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thanks for the insight on the amp design. I do not have an electronics background. I can read schematics and test components but am clueless if asked to modify or design circuits. Fortunately, fixing these does not require much of the latter talents. I did find that the bias pots on the TSA 7 amp developed some dead spots which caused my current limiting bulb to light up when testing these. My electronics guru soldered a 50 ohm resistor across both pot leads which limited this effect. I must say that therein lies the challenge here as with each passing year, more components that were previously bulletproof are showing up faulty for the first time. Can't just replace all the electrolytics and expect your amp to work fine in 2024.

Glad it was helpful!

thank you Mike. Mid 60's Seeburgs can be fixed. It will take me awhile to come up to speed but my brother Tom is a good resource for these.

You're right. Seeburg repair is a paygrade up from Rockola repair. But this era looks fixable to me. Plus there are so many more of them in the Pittsburgh area than Rockolas.

I'm pretty sure the magazine motor for the 440 has two more wires (4 total) because it has an electromagnet, not a permanent magnet. I don't have a 440 here to look at. Later motors had permanent magnets and only two wires. Try one of the FB groups.....Rockola Jukebox Club. Join and then ask if anyone has one. Lots of scammers though. Mike Florio, Doug Wilderman, Randy Pimpler andRick Murray are all reliable parts suppliers. All on FB

Aaaahhh. I don't have a 440 here or a 440 manual. What I would do is lift the lid and manually flick a pin up on the right round pin bank to the far right. That should do the work of the wobble plate solenoid and should close the wobble plate switch. If your read out arm and magazine then start, it is possible your wobble plate solenoid failed. If nothing happens when you flick (select) this pin manually, then you may have blown the 1.6 amp mech fuse. This as I recall is on the front of the power supply which I believe is on the bottom left of the jukebox cabinet. Check this fuse for continuity and replace if it reads open. If this is not helpful, then, yes, it get stickier........you will need to check the bronze control box under the mech and remove it. There is a magazine relay in there as I recall that could have gone bad. Check its continuity

You picked the one model Rockola that I have avoided because of the tube amp. So I have ZERO experience with a 441. If it is like the 437-440, then the likely suspects here are the keyboard and the write in (K3) and stop (K4) relays that are on the power supply on the bottom of the box, on the left. If you are able to access the power supply and clean the relay contacts on both these relays, do it. If no luck, then go to the keyboard with the jukebox powered OFF and exercise every letter and number button by pressing it in fifteen times since dirty keyboard contacts interrupt the signal needed in the selection process. In fact, the keyboard is the Achille's heel of these earlier Rockolas and sometimes you have to hardwire all the letter and number buttons since they are in series and if just one letter or number switch is not making a good contact, the selection process will be interrupted. If nothing good happens, I would join the Rockola Jukebox Club group on FB and post your problem so others with more experience with 441s can give their thoughts.

First thing to do is to go to the right side of the round pin drum and be sure EVERY pin is put back in the unselected position. Most likely one pin is in the selected position and that tells the magazine to keep searching for it. If you find this condition and correct it, the magazine should stop where it is supposed to stop in the home position (the gap). Then lift the lid and select 124 which should be a pin on top of your round pin bank. See if the write in arm stops at this pin location, see if the current limiting bulb flashes, and see if the write in hammer coil tries to hammer the pin or not. Then report back. You may have to join the Rockola Jukebox Club group on FB and post videos of your problem so I and others can try to help. Write in problems can be complex.

Are you referring to a 444 model? Failure to hammer the write in pin starts with the K4 write in relay. Have you reseated it and taken off the red cover to clean the contacts? If no, do this. Then leave the cover off when you put it back into its socket so you can see if it is actuating or not Then go and reseat the the selection molex on the front of the power supply and the credit unit. Then go to the credit unit. Open it up and clean the contacts of the ADR relay and the debit coil. Again leave it open so you can see if the selection impulse switch and debit coil work when you make a selection. Lastly, watch the wobble plate solenoid to be sure it is kicking in when the write in motor stops. Lots of possible causes of trouble here. Review sequences 9-11 in the manual. Reset the jumper plug on the front of the power supply as well. Then report back. We may have go thru the Rockola Jukebox Club group on FB to send each other videos. If you haven't joined this group, I would recommend it.

It would be easier to communicate on FB. Join the Rockola Jukebox Club group and post a video of what is wrong with your 454. Then we can respond with videos to try to help. Plus you will get more knowledgeable folks to chip in with their comments as well

@williamweisel2176 okay sir, btw it was user error for this problem...had the meter on vdc and not vac.

First thing to do is to reset the mechanism circuit breaker on the left front of the power supply on the inside back door. See if gripper motor will then bring record back to the rack. If not, you will need to manually turn the knob on the gripper motor by reaching underneath the mech. It will be tedious to turn the knob so many times but you must get the gripper bow back over the magazine until you hear the click of the microswitch #1 in the back. Then reset the mech circuit breaker again. See if machine works then. If it selects another record and the same thing happens when it is ready to return to the rack, you probably have a shorted reverse relay in the bronze control box that sits under the mech. Reseat all four of the plastic molex connectors that go to this box just in case it is a loose connection. If no loose connection, I would join the Rockola Jukebox Club group on FB and post a video of what is happening. I and others can then try to walk you thru this. I hope you have a service manual. If not, order one on line (eBay or Victory Glass)

@@williamweisel2176 Thanks William. After manually turning the knob on the gripper motor it was still the same. Then I discovered a earth strap had dropped down and made contact on some wiring connections, tied that back up, pressed the reset button and it is now back up and running. Who would have thought one wire would drop down and cause the issue!

best venue for your problem is to join the Rockola Jukebox Club group on FB and then post a video of what your jukebox is NOT doing right. I will respond as well as others. I don't check my You Tube messages that often and unless it is a straight forward easy fix, videos and multiple replies are often necessary

the read out arm is easily removed......take off the nut on the end of the bolt that secures the read out arm to the main shaft. Remove the bolt and pry off the arm. Check continuity of both coils. Should be around 30-50 ohms each. Then bend the wipers slightly to ensure good contact with the read out circuit board before reattaching arm. If still no non hit side selections, go underneath and watch the A/B switch as you scan the magazine. Be sure it is going up and down. If not you need to service the alternating dawg underneath. Also reseat the molex connector that goes from the A/B switch assembly over to the bronze control box and the round pin bank.

Depends on your area. In western Pa, I sell these refurbished working as they should with a 30 day warranty for $695. And, yes, they all sell. But if I ask more, they just languish on FB marketplace. Working condition covers a wide range.......was it recently serviced and amp refurbished? If so, try to get $800-900. If it hasn't been serviced for 20 years and just happens to work, then you won't get as much. These 70's jukeboxes are good machines but don't command big bucks. Don't take less than $500 if it works fine and all the glass pieces are good. If it is in a basement and needs hauled out by the buyer, subtract $100.

best to join the FB Rockola Jukebox Club group...then post your problem/maybe a short video. I and others will try to help you

Thanks!

thanks for the kind words. Technically videos aren't that great......just trying to illustrate common problems and solutions. I did mix up the K4 and K7 relay once or twice in this video. Will try to be more careful going forward. Hopefully viewers will realize my error.

@@williamweisel2176 To err is human, all good!

look for a transformer rated at 3 amps with a 24 VAC tap. Connect the two wires that supply the 24 VAC to a 6 amp or higher silicon full wave bridge rectifier. AC leads should be marked. The other two leads will give off DC, one positive and one negative. Use the DC leads to check the gripper and magazine motors in these jukes.......and the 24 VAC to check the write in motor. Contact me on FB Rockola groups for specific questions or better yet, join the Rockola Jukebox Collector group and ask specific questions to all. In my last video today, I mentioned a current limiting bulb which is a good idea to use when testing any unknown load, be it a motor or an amplifier or a power supply.

@@williamweisel2176 I have an idea- Why cant I connect to the 30 v output from the power supply and connect to the relays directly? then start back tracking from the relay with the 30 volt circuit to see where the issue might be?

The 441 has a tube amplifier (even though it was 1969!) which I am not familiar with. All the other Rockolas from this era had transistorized amps which are less costly to revamp. Other than the common sense things like reseating all the tubes and being sure the turn table platter didn' t get dislodged from the idler wheel, I really wouldn't have much to offer. Sorry. See what others say

@@williamweisel2176 Thanks for the reply! After examining the unit further and touching the connections under the tone arm, I think that my be the issue. Last year, I installed a new cartridge and it was very difficult to make all the solder connections. I think I'll pursue this angle. Thanks again. Enjoy your videos.

Record immediately rejecting can be the #3 microswitch on the back cam not fully getting seated in it's divot. May need to remove the back door and watch this relay as the record sits down. continuity check may be needed as well. Also reseat the molex connectors that attach to the control box under the mech. Study sequence 26 in the manual for these circuits

Gotta look at the A/B switch assembly and the read out arm bronze spring steel contact to be sure it is clean and making contact. I covered read out problems in a recent video

@@williamweisel2176 all the contacts are clean and making good contact that was the first thing i checked. could you tell me where the a/b switch is? i can't figure out that part of it. thanks!!

I only buy and fix Rockolas 436-470. The newer Rockolas are not as easy to fix and I avoid them. Maybe post on the FB Rockola Jukebox Club group with your problem.

@@williamweisel2176 ah bummer. After some tests Ive found out the credit unit knows where the magazine is at, but it doesnt tell the magazine where to stop for the arm to kick in. Any thoughts on that?

Once i manually turn the arm, the magazine stops instantly and the credit unit displays the stopped number.

there is a spring under the tonearm. I would move it one notch in closer to the base to increase the tone arm pressure slightly. If this doesn't help, there is a spring steel "keeper spring" located to the back left of the tonearm base in the black cam. This is meant to slow the descent of the tonearm onto the record and if it is bent or broken, the tonearm skips across the record immediately upon landing.......

I'll try to help. Contact me on FB under William Weisel. We should be able to walk you through what needs done.

Actually just checked its a 47760 1a, I was going by the manual. Incidentally when it was working the mute relay doesn't work. - it appears to be missing a -33v line. It just goes to an empty connector, I see in the comments below this is not unusual if swapping out boards. I am tempted to connect it up?