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Yes. The build was a pain, stuff keeps breaking and it can only drift like crazy. I have tried fixing it for two weeks and then gave up and decided to make my own RC car.

There was a TAP toolchanger AFAIK, I don't have XOL for over a year anymore but I don't think a toolchanger for XOL is coming in the near future.

2S

@@iniqy thanks

Exactly

This video was 60K, maximum I went with ellis speed test was 80K with 2504's at 2A. IIRC My input shaper graphs recommended 25K X and 17K Y with 0% vibr.

24v or 48v?@@iniqy

Interesting, max amp for 2504AC is 1.75A. Did you had any issues with the motors?

@@Hajtosek48V. I have 2504AH. So high-temp can definitely go over 2.5A

@@iniqy The value you set in klipper is RMS, the value marked on the motor is max, so the actual max value you can set is 1.75

Yes mjolnir likes to touch in the front corners. You can solve loss of space by moving your bed a little to the back.

@@iniqy Ok thanks! I've looked into moving the bed, but space is very limited on a 250. I can defintly lower the front Z motors about 1.5 to 2cm that should help with the z- rod's getting in the way. Anyway, thanks, info on archetype is very hard to find.

@@davidm8293 I'm always happy to help! Did you put the front motors up-side down like me? That should solve the z-rod issue. Check out the armchair discord, there are many people with tridents and archetype there.

@@iniqy Yes discord, I should have checked there! No I haven't even got awd , I do have a lighter x gantry with cnc parts to compensate for tap. I've been thinking about it tho. But the modding just never stops , awd, 48V, then a UHF hotend, cpap for cooling... it goes on and on and on 😅

@@davidm8293 I have also been there. Haven't touched it since this video though. It works so it was time to use it. See my most recent videos if you need inspiration ;)

I need to get more up to speed for higher jumps.. Car is still unscathed after landing in every possible position. Mass > 3kg.

I never had DB, so I wouldn't know. For Dragon UHF you need RapidBurner though. But both toolheads are pretty similar and its more a matter of taste. The belt clamps on XOL are definitely better though. See my newer video for Archetype its much superior to XOL.

Its his design: github.com/CloakedWayne/ its still in closed beta though. Archetype belt clamps are actually really good. I've had slipping belts with XOL toolhead b4, but not with Archetype. Maybe your belts have previously been clamped flat. So you need new belts or take 10 min. to create tighter clips.

Siboor

Thanks, but its not my design. Its Archetype Mjolnir from Armchair Engineering on github.

Its fine with PLA. Although I don't understand people printing PLA with Vorons. I don't have XOL anymore though, if you want something really good get Archetype is my advice.

enough reasons to print pla on a voron.. i have the voron now cause it can print it all, one printer to do it and it was fun to build, ill still be printing pla for some parts and Model planes etc @@iniqy

just default 0.4mm nozzle, only increased accels/speed. And ofcourse EM/PA tuned for filament. See ellis printing guide.

It weighs 1.6 kg. The wheels have recently been replaced by metal rims. The rear wheels were on temporarily because this drift car broke a plastic rim before. There are so many parts on this complicated thing.. replacing something takes often more time than with robak.

Nice! Just the vz-hextrudort low cnc, its like 56 euro

@@iniqy All right, thanks man. So you say the dragon UHF is better than the Rapido? All the rave online seems to be about the Rapido UHF but I think I'll heed your advice on that. I do like that the rapido has a ceramic heater but the dragon has that Mosquito type heatbreak.

@@iniqy Do you have a link for a nozzle accellerometer? Couldn't find any on aliexpress. I will be converting the Troodon 2.0 to klipper.

@@sabahoudini Best one I think: US: provok3d.com/product/nozzle-adxl-board/ EU: lab4450.com/product/nozzle-adxl345/

@@iniqy Excellent, you are the man ! Thanks :D

No I'm not planning on another X-beam. I have MGN9H lying here but I'm not sure if I'm going to use it. I don't care about 500 accels more or less at this point. If I'm going to upgrade anything I try to improve print quality or prefer to put my money in an all-metal gantry.

@@iniqy Fair point. I'm under the impression that less moving mass will still improve quality at slower speeds because there will be less work needed for pressure advance and input shaping. Then again a higher weight part will probably vibrate less because the mass will filter out higher frequency vibrations. I think for these printers the most important thing for print quality is the extruder and with the bondtech gears you have I think that's probably the best we can do at this point. It's possible that a smooth idler is better than dual gears too.

@@sabahoudini Well you are partly right. The fastest printer is also the best printer. More mass is always bad, but rigidity is more important than mass. This is why those lightweight beams are worse than rigid extrusion which does not flex. About extruders, they are super important. I have vz-hextrudort on this machine and RIDGA sherpa mini on other, cnc vz-hex beats it by a mile though, I plan on getting a second one.

@@iniqy Oh cool. I've been looking at those new vz-hextrudort-low with the twirl gears. Is that the one you have? Surface quality on the video at least seems better than anything I've seen. Yeah I think maybe the regular extrusions are better but still the MGN9 will save like 140 grams and that should not be less stiff.

@@sabahoudini Yep from mellow on ali. Yeah there is no specific reason not to go with MGN9H. Also new XOL toolhead has amazing new belt system, so it's very easy to swap X-rails.

4K. With XOL2 I got 8K mzv with 0 vibrations

@@iniqy Oh that's great

You print at how many mm/s ?

@@sebgln 400mm/s. Going to install a UHF mount hope to get at least 500mm/s

@@iniqy UHF mount ? (Rapido UHF ?) You go at 400 mm/s at stock just with XOL2 ? That's good. Thanks

You are right. It was mainly belts. I had not adjusted them anyway whatsoever. Just put the toolhead on and went printing. This is a follow-up: www.reddit.com/r/VORONDesign/comments/132tzf1/comparison_adxl_on_nozzle_vs_can_board/ . I will rebuild gantry after my current build, time for all parts to be reprinted after pushing 15km of filament I guess.

10 tooth for LDO/Moons' they are more than powerful enough

Rapido HF. Revo can't print this fast. Also I upgraded later to Dragon UHF. Without melt zone extender. It's superior to all other options available for Voron. NF Crazy and Dragon UHF Mini mounts are the same. Also more 3D video's coming up, a new one about new toolhead will be coming as well.

I changed my build volume [how far toolhead can move before hitting left/front side]. So the coordinates of my nozzle probe changed. I removed the nozzle probe and used klicky as z-probe immediately after. Or the newer TAP is even better.

I'm still not sure what I should use tap or kicky with auto z height.

@@martinklaus I missed this but what did you go with? I use klicky pcb btw, its like 100 times better than klicky [and tap]

100% pure ABS (ofcourse)

​@@iniqyI love abs

My prints came out pretty good. But not gonna lie it was a pain in the ass, took weeks.. Also reprinting all my colored parts because they come out much nicer on a textured PEI sheet.

Finished my voron essential kit in a week on ender 3 pro. No enclosure, no print failures. I used anti-draft barrier in cura and my ender was setup quite well.