Part 2, After finding another block and then figuring out it was also cracked.... i decided to just use one of the LS engine I had in the shop. Runs great!
Good job getting it to work but there are issues …I would recommend 6.0 LS with iron block and heads for marine use even in fresh water and really a cast iron intake as well but with the LS I think your stuck with aluminum , anyways aluminum is a super big no no….also the thru hull exhaust looks susceptible to water reversion into the engine ….afirthermore you need a marine alternator, a marine fuel pump with a safety return to the carb, a marine carburetor, a marine starter , a marine distributor and I’m sure I’m forgetting something
Thanks Wayne, I have actually got all the marine grade electronics since testing in this video. The exhaust is a little deciving in the video, but there is no reversion. I'm not sure on the aluminum being an issue but I guess time will tell.
I also have a Cobalt 190 but it has the 5,0/305 Mercruiser - it will do 53-54 mph but most of the time I stay under 40 - cruises great at 30 mph. Persoanlly because of the seating I believe its the best mid to small runabout available - it was way ahead of its time. Great work!
Yes I love the size, maneuverability, and quality of the 190 compared to most other boats this size. With the prop that is currently on it, it's toping out around around 57-58 wich is perfect for me, and yes, it seems to be very smooth cruising in the 35-40mph range, I love it! Thank you
Nice, I've looked into the gearing and will probably swap that out to the 1.47. I'm not sure which is better, more prop speed and less pitch, or more prop pitch and less prop speed?
I appreciate you showing the details that most people leave out. Unless you plan to go with the 1.5 lower I would leave the LS1 cam. Sounds like you are making plenty of reliable power already.
It's definitely more than enough power, it's not a fast hull design more of a cruiser so I'm really more concerned with efficiency than anything which I am fixing check
It's definitely more than enough power, it's not a fast hull design more of a cruiser so I'm really more concerned with efficiency than anything which I am fixing check
I’m over here cleaning my clean crownline with a 4.3 to sell and after watching this I’m getting cold feet…. I’ve been wanting to do a swap even tho my boat runs fine… I dig this kind of stuff 👌🏽 that last pass when your kid laughed looked fast!
Haha, it's certainly more power than a 4.3, but it's not really setup for top speed. I'm getting high 50s out of it at 5800rpm. A prop and carb change would get me passed 60 for sure
@@JohnnyAnderson1 just a swap under my belt is all I want so I can get over it but after watching this and the one dardantuned featured on his video also makes me want to do the swap and keep my boat 😮💨🤌🏼🤌🏼
Great video, I have one i was thinking about swapping an LS into as well. One thing i noticed that you did is you left the drive in and stabbed the engine into the splines. You might pull the drive out and check the alignment of the gimble bearing to drive coupler. The reason that the mounts are adjustable is so you can adjust the mount alignment so the drive don't bind. It is hard on the gimble bearing and also it will free up more power if the alignment is good. My thinking is going to a complete different engine is going to change the alignment, even when swapping in a different engine of the same type/size, the gimble alignment is generally off.
Yeah when I seen him wrestling the engine coupler over the upper drive splines I was like 😮!!! I would have pulled the outdrive then used an engine alignment tool to check for alignment… to check you apply a even coat of grease over the sides of the alignment tool then slide the tool into the coupler then pull the tool straight back out …. Check to see if the grease has been scraped off more on one side than the other… and how easy or hard was it to get the tool to slide into the coupler? So you adjust the front motor mounts evenly from side to side and up or down depending what the alignment tool is showing… hope this helps
I've seen the alphas hold pretty good power but we will see lol. Hopefully since the boat isn't THAT heavy it will last a little while if I don't do a ton if hard launches. A bravo would be great and might happen if I can find a junk boat with one on it for CHEAP...
I worked in a machine shop working on factory to race engines. I’ve done my share of pulling SBC engines out of boats to be rebuilt or replaced. Most boat engine failures are from improper maintenance or driver error. My friend bought a brand new boat with a SBC and broke the crankshaft second time out because he was flogging it when takeoff. I tried to explain to him SBC just can’t handle the load. I’d do a 3-2-1 coyote swap and you’ll never have to replace another engine. Good luck on your project
your friend sounds like a moron that sbc has been a staple for marine engines a looooong time my father sold boats and did a marine shop for 25 years only saw a few fords .... not saying they aren't a good motor bur chevy was always the motor of choice but i will say that coyote is one killer motor ford made a home run on that one
I'll give that a look. Thank you sir My other problem is I cannot get the shift linkage setup to trip the switch correctly. I'm pretty sure will just use a button by the shifter instead.
@JohnnyAnderson1 its impossible to use a button... i tried. I installed a tuned port on a 5.7 using stock gm computer. Tried every way imaginable to get shift interrupt working. Ended up having to add the msd just for that function.
Cobalts are great boats. I have a 2005 Cobalt 200. It looks like your gel coat shined up nicely. I always try to carry some kind of backup motor regardless of how reliable I think the main engine is. Being adrift with your family on board is a terrible thing. I bought a kicker bracket that I can mount to my swim platform if needed (I keep it in the ski locker), and I carry a 6hp kicker motor under the engine hatch next to the inboard engine. It's good for piece of mind.
Not trying to say what's wrong or right. But I'd highly recommend you slap on a marine dipstick that goes to the drain plug. Next time you do a oil change you'd thank yourself for it
What cam did you use? And is there any worry of water intrusion in the exhaust with the overlap of the cam? I picked up some skirt manifolds that I’m not sure if I will use bc they are jacketed all the way down to the bottom of the y pipe. So it will take some fab work to use them. But they were free. So I may just buy some new manifolds. But the water dump being so low I was going to be able to run whatever can I wanted. If I use crusader manifolds I will have to be careful which cam I use. The skiboat manifolds are aluminum tho…. Did you weigh what came out vs what you put in? It has to be lighter then the old se up huh?
It is around 200lbs lighter than the old engin, the old sbc was iron from intake to oil pan lol. The cam is a stock early ls1 cam so there is no worry of reversion, I would like to do a mild cam in the future it seems like something around 220 duration is fine depending on the exuast setup of course, I'm sure yours could get away with much more than that. The other thing is I don't really wanna spin it to 7000rpm to make peak power so a truck cam that peaks around 6000 would be perfect.
I have a 2000 Camaro SS w/ an LS1 and a 2007 Stingray w/ 350 Mag MPI Merc Bravo1. So between these two, I have (mostly) what you have very effectively combined. Fantastic work, by the way! Are you able to get to your oil filter okay? I didn't see whether you had installed a remote port.
Tgank you I have a 02 ws6 with ls1 also lol... Wish my boat had a bravo! The oil filter isn't that bad to get to but the drain plug will be... I figure I will only be changing it once a year though, so I'll make it work.
I’m a boat mechanic for 30 years…. So many busted motors and exhaust manifolds because of lack of winterizing… just drain the block and manifolds… that’s really all you have to do
Thanks! Should be around 310 to 320hp at the flywheel 1.87 gear ratio and 24 pitch prop on it now. I Can probably swing a 25 or maybe even a 26 pitch with this gear.
Keep in mind your carburetor, alternator and starter need to be USCG approved components. I think the MSD has the rating. And it’s not a just because kind of thing. It’s a possible bomb kind of thing
The starter is a marine starter, and the carb is getting swapped soon. I was using that one for testing. The alternator, though, I'm not sure how to find one that is "marine" approved. I have a bilge blower, and every time I stop, I have been ruining it before cranking.
@@JohnnyAnderson1 They make USCG approved alternators for LS engines. Without spark protected components, you should probably run your blower the entire time you are running the engine. Beside that, well done on the swap BTW.
@@JohnnyAnderson1 Johnny - The components in question all have to be ignition proof to avoid engine compartment explosions. The spec is SAE J1171 and is usually prominently labeled as such on conforming components. The me cruiser alternator on your original engine is SAE J1171 rated.
Possibly, but at 57-58 mph it is plenty fast right now and has one heck of a holeshot, if I find a higher pitch prop for cheap I'll probably buy it just to see what it does.
What was the top speed at max RPM? The LC9'shave the DOD oil pumps and when you block everything off will put out 100+ psi of oil pressure. I cut 2 rungs off the relief spring on the oil pump to bring it back down to "normal". High OP isn't a super big issue, but what it tends to do is pump the pan dry and uncover the pickup because oil is slow to drain in LS engines. Make sure to run it 2qts over full. I did back to back testing at a drag strip and this made zero difference on performance. But my data log showed oil pressure no longer dropped. Would be really critical on a boat the way the oil sloshes around in the sump if it were low.
Thanks, it will hit the rev limiter at 6000 right now, will get a top speed run very soon. Should be close to 60. It makes about 60psi right now on the guage
@@JohnnyAnderson1 60psi shouldn’t be an issue. Did ya happen to tear the motor down a bit and check clearances? That seems really low for a blocked off DOD setup. Worked with several lc9’s now and they would all hit 70+ on cold idle, then peg out 100psi gauge at WOT. Good luck! Sounds great!
What's the overall width, measured from the outside of the manifolds??? I've got a small block Ford that I'd like to replace in an aluminum jet sled :)
? So is the outdrive a v8 or v6 on the ls swap? And can I run a 5.3 on a v6 outdrive? And last ? Can you please tell me the fitting for all and how to get them. Thanks for the video it’s going to help me with my swap.
I got the fittings off Amazon. They were 3/4 npt thread to 1" barb 90deg for the manifolds it took 6 of those. I used 2 90 deg 1" barb fittings and 5 1" barb t fittings. I know that's alot to take in but in total there are 13 fittings and all of it is fed with 1" hose, the bypass hose has a 5/8 hose shoved inside of it to make a slight restriction. The water pump I used 1 1/4" to 1" hose adapters and I'm running a 160 thermostat.
The outdrive is from the v6, and from what I have found in my research they are all the same in strength, the smaller engines are just geared lower. Mine has a 1.87 gear from the V6 so I'm running a 24 pitch prop. The v8s are 1.47 or 1.5 gear and would use a 21 pitch prop
There really is not such a thing as a "V6" or "V8" outdrive. There are 2 main types of Mercruiser outdrives. An Alpha and a Bravo. The Alphas are only rated to 300 HP. The Bravos are rated for more HP, like 500 HP or so. He is running an Alpha outdrive. Depending on what LS block he has, I suggest he takes it easy on the hole shot (like he did) and keep from launching out of the water, or he will be replacing his outdrive soon. Like Johnny said, the gear ratio of your outdrive will effect your prop selection.
Boat Needs allot more prop now that it has more power and allot more torque with the same prop the boat will run the same speed a 3k as the 4.3 at 3k rpm, give it some pitch and a 4blade if it doesn’t already have one
The factory 4.3 prop was 21 pitch from what I have read, I am now running a 24 pitch. It seems about perfect for the power, but I will be doing some top speed runs next week to find out. It's not a fast hull, and from what i have found the alpha drive will blow out around 65mph no matter what without a modified nosecone so I don't expect much. I just want a reliable boat that will cruise at 45mph all day.
The previous owner didn't winterize it I would assume, so it probabaly had water left in the engine block all winter long One good cold front will bust it
I could run more prop even on the alpha I've seen 32 pitchthat would fit lol... but Without a nose cone I think people get blowout with the alpha outdrive passed 70 or so. I have it setup for a decent holeshot right now. It tops out at 58mph at 5800rpm on the revlimiter. With the tiny carb and small cam it might have another 5mph or so in it.
@@JohnnyAnderson1I think you’re getting great performance as it is set up now. Hopefully that Alpha One gen 2 outdrive holds up for you. They are rated for 300 hp so you are a tad over. The Merc 350 would have hit the rev limiter at 5200.
@@JohnnyAnderson1 good deal. I always replace them any time the engine comes out. Probably un needed but they are cheap. Looks and sounds good! Done any prop/maxx speed testing?
@glastornjet73 Not yet. It won't stop raining lol, it been raining for like 2 weeks now almost every day. I'm thinking high 50s should be no problem but I'll find out pretty soon.
@@JohnnyAnderson1 not all the time only when you really want it to run I've ran outboard all my life and that's always been a good place to start if you look into it you may find what I say is true prop makes the most change in any boat so start there 24 or 25 pitch
That would be sick.... but I don't think the outdrive would fair very well with another 150hp lol I do plan to swap cams and go with a 750 carb though. Probably gain another 500rpm or so 3-5mph maybe.
I dunno, it jumps so hard out of the water it feels perfect lol. It could definitely turn more prop but I love the handling and pulling power with this, top speed is around 57-58 at the rev limiter which is moving pretty good in a 19ft ski boat lol
@@JohnnyAnderson1 WHEN PROPPING A BOAT, YOU WANT MAX SPEED A LITTLE BELOW REDLINE. IF THE ENGINE CAN'T REACH REDLINE, THAT MEANS YOUR PROP IS CLOSE TO BEING TOO BIG. IT'S A SMALL LIGHT BOAT, WITH GOOD POWER. ASK YOURSELF DO YOU WANT 60MPH OUT OF 6000 RPM, OR DO YOU WANT 60 MPH OUT OF 5000 RPMS. AS FAR AS I AM CONCERNED THE BOAT INDUSTRY IS STUPID. MOST ALL ARE I FORWARD GEAR. WOULD YOU BUY A CAR WITH ONE FORWARD GEAR?. MERCURY HAS A 2 SPEED GEAR BOX IN THEIR NEW 600HP V12 OUTBOARD. SMART THEY ARE. THERE IS A FLAT BOTTOM BOAT THAT HAS A 6CLY TURBO CUMMINS DIESEL IN IT. ON YOU TUBE. IT WAS SLOW, THEN IT GOT A 3 SPEED DODGE AUTO TRANY. IT NOW DOES OVER 90MPH. IT'S ALL ABOUT PROP SPEED, THEN PITCH AND DIAMETER. IF YOU HAVE POWER AND TORQUE FOR MORE PITCH, AND DIAMETER ON A PROP. YOU DO IT. OTHERWISE YOU ARE WASTING POWER. IT'S LIKE DRIVING AROUND IN SECOND GEAR IN A CAR ON THE HIGHWAY. I BET YOU COULD GET 80MPH OUT OF THAT BOAT IF YOU PROP IT RIGHT. YOU WILL OBVIOUSLY GET BETTER FUEL ECONOMY AS WELL. THAT LS ENGINE WAS A SMART MOVE. MUCH BETTER THAN THE TYPICAL BOAT ANKER GM SMALL BLOCK CRAP. IF YOU WENT DRY HEADERS, AN OPEN ENGINE BAY FOR HEAT ESCAPE, AND A LAKE WATER INTAKE AND EXIT FOR ENGINE COOLING WOULD CREATE MUCH MORE POWER AS WELL, AN ELECTRIC WATER PUMP WOULD WORK GREAT FOR THAT. WET EXHAUST ROBS LOTS OF POWER AND POLLUTES THE LAKE AS WELL.
Appreciate you showing this! I have a 4.3 Alpha 1 boat. Now I have a plan for when it is time for a repower.
It's worth it for sure! Will have some more boat content coming soon
those outdrives are GLASS !
@@Spoolingturbo6 Seems like people never really have a problem unless its a heavy boat or you throw a 600hp big block infront of it.
Freakin fantastic work! Love the smiles on the kids faces. I bet they're having a blast!
For sure!
@@JohnnyAnderson1 you could REALLY REALLY use a more aggressive prop. that motor isnt even breaking a sweat.
One helluva, nice job .that's the way to get a boat cheap and reliable you and the family gonna have lots of fun with that boat 💪🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸👊
Good job getting it to work but there are issues …I would recommend 6.0 LS with iron block and heads for marine use even in fresh water and really a cast iron intake as well but with the LS I think your stuck with aluminum , anyways aluminum is a super big no no….also the thru hull exhaust looks susceptible to water reversion into the engine ….afirthermore you need a marine alternator, a marine fuel pump with a safety return to the carb, a marine carburetor, a marine starter , a marine distributor and I’m sure I’m forgetting something
Thanks Wayne, I have actually got all the marine grade electronics since testing in this video. The exhaust is a little deciving in the video, but there is no reversion. I'm not sure on the aluminum being an issue but I guess time will tell.
Very nice work. Boat sounds great!
I also have a Cobalt 190 but it has the 5,0/305 Mercruiser - it will do 53-54 mph but most of the time I stay under 40 - cruises great at 30 mph. Persoanlly because of the seating I believe its the best mid to small runabout available - it was way ahead of its time. Great work!
Yes I love the size, maneuverability, and quality of the 190 compared to most other boats this size. With the prop that is currently on it, it's toping out around around 57-58 wich is perfect for me, and yes, it seems to be very smooth cruising in the 35-40mph range, I love it!
Thank you
That's bad ass, lol. Here I am with my converted vhaul with 20hp outbard and youtube is now recommending badass boat upgrade videos.
Heck yea, slap a 50 on it! lol
super high quality video series on the boat my dude
Great video! Need to get a 5.7 lower unit for the gearing you need as well as a bigger prop. I built a one and had to do the same thing
Nice, I've looked into the gearing and will probably swap that out to the 1.47. I'm not sure which is better, more prop speed and less pitch, or more prop pitch and less prop speed?
Change the lower ratio, lower the prop pitch.
Plenty of power, only small change in hole shot, much happier engine RPM and cruise performance.
I appreciate you showing the details that most people leave out. Unless you plan to go with the 1.5 lower I would leave the LS1 cam. Sounds like you are making plenty of reliable power already.
It's definitely more than enough power, it's not a fast hull design more of a cruiser so I'm really more concerned with efficiency than anything which I am fixing check
It's definitely more than enough power, it's not a fast hull design more of a cruiser so I'm really more concerned with efficiency than anything which I am fixing check
I just replace the head gasket in my 5.0 OMC Cobra yesterday. That milkshake-y lifter galley looked just like mine!
Yikes, hope yours was only a headgasket leak!
Very nice fit n finish btw... u do great work.
Thank you sir
I’m over here cleaning my clean crownline with a 4.3 to sell and after watching this I’m getting cold feet…. I’ve been wanting to do a swap even tho my boat runs fine… I dig this kind of stuff 👌🏽 that last pass when your kid laughed looked fast!
Haha, it's certainly more power than a 4.3, but it's not really setup for top speed. I'm getting high 50s out of it at 5800rpm. A prop and carb change would get me passed 60 for sure
@@JohnnyAnderson1 just a swap under my belt is all I want so I can get over it but after watching this and the one dardantuned featured on his video also makes me want to do the swap and keep my boat 😮💨🤌🏼🤌🏼
@Factory928AC what model crownline is it? Some of those are great looking boats so should be worthy of the swap!
Nice job sounds great!
What a bad ass setup!
Man that thing looks like a fine ripper!
I love the camera work your kid was doing!
He is the best!
That's a cool project my dude! That thing sounds great on the water
Thanks, it's not overly loud. Really just sounds like a silverado with true dual exhaust lol
You need a spark arrester on that carb to avoid engine compartment explosions 💥
If you watch the new video, it is now on there. I was just testing for a few miles here.
Hell yea brother keep up the great work and much love to ya from Maryland❤❤❤.
Would love to see more videos of this thing! In the process of la swapping my own boat aswell
Awesome, I'll be taking it out this weekend and filming that as well.
Been following you on ig since you had your grey single cab, keep up with the videos.
Great video, I have one i was thinking about swapping an LS into as well. One thing i noticed that you did is you left the drive in and stabbed the engine into the splines. You might pull the drive out and check the alignment of the gimble bearing to drive coupler. The reason that the mounts are adjustable is so you can adjust the mount alignment so the drive don't bind. It is hard on the gimble bearing and also it will free up more power if the alignment is good. My thinking is going to a complete different engine is going to change the alignment, even when swapping in a different engine of the same type/size, the gimble alignment is generally off.
Thank you for that! Where do you adjust the alignment at? Washers in the rear mount? I'll have to research that sir thank you.
Adjustment is the front motor mounts
Yeah when I seen him wrestling the engine coupler over the upper drive splines I was like 😮!!! I would have pulled the outdrive then used an engine alignment tool to check for alignment… to check you apply a even coat of grease over the sides of the alignment tool then slide the tool into the coupler then pull the tool straight back out …. Check to see if the grease has been scraped off more on one side than the other… and how easy or hard was it to get the tool to slide into the coupler? So you adjust the front motor mounts evenly from side to side and up or down depending what the alignment tool is showing… hope this helps
Thanks
Great build man I hope that alpha drive holds up would recommend a bravo swap.
I've seen the alphas hold pretty good power but we will see lol. Hopefully since the boat isn't THAT heavy it will last a little while if I don't do a ton if hard launches.
A bravo would be great and might happen if I can find a junk boat with one on it for CHEAP...
I worked in a machine shop working on factory to race engines. I’ve done my share of pulling SBC engines out of boats to be rebuilt or replaced. Most boat engine failures are from improper maintenance or driver error. My friend bought a brand new boat with a SBC and broke the crankshaft second time out because he was flogging it when takeoff. I tried to explain to him SBC just can’t handle the load. I’d do a 3-2-1 coyote swap and you’ll never have to replace another engine. Good luck on your project
Those are great engines for sure, but would require way more money and involve alot more fabrication.
your friend sounds like a moron that sbc has been a staple for marine engines a looooong time my father sold boats and did a marine shop for 25 years only saw a few fords .... not saying they aren't a good motor bur chevy was always the motor of choice but i will say that coyote is one killer motor ford made a home run on that one
Johnny, connect your shift interupt circuit to the purple wire of the purple/green on your msd ignition box to restore shift interupt operation.
I'll give that a look. Thank you sir
My other problem is I cannot get the shift linkage setup to trip the switch correctly. I'm pretty sure will just use a button by the shifter instead.
@JohnnyAnderson1 its impossible to use a button... i tried. I installed a tuned port on a 5.7 using stock gm computer. Tried every way imaginable to get shift interrupt working. Ended up having to add the msd just for that function.
Thanks for having a wholesome Godly channel
Thank you sir!
Dude! That’s wicked awesome! I wanna do this with a Pontiac motor! Put a screaming chicken out on the bow! 😁
Dooooo it!!!
Careful with the overlap in the cam could be getting water in the combustion chamber. Nice videos, you've got a new subscriber!
It's a stock ls1 cam so it should be FSR from having any reversion of water. When I upgrade the cam, I'll have to watch it lol.
Nice clean swap! I have a 5.3 in a 18ft maxum running 25p and same outdrive ratio as you. 3500rpm is 43mph i think you can probably pull a 25p or 26p.
Nice, what is the max rpm you can hit?
Wow congrads sir
Cobalts are great boats. I have a 2005 Cobalt 200. It looks like your gel coat shined up nicely. I always try to carry some kind of backup motor regardless of how reliable I think the main engine is. Being adrift with your family on board is a terrible thing. I bought a kicker bracket that I can mount to my swim platform if needed (I keep it in the ski locker), and I carry a 6hp kicker motor under the engine hatch next to the inboard engine. It's good for piece of mind.
Great idea, especially if your out on very large lakes or a bay.
Not trying to say what's wrong or right. But I'd highly recommend you slap on a marine dipstick that goes to the drain plug. Next time you do a oil change you'd thank yourself for it
Yea... the oil drain plug is not easy to access, lol
Sounds like a Power boat now
You got me over here thinking😂😂😂 20ft boat with a 4cyl volvo penta setup
Yikes... lol
What cam did you use? And is there any worry of water intrusion in the exhaust with the overlap of the cam?
I picked up some skirt manifolds that I’m not sure if I will use bc they are jacketed all the way down to the bottom of the y pipe. So it will take some fab work to use them. But they were free. So I may just buy some new manifolds. But the water dump being so low I was going to be able to run whatever can I wanted. If I use crusader manifolds I will have to be careful which cam I use.
The skiboat manifolds are aluminum tho….
Did you weigh what came out vs what you put in? It has to be lighter then the old se up huh?
It is around 200lbs lighter than the old engin, the old sbc was iron from intake to oil pan lol.
The cam is a stock early ls1 cam so there is no worry of reversion, I would like to do a mild cam in the future it seems like something around 220 duration is fine depending on the exuast setup of course, I'm sure yours could get away with much more than that. The other thing is I don't really wanna spin it to 7000rpm to make peak power so a truck cam that peaks around 6000 would be perfect.
Swap cam with a marine cam. My 5.7 vortec goes 30 at 3000 rpm, but when I had auto cam in it I had high rpm with low speeds
Only the prop or gear ratio could change the rpm at a given speed.
I have a 2000 Camaro SS w/ an LS1 and a 2007 Stingray w/ 350 Mag MPI Merc Bravo1. So between these two, I have (mostly) what you have very effectively combined. Fantastic work, by the way! Are you able to get to your oil filter okay? I didn't see whether you had installed a remote port.
Tgank you
I have a 02 ws6 with ls1 also lol...
Wish my boat had a bravo!
The oil filter isn't that bad to get to but the drain plug will be... I figure I will only be changing it once a year though, so I'll make it work.
I’m a boat mechanic for 30 years…. So many busted motors and exhaust manifolds because of lack of winterizing… just drain the block and manifolds… that’s really all you have to do
Yep, I wish this aluminum LS block had drains on it but... nope
Well done!
What are you estimating your HP to the crank at? What gear ratio and prop are you running?
Thanks!
Should be around 310 to 320hp at the flywheel
1.87 gear ratio and 24 pitch prop on it now.
I Can probably swing a 25 or maybe even a 26 pitch with this gear.
Keep in mind your carburetor, alternator and starter need to be USCG approved components. I think the MSD has the rating. And it’s not a just because kind of thing. It’s a possible bomb kind of thing
The starter is a marine starter, and the carb is getting swapped soon. I was using that one for testing. The alternator, though, I'm not sure how to find one that is "marine" approved. I have a bilge blower, and every time I stop, I have been ruining it before cranking.
@@JohnnyAnderson1 They make USCG approved alternators for LS engines. Without spark protected components, you should probably run your blower the entire time you are running the engine. Beside that, well done on the swap BTW.
@@JohnnyAnderson1 Johnny - The components in question all have to be ignition proof to avoid engine compartment explosions. The spec is SAE J1171 and is usually prominently labeled as such on conforming components. The me cruiser alternator on your original engine is SAE J1171 rated.
Nope it was just a car alternator, and so was the starter....
I got it fixed up now, they think alot of those alternators....
I think you could go up to a 26 pitch prop, you're getting plenty of RPM.
Possibly, but at 57-58 mph it is plenty fast right now and has one heck of a holeshot, if I find a higher pitch prop for cheap I'll probably buy it just to see what it does.
What was the top speed at max RPM?
The LC9'shave the DOD oil pumps and when you block everything off will put out 100+ psi of oil pressure. I cut 2 rungs off the relief spring on the oil pump to bring it back down to "normal". High OP isn't a super big issue, but what it tends to do is pump the pan dry and uncover the pickup because oil is slow to drain in LS engines. Make sure to run it 2qts over full. I did back to back testing at a drag strip and this made zero difference on performance. But my data log showed oil pressure no longer dropped. Would be really critical on a boat the way the oil sloshes around in the sump if it were low.
Thanks, it will hit the rev limiter at 6000 right now, will get a top speed run very soon. Should be close to 60.
It makes about 60psi right now on the guage
@@JohnnyAnderson1 60psi shouldn’t be an issue. Did ya happen to tear the motor down a bit and check clearances? That seems really low for a blocked off DOD setup. Worked with several lc9’s now and they would all hit 70+ on cold idle, then peg out 100psi gauge at WOT. Good luck! Sounds great!
You can also get a gps spedo if you want to have a working one in the dash
That definitely sounds like its gonna be a future upgrade!
What's the overall width, measured from the outside of the manifolds??? I've got a small block Ford that I'd like to replace in an aluminum jet sled :)
Hard to measure in the boat but it's around 27.5" wide... maaaaaaaybe 28
? So is the outdrive a v8 or v6 on the ls swap? And can I run a 5.3 on a v6 outdrive? And last ? Can you please tell me the fitting for all and how to get them. Thanks for the video it’s going to help me with my swap.
I got the fittings off Amazon. They were 3/4 npt thread to 1" barb 90deg for the manifolds it took 6 of those. I used 2 90 deg 1" barb fittings and 5 1" barb t fittings.
I know that's alot to take in but in total there are 13 fittings and all of it is fed with 1" hose, the bypass hose has a 5/8 hose shoved inside of it to make a slight restriction. The water pump I used 1 1/4" to 1" hose adapters and I'm running a 160 thermostat.
The outdrive is from the v6, and from what I have found in my research they are all the same in strength, the smaller engines are just geared lower. Mine has a 1.87 gear from the V6 so I'm running a 24 pitch prop. The v8s are 1.47 or 1.5 gear and would use a 21 pitch prop
There really is not such a thing as a "V6" or "V8" outdrive. There are 2 main types of Mercruiser outdrives. An Alpha and a Bravo. The Alphas are only rated to 300 HP. The Bravos are rated for more HP, like 500 HP or so. He is running an Alpha outdrive. Depending on what LS block he has, I suggest he takes it easy on the hole shot (like he did) and keep from launching out of the water, or he will be replacing his outdrive soon. Like Johnny said, the gear ratio of your outdrive will effect your prop selection.
Amazing fucking work bro! Factory 👌👌
What a riot!
Is the starter & alternator marine rated explosion proof?
Yes
Boat Needs allot more prop now that it has more power and allot more torque with the same prop the boat will run the same speed a 3k as the 4.3 at 3k rpm, give it some pitch and a 4blade if it doesn’t already have one
The factory 4.3 prop was 21 pitch from what I have read, I am now running a 24 pitch. It seems about perfect for the power, but I will be doing some top speed runs next week to find out. It's not a fast hull, and from what i have found the alpha drive will blow out around 65mph no matter what without a modified nosecone so I don't expect much. I just want a reliable boat that will cruise at 45mph all day.
Water hammer.?.. im assuming how the blocks got split like that
The previous owner didn't winterize it I would assume, so it probabaly had water left in the engine block all winter long
One good cold front will bust it
Needs a larger pitched prop but if it isn’t a Bravo outdrive you might be limited to a 23pitch?
I could run more prop even on the alpha I've seen 32 pitchthat would fit lol... but
Without a nose cone I think people get blowout with the alpha outdrive passed 70 or so. I have it setup for a decent holeshot right now. It tops out at 58mph at 5800rpm on the revlimiter. With the tiny carb and small cam it might have another 5mph or so in it.
Even at 40 it is still a really cool set-up.
@@JohnnyAnderson1I think you’re getting great performance as it is set up now. Hopefully that Alpha One gen 2 outdrive holds up for you. They are rated for 300 hp so you are a tad over. The Merc 350 would have hit the rev limiter at 5200.
What does your timing map look like?
I am just running it on the truck HO setting on the MSD, I might play with it next time I take it out and see what it likes
LS Swap the world
This is Bryan A just fyi.
How did you run your O2 sensor?
No O2 sensor
I can’t believe you don’t have life jackets at least on your small kids while running! 🤯
The "small kid" has a lifejacket on the whole time.
put a v8 outdrive on it and it will perform better
Have you done a top speed run yet
Hoping too this weekend weather permitting
Hey buddy. You need to change the lower unit to a 1.25 to 1 ratio. Then 4,000rpm will put you about 45mph
I've seen plenty of 1.5 ratios but not any 1.25
That 5.7 marine vortec manifold is worth its weight in gold. Just saying. Ebay
It's a 2 barrel unfortunately
You left the springs out between the bell housing and transom assembly. And you should really pull the drive off before removing the engine
I was wondering what those where after I got it installed, I jacked it back up and slid them in.
@@JohnnyAnderson1 good deal. I always replace them any time the engine comes out. Probably un needed but they are cheap. Looks and sounds good! Done any prop/maxx speed testing?
@glastornjet73 Not yet. It won't stop raining lol, it been raining for like 2 weeks now almost every day.
I'm thinking high 50s should be no problem but I'll find out pretty soon.
If you want it to really run dry the exhaust
I don't wanna melt my boat lol
@@JohnnyAnderson1 not all the time only when you really want it to run I've ran outboard all my life and that's always been a good place to start if you look into it you may find what I say is true prop makes the most change in any boat so start there 24 or 25 pitch
What manifolds did you use?
PCM crusader manifolds for a 6.0
@@JohnnyAnderson1 what’s the top speed with it! I’m thinking about ls swapping my caravelle interceptor from a 454 to a 6.0 ls
I know a boat that will run 80. Now that’s fast on water.
That's amazing! Wow!
Dang Johnny ls swapping the world
I have an rc boat that goes that fast, been 121mph in a real boat. Cant see.. eyes water.. scary...
Put a flame arrester on that carb when your running 1 back fire an that boat is gone an so are your kids
Done
Put a turbo diesel benz motor in there lol
I don't think I have any of those sitting around lol
Anyone else think he needs to upgrade to a 6.2 later ?
That would be sick.... but I don't think the outdrive would fair very well with another 150hp lol
I do plan to swap cams and go with a 750 carb though. Probably gain another 500rpm or so 3-5mph maybe.
Freeze
Geez guy, your a accident waiting to happen . Cracking blocks and starting engine while you're under it.
Believe it or not... I've been accident free for quite a while 😆
Trum sign, boats, engines, and most important the trans am in the background equals like and subscribe. I think in former life we had to be related
There's a few of us out there 😄
Subscribed to your channel as soon as I saw the Trump sign. 👍👍👍
Shame on you.... mufflers.
Lol...
"abandoned" maybe?
.... I'm no English major.. usually my wife corrects my spelling... now I think I'll leave it anyways lol
YOU NEED A LOT MORE PROP !
I dunno, it jumps so hard out of the water it feels perfect lol. It could definitely turn more prop but I love the handling and pulling power with this, top speed is around 57-58 at the rev limiter which is moving pretty good in a 19ft ski boat lol
@@JohnnyAnderson1 WHEN PROPPING A BOAT, YOU WANT MAX SPEED A LITTLE BELOW REDLINE. IF THE ENGINE CAN'T REACH REDLINE, THAT MEANS YOUR PROP IS CLOSE TO BEING TOO BIG. IT'S A SMALL LIGHT BOAT, WITH GOOD POWER. ASK YOURSELF DO YOU WANT 60MPH OUT OF 6000 RPM, OR DO YOU WANT 60 MPH OUT OF 5000 RPMS. AS FAR AS I AM CONCERNED THE BOAT INDUSTRY IS STUPID. MOST ALL ARE I FORWARD GEAR. WOULD YOU BUY A CAR WITH ONE FORWARD GEAR?. MERCURY HAS A 2 SPEED GEAR BOX IN THEIR NEW 600HP V12 OUTBOARD. SMART THEY ARE. THERE IS A FLAT BOTTOM BOAT THAT HAS A 6CLY TURBO CUMMINS DIESEL IN IT. ON YOU TUBE. IT WAS SLOW, THEN IT GOT A 3 SPEED DODGE AUTO TRANY. IT NOW DOES OVER 90MPH. IT'S ALL ABOUT PROP SPEED, THEN PITCH AND DIAMETER. IF YOU HAVE POWER AND TORQUE FOR MORE PITCH, AND DIAMETER ON A PROP. YOU DO IT. OTHERWISE YOU ARE WASTING POWER. IT'S LIKE DRIVING AROUND IN SECOND GEAR IN A CAR ON THE HIGHWAY. I BET YOU COULD GET 80MPH OUT OF THAT BOAT IF YOU PROP IT RIGHT. YOU WILL OBVIOUSLY GET BETTER FUEL ECONOMY AS WELL. THAT LS ENGINE WAS A SMART MOVE. MUCH BETTER THAN THE TYPICAL BOAT ANKER GM SMALL BLOCK CRAP. IF YOU WENT DRY HEADERS, AN OPEN ENGINE BAY FOR HEAT ESCAPE, AND A LAKE WATER INTAKE AND EXIT FOR ENGINE COOLING WOULD CREATE MUCH MORE POWER AS WELL, AN ELECTRIC WATER PUMP WOULD WORK GREAT FOR THAT. WET EXHAUST ROBS LOTS OF POWER AND POLLUTES THE LAKE AS WELL.
Personally I think you'd do better with like a 19 to 17 pitch prop
The 4.3 came with a 21 pitch originally, a higher HP engine would need more pitch, not less.