วีดีโอ

Thanks for this!

Any chance you could post the Prusa Slicer settings? Esp extruder rates etc. I have TPU now failing to feed... wraps within gears on MK3S. Using same gcode unaltered, printed fine before... so now going back to basics re extruder motion speed/accel, temps, specs, etc... Only things changed... dried out the tpu, upgraded the fw, recalibrate the nozzle heating. Nozzle is clear. TPU runs through ok at the low speed during filament change etc. Prints first layers ok, but then filament jambs. Needed partial dismantling to clear. Then replaced ptfe tube, which was visibly worn on the bore. Did a cold pullml. Cannot see any other issues or wear, on the filament path. Not printed much since last successful TPU print. Prints PETG etc just fine.

doyou have any idea how to get this to work with tach readings individual for each fan?

Can you send me the stl for those rims please 🙏 i want to try them out

Just a nice little side note, your driver isn't necessarily bad it could be bad wiring also. I had this error 2 days ago when I upgraded my steppers. Apparently my extension cables are either wired differently, or the motors wired differently I eliminated the extension cables and plug the ldos straight to the octopus board n that error went away. So if you've been playing with stepper cables check your cables before assuming your drivers are bad.

For fuck's sake how much rambling do I have to sit through before I get to what's promised in the title?

Works Great! Thank you very much. I have used it on several OrangePi 3 LTS boards. Questions. As I look at a current running: 1) It feels like the main menu has change? True? 2) Is SD Card 1st and eMMC 2nd possible? Like a desktop startup? Thanks!

I have been struggling for months all I get is z min and max cannot error can you help

The video was very well done. Very informative. I try to go to your website to download your printer config, but the site is not working.

I have tried to down load your config file, just found your site. I cannot set up my printer Z end stop. Head driving into the bed Can you help

Hehehe, love the simulated printer movements in the beginning of the video 😅

That’s very very square

can you put mainsail on raspberry pi 5

its a nightmare, I had so many of those :( I had a brand new ruby tip nozzle buried under a gigantic blob of plastic :(

can you share your printing profile

Did this work well?

My Anycubic Vyper can print faster than that and it isn’t optimized at all. There’s no way that was top speed on either of those machines

hi! amazing video, I'm looking forward to buy this printer soon! How long did it take you to assemble it and set it up completely ?

Nice

I print my tpu at double that speed on a MK3s+. Yours isn’t tuned yet

You should put the carbon in an old nylon stocking or panty hose to prevent the dust particles from spreading everywhere. Especially inside the enclosure. Many other designs also include a hepa filter to filter out the particles from filament.

Based on your other video, you're not even close to 200mm/s. You're hitting the 8mm^3/s volumetric speed limit way sooner, slowing you down to maybe around 60mm/s. Btw, you sound exactly like the actor Manuel Garcia-Rulfo (Lincoln Lawyer)! Very nice voice!

wait but cant that ruin some of the parts inside the extruder?

Love seeing your videos. I'm soon to start my build. But one question. That Screwdriver is it you are using?

We all know this apparently you didnt 😂

And where is the linux desktop?

The Voron for 'my' needs is fine. Fixed bed. Have a Delta printer for the tall stuff. Cheers.

Oh man, the torture watching you try to put that hotend sock on.

AWG size for 24V from PSU?

Hi! Thanks for all the instruction videos... Am at this final point, but your webshite is down, so I cant steal your config file. Any way to get it?

we miss your new videos :) Regards

G90 ; use absolute coordinates M83 ; extruder relative mode M140 S{first_layer_bed_temperature[0]} ; set final bed temp ;M104 S150 ; set temporary nozzle temp to prevent oozing during homing M104 S150 M109 S150 M190 S{first_layer_bed_temperature[0]} ; wait for bed to heat up before homing ;G4 P480000 ; wait 8 minutes for bed to distribute heat G4 S10 ; allow partial nozzle warmup G28 ; home all axis QUAD_GANTRY_LEVEL ;BED_MESH_CALIBRATE PROFILE="default" G1 Z50 F240 G1 X10 Y30 F3000 M104 S{first_layer_temperature[0]} ; set final nozzle temp M190 S{first_layer_bed_temperature[0]} ; wait for bed temp to stablize M109 S{first_layer_temperature[0]} ; wait for nozzle temp to stablize G1 Z0.4 F240 G92 E0 G1 Y160 E10 F1500 ; prime the nozzle G1 C12.3 F5000 G92 E0 G1 Y30 E10 F1200 ; prime the nozzle G92 E0

Hola necesito ayuda para mejorar mi Ender 6 🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏

What is a flying gantry, and how is it different from a normal gantry?

Hello great video from you. Can you tell me where I can find the parts for the drag chain? And very importantly the holder for the extruder. It would be great if you could give me some information.

Hey I've got some trouble with my Voron build. Can I just grab "your" cfg file and replace mine? My hotend fan doesn't turn on while heating up. Filament Cooling runs well. Do you provide any further help if necessary via discord or something like that ? Greetings from Germany

Thank you, very helpful!

Fil-lay, a whattt hahaha

3:50 yes it does matter, if you connect neutral to your switch, you will have the bed on the live wire when it’s turned of. (ie. You measure 230V on the bed wires when idle.) You want the bed permanently connected to Neutral, and the Phase to be connected to the switch

What are the brand name for the filament you used? What speed and temp settings did you use? Layer hight? What cooling did you use? All of this has an impact on the filament printed. Without all info, this video is misleading and not a info video on impact resistant in cold weather..

While a bit old but thanks for the hint. After a TPU print I tried cooling / freezing my MK3S+ smooth bed sheet and tried to flex the print off. A few corners released but not much else. I then saw your video. I heated my bed up to 60C and applied a little isopropyl alchohol to the edges of my print and voila, it started releasing without any damage. I may need to use a glue stick next time but maybe not if this workd Thanks!

Get rid of those squeaky rollers get linear rails and crank up that speed 😶‍🌫️

hello, what are the sizes of alumium plate and silicone heat? iam watching all yours videos

Hi sir i need your help, I'm just building a diy core xy 3d printer. I recently purchased a btt octopus pro v1.0.1 f429. I already have a btt mini 12864 v1.0 display. Do the display compatible with the octopus pro main board...!?

ah yes, the big one and the small one, how lovely accurate terms for a DIY self sourced 3D printer :P, i still dont know if my 10x20 chain will fit in the back or if i have to order a 10x10 one

you should do seperate wires :p because youre going to be annoyed a lot when you may want to add in an 48V PSU and have to reopen all the stuff and wire another pair there hehe

is that clear tpu on the top layer?

It depends more on how you print it than the material unless you are comparing with a brittle material such as PLA. If you print both in a heated chamebr close to their glass transition temperature they will be very strong. For ABS you need to print it in an 80C chamber and PETG in about 60C. You need a lot of cooling in those temps and hotend cooling needs to be very good for the filament not to melt in the cold section of the hotend so it doesn't clog. I would say if you have an desktop printer with an enclosure PETG will be much stronger because you can print it at much closer to it's glass transition temp unless your printer is heavily modded to withstand enclosure temperatures of 80C.

Or you could avoid EVER touching your plate like the plague. Print farms don’t sand their plates…. Human grease sticks never touch the beds. Wash it with dish soap and pretend it’s got Ebola from now on.

just take 2 magnets together, put one in one side, and then push the other part on to the others..then you know they're sticking together