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@@MT13. good question. The idea is to take smaller amounts at a time, so that if you need more you just take from the main container. Any small amount is just scraped off the putty knife into the garbage. Keep the main container clean and free from dried contaminants.

@@TrustedHousePainter ThankYou so much! You don't know how much this helps .. I've done all my research now and I feel fully confident that I can do this...hopefully...Jesus take the wheel! 🤣🙏😬

@@MT13. you got this. No problem.

@@tylerlong4696 unsure what you mean by “moisture control”. What moisture are you referring to?

@@TrustedHousePainter steam from the shower

@@tylerlong4696 no that primer is not designed for moisture control. In fact, I don’t know any primer designed for moisture control. Primers aren’t designed for protection, that’s what paint is for. I recommend applying a kitchen and bath paint - like Ben Moore Aura or SW Duration. Also, the best moisture control is ventilation. (Having windows open and a high quality exhaust fan). I’ve made a few videos about bathroom paint and ventilation.

@@misenuatransformationalrit6485 NO you can’t stain over a paint. Stains soak into the substrate (wood, concrete) rather than sitting on top of the surface (like paint). So if you’re trying to stain overtop of a painted surface it won’t work. However, you CAN apply a solid stain over a paint - but I don’t recommend it. Solid stain products like Superdeck, Flood and a few others have a hybrid formula (latex and alkyd resin mix) that purports to be able to coat overtop painted surfaces but IMO why would you want to? Why not just repaint? Solid stains look and act very similarly to paint, but if you had bare wood, the advantage of using a solid stain is that you don’t need to prime the surface first. You can just apply 2 coats of solid stain directly to the bare wood (whereas most paints require a primer coat first). Hope this answers your question. If you have other paint related questions you can call our toll free line at 1-866-724-6818 anytime and speak to a professional painter. Or send us an email at support@trustedhousepainter.com Thsnks for your question.

Thank you 🙏 how about ronseal fence life plus paint and putting stain on top of that as it’s a water based paint finish and with the rain it washes off each year 😮😢😅

@@misenuatransformationalrit6485 what’s the stain product you want to apply? I’m unfamiliar with Ronseal fence life plus products. It’s probably best to consult the paint rep from the store you purchased it from. You can also check the MSDS sheets for e dry products application and guidelines.

It’s silkens stain I want to put on top thank you 😊

@@TrustedHousePainter thank you 🙏

@@-DexterMorgan- brilliant advice. Thanks a lot for your tip. It makes sense because this is a water soluble putty. So when you add a little bit of moisture around the lip, it keeps everything moist so that you don’t get hard dried chunkies mixed in with your fresh soft potty. Thanks again.

@@haddie-c5c it was a lot of work to paint it. Took c2 primer coats and x3 top coats of SW Emerald satin. (Simply white)

@@TrustedHousePainter wow that's insane

@@entice59 I recommend only applying 1 thin coat of paint to the inside panels of the door. If the door is already primed then it’s protected from wet weather. But don’t apply too many coats of paint on the edges.

@@TrustedHousePainter thanks for the reply!

@@matto4539 yes, this is true most of the time. However “sometime this works and sometimes it doesn’t”.

@@jackieberg6354 yes, applying water based paint overtop of oil coatings will likely cause paint failure. Water based paint doesn’t adhere to oil (alkyd) paint coatings. It’s important to note that even applying a primer coat doesn’t guarantee the previous coatings won’t bubble. It’s very common on older homes for new coatings to grip onto the old coatings, which causes the old coating to let go to the wood (substrate) - which causes a bubble to appear. So it doesn’t matter if you prime oil coatings before you apply acrylic latex paints. Many times on older homes, bubbling happens because there’s too many layers of paint and the old wood fibres let go of the old coatings.

@@alexski55 as mentioned in the video, if you have small patches of drywall it’s ok to use the paint and primer in one. However, if you have a lot of new drywall it’s best to use a pva primer first. But if you have lots of left over paint and want to use it up, I’m confident it will work fine.

@TrustedHousePainter thanks so much for responding. Really cool you take the time to answer so many questions!

@@alexski55 no problem! Happy to help give personalized help in an automated AI world.

@@jefersonguchtain1514 thank you!

@@KannabilKrill707 as an exterior painter, if you’re not including carpentry services in your business you’re leaving A LOT of money on the table. Just saying. (We also do window and gutter cleaning, gutter repair and stucco repair.)

@@tomdigrazia6645 great tip. Thanks for your knowledge and help!!

Great question. No that is not always necessary when you are staining to a darker color. That's usually when your current wood coating has failed, lost it's color, darkened - or if you're completely changing the color of the current stain. On this project, we were restaining with the same semi-transparent stain, same color and same product - so it was just a quick rinse and scrub brush to remove any dirt and debris (and dead wood fibres). There's a lot of variables involved so without seeing the state of your wood, or the colors you've selected, I can't say for certain.... but if you send text a few pictures of your home along with mentioning this video I can give you a more precise answer. 1-866-724-6818. Or send to support@trustedhousepainter.com mentioning this youtube video. You can also call the number to speak to a paint expert. Cheers!

@@WilliamVG there’s lots out there. This one from RDINSCOS seems to be a good device. www.amazon.ca/Moisture-Humidity-Detector-Firewood-Hardwood/dp/B0CN121JFX/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?adgrpid=68005559504&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.-AYywfGeQ8detZcQ49KnAsfutf_hlRg93adPu4Itu4CJt1zeLP7PPZpENFLM8OkYUsYMUxdEDTn4a-kieSv9Uf4a1GWIMUWTg0YywzECmCHPj5f7Tc6mim_KHckXzjl5Y43EMZA1v_0h0BYQEs0oLFGpOPziQwNHQj_2-DZWn1X_PMS_Ws3lt5r1dv5ZzPV0QkZLd0xz_puWjnXBQkUElA.2iCNpR4g124RTh7I3o5c5h-tpaOVbuD2gwp6D3p4PL8&dib_tag=se&hvadid=682772920723&hvdev=m&hvlocphy=9001546&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=e&hvrand=8843501942790923938&hvtargid=kwd-6731051241&hydadcr=16225_13715884&keywords=wall+moisture+meter&qid=1724610255&sr=8-7

@@subbu515 you’re welcome!

@@dantosinferne you’re welcome!

@@NoName_213 patching isn’t a 1 size fits all. There’s some patching that dries harder and faster and others, like this pink product that is meant for smaller patches. This video isn’t promoting any specific patching, just a proven process that helps preserve a clean and efficient way to apply wall patching.

@@HowdyDo2 thanks for watching.

Add some water if you ever see it drying out

@@FirstNameLastName-okayyoutube sounds hi tech!!

@@joemorales9093 you could use either. The more important part about painting a bathroom is using the correct kitchen and bath product for the top coat. I’ve made a few videos discussing 3 tips for painting your bathroom.

@@terrydill8592 for your metal garage door I would use a product like Benjamin Moore Command. It’s a water based urethane and is very durable. Sherwin Williams has their version called Multi Surface Acrylic which is also good. Or “All Surface Enamel” is another good choice. I have a video review of the Command product. It can be applied to almost every surface. But if you want a factory finished-like look I would consider spraying the panels. If you don’t spray the doors you can purchase low nap rollers.

@@TrustedHousePainter ok thank you, I have a sprayer I can use so I will try it out.

@@terrydill8592 let me know how it turns out for you!! Thanks

@@natol833 unfortunately it has to be repainted. If I were to do it, I would use the crosshatching method. That’s when you paint in one direction on the first coat and the opposite direction on the second coat. This helps ensure a proper coating coverage of paint. Also, I would use quite a bit of paint, possibly spray the ceiling.

Will wetting your roller with water, just lightly wetting it, assist with a better coverage too? Also, will doing one coat and then a second coat with some water in the paint assist any?

@@lindabean6710 good question. Wetting the roller likely won’t give you better coverage because after the 2nd or 3rd dip in the tray your roller should be properly saturated. It usually takes 2 or 3 dips for the roller to be ‘primed’ but by wetting the roller it light improve the first pass. The key is to use a thick enough roller nap - like a 20 mm, and using sufficient amount of paint with every dip in the tray. Another tip is to never roll your roller dry. Each dip of your roller should only be stretched so far. Modern paint is not meant to travel or “stretch” too thinly. This is one of the biggest problems with DIYers - they roll each pass until the roller is bone dry. Keep the roller wet, add lots of paint and allow the paint to do the work.

@@JohnAchin yes and no. As you know every job has its unique challenges. I agree the roller holds more paint which can make it faster, however, sometimes that becomes more sloppy and can be more grief that reward - especially for stains. We tend to follow recommended guidelines from the MSDS sheets.

@@davidfolts5893 you’re welcome. If you need any additional help with any painting questions you can call our toll-free hotline at 1-866-724-6818

@@TrustedHousePainter Thank you, will do.

@@Mr.Bojangles12 you’re welcome. If you have any other paint questions you can call our toll free hotline at 1-866-724-6818

@@TrustedHousePainter Thank you, I just purchased a queen Victorian 124 yrs old

@@Mr.Bojangles12 wow. That’s a character home for sure. Needs extra love!!

@@darreneffle4118 you’re welcome. Everyday we learn something new from each other!!

@@valerieroling8035 no thank you thank you!!

@@applewhiteroad wow. That’s super interesting. Never really heard of this happening to a skim coat. I would like to know what product the skim coat was. Was it premixed mud? Or did you add the water? Maybe an additive in the mud? Did you try using an oil primer - Kilz or Zinsser? I know working with oil sucks but give it a test. If it’s a small section on the wall you could buy an aerosol spray can and blast it. Maybe give that a try. I don’t know many primer products from Lowe’s or HD. try Kilz.

@@tharris9051 why do you wish for captioning? Is the audio not clear? I can see if I can turn it on.

@@sugs_tube we don’t charge per square foot. Staining shingles while standing on the ground is a lot easier than staining shingles standing on a 32’ ladder or staining a roof dormer on a roof ladder. We recommend NOT charging per square foot, or alternatively, come up with your price and then divide by square foot - and you’ll have your price. But beware, it might be more than $10/sq ft. It’s dangerous pricing per sq ft. That’s usually only a new construction pricing style - because there’s very little variables that make the job more difficult.

If you apply the right amount of primer (and back roll evenly), and use a high quality paint you shouldn’t see any overlap marks. Usually, overlap marks are cause by insufficient amount of paint/primer along with uneven pressure on your roller while back rolling. If you find yourself working too hard, that means that you haven’t applied enough paint to the wall. You should let the roller do the work.

My preference is to bankroll new drywall sealer. You don’t always have to, but for good practice, I do.

​@TrustedHousePainter does new drywall need 2 coats of pva, and if so do you backroll both coats?

@@TheBenjammin no, new drywall does not need 2 coats of PVA primer. You should apply a moderate amount of primer to the drywall, allowing the drywall to be properly covered.

What would you recommend?