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@@mapit07 1 part modpodge to 2 parts water.

You could do a circle array of the 'stamps' and then subtract them from the cylinder. Then align another cylinder in the center of the first with a slightly smaller diameter to create even depth mortar lines.

I have not. But I am positive for whiskey.

Standard bricks are 2.25" high by 7-5/8" long. Scales to 0.046875" x 0.1598958333" in O scale. Depends on the size of the bricks in the graphic you used.

Thanks. If you try it, share a photo...

Just for you! Lol!

It sure doesn't. And I'm a couple of years out of practice!

I linked the articles with recipes in Model Railroad Hobbist in the video description. The weathering powders would not be strong enough to color the plaster. Various dry pigments are available on Amazon. Dry Pigment Color: Indian Red,... www.amazon.com/dp/B00263ZPQ8?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I do model in HO scale. I often use a human figure to determine how big is too big. Determine what the height of an n scale human would be in millimeters. A 6' person would be .45" in n scale (72"/160 = .45") or 11.43mm. Therefore waist height would be 5.71mm. Unless you're modeling the everglades, grass is seldom over waist high. I would therefore use static grasses of 6mm or less.

Thank you, friend!

This is a good point. You can also make acrylic paint will stick to styrene better after using a solvent based primer.

Thanks for watching!

Thank you.

Glad it was helpful!

Thank you very much!

Welcome aboard! Greatest hobby in the world.

So glad you're enjoying the videos. This is what makes it all worth it.

You are correct that it is 'matboard'. The same is used for making mats when framing a picture. I will fix that in the description. I think the wood carton (what I guess we call paperboard here - the packaging that food comes in) would be a little thin. I have seen people use it to make structures by adhering printed details to the dies of it.

​@@pacificcoastmodelworks1928 Hello Scott ! :) In fact what we call "carton bois" in French or "houtkarton" in Dutch or "Holzpappe" in German (I am from Belgium and those are our 3 official languages here :D ), which litteraly means "wood carton" is a special carton made of 100% wood fiber, a bit more dense and without acid. When you cut or engrave it using a lser it's smells good like burnt wood, whereas usual basic carton smells bad. But I have to confess that finding more technical information about it is not that easy. It's not packaging carton. It can be found relatively easily in thicknesses from 0.6 mm (sold as 0.5 mm) to 3 mm. I have never seen thicker than that but maybe it exists. I think that what you call "paperboard" is just the regular carton we indeed find, among others, in food packaging. But also on the back of some notebooks, or in calendars, ... It's not always easy to find the exact correspondance in other languages, in fact. And, if you want to know eeeeeverything about my life, haha, searching in French on internet is often a pain because for things where English, Dutch or German use only one word (some aggregation of different words (like "Kruiskopschroevendraaier" in Dutch or "Kreuzschlitzschraubendreher" in German ( litterally something like "cross-slot-screws-turner")) like matboard, paperboard, cardboard, and so on ... French translates them into several words and it makes the search on internet getting lost. Anyway, if I want to use matboard, I will ask for the one "used for making mats when framing a picture", as you said. :) Thanks again ! :) Have a nice day.

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My name - I was answering to Gray Area? :) Very nice modelling of concrete, by the way.

Lol. I got ya!

Thank you. If you use the techniques, post up a photo of your results!

Will do@@pacificcoastmodelworks1928

Thank you, Stefan! You've been here since the beginning.

It does come in a variety of thicknesses. Check at your local art or craft supply store. I'm not sure how durable the thinner board would be. It will invariably get wet. Thanks for watching.

I use very thin styrene because the thin paper options get messed up when wet. N scale has a few challenges

Thank you, friend.

Glad it was helpful!

Not in Tinkercad. The only way I could think to do it would be to make copies of the mortar "stamp" and rotate them around the cylinder, then subtract them from the cylinder. A second cylinder with a slightly smaller diameter could be center aligned within the first to give the mortar lines even depth.

@@pacificcoastmodelworks1928 Thanks for the swift reply. Yep, thats pretty much what I did with individual bricks (similar to this tower process: th-cam.com/video/-G7nOhwZ-r8/w-d-xo.html I am looking at using Blender which seems to have move capabilities in that respect, although I do like the simplicity of Tinkercad.

@@paulwooding8382 Blender is a very steep hill to climb. Nothing intuitive about it.

@@pacificcoastmodelworks1928 Indeed. Fortunately I have a young son who has mastered it and has done a great job of using some of its tools to create just what I needed. Now playing with multi colouring in print form :-) So much fun, I can see myself spending more time with my printer than my Scalextric :-)

I've printed lots of stuff using this technique. I assume you exported the result to stl to import into the slicer? Beyond that I would have no idea.

@@pacificcoastmodelworks1928 yes mate i suspect I’ve missed a step or some thing wrong I’ll keep trying lol

We agree!

I think this was my second video. I have since started using a wireless lapel mic.

Thank you, friend!

Not sure its worth killing for, but its fun!

Thanks. I haven't worked on it in about 4 months. As odd as it sounds, every fall I have to kickstart myself back into the hobby!

Not a very good video, but a great museum!

Static electricity makes the fibers stand up. That's the static that is referred to, not being motionless.

Thanks, friend.

You are correct about Armstrong and I knew that! Have no idea why I said Wescott!

Thanx!

Appreciate the kind words, Les!