I have one of these grinders that I refurbished a few years ago. Your rear bearing on the spindle should be a slip fit in the housing, so you can clamp it tight to the shaft with the nut. It can then move back and forth to allow the shaft to center in the bronze journal bearing as you adjust the clearance. The tapered bearing design adjusts radial and axial clearance at the same time, and if the shaft is being held axially by the ball bearing, this can't happen. Also, if the ball bearing inner race isn't clamped to the shaft, it can turn on the shaft in use, causing fretting wear. The outer race also needs to be able move in the housing to allow for thermal expansion as the shaft heats up during use. It takes some fiddling to get the bearing adjusted so it runs with just enough clearance that it doesn't get too hot in use, but gives a satisfactory finish. The bearing housing behind the wheel should get warm to the touch, but not too hot. I think your shaft may be a little loose, allowing the wheel to bounce a bit under load. I get better finishes if I take no more than .001 at a pass, with a step over of .050 per pass (half a turn on the infeed.) Then do a "spark out" pass feeding the other direction, but offset the passes by .025 so the lines don't overlap. For example, if the first passes had the handle on the infeed stopped at left and right, the next pass has it stopped at top and bottom. I also noticed you have one of the pulleys on backwards. The large and small sheaves should be opposite on the shafts so that there is a larger difference in wheel speed in the 2 belt positions. I run at the slower speed as the higher speed is near or over the limit for most 7" wheels. Looking forward to seeing your progress with this machine, especially if you decide to rescrape the ways.
Its interesting to see how your bed mechanism works Jim. Mine is on ball bearings. Rockwell Delta made many changes over the years. My leadscrew binds again, so I’m gonna reengineer the whole thing. It’s annoying not being able to use the full 6 inches to grind materials. Thanks for sharing good Sir, Gilles
What material did you wind into the oil passages? I'm restoring one from the early 40's. Also; what's the best way to open the Brown & Sharp magnetic chuck to clean it?
As mentioned by people above who do already have the machine, I have to figure it’s the cone spindle bearing. It seems to be a very fussy mechanism to be able to dial in the right amount of preload without having it gaul up itself. Do you think you’ll do a full cosmetic restoration one day? I’d really like to see that.
Nice rebuild. If you can move to grinder with a coolant system... So much "better" finish on parts...and less stress on the machine (my opinion)..cheers john
There is a too black cam bolts one by the spindle one the belt side and one on the operator side that is to chang the tram of the weel something to look at
I have one of these grinders, you’re never going to get the kind of finish that you see on the nicer grinders. There’s a post below me with some good info about adjusting the spindle. You also need to balance your wheel. You’ll get a better finish, but never what you see from cable and ball bearing grinders. The rack and pinion that moves the table is always going to translate into the work. Also, due to the design of the ways and rack and pinion with a gib against the rack, these grinders are no good for cup wheels or side grinding of any kind, there isn’t even any type of v-way to keep the table in line with the x/y travel. The most i can say for these grinders is that they’re “serviceable”. You can get flat within a couple of tenths pretty reliably. Oh, and you need to grind that mag chuck in situ after installed. That’s going to give you a surface that is parallel to the wheel through the travel of the table. Just slapping the chuck on top and going ham isn’t going to work. And you’ll need to re-grind the chuck every so often, basically any time you’re setting up for a job that requires high accuracy you’ll want to skim the chuck.
Here is a playlist of a guy scraping in a similar size surface grinder I put together since he didn’t. th-cam.com/play/PLrMXztUBsRfURc857q1uLCxUYv1PHUQWZ.html&si=qds5H-QzbBM29LN_
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I have one of these grinders that I refurbished a few years ago. Your rear bearing on the spindle should be a slip fit in the housing, so you can clamp it tight to the shaft with the nut. It can then move back and forth to allow the shaft to center in the bronze journal bearing as you adjust the clearance. The tapered bearing design adjusts radial and axial clearance at the same time, and if the shaft is being held axially by the ball bearing, this can't happen. Also, if the ball bearing inner race isn't clamped to the shaft, it can turn on the shaft in use, causing fretting wear. The outer race also needs to be able move in the housing to allow for thermal expansion as the shaft heats up during use. It takes some fiddling to get the bearing adjusted so it runs with just enough clearance that it doesn't get too hot in use, but gives a satisfactory finish. The bearing housing behind the wheel should get warm to the touch, but not too hot.
I think your shaft may be a little loose, allowing the wheel to bounce a bit under load. I get better finishes if I take no more than .001 at a pass, with a step over of .050 per pass (half a turn on the infeed.) Then do a "spark out" pass feeding the other direction, but offset the passes by .025 so the lines don't overlap. For example, if the first passes had the handle on the infeed stopped at left and right, the next pass has it stopped at top and bottom. I also noticed you have one of the pulleys on backwards. The large and small sheaves should be opposite on the shafts so that there is a larger difference in wheel speed in the 2 belt positions. I run at the slower speed as the higher speed is near or over the limit for most 7" wheels.
Looking forward to seeing your progress with this machine, especially if you decide to rescrape the ways.
@davisjensen3403 Good call on the rear bearing. I'd like to reach out and discuss my rebuild as I move forward.
Its interesting to see how your bed mechanism works Jim. Mine is on ball bearings. Rockwell Delta made many changes over the years. My leadscrew binds again, so I’m gonna reengineer the whole thing. It’s annoying not being able to use the full 6 inches to grind materials. Thanks for sharing good Sir, Gilles
What material did you wind into the oil passages? I'm restoring one from the early 40's. Also; what's the best way to open the Brown & Sharp magnetic chuck to clean it?
As mentioned by people above who do already have the machine, I have to figure it’s the cone spindle bearing. It seems to be a very fussy mechanism to be able to dial in the right amount of preload without having it gaul up itself.
Do you think you’ll do a full cosmetic restoration one day?
I’d really like to see that.
Thanks, I actually sold this one so no full restoration video. sorry
Nice rebuild. If you can move to grinder with a coolant system... So much "better" finish on parts...and less stress on the machine (my opinion)..cheers john
There is a too black cam bolts one by the spindle one the belt side and one on the operator side that is to chang the tram of the weel something to look at
Thanks, eventually I did find those. a lot of trial and error though
I have one of these grinders, you’re never going to get the kind of finish that you see on the nicer grinders. There’s a post below me with some good info about adjusting the spindle. You also need to balance your wheel. You’ll get a better finish, but never what you see from cable and ball bearing grinders. The rack and pinion that moves the table is always going to translate into the work. Also, due to the design of the ways and rack and pinion with a gib against the rack, these grinders are no good for cup wheels or side grinding of any kind, there isn’t even any type of v-way to keep the table in line with the x/y travel. The most i can say for these grinders is that they’re “serviceable”. You can get flat within a couple of tenths pretty reliably. Oh, and you need to grind that mag chuck in situ after installed. That’s going to give you a surface that is parallel to the wheel through the travel of the table. Just slapping the chuck on top and going ham isn’t going to work. And you’ll need to re-grind the chuck every so often, basically any time you’re setting up for a job that requires high accuracy you’ll want to skim the chuck.
Here is a playlist of a guy scraping in a similar size surface grinder I put together since he didn’t.
th-cam.com/play/PLrMXztUBsRfURc857q1uLCxUYv1PHUQWZ.html&si=qds5H-QzbBM29LN_
thank you, scrapping is a skill that i want to learn