust collection port on it. Get yourself the Rockler Universal Small Port Hose Kit. It's 30 bucks and it's super high quality and will fit a ton of different tools from routers to miter saws etc. The key is cutting off the little triangular gusset that attaches to the open top part of that dust port on the Makita, so you can slip the larger of the two fittings included with the Universal Small Port kit over it snugly. The other end of that Rockler kit will connect directly to a shop vac or a shop vac hose, and you're good to go. Enjoy!
RR Buildings Hey, happy to help. And I really appreciate all that you do. I’m about to start building my own house (my first house ever) with a family member who’s an experienced builder/contractor, and while I’m not post framing, your build videos have been a huge inspiration. Cheers!
I got rid of my 12" and my 10" miter saws and grabbed a 7" slider. Anything that wont fit on that, I just use a circular saw. So much better for mobile transport
The most important thing about choosing a tool is whether or not it's fit for YOUR purpose. In the case of the Makita, the answer is IT IS. The 120V AC version that is. As you say its heavy, so don't move it. If you don't move it does it fit in easily into your shop ?. In most cases it will, because you can put it up against a wall and still use it. Do I take dust collection seriously ? YES. For decades I was careless about breathing fine wood dust, and that ended in having two cardiac arrests, the first in the year I turned 80, and which required triple by-pass surgery three years later. The Makita allows a dedicated shop vac to be connected to it with no fuss. Finally it gives me a way of making precise cuts with a minimum of effort. Oh and BTW if you have the battery-powered version, be careful you don't overload the cut if you install a saw with more cutting heads.
I have the makita. Awesome saw but it's a damn beast to move. Imo the only way to transport it is permanently mounted on the makita stand. I replaced the stand's wheels with 10" pneumatic wheels spaced 18" apart. Now its steady and easy to transport without knocking anything out of alignment.
DeWalt 12" compound slider corded. I have 3 and they can't be beat considering price/performance. The oldest one (8_9 years old) has only needed brushes once and no other repair. Many miles on it and left outside on Jobs overnight plenty of times
Tips. Very important if you would like to saw with precision. (avoid torsion as much as possible)! Always choose a Miter saw with a handle positioned in a vertical line above the saw blade. Everything must be aligned, slide rails, handle, and saw blade,it is much better this way the blade will not tilt. Because there is some torsion in the aluminum housing . And choose an engine with softstart on it to prevent wear of the gear and worm shaft. It is very important that everything is aligned. Here are some examples to show how the handle must be positioned above the blade. Bosch gcm 800 sj / Bosch gcm 8 sjl / Evolution rage 3 / FESTOOL KS 60 / HITACHI C12RSH2 / FESTOOL KS 60 E KAPEX / Metabo KGSV 72 Xact (This also is the case with the Miter saw without the slide rails). If you want you can test it yourself at home if there is torsion in the aluminum housing. Step-1. First you make a saw cut from +-5 mm deep in to a flat piece of wood about +- 20 mm thick. To this with the normal handle positioned on the right side of the Miter saw. Step-2. Then repeat this by pushing the saw blade down with your hand (finger) on the aluminum protective cover were the saw blade is cased in. Just now only do this without the running engine. Step-3. Now you can see if the saw blade will be positioned in or next to the saw cut. If the saw blade is (+- 0,2 / 0,5 mm) next to the saw cut then there is torsion in the aluminum housing. Step-4. therefor it is much better to choose a Miter saw with the handle positioned vertical in line above the saw blade. Conclusion: how further away the handle is from the saw blade how more chance of torsion in the aluminum housing.(don't go for that)..
Love Makita cordless tools and like the 2 battery platform don’t like being out of batteries and the last one charged for my impact driver is a 12 ah car battery ! Just like the versatility of the smaller batteries 2 smaller batteries cost 160.00 for twin pack one large battery is around 250.00
Just purchased one of those makita saws. Correct me if I’m wrong, but your complaint about the dust collection hose... in other videos, it shows the vacuum attaching at the bottom section. It looks as if you may have it upside down 👍
Have you got your hands on the Metabo HTP 36v 185mm (7¼) brushless slide compound mitre saw? Just came out in Australia and am tossing up between that and the 10 inch. Massive price jump up for the 7 ¼ and just want to see your thoughts on in.
@@RRBuildings just had a look on the Metabo Htp website and looks like it still isn't out in the states thatd have to be a first that Australia gets a tool before you guys. Will just sit a wait paitently for your review. 10 inch is $1459 Au with 2 x 8 amp multi vault batteries. The 7¼ is $2499 Au bare tool so it's quiet an investment.
I can only justify one miter saw, so I have the DeWalt Flexvolt, which usually stays corded in the shop, but when I need to take it out, it's as powerful in the field as it is in the shop. I have a Chopmaster blade for it for finish work, but swap that out when I'm going to do a lot of framing. It's heavy for sure, but it's more important I have a powerful 12 inch saw in the shop.
Miter Saw is an old idea because has just about 1 ft cut and cannot be used on boards. It shall be retired. I invented a "Parallel Guided Power Saw" which can be seen on you tube under this name. My saw can cut up to 18 ft or more. Look at my saw and let me know what you think. My saw may replaced miter saw, table saw, and router table. It can carry also grinders, drills press, hand saw and more.
I totally agree. I can see many benefits to having the 7-1/4. I’d probably use it more than any other in fact, but since I have the Makita 10in and a Dewalt 12in, I just can’t justify buying yet another. The Makita travels fairly well anyway.
I like that Mikita. 1 down side that gives ppl some issues is the way the bevel adjustment works. You don’t hit a switch that allowed the bevel to move. The knob actually loosens the entire saw from the base. So if that bevel adj knob isn’t super tight, the entire top of the saw isn’t tight, and your angles and deflection are super bad.
I got the Makita recently and had to do a heap of adjusting on it. It feels really nice to use but needed a lot of work to be usable unfortunately which took the shine off it.
Had the same issue with the 12" I got 6 months ago. Bevel lock was dragging when it was rotated and the fence was a little out of square. Besides it being really heavy it makes the accurate cuts I need.
The Milwaukee is not that accurate for trim and fine carpentry, I tried to adjust it for hours to get perfect cuts and it was pointless so I ended up returning it! Until this day I'm still using my Bosch CM8S with a laser blade installed. Haven't found an accurate small miter saw that could replace it yet.
Which saws have a depth cut garage. I need a saw that can cut a 2 inch deep trench or mortise into a 4x4 inch wooden beam. Will this do the job.? Thanks.
I'm not sure if you know this or not but the fence is a floating fence to pick up extra degrees on your 7 1/4 Milwaukee that's what the notches on your left hand side when you're facing the saw is for on the bottom of the deck No it's not necessarily easy to adjust it but if you adjusted for up to X then modify
Miter Saw is an old idea because has just about 1 ft cut and cannot be used on boards. It shall be retired. I invented a "Parallel Guided Power Saw" which can be seen on you tube under this name. My saw can cut up to 18 ft or more. Look at my saw and let me know what you think. My saw may replaced miter saw, table saw, and router table. It can carry also grinders, drills press, hand saw and more.
How important do you think "out of the box" alignment really is? I feel like if you need finish carpentry level precision, you're routinely checking and adjusting alignment anyway.
My opinion (from a hobbyist who uses the saw mostly for framing) is the saw should come out of the box with all the detents aligned and accurate (90 22.5 and 45). The top bevel not so much but the scale should be accurate. With all the QC and automated assembly a jig to make sure the alignment is within a tenth of a degree or so should be no problem. I realize it will have to be checked periodically to make sure it is correct but it should be right from the start.
I think it's important insomuch as it speaks to the build quality of the rest of the saw. If the alignment from the factory is sloppy, where presumably trained workers are putting the saw together, it either means the saw is built to low standards or the employees aren't doing their jobs, and neither of those is very reassuring. The problem, though, is all of these name brand saws are mass produced in vaguely the same price brackets (excluding something like the Kapex), so there's not a lot of wiggle room for one to be absolutely head and shoulders above the others. Also, they are routinely handled by shippers that couldn't care less, so I bet a significant percentage are damaged before they ever get turned on, making it even harder to assess initial quality.
Finish carpenter by trade. I use the Milwaukee ten inch and have done a lot of nice work with it. My main gripe with it is that the sawdust gets blown over the bevel mechanism and clogs it so you have to silicone the bevel mechanism regularly. The Makita is a beautiful saw but I was invested in Milwaukee and it works well for me
I purchased a Bosch miter saw back in 2000. It is well built and very solid. Mine is 10" compound bevel model, and has a twin round bar slide. It cuts very accurately, and is easy to use with its vertical handle. I like it!
Always expecting quality from Bosch, @@t.d.mich.7064! But I think (or thought atleast) Nickolas here was talking about the new 18V miter saw, something along the line of the ones in the video :)
Hey Kyle, Aunt Sharon says she needs a compound miter saw.....one that will cut framing lumber as well as some nice finish work for the bar she wants to build in the new house. Got anything laying around? Just kidding, I am in the market for a new one, had a 12" Makita that I loved but sold because I didn't think I needed it anymore - then we bought a new house!! I don't need a cordless, my jobsite is my garage. Any recommendations for a corded saw for an intermediate handyman?
Diablo makes a find blade. But when I was building a house 30 years ago, I bought a 10" Delta Miter box. (the compound cut saws weren't out yet). A friend of mine that had a cabinet shop said I should get an AMANA blade. So he ordered one for me. I paid more for the blade than I did the saw. IN the long run, it was worth it. I've only built a couple of houses with it but I've loaned it out as well. The cuts were precise and clean. I could cut off oak hand rail with the waste cut being paper thin and uniform. So thin that it rolled up as I cut. I could unroll and look through the piece. I've never sharpened it. Problem is, I now have a 12" compound slide DeWalt.
I have the same problem with dust collection on my Makita. It's like if you don't buy the exact Makita attachments nothing will work and that's the only big problem. I've had to fine tune the adjustments a couple of time to get back into square cuts, but besides that this saw has been amazing everything I need. I can bring it on job sites all the time with me for cabinet work and trim work. It does all my matters and all my cuts very well and very smooth. Like you said it just feels good in the cuts are smooth and it has a great brake
I have a 12 and 10 inch. I bought a 7 1/4 for small jobs where I only need a few cuts because of the weight. I honestly find myself grabbing it More now then any other saw.
Miter Saw is an old idea because has just about 1 ft cut and cannot be used on boards. It shall be retired. I invented a "Parallel Guided Power Saw" which can be seen on you tube under this name. My saw can cut up to 18 ft or more. Look at my saw and let me know what you think. My saw may replaced miter saw, table saw, and router table. It can carry also grinders, drills press, hand saw and more.
Hey Kyle, I feel like maybe one on your dust collection ports, or even your hose is just on incorrectly. I have the ls1019 makita (corded) and I don’t have the dust collection attachment issues. Just a thought!
I have the makita 10” and it’s great 👍🏻 and can’t lie. The only down side is that it’s heavy. Other than that. Full day of run time doing base board with 5.0 batteries. But I personally fully recommended the makita. Just hit the gym and the saw becomes light weight haha
I have an old corded Ryobi 10 inch miter saw on a portable table for rough cuts. Second is a Rigid / AEG 7 1/14 inch sliding miter saw I surprised myself with how much I use, and last the 10 inch cordless Makita you show. That because of it's accuracy and the dual battery deal, which I can use with my other cordless Makita tools. Seems somewhat similar to your setup.
this is realy good information. For the moment i'm using a cheap miter saw. All my other tools are makita. I'm planning to buy a new mitersaw but i don't know wich one to buy
I have the 7.5" Makita sliding miter 36v. It is great for punch list things, shelving jobs (cuts 12") and carpentry tasks that dont require cutting tall stock. It is super light (27lb?). I don't really understand the mention on this video and others of not liking two batteries. It has never been an issue for me. My circular saw and track saw also use two.
ive never had a truly precise shawdowline it always shows shy of the blade. aka my blade always overcuts. on my makita the blade always begins where the lazer ends
Miter Saw is an old idea because has just about 1 ft cut and cannot be used on boards. It shall be retired. I invented a "Parallel Guided Power Saw" which can be seen on you tube under this name. My saw can cut up to 18 ft or more. Look at my saw and let me know what you think. My saw may replaced miter saw, table saw, and router table. It can carry also grinders, drills press, hand saw and more.
Love my 10" Dewalt. Wouldn't trade it for the world. Most of the time I don't need a slider, and when i'm cutting trim I don't want that slop that the sliders give. 1-2* out makes even a miter on 3" base look like shit.
Anywhere hearing anything about the new makita? Same saw basically but its a 12 inch. Looking at getting one but everyone's reviewing the 10s and i cant find any reviews on the 12 inch saw
Great video thanks, my take away from this is how much flex is in that cut hub table. As you were pushing that metabo saw around the table was all over the place
RR gracias por darnos de tu tiempo mostrar tu excelente trabajo soy de puerto rico y estoy en construcción de mi casa me ayudado mucho con los equipos gue comparar y más flexible para las áreas gracias no me pierdo nada de tus trabajos bien echo con elegancia muchas bendiciones..
Sold my Milwaukee to upgrade to the Dewalt 12". I loved how light the Milwaukee was but I needed the ability to cut 4x4 material on site without flipping. Now, with the 120v power I would never go back to the 18v. That being said... if someone would release a lightweight 10" saw that can crush fine and rough cuts I'll buy it immediately!
i guess im asking randomly but does anybody know a trick to get back into an instagram account? I was stupid lost the account password. I appreciate any assistance you can offer me!
@Antonio Tadeo i really appreciate your reply. I found the site thru google and I'm waiting for the hacking stuff atm. Seems to take a while so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
I like the Dewalt 12” FlexVolt sliding miter; it can run for a long time on 2 - 60V batteries or off 120V AC with the adapter. We can run all day with 2 batteries throwing them on the charger during lunch. I also like the Dewalt 20V 7-1/4” sliding miter. We run Dewalt 20V/60V exclusively does we tend to stick to that. I do like Mikita 2 - 18V systems and with Dewalt went that way instead of 60V though the 60V working in 20V tools is nice. Milwaukee is nice to have a full size single battery 18V saw though; wish Dewalt made a 10” single battery saw. I was Mikita back in the day, then went to Milwaukee, Porter Cable, then Dewalt. All top 3 are mostly equal with a benefit/deficiency hear or there just pick a battery system and stick to it as they are the most costly thing to run all day efficiently. With battery adapters coming for most brands all things are opening up.
I've been seriously thinking about the Makita (corded) miter saw for my shop. I have a Ridgid 10" slider and I just can't get it dialed in like I want it. Maybe I can adjust the detent plate (been adjusting the fence), but I've heard good things about the Makita dust collection and the slider design saves so much space. My Ridgid isn't that old but I need a couple parts and most of them are already obsolete and unavailable. Not happy with Ridgid's support at all.
I had the same first impression of the 10” Milwaukee, I changed the blade to a 60t Diablo, and I’d say, now it’s on par with my Bosch 12” knuckle slider as far as cut quality goes. Bought it to do minor punch list stuff and framing, and now it’s pretty much all I use cause I’m really starting to hate bringing corded tools out on jobs.
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Good review, I was about to buy the metabo for its features and price. I would've been using it for fine cutting trim work but I'll look into other saws.
If percision is what one is after, the sliding miter saw is not necessarily the best choice. By the design, they all have more flex than non sliding saws. Also, I understand the appeal of cordless but one also has to take into account battery replacement costs. This is why I still am a proponent of corded bench top tools.
Love the video! I am still a little on the fence though. I need to get a mitre saw. I am not a professional contractor or a molding specialists, but I want to get a mitre saw that can do fine carpentry if I had to but I don’t want it to be a heavy beasts because I may have to bring it somewhere else to use it. Also I saw you talked about the little Milwaukee but I want to get a mitre saw that can do like the 60° cuts. I guess the thing I am asking is I like everything about the little Milwaukee except I would like to be able to cut bigger pieces than the 7 1/4 can. Also a big deal breaker is the weight. It has to be somewhat lightweight. What would you suggest? Should I just get the 7 1/4 Milwaukee even though I would like a saw that can make bigger cuts or is there a saw out that has all the pros of the 7 1/4 Milwaukee but can cut bigger or thicker pieces of wood. Is there such a saw out there?
funny to see the Makita 10" battery powered have the same flaw of dust collection, where you're supposed to plug your vaccum on the moving part of the saw, like the 12". The regular 10" is made the other way around, you plug your vaccum on the base. Some Designer seriously mixed things up at makita :) Also to note, as far as I know, the dust collector plug is "not standard". I think this is made so to force yiou go with the makita dust extractor... seriously ? Beside that, I wouldn't change it, even for my previous Bosch 12"...
I have to disagree , the best thing about the makita IS the fact it takes 2 x 18v batteries . If you are already on the makita 18v platform why would you want to buy into a different 36v single battery platform . Just like the the 18v and 54v dewalt , need to have 2 battery platforms to run the tools . We are on the makita platform and run 12 , 14 + batteries so it makes perfect sense . (For the Americans 18v is sold as 20v in the states , because bigger is better in merica 😂)
"For the Americans 18v is sold as 20v in the states". No, it's not. It's 18v here too, at least for Makita, Milwaukee, Ryobi. Perhaps you are referring to DeWalt 20v?
@@markeissler never said makita was sold as 20v in the states. Mentioned it in reference for comparison of 18/36v makita to dewalts 20v range etc. People seem to think that they run at higher voltage where as under load all the 20v run at 18v
@@JamieVauxnut1 Got it. There is unnecessary confusion in the marketplace. I wonder if the 40v are actually 36v under load...which then makes you wonder what DeWalt 60v actually is.
Love your vids! Hopefully you answer this. Shopping for my 1st cordless miter saw. Would you wait for the Milwaukee 12”? Or go with something different? Also did they mention when the 12” would be released? Keep up the good work!
My sales rep said November but it could be later then that :( I own the 10" and while it is a good saw it isn't a good trim saw, the rail design is the critical part that makes it not as accurate. Since most 12" saws you are almost never full extended rails, that's why they are very accurate and tight. The spring is also stronger on the 10" than the 7 1/4" which isn't a big deal to me. The 10'' is a good saw but I would wait for the 12'' with new rails, its just not a great design. I'm hoping to find a good deal on the 7 1/4'' myself as they are 499-599 in Canada, tool only. They are supposed to cut 5 1/2'' standard mdf base which is a big plus. It'll replace the 10'' for quick on site setups and I'll use the 12'' ridgid I have for the heavy stuff. I can't believe how well made the first ridgid miter saws are, I've done everything from high end crown to large 6" rough douglas fir/cedar beams/posts and it still maintains accuracy. So milwaukee will have a tough sale to get me into a 12'' down the road, weight and accuracy would be the biggest points, since the ridgid on the older stand is a heavy prick to load.
After 40 years of building everything I have found little change in miter saws. They cut wood period! I will never switch to battery operated gimmick saws.
That seems crazy... you wouldn’t switch to a tool that requires no cord and is portable to any part of the jobsite with ease and lack of electrical requirement?? That doesn’t make a lot of sense. Also, have you ever made a cut with a battery powered saw? It’s so much more power and much smoother
@@RRBuildings I guess if some company gave me a saw for free I could see first hand. Only needed a generator at one job since 1979. I can see where it would be handy for you. I could not justify the cost at this late point in my life. I don't see these saws flying off the shelves around here either. They even discounted the yellow ones at Christmas and still did not sell many. Guess it will take some time to catch on! Nice review and keep up the great informative videos.
the flexvolt 12” dewalt is a game changer no more fighting for power on the jobsite between a generator and then only one breaker when electrical finally goes in. trying to save up and get the dewalt power inverter for my table saw.
Miter saws aren’t the kind of tool that flies off the shelves anyway, they’re big and expensive, can last sometimes decades and few buyers need more than one. I’m continuing to make due with a corded 10” Dewalt the last several years and a 12” before that, and yeah it’s gotten the job done. But there’s nothing gimmicky about modern cordless. For me, I’m overdue to get a sliding miter and Makita’s about to release a 12” cordless and that couldn’t have come at a better time.
Kyle, I found your channel a few weeks ago when I started looking into the planning phases of the shop I wish to build. Not knowing anything about anything construction, you have really helped me understand how building a building kinda works. In these last few weeks, I have binge watched many of your videos! (Cannot say all, yet.) And I just smashed that Subscribe button. Thank you for taking the time and effort to make these videos to educate and entertain. However... I am seriously about ready to ask you what it would cost me to move your entire outfit over here to build my shop!? My only complaint about your company is that you are exactly 1,716 miles from me. That would be a rather long commute. Since I am sure you do not have the desire to come here, I am currently looking for your counterpart locally. What things should I look for in a builder when they are on site doing the estimate? Questions to ask, etc? How do I (or will I) know if they care about my building as much as you do about the buildings you create? Your attention to detail means everything to me when I am looking for someone. I dont want someone who will po-po the details. You treat every building you make as if it is your own. Does the NFBA Accreditation mean anything? Should I exclude anyone who is not affiliated if it does? We have several builders here, but only one or two claim to be accredited. In closing, I do find it odd that I trust you. Probably because I just spend several days watching you work, but that is why I ask these questions, because you set the bar in the quality I am looking for. A builder that I hire must meet or exceed that bar. So thank you for any response you provide. I really do enjoy the videos, keep up the truly amazing work.
Wow man thanks for the feedback. Accredited builder is not going Thea enough to justify anything. But it does mean they put forth effort to at least become one. My recommendation is to go look at past work... talk with clients of theirs and make an educated decision.
For someone earning a living, probably some good information. For someone that just wants to repair a deck, or such type work, eh. I just bought an Admiral, yes, HF, but it's going to live it's life in my garage, cutting hardwood four by four into lengths for my lathe. No need for precision I won't use, and if my experience with power tools is correct, won't last before the slop in the mechanisms begin to show. Then you're just as well off with a Chicago Electric and it's a hell of a lot cheaper. If it lasts the ninety days, then the chances are you'll quit before it does. I wouldn't use it in all day every day use, but for most people, the big buck saws are not necessary. Precision cuts are why they make good table saws.
Hi Kyle. I have a couple of Mitre saws (Festool and the Makita in the review). I recently purchased the Metabo as well (I wanted a full battery unit for site work). I had the same issues regarding accuracy. I spoke to the rep who advised that you are supposed to lock the front lever in the down position as well as the bevel lever on the side which tightens up the torsion rods underneath. Hey Preso problem solved…….the saw now cuts very well to the point that I am using it for finish work with great success…..seems counter intuitive, but I can vouch for this and am very happy with the unit….even when compared to my Kapex. Cheers. Greg.
My wife says "Go ahead, buy the saw". This has me worried to no end!
Sounds like a threat.
Might wanna explain
The Metabo/Hikoki has 3 bolts in the back that attach to a floating plate not visible. You loosen them slightly and align the bevel to 90° using a digital angle finding tool(Klein makes a good one). There's a release pin that unlocks the right hand bevel. You align the plate(the 3 bolt plate) with that release pin to stop at 90°, then tighten the 3 bolts down. Now, when the pin is in place, you can adjust bevel left, and stop at your perfect 90°. To adjust bevel right, you push the release pin. To return to 90, you adjust bevel to the left slightly past 90, pull the release pin back, and move it back to the right where it will again stop at 90.
Then there are standard bolts at the bottom of each side to set your 45s and whatnot. You can also use the release pin to stop at 22.5, and possibly 33.9, as that hidden 3 bolt plate has detents in it.
If this sounds complicated, it's really not. I'm just not good at explaining things.
I've also found on the one I had that the slop you feel is the cheap plastic handle moving around, and not the actual unit on the rails. I was able to tighten the screws, making it pretty solid. It feels as good as any other non-vertical grip miter I've use. Another problem with this saw was the miter detent locking bar. It's made of plastic which allows very quick movements swinging left and right, but has a little give in the hinge. Some people have fabricated a replacement, but I've found that just be leaving no pressure on the knob, then locking it down, it always centers on the detent.
With Ryan's th-cam.com/users/postUgkxy_pn55PK60wAV3X_C_RoLS_67mNonoCE plan, I was like one taken by the hand and led step by step from start to finish. Thank you very much Ryan!
This is why I bought the dewalt 120volt/cordless saw. It really is the king of miter saws out today. So happy I bought it honestly.
I got one if those then I got the 7.25 version.then I got kobalt duelbevel 7.25 dont us either dewalts anymore
I've used other (10" saws) previously and was pretty surprised with the speed and cutting ability of this Dewalt saw.I have bolted mine to a table to minimize movement which I highly recommend.This is a Great saw th-cam.com/users/postUgkxPeGkHOMe05FySypTOvYumxMn-xi39oRe with a light to see your cutting line (not a laser line).I'd recommend this saw fro anyone looking to upgrade from a 10" miter saw.
Good review, I appreciate your viewpoint. A good saw with the right blade makes a good combination.
My dad was old school, hand tools were his go to tools. In the forty’s my dad had to take a complex journeyman course.
Most guys would struggle completing some of what he went through.
When I was very young I was talking machinist smack.
My dad told me that I wouldn’t make a pimple on a machinist backside. if I didn’t keep my mouth shut and ears and eyes open and listen to my senior coworkers. There is a lot of truth in that. Tough pill to swallow, but wise words.
Very informed presentation. No biased. And no pointless talk
My main saw is still the Dewalt 780 for most trim and framing. However, I keep that Milwaukee 7 inch in the truck as well on an old miter saw stand because not only is it better for some trim applications, but for a super small job or a repair it's almost always perfect. Last week I did a deck for my cousin and we had the Dewalt cutting all the four by, 2x8, 2x10 and 2x6 lumber, but the Milwaukee cut all the decking. My 13 year old cousin cut all the decking herself and no way would I have let her use that Dewalt. So on top of it being practical, convenient and light, it's also safer.
Like how ya went into detail of different jobs. Definitely helps someone looking to buy an all around good saw
I like that Makita, I would go out and get one today if I wasn't scared of my wife lol
It’s a good one
LOL, while i wouldn't buy that one i am in the same boat with the wife.
Glad im not the only one lol
Anywhere hearing anything about the new makita? Same saw basically but its a 12 inch. Looking at getting one but everyone's reviewing the 10s and i cant find any reviews on the 12 inch saw
Mandilónes . Pónganse las pilas mijos
Back when I had my bussiness before lithium batteries, when there was only nicad , I bought a 10" Makita and later on a 10" Bosch. Neither were sliders as far as I knew they were the only ones available back then. The Makita was useless the rpm were so low it didn't cut it hacked the wood , gave it away the day I got it the Bosch was much better but 50 cuts or less and the battery was dead but the installers still loved it. I just don't keep up with the new tools anymore so really liked seeing your collection. Lithium batteries have changed cordless tools tremendously. Where I live its hard to find a battery drill so any other tool is impossible to find here. Thank God for Amazon.
Nothing beats older hitachi mitre saws that were made in Japan and are mostly metal construction.
They still make some in Japan, including a cordless 7.25" that slides 12.5"
The one in the video is made in China, though.
I don't know if you read your comments, but I have the Makita LS1219L (corded 12") and it has the same dust collection port on it. Get yourself the Rockler Universal Small Port Hose Kit. It's 30 bucks and it's super high quality and will fit a ton of different tools from routers to miter saws etc. The key is cutting off the little triangular gusset that attaches to the open top part of that dust port on the Makita, so you can slip the larger of the two fittings included with the Universal Small Port kit over it snugly. The other end of that Rockler kit will connect directly to a shop vac or a shop vac hose, and you're good to go.
Enjoy!
thanks man you bet i read comments...helps me learn
RR Buildings Hey, happy to help. And I really appreciate all that you do. I’m about to start building my own house (my first house ever) with a family member who’s an experienced builder/contractor, and while I’m not post framing, your build videos have been a huge inspiration.
Cheers!
great video, we need an updated 2024+ miter saw rundown!
I got rid of my 12" and my 10" miter saws and grabbed a 7" slider. Anything that wont fit on that, I just use a circular saw. So much better for mobile transport
Daddy SmokesYams which 7”?
Have both the Kobalt and the Ryobi. Like the Kobalt slightly better
How are you cutting 4x4 using your power saw? The accuracy would not be perfect
@@blockchainshark1392 Two cuts. Flip the wood after first cut, then cut backside
The most important thing about choosing a tool is whether or not it's fit for YOUR purpose. In the case of the Makita, the answer is IT IS. The 120V AC version that is. As you say its heavy, so don't move it. If you don't move it does it fit in easily into your shop ?. In most cases it will, because you can put it up against a wall and still use it. Do I take dust collection seriously ? YES. For decades I was careless about breathing fine wood dust, and that ended in having two cardiac arrests, the first in the year I turned 80, and which required triple by-pass surgery three years later. The Makita allows a dedicated shop vac to be connected to it with no fuss.
Finally it gives me a way of making precise cuts with a minimum of effort.
Oh and BTW if you have the battery-powered version, be careful you don't overload the cut if you install a saw with more cutting heads.
I got a 8 and half inch corded hitachi I use it for everything smaller blades are more accurate
I love the Milwaukee shadow line
Shadow lines are a millon times better then a laser.
@@smokingcheeba420 whys that?
It lights up what your cutting. And gives a perfect shadow of both sides of the blade. Laser helps with one side of the blade.
You mean the DeWalt shadow line. The one Milwaukee copied. lol stop supporting China idiot. If you are an American then you are a disgrace.
Chinese holdings company will love to hear how much you love their brand 🤣🤣🤣
I have the makita. Awesome saw but it's a damn beast to move. Imo the only way to transport it is permanently mounted on the makita stand. I replaced the stand's wheels with 10" pneumatic wheels spaced 18" apart. Now its steady and easy to transport without knocking anything out of alignment.
DeWalt 12" compound slider corded. I have 3 and they can't be beat considering price/performance. The oldest one (8_9 years old) has only needed brushes once and no other repair. Many miles on it and left outside on Jobs overnight plenty of times
I have one of those bad boys too....good saw but that cord gets me everytime
I'm very left handed, but never felt an urge to grab the handle of a miter saw with my left.
Tips.
Very important if you would like to saw with precision. (avoid torsion as much as possible)!
Always choose a Miter saw with a handle positioned in a vertical line above the saw blade.
Everything must be aligned, slide rails, handle, and saw blade,it is much better this way the blade will not tilt.
Because there is some torsion in the aluminum housing .
And choose an engine with softstart on it to prevent wear of the gear and worm shaft.
It is very important that everything is aligned.
Here are some examples to show how the handle must be positioned above the blade.
Bosch gcm 800 sj / Bosch gcm 8 sjl / Evolution rage 3 / FESTOOL KS 60 / HITACHI C12RSH2 / FESTOOL KS 60 E KAPEX / Metabo KGSV 72 Xact
(This also is the case with the Miter saw without the slide rails).
If you want you can test it yourself at home if there is torsion in the aluminum housing.
Step-1. First you make a saw cut from +-5 mm deep in to a flat piece of wood about +- 20 mm thick. To this with the normal handle positioned on the right side of the Miter saw.
Step-2. Then repeat this by pushing the saw blade down with your hand (finger) on the aluminum protective cover were the saw blade is cased in. Just now only do this without the running engine.
Step-3. Now you can see if the saw blade will be positioned in or next to the saw cut. If the saw blade is (+- 0,2 / 0,5 mm) next to the saw cut then there is torsion in the aluminum housing.
Step-4. therefor it is much better to choose a Miter saw with the handle positioned vertical in line above the saw blade.
Conclusion: how further away the handle is from the saw blade how more chance of torsion in the aluminum housing.(don't go for that)..
Love Makita cordless tools and like the 2 battery platform don’t like being out of batteries and the last one charged for my impact driver is a 12 ah car battery ! Just like the versatility of the smaller batteries 2 smaller batteries cost 160.00 for twin pack one large battery is around 250.00
Just purchased one of those makita saws.
Correct me if I’m wrong, but your complaint about the dust collection hose... in other videos, it shows the vacuum attaching at the bottom section. It looks as if you may have it upside down 👍
Have you got your hands on the Metabo HTP 36v 185mm (7¼) brushless slide compound mitre saw? Just came out in Australia and am tossing up between that and the 10 inch. Massive price jump up for the 7 ¼ and just want to see your thoughts on in.
Have not
@@RRBuildings just had a look on the Metabo Htp website and looks like it still isn't out in the states thatd have to be a first that Australia gets a tool before you guys. Will just sit a wait paitently for your review. 10 inch is $1459 Au with 2 x 8 amp multi vault batteries. The 7¼ is $2499 Au bare tool so it's quiet an investment.
I can only justify one miter saw, so I have the DeWalt Flexvolt, which usually stays corded in the shop, but when I need to take it out, it's as powerful in the field as it is in the shop. I have a Chopmaster blade for it for finish work, but swap that out when I'm going to do a lot of framing. It's heavy for sure, but it's more important I have a powerful 12 inch saw in the shop.
Miter Saw is an old idea because has just about 1 ft cut and cannot be used on boards. It shall be retired. I invented a "Parallel Guided Power Saw" which can be seen on you tube under this name. My saw can cut up to 18 ft or more. Look at my saw and let me know what you think. My saw may replaced miter saw, table saw, and router table. It can carry also grinders, drills press, hand saw and more.
David Muresan you reinvented the DeWalt radial arm saw from the 1950 - 1970 era.
I've used the 7 1/4" a few times & I really like it & want one but I got a 12" electric & a 10" cordless, what I don't have is a pile of money.
yes....if only piles of money where everywhere
mmmmmm.... piles of money
I totally agree. I can see many benefits to having the 7-1/4. I’d probably use it more than any other in fact, but since I have the Makita 10in and a Dewalt 12in, I just can’t justify buying yet another. The Makita travels fairly well anyway.
Loved the info about the lasers and the shadow line, thank you very much for highlighting that!
I like that Mikita. 1 down side that gives ppl some issues is the way the bevel adjustment works. You don’t hit a switch that allowed the bevel to move. The knob actually loosens the entire saw from the base. So if that bevel adj knob isn’t super tight, the entire top of the saw isn’t tight, and your angles and deflection are super bad.
I got the Makita recently and had to do a heap of adjusting on it. It feels really nice to use but needed a lot of work to be usable unfortunately which took the shine off it.
Had the same issue with the 12" I got 6 months ago. Bevel lock was dragging when it was rotated and the fence was a little out of square. Besides it being really heavy it makes the accurate cuts I need.
The Milwaukee is not that accurate for trim and fine carpentry, I tried to adjust it for hours to get perfect cuts and it was pointless so I ended up returning it!
Until this day I'm still using my Bosch CM8S with a laser blade installed. Haven't found an accurate small miter saw that could replace it yet.
An honest red china review. Go figure.
Which saws have a depth cut garage. I need a saw that can cut a 2 inch deep trench or mortise into a 4x4 inch wooden beam. Will this do the job.? Thanks.
I'm not sure if you know this or not but the fence is a floating fence to pick up extra degrees on your 7 1/4 Milwaukee that's what the notches on your left hand side when you're facing the saw is for on the bottom of the deck
No it's not necessarily easy to adjust it but if you adjusted for up to X then modify
Miter Saw is an old idea because has just about 1 ft cut and cannot be used on boards. It shall be retired. I invented a "Parallel Guided Power Saw" which can be seen on you tube under this name. My saw can cut up to 18 ft or more. Look at my saw and let me know what you think. My saw may replaced miter saw, table saw, and router table. It can carry also grinders, drills press, hand saw and more.
How important do you think "out of the box" alignment really is? I feel like if you need finish carpentry level precision, you're routinely checking and adjusting alignment anyway.
Totally agree
My opinion (from a hobbyist who uses the saw mostly for framing) is the saw should come out of the box with all the detents aligned and accurate (90 22.5 and 45). The top bevel not so much but the scale should be accurate. With all the QC and automated assembly a jig to make sure the alignment is within a tenth of a degree or so should be no problem. I realize it will have to be checked periodically to make sure it is correct but it should be right from the start.
I think it's important insomuch as it speaks to the build quality of the rest of the saw. If the alignment from the factory is sloppy, where presumably trained workers are putting the saw together, it either means the saw is built to low standards or the employees aren't doing their jobs, and neither of those is very reassuring.
The problem, though, is all of these name brand saws are mass produced in vaguely the same price brackets (excluding something like the Kapex), so there's not a lot of wiggle room for one to be absolutely head and shoulders above the others. Also, they are routinely handled by shippers that couldn't care less, so I bet a significant percentage are damaged before they ever get turned on, making it even harder to assess initial quality.
The Makita saw is on sale at home depot with 2 batteries for 529$,sounds like a good deal?
Finishing up a job rn, thinking about buying it when I'm paid! I'm using a 20yr old Delta. haha. :/ Now just trying to decide on the stand...
Don't forget to add the 2 pack 5.0ah as well, it's free. So with the makita , you get 4 5.0ah batteries
@@davidv9546 I haven't seen that bonus deal here in Las Vegas. I bought a chainsaw for 400 $and got 4 batteries, very good deal.
I just fit the metabo 12in with the handle on top of blade. Easy for both lefty and righty’s
Finish carpenter by trade. I use the Milwaukee ten inch and have done a lot of nice work with it. My main gripe with it is that the sawdust gets blown over the bevel mechanism and clogs it so you have to silicone the bevel mechanism regularly. The Makita is a beautiful saw but I was invested in Milwaukee and it works well for me
I love my makita. Im also a finish carpenter. Main problem is the detents get hammered out.
I'd love to know how the Bosch stands up and compares to these.
Me too, man! Really looking forward to seeing how it handles. It's about time Bosch came to the miter market too :)
I purchased a Bosch miter saw back in 2000. It is well built and very solid. Mine is 10" compound bevel model, and has a twin round bar slide. It cuts very accurately, and is easy to use with its vertical handle. I like it!
Always expecting quality from Bosch, @@t.d.mich.7064! But I think (or thought atleast) Nickolas here was talking about the new 18V miter saw, something along the line of the ones in the video :)
Bosch is coming out with their 18V miter saw later this year (August or September, I believe).
Hey Kyle, Aunt Sharon says she needs a compound miter saw.....one that will cut framing lumber as well as some nice finish work for the bar she wants to build in the new house. Got anything laying around? Just kidding, I am in the market for a new one, had a 12" Makita that I loved but sold because I didn't think I needed it anymore - then we bought a new house!! I don't need a cordless, my jobsite is my garage. Any recommendations for a corded saw for an intermediate handyman?
What about the Bosch Glide saw? You should set that up in the shop!
ive never used one...but good call
Diablo makes a find blade. But when I was building a house 30 years ago, I bought a 10" Delta Miter box. (the compound cut saws weren't out yet). A friend of mine that had a cabinet shop said I should get an AMANA blade. So he ordered one for me. I paid more for the blade than I did the saw. IN the long run, it was worth it. I've only built a couple of houses with it but I've loaned it out as well. The cuts were precise and clean. I could cut off oak hand rail with the waste cut being paper thin and uniform. So thin that it rolled up as I cut. I could unroll and look through the piece. I've never sharpened it. Problem is, I now have a 12" compound slide DeWalt.
I have the same problem with dust collection on my Makita. It's like if you don't buy the exact Makita attachments nothing will work and that's the only big problem. I've had to fine tune the adjustments a couple of time to get back into square cuts, but besides that this saw has been amazing everything I need. I can bring it on job sites all the time with me for cabinet work and trim work. It does all my matters and all my cuts very well and very smooth. Like you said it just feels good in the cuts are smooth and it has a great brake
I have a 12 and 10 inch. I bought a 7 1/4 for small jobs where I only need a few cuts because of the weight. I honestly find myself grabbing it More now then any other saw.
Dewalt is the only miter saw to own. Versatile,durable,and user friendly. I used them all an hands down the best.
Wish you could have cut a board with each saw. I could have watched the speed of the cut and listened to the motor’s power.
Honestly I learned to love the 10 inch especially when I use a different saw what do you not like about it
Way too sloppy
@@RRBuildings on what cuts tho? I notice a Lil deflection in flat miter cuts but vertical cuts come out almost perfect
And what do you cut and make with Mitre saws.
Be good to hear about table saws too
Miter Saw is an old idea because has just about 1 ft cut and cannot be used on boards. It shall be retired. I invented a "Parallel Guided Power Saw" which can be seen on you tube under this name. My saw can cut up to 18 ft or more. Look at my saw and let me know what you think. My saw may replaced miter saw, table saw, and router table. It can carry also grinders, drills press, hand saw and more.
@@davidmuresan628 its un practical on a jobsite do to its size
a 4 ft is easy to transport and you can cut lumber and plywood. If you wish I will give you one 4" for free.
What a role model this guy is.
Do you know any Miter Saw model for left handed ? Or Ambidextrus ?
i think the milwaukee is close
Fe$$$tool
Hey Kyle, I feel like maybe one on your dust collection ports, or even your hose is just on incorrectly. I have the ls1019 makita (corded) and I don’t have the dust collection attachment issues. Just a thought!
Dust collection is not an issue... the issue is actually finding a good way to hook ones up
RR Buildings sorry, I miss understood your issue. I get it now. Yes, the port for a hose is an odd size.
Hi, makita a good tool for you? I'm undecided between makita and ls1219 and kapex120.
I have the makita 10” and it’s great 👍🏻 and can’t lie. The only down side is that it’s heavy. Other than that. Full day of run time doing base board with 5.0 batteries. But I personally fully recommended the makita. Just hit the gym and the saw becomes light weight haha
Lightweight, baby!
I have an old corded Ryobi 10 inch miter saw on a portable table for rough cuts.
Second is a Rigid / AEG 7 1/14 inch sliding miter saw I surprised myself with how much I use, and last the 10 inch cordless Makita you show. That because of it's accuracy and the dual battery deal, which I can use with my other cordless Makita tools. Seems somewhat similar to your setup.
this is realy good information. For the moment i'm using a cheap miter saw. All my other tools are makita. I'm planning to buy a new mitersaw but i don't know wich one to buy
The Makita's a beauty, but it's also expensive and relatively heavy compared to most other 10" saws..
I have the 7.5" Makita sliding miter 36v. It is great for punch list things, shelving jobs (cuts 12") and carpentry tasks that dont require cutting tall stock. It is super light (27lb?). I don't really understand the mention on this video and others of not liking two batteries. It has never been an issue for me. My circular saw and track saw also use two.
What about the 120 flex volt dewalt
That's a shame that the htp isn't up to scratch. I was eyeing it up to replace my Bosch.
Good video. I appreciate all of the time you spend on us.
Thanks to you, I hate anything that’s corded anymore.
Hate cords yes
Makita crosscut blades are phenomenal.
ive never had a truly precise shawdowline it always shows shy of the blade. aka my blade always overcuts. on my makita the blade always begins where the lazer ends
Which do you think is better dewalt or makita ?
Love my dewalt 12 inch!
Miter Saw is an old idea because has just about 1 ft cut and cannot be used on boards. It shall be retired. I invented a "Parallel Guided Power Saw" which can be seen on you tube under this name. My saw can cut up to 18 ft or more. Look at my saw and let me know what you think. My saw may replaced miter saw, table saw, and router table. It can carry also grinders, drills press, hand saw and more.
@@davidmuresan628 Link? I'd like to take a look at this contraption.
Yeah its a little sketchy it didn't make this list.
I looking for a mitre saw right now. This is great!
Love my 10" Dewalt. Wouldn't trade it for the world. Most of the time I don't need a slider, and when i'm cutting trim I don't want that slop that the sliders give. 1-2* out makes even a miter on 3" base look like shit.
I use a 12in dewalt slider im a finish carpenter. Never had an issue with miter cuts I did 7in crown recently and miters were great
Anywhere hearing anything about the new makita? Same saw basically but its a 12 inch. Looking at getting one but everyone's reviewing the 10s and i cant find any reviews on the 12 inch saw
Great video thanks, my take away from this is how much flex is in that cut hub table. As you were pushing that metabo saw around the table was all over the place
RR gracias por darnos de tu tiempo mostrar tu excelente trabajo soy de puerto rico y estoy en construcción de mi casa me ayudado mucho con los equipos gue comparar y más flexible para las áreas gracias no me pierdo nada de tus trabajos bien echo con elegancia muchas bendiciones..
thanks buddy great info but yes do yourself a favor change blade to Diablo for your house finish work
I HAVE BOTH MIKITA AND THE 7 1/4.
I LOVE THEM BOTH
Sold my Milwaukee to upgrade to the Dewalt 12". I loved how light the Milwaukee was but I needed the ability to cut 4x4 material on site without flipping. Now, with the 120v power I would never go back to the 18v. That being said... if someone would release a lightweight 10" saw that can crush fine and rough cuts I'll buy it immediately!
i guess im asking randomly but does anybody know a trick to get back into an instagram account?
I was stupid lost the account password. I appreciate any assistance you can offer me!
@Ibrahim Watson instablaster :)
@Antonio Tadeo i really appreciate your reply. I found the site thru google and I'm waiting for the hacking stuff atm.
Seems to take a while so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
@Antonio Tadeo it did the trick and I finally got access to my account again. I'm so happy!
Thanks so much, you saved my account :D
@Ibrahim Watson no problem =)
I like the Dewalt 12” FlexVolt sliding miter; it can run for a long time on 2 - 60V batteries or off 120V AC with the adapter. We can run all day with 2 batteries throwing them on the charger during lunch. I also like the Dewalt 20V 7-1/4” sliding miter. We run Dewalt 20V/60V exclusively does we tend to stick to that. I do like Mikita 2 - 18V systems and with Dewalt went that way instead of 60V though the 60V working in 20V tools is nice. Milwaukee is nice to have a full size single battery 18V saw though; wish Dewalt made a 10” single battery saw. I was Mikita back in the day, then went to Milwaukee, Porter Cable, then Dewalt. All top 3 are mostly equal with a benefit/deficiency hear or there just pick a battery system and stick to it as they are the most costly thing to run all day efficiently. With battery adapters coming for most brands all things are opening up.
I have a question could you tell me Makita miter saw is better than Dewalt Dws780
I've been seriously thinking about the Makita (corded) miter saw for my shop. I have a Ridgid 10" slider and I just can't get it dialed in like I want it. Maybe I can adjust the detent plate (been adjusting the fence), but I've heard good things about the Makita dust collection and the slider design saves so much space. My Ridgid isn't that old but I need a couple parts and most of them are already obsolete and unavailable. Not happy with Ridgid's support at all.
I have never been able to use miters. Being left handed just never got it.
That’s tough
@@RRBuildings I'm not in the industry so its not so bad.
I had the same first impression of the 10” Milwaukee, I changed the blade to a 60t Diablo, and I’d say, now it’s on par with my Bosch 12” knuckle slider as far as cut quality goes. Bought it to do minor punch list stuff and framing, and now it’s pretty much all I use cause I’m really starting to hate bringing corded tools out on jobs.
Tronald Dump summer is a great way ya feel like you have got to go you got to go to get a new boat for a few hundred years of life gbivfbkgfhjfvxdrhvhjggdghnvxzdgyujjjjgnkgcdbzFdchxxjcyvb bshenbhrnhehehrhryehvsZ Z z zbznsb
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Good review, I was about to buy the metabo for its features and price. I would've been using it for fine cutting trim work but I'll look into other saws.
Nothing beats the hercules from harbor freight... I use it every week for finished carpentry work
I want to hear about hammer drills
Excellent review. I appreciate the use case comparisons.
Anyone know what the sale price is for the 7-14" Milwaukee Miter?
Link in my description
If percision is what one is after, the sliding miter saw is not necessarily the best choice. By the design, they all have more flex than non sliding saws. Also, I understand the appeal of cordless but one also has to take into account battery replacement costs. This is why I still am a proponent of corded bench top tools.
Love the video! I am still a little on the fence though. I need to get a mitre saw. I am not a professional contractor or a molding specialists, but I want to get a mitre saw that can do fine carpentry if I had to but I don’t want it to be a heavy beasts because I may have to bring it somewhere else to use it. Also I saw you talked about the little Milwaukee but I want to get a mitre saw that can do like the 60° cuts. I guess the thing I am asking is I like everything about the little Milwaukee except I would like to be able to cut bigger pieces than the 7 1/4 can. Also a big deal breaker is the weight. It has to be somewhat lightweight. What would you suggest? Should I just get the 7 1/4 Milwaukee even though I would like a saw that can make bigger cuts or is there a saw out that has all the pros of the 7 1/4 Milwaukee but can cut bigger or thicker pieces of wood. Is there such a saw out there?
What is the max dimensions for the 7 inches saw? Could it cut a 2 by 6 easy?
Do you guys only build wooden frames or do you do metal frames too
funny to see the Makita 10" battery powered have the same flaw of dust collection, where you're supposed to plug your vaccum on the moving part of the saw, like the 12".
The regular 10" is made the other way around, you plug your vaccum on the base.
Some Designer seriously mixed things up at makita :)
Also to note, as far as I know, the dust collector plug is "not standard". I think this is made so to force yiou go with the makita dust extractor... seriously ?
Beside that, I wouldn't change it, even for my previous Bosch 12"...
Brother?!!! You mean that there are two of you? Just out of curiosity....why no DeWalt to review?
i dont own one...hard to justify having three let alone more haha
But surely......you need a backup, just in case one of these 3 happen to let you down?
I have to disagree , the best thing about the makita IS the fact it takes 2 x 18v batteries . If you are already on the makita 18v platform why would you want to buy into a different 36v single battery platform . Just like the the 18v and 54v dewalt , need to have 2 battery platforms to run the tools . We are on the makita platform and run 12 , 14 + batteries so it makes perfect sense . (For the Americans 18v is sold as 20v in the states , because bigger is better in merica 😂)
"For the Americans 18v is sold as 20v in the states". No, it's not. It's 18v here too, at least for Makita, Milwaukee, Ryobi. Perhaps you are referring to DeWalt 20v?
@@markeissler never said makita was sold as 20v in the states. Mentioned it in reference for comparison of 18/36v makita to dewalts 20v range etc. People seem to think that they run at higher voltage where as under load all the 20v run at 18v
@@JamieVauxnut1 Got it. There is unnecessary confusion in the marketplace. I wonder if the 40v are actually 36v under load...which then makes you wonder what DeWalt 60v actually is.
@@markeissler exactly right the dewalt 60v is only really 54v under load
I used my 71/4 deawalt 20v I just put a 60 v and run for long time.. also it’s very accurate., I used everyday easy to move around
Love your vids! Hopefully you answer this. Shopping for my 1st cordless miter saw. Would you wait for the Milwaukee 12”? Or go with something different? Also did they mention when the 12” would be released? Keep up the good work!
Depends what you do.... for us the 7 1/4” will do almost everything I need...
My sales rep said November but it could be later then that :(
I own the 10" and while it is a good saw it isn't a good trim saw, the rail design is the critical part that makes it not as accurate. Since most 12" saws you are almost never full extended rails, that's why they are very accurate and tight. The spring is also stronger on the 10" than the 7 1/4" which isn't a big deal to me. The 10'' is a good saw but I would wait for the 12'' with new rails, its just not a great design.
I'm hoping to find a good deal on the 7 1/4'' myself as they are 499-599 in Canada, tool only. They are supposed to cut 5 1/2'' standard mdf base which is a big plus. It'll replace the 10'' for quick on site setups and I'll use the 12'' ridgid I have for the heavy stuff. I can't believe how well made the first ridgid miter saws are, I've done everything from high end crown to large 6" rough douglas fir/cedar beams/posts and it still maintains accuracy. So milwaukee will have a tough sale to get me into a 12'' down the road, weight and accuracy would be the biggest points, since the ridgid on the older stand is a heavy prick to load.
Just sent the Metabo back to them for exactly the same reasons as you showed! What's the point of a miter saw that cant cut a miter lol.
I was tempted to buy one, but the glide action didn't feel very smooth.
After 40 years of building everything I have found little change in miter saws. They cut wood period! I will never switch to battery operated gimmick saws.
That seems crazy... you wouldn’t switch to a tool that requires no cord and is portable to any part of the jobsite with ease and lack of electrical requirement?? That doesn’t make a lot of sense. Also, have you ever made a cut with a battery powered saw? It’s so much more power and much smoother
@@RRBuildings I guess if some company gave me a saw for free I could see first hand. Only needed a generator at one job since 1979. I can see where it would be handy for you. I could not justify the cost at this late point in my life. I don't see these saws flying off the shelves around here either. They even discounted the yellow ones at Christmas and still did not sell many. Guess it will take some time to catch on! Nice review and keep up the great informative videos.
the flexvolt 12” dewalt is a game changer no more fighting for power on the jobsite between a generator and then only one breaker when electrical finally goes in. trying to save up and get the dewalt power inverter for my table saw.
Miter saws aren’t the kind of tool that flies off the shelves anyway, they’re big and expensive, can last sometimes decades and few buyers need more than one. I’m continuing to make due with a corded 10” Dewalt the last several years and a 12” before that, and yeah it’s gotten the job done. But there’s nothing gimmicky about modern cordless. For me, I’m overdue to get a sliding miter and Makita’s about to release a 12” cordless and that couldn’t have come at a better time.
Kyle, I found your channel a few weeks ago when I started looking into the planning phases of the shop I wish to build. Not knowing anything about anything construction, you have really helped me understand how building a building kinda works. In these last few weeks, I have binge watched many of your videos! (Cannot say all, yet.) And I just smashed that Subscribe button. Thank you for taking the time and effort to make these videos to educate and entertain. However...
I am seriously about ready to ask you what it would cost me to move your entire outfit over here to build my shop!?
My only complaint about your company is that you are exactly 1,716 miles from me. That would be a rather long commute.
Since I am sure you do not have the desire to come here, I am currently looking for your counterpart locally. What things should I look for in a builder when they are on site doing the estimate? Questions to ask, etc? How do I (or will I) know if they care about my building as much as you do about the buildings you create? Your attention to detail means everything to me when I am looking for someone. I dont want someone who will po-po the details. You treat every building you make as if it is your own.
Does the NFBA Accreditation mean anything? Should I exclude anyone who is not affiliated if it does? We have several builders here, but only one or two claim to be accredited.
In closing, I do find it odd that I trust you. Probably because I just spend several days watching you work, but that is why I ask these questions, because you set the bar in the quality I am looking for. A builder that I hire must meet or exceed that bar. So thank you for any response you provide. I really do enjoy the videos, keep up the truly amazing work.
Wow man thanks for the feedback. Accredited builder is not going Thea enough to justify anything. But it does mean they put forth effort to at least become one. My recommendation is to go look at past work... talk with clients of theirs and make an educated decision.
Dude. You should write books!
I bought the makita 2 years ago, great saw. It is big and heavy so you have to need it on a job to haul it there. It is so accurate!
Please review new 10 hitachi slide compound at lowes !
Jim Feaster what model saw? The cordless he reviewed in this video is essentially the same as the corded one
For someone earning a living, probably some good information. For someone that just wants to repair a deck, or such type work, eh. I just bought an Admiral, yes, HF, but it's going to live it's life in my garage, cutting hardwood four by four into lengths for my lathe. No need for precision I won't use, and if my experience with power tools is correct, won't last before the slop in the mechanisms begin to show. Then you're just as well off with a Chicago Electric and it's a hell of a lot cheaper. If it lasts the ninety days, then the chances are you'll quit before it does. I wouldn't use it in all day every day use, but for most people, the big buck saws are not necessary. Precision cuts are why they make good table saws.
Can we cook in the shed? Safe?
the milwaukee fuel cases on the trailer behind you... let me guess.. cordless magdrill and cordless bandsaw?