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Hi! Yes, the usage and troubleshooting steps are the same! Don't worry, your tool is covered by a full warranty and we're always on hand to help. Drop us an email at info@zoicpalaeotech.co.uk with the symptoms and we'll get it up and running properly 👍🙏

@@zoicpalaeotech Hi, thank you. I will try it, if it doesn’t work I will get in touch with you.

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How much is this please 😊

Hi! There are many situations where air abrasives can't be used - it could be that the fossil is softer than the encasing rock, or that the abrasive powder would damage the surface of the fossil. We find that we get a better finish with the Balaur under the microscope on the vast majority of fossils, even where abrasives could be used, although it is naturally much more time consuming.

@@zoicpalaeotech got it, thank you for the clarification!

The product in this video is AKEMI liquid wax. It's quite different to Paraloid B-72, and is based on a combination of waxes. When applied, it intensifies the colour of the fossil, and dries down quite matt. It can then be buffed up to a satin-like shine if desired, or left matt. It's great for any fossils that you don't want to look unnaturally shiny :). www.zoicpalaeotech.co.uk/products/akemi-polishing-fluid-no-10-2012-100ml-varnish

Paraloid B-72 on the other hand is a conservation-grade acrylic resin, often dissolved in acetone. This can be used as a consolidant, adhesive or varnish (leaves a satin-like sheen). More information here -www.zoicpalaeotech.co.uk/pages/paraloid-b72-in-fossil-preparation

@@zoicpalaeotech yeah thought so, thanks! Also do you have any fossil glue products? B72 works on some stuff but I need a stronger adhesive.

@@DreadEnder We have a wide range of superglues (great for smaller joins) and epoxies (for larger/heavier fossils). Paraloid B72 as an adhesive is reasonably strong once it has cured, but the main reason to use it over something else is because it is reversible with acetone. It's also used in museums because the join is strong, but not superstrong. Let's say you were to drop your Roman amphora that you've glued back together with Paraloid B72, it will mostly break along the original breaks. If you'd glued it back together with superglue, it would find new places to break. Superglue: www.zoicpalaeotech.co.uk/collections/consolidants-adhesives/superglue (and more info here about using superglues in fossil prep - www.zoicpalaeotech.co.uk/pages/superglues-in-fossil-preparation) Epoxies: www.zoicpalaeotech.co.uk/collections/adhesives/epoxies

@@zoicpalaeotech cool thanks!

This one is a BRAND NEW tool, only released this weekend 🥳. It's called the Ammonite and has quite a bit more power than our other budget tool, the Trilobite

@@zoicpalaeotech oh yeah sorry I got confused with the two, I have the trilobite. I expect this one will be my next step up!

@@DreadEnder It's got quite a bit more power behind it than the Trilobite (different internal mechanism), so the two would compliment each other very well.

50L it's good for the compressor, and the compressor make more noises

@@apc_r4431 Thanks for letting me know. Hope you've had a good Christmas ✌️

We have a few videos up on our channel with some tips on plugging in your tool to the air compressor, adjusting the pressure and some advice on how to use the tool in the workshop :)

A new compressor is definitely in order ... Or a ZOIC Chicago 😜. The ZOIC Chicago is much more powerful and so you get through rock more quickly, and it has a much lower air consumption than the Trilobite

Yes, we're working on a video for each of the different pens 😁. We hadn't thought of doing one for the different stylus options though and that's a brilliant idea - definitely one to do at some stage!

Glad it will be useful! Many more on their way!

We did see! My advice would be to hold it a little more like a pen, which will give you more control. Check out the video we have on the Trilobite here - th-cam.com/video/QehahLzIgak/w-d-xo.html. Harder rocks will be slower going than softer rocks with the Trilobite, but you can through pretty much anything at it! It might just need a little more patience than with a more powerful air scribe. You will have the advantage with it that it can be very delicate, so when you're working on the centres of ammonites, you'll have a lot of control and precision. When you look at a fossil someone has prepped, you can't tell how long it took them, but you can tell how careful they were with the finishing touches :).

Even the smallest, most delicate air scribe is a huge step up from the Dremel! The Dremel is super affordable but everything does take a long time. You're spot on, the ZOIC Chicago is the best all-rounder for Yorkshire matrix. You've got enough power to remove rock at a decent rate, but enough finesse to prep the centres of ammonites and do more delicate work. 👍

Hi Colleen, this one you can see the ammonite just peeking out. Usually you can see a little bit of a fossil sticking out of a rock either just on the surface or if you split a nodule. There are some rocks that contain fossils, and some that don't. This is a nodule from Lyme Regis beach where with a trained eye you can learn to pick out certain rocks as more likely to contain fossils than others based on colour, texture and shape which helps you determine which layer of rock in the cliff it came from. It takes many many years to get good at this!

Interesting analogy