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I've just bought an exxos TOS switcher so this video is just what I needed - good job. The only thing you neglected was to explain was the jumpers on the STe mobo but I'm sure this will be explained in several places elsewhere. Did you not wire up an external switch?

Atari guy invents the Atari version of a DF0/DF1 switcher, Amiga 500 owners have been using for decades. ... :) But cheeky comments aside, great explanation and Atari adaptation of the concept. I want to do the same to my ST and my STE later, I'll surely come back to this video then.

I have an STE so I guess this might be a little different, I have all the other parts.

Thanx vor showing

I think this is the tidiest A/B switching method I've seen. Nice!

I'm hoping to reinstall my physical floppy to work with my gotek a/b, fitting the 34pin floppy connector , I'm thinking a good starting point?

So did you ever design the PCB to take all of this and nake it tidy? Like another commenter i could see this being useful to connect ST to KVM controlling multiple machibes

Awesome

Brilliant video! It is pretty challenging removing through hole parts at the best of times, never name corroded!! It's best (and easiest) to remove that bottom 470ohm resistor and fit the diode there! That resistor was only needed by the nicad! I think removing the 12v is a good idea, I often do that too - where I see it! I don't like the idea of the diode on the 12v rail shorting.... Bye bye customs lol. I too do not understand why they connected both 12v and 5v in that way! And how it seems to end up providing around 5v on the power pin of the RTC. My understanding is the lower voltage supply would be "out of circuit", as its diode is reverse biased - ie. Anode at 5V, cathode at 12v (via that 470 ohm on 12v side). Therefore, logically you might expect 12v to get to the RTC and battery... The RTC are rated from 1V up to around 7V, so the plot thickens lol... There must be some kind of voltage drop occuring between 12v and 5v that I cannot see (via the 2 resistors and diodes in that arrangement), maybe 12v - 5v = 7v... And under load it drops to 5v?!? But that doesnt fit with what I know =| With regards to it not ticking over when you removed that 12v (via the resistor) - I think you must have missed a connection elsewhere... My understanding is the RTC will work down to around 1V!!! And there's a pin somewhere which is driven to around 5v which brings it out of sleep mode. So when powered by PSU, something is clearly not getting a voltage when that resistor is removed on the 12v side. When powered (and not charging, because you stopped its ability to charge), the 5v should more or less go via a diode drop to the main supply pin of that IC - the charge circuit is isolated from the RTC and should go only to the battery (in this case not needed to go to battery as your battery just provides a one way supply when the power is off). Maybe your schematic is wrong or missing something?

I am unable to find anywhere that will sell me a pair of 1.04 UK TOS ROMS, tried Exxos, no Joy. Where do you suggest I try?

Thanks for sharing this. I have 3 Atari ST's I want to connect to a KVM Switch and this appears to be a viable solution to getting that project done. It's all about space saving for me. I have Amiga's installed in a server rack and I plan on doing the same with the ST's but they are so damn long you can't slide them in from the front but can slide them in from the side of a rack.

Keep this series going! Luving the restoration!

I was screaming at the screen! 😀

The first time you plugged in the fixed adapter. It sounded like it worked. It sounded like you adjusted the flight path of that jet instead of the pointer😁

As usual a good video. haven't seen you on TH-cam for a while, good to hear your voice again.

How fast would it be with a pi5?

Falcon was the only ST I really wanted, and almost bought one just as Atari kicked it off the edge of the cliff.

This is identical to Pro'sKit SS-331, it's just different sticker from the back and different color.

cut the solder braid into 1cm size and add alot more flux, this way those holes that dont clear will clear alot easier

Very nice work! Top notch drag soldering!

Gonna put a build of one of these together soon. Can't wait. It will be fun experimenting and watching the progress. I've always wanted to do what I could to squeeze even more performance out of my STe, since I will never afford a Falcon lol.

Having spent 20 years as a full-time auto-repair bench tech working with Hakko and Aoyue desoldering stations, I can tell you from experience that you should remove the coiled spring from inside the glass tube, find yourself a slightly larger filter that will friction fit inside the glass tube and stay in place, and use a wad of medium-coarse steel wool inside the tube to catch the solder dross and cool off the flux fumes so that it condenses inside the tube instead of in the hose or the external filter, not to mention the suction pump. It will work better and be easier to clean this way.

The 7-pin connector is a GX16 aviation connecter. Higher quality than the molded-on DIN plug used by many soldering stations, and reusable if you ever need to change/replace the cable the cable. Typically you require 7 pins, because you need 2 wires for heat, 2 wires for the thermocouple temperature sensing, 2 wires to trigger the pump, and one wire to ground the tip. Aoyue and Atten also use this type of connector, even on their soldering stations that only require 5 wires to the wand.

With your British standard plug (even visibly connected while measuring continuity), why would you need to solder an in-line fuse to the live side? That seemed a whole lot redundant to me.

Did my military service with an Atari ST guy. We met up at his place one weekend and he showed me stuff from the ST scene. I was blown away. The Atari ST demo scene was very similar to the c64 scene, were everyone was doing these weird video chip bugs. Meanwhile the Amiga scene was boring old protracker music, bouncing balls and copper lists. This must've been back in 1992 I think. Coming from the Commodore world, I think it's kind of cool and wierd that you plug your ST directly to the mains. :)

I fitted my Amiga 500 into a tower and used a conventional power supply. Never had any issues. Mind you, this was done 20 years ago and my Amiga is still in the loft 😂

So this is the same PSU you used in the "amigaproofing" video, right?

Nice work! And I absolutely agree with you that Amiga music is crap. I "upgraded" my C64 to an A500 in 1989, and everything was better except for the audio (and the demo scene, c64 scene > amiga scene). 8 bit tracker music, what can I say. I'm glad that's not really a thing anymore. c64 = 1MHz DAC (arguably), Amiga = 16KHz DAC (because of Paula DMA). How does the boost converter provide -12V though? In is +12V and GND I presume? So you boost that to something like +24V and GND, but how do you bias that to make it -12V +12V, while preserving +5V and GND? Using op amps? And what's the chopping frequency of the switch? I think a couple of low noise caps with different order of magnitude Farads to GND should be fine to tame ripple. The DAC on the Amiga is garbage anyway. I'm not really proficient in electronics, but the 25Hz you see, couldn't that just be the -1 harmonic of 50Hz? You can get subharmonics from nonlinear stuff like switching. And 25Hz noise on the rail could definitely mess with the DAC depending on the magnitude. Could give you noise at 50Hz, 75Hz, 100Hz etc. In the end though, lipstick on a pig. I bet your solution is empirically better than what a bog standard A500 can do with the Commodore PSU, audio wise. Sorry for the essay! This is just a topic I love to geek about. :D

as usual a great video. thanks David.

I remember when I was debugging a early PSU on a resistive load and saw 400hz spikes. Took me ages to figure out it was coming from the fan I was using to cool the dummy load :)

You say a polarity inversion is rare in the UK, but I happened upon this youtube video a couple of weeks ago. It's an electrician relating how he found the whole house's polarity inverted after a smart meter had been fitted by the electricity company -- quite terrifying… th-cam.com/video/loyUVB7zKhw/w-d-xo.html

I've just watched a couple minutes and LOVE the idea of this. I have too many random PSU's laying around because I want to run my 520ST one day and then one of my Amigas the next. Maybe I could adapt one of the PSU's I built for my Amigas to the 520ST....that might be easier since the Amiga PSU already has all the needed voltages....hmmmm

Really kool Idea really want an hdmi output...why not use a gpio ribbon cable to place the rpi over to the right more and use some pcb rubber feet on the pi?

Any updates?

Warming up before brand NEW accelerator for mega ste "by BW" ;-) ????

Are you going to do any other tests ? Eg. No second Price if this game works on booster.

Fantastic joined movie even if there are some frames shifted +/-1 or 2 like in 2:12.

0:03 - Is Alt-RAM TT-RAM ? Can 68000 access above 16MB ?

I have an old creative microsystems 16MHz board from 1989 for my STFM, it has space for a blitter and FPU. Right now I'm trying to get the pistorm working without success. Unfortunately during testing I broke a pin off the old accelerator I'll have to fix. I would like to find an alt ram add on. I have seen something called a storm (thunder and lightning also) , but it's in German and I can't find much on it.

10:04 - NICE !!!

Was not enought 40 wires kable for connect 2x HDD to Falcon030 like was used in PC? I had got F030 with HDD 3,5 inch and I connected 2x HDD eg for copying.

Good work as usual 👍🏻

Hi it's Eric ... Are you on the Atari ST group in Facebook ?

oooh! but I'm still waiting for the TurboPower line. Seriously though, awesome work!

Great progress!!! I might have to swap out my basic 16Mhz CPU mod for this when its available!

I have the same one with its hard drive. It's just one of my Atari computers. I also own a TT, MegaSt4, SLM605, 1040stf, 520 stf. Portfolio, 800xl, 600xl, 130xe. ;p

I "think" you can use "Cherry Style" stabilizers for the space bar. Don't quote me on that tho.

Have you played Atari today ;) :P

Nice Video. I actually prefer the Mega case over the Mega STE Case. I wish they made a STE in Mega Case, with provision for a second floppy or 3.5" HDD next to the floppy drive. As for the keyboard, just keep pressing the keys as they should start working again.

Digidesign of Pro Tools fame, The industry Standard of the day. Awesome find! I don’t think I would want a Mega if that expansion was empty now 🥹 as a comment said, please replicate. Hopefully it goes to someone who can do the lords work.