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Great suggestion thank you

Next part should be uploaded soon!

I’m nearly done editing it, I’ve been so busy!

Thank you

Since this video I have swapped to actual spray gun automotive gloss and it works even better! But the 2k cans are great! Gloss black is the best base coat for nearly all metallic paints or finishes.

Thank you! And actually, yes! Life has been crazy but the next part is nearly done being edited and should be uploaded soon!

Definitely depends on head size but also the model and who made the model, because they all come in differing scales. I used .6mm nozzle and I like to do 3 walls. Very tough. I believe it was around 15% infill on this project.

@galaxyBuilt i have the k1 max am not trying to.miss with it yet got it for my bday gift to my self . I got the flies off Galactic armory, seeing how good his files are coming out. Just wish my k1 max was a bit bigger

Any time! Thank you!

It’s a great way to go! Depending on the project I 3d print a master so I can mold and cast it as well

That’s great to hear!!

I almost always use PLA+ filament for my cosplay!

Thank you so much!!

You are correct. Couldn’t get it to fit on the other side the way the model was made unfortunately

That’s great advice! Thank you!

Thank you so much! There’s a lot of newer machines now that I would recommend over the CR-10. If you’re wanting a huge printer the Elegoo Neptune Max can’t be beat for the price. But the Elegoo Neptune Pro would be a great option as well. When it comes to cosplay, it’s important to pay attention to build volume when shopping for printers.

😂

Love this trend!

If it’s armor you’re referring to, there’s such a thin bit of material that after connecting it could easily break again. I would recommend gluing the seem, possibly welding the inside, and definitely using fiberglass resin and cloth to make the back stronger to avoid it snapping again.

Perfect! lol

It’s probably a good idea for extra strength! I didn’t do it on the smaller pieces of this armor though, because I didn’t want to add to the thickness of the back of the pieces. Also, I had already painted them when I finally got around to this step, so I didn’t want to have to sand. But it’s a great idea!

True! The curing resin is an exothermic reaction. However, in my experience it’s not a hot enough reaction to warp prints.

Thank you so much!

Thanks so much!

I can’t remember for sure what tape. Was just cheap masking tape. Wouldn’t recommend delicate surface tape as it may not pull the paint off properly. The froggy green tape works pretty well!

Thank you so much!! Really try to provide everything you need.

Thank you so much!

True! Prusa Slicer is many people's go-to file slicer.

Are you printing it with enough walls and infill? Doesn’t take much to keep it from caving in. I would say that if you’re concerned you can definitely coat the inside or hidden parts with fiberglass resin. It works quite well to add strength. I highly recommend doing this for seam lines between pieces for sure

Thank you for getting back to me, I printed a mando helmet at 13% and added resin on the inside and it holds up well. I also used some kind of filler that hardens and sanded on the outside but just wondered if there were any other tips or tricks I didn't know about haha

Thats awesome! @@CamoKiid

Oh I know! I have had so much going on! I will be finishing this series and should be uploading another part quite soon!

Absolutely! Thank you for the feedback!

So i preferred not to do decals because its so obvious and they dont weather well. I made stencils myself on a cricut and cut them out for painting. Im aware there aren't really stencils available on Etsy so I am looking at filling that void myself, but I'm not sure I will have a store setup in time for it to serve you on this project. Do you have access to a cricut?

@@GalaxyBuilt unfortunately not. Are they expensive?

They can be yeah, but the cricut joy isnt too expensive, however it would be too costly to buy just for a project like this in my opinion. I would love to sell it to you. Can you hit me up on instagram DM's and I can sell you the stencils even tho I dont have the store setup yet? @@colinmsmall

Sure sounds good I’ll message you there

Nail polish remover! What did I say? Lol oops. Yeah I’m using nail polish remover that is 100% acetone

@GalaxyBuilt you might have said "remover " and I missed it. I kept hearing nail polish. 😃

It definitely varies between different paints but I would advise at least waiting overnight for the paint to dry before putting tape on it. If the paint is not set, masking tape will ruin the paint job when you go to peel it off.

@@GalaxyBuiltThank you for such a quick reply! I waited overnight to take the dome and front. I just did the cheeks and back and then I wondered what do I do now lol. Sounds like waiting overnight is a safe bet, I will do that. I wasn’t sure if waiting too long would hurt when pulling it off.

I did not have any issues with how long paint stayed on the piece as long as the paint had enough time to set before the tape! @@colinmsmall

I made my emblems by taking png’s of the symbols and cutting them on a cricut to make stencils for painting them on. I’ll have a detailed breakdown once I am able to continue editing further parts of this series!

@@GalaxyBuilt oh that’s great. I didn’t realize you planned on uploading more videos for the build. I look forward to them. Thank you for creating the content and thank you for being so supportive.

There’s a lot of good ones for different uses. The one that worked the best for a correctly sized head scan that was clean enough to use was an app called EM3D. I hope that helps!

@@GalaxyBuilt Thank you!

I have not has issues with this particular fiberglass resin getting too warm for 3d prints. However, I've used Epoxamite 101 in the past and noticed that if I had the correct amount of hardener or a little bit too much, the reaction would be too fast and "smoke" as it dried. Using a slightly lower ratio of hardener helped, just took longer to set. I hope that helps!

Usually I have either 80 or 120 grit on my sander. For the edges around the visor and along the bottom ridge I used a bit of the soldering iron but I also used a file as well. Filing those edges is a pretty easy way to smooth them

That sounds super exciting! Hopefully I’ll be able to get more parts of this video series edited and uploaded soon!

@@GalaxyBuilt That would be really appreciated as I find your videos to be the best ones I have seen and certainly the most thorough and detailed. I know this takes a lot of effort and time but I know you are helping many others including myself. I printed a book of boba fett version of the helmet and I think it is mostly the same as yours with just some of the damage areas in different spots… there may be more but I think I’m going to just follow what you did and relocate some of the damage marks. Unless you have any suggestions on making it more screen accurate to book of boba fett etc.. and again, thank you for doing all of this!

Definitely different damage and book of boba doesnt really have the texture either! Check out my bro Alexander Makes on Instagram he is @alexander_makes_ and he would be a great person to message for specific color choices and finishing techniques! Most colors should be the same as mine but the BOBF version does not have the texture! @@colinmsmall

@@GalaxyBuilt I reached out to him. Thank you for the help! His stuff looks amazing. Do you still prefer using the resin method for smoothing? I’m thinking of trying it.. never used resin and I understand it is pretty toxic.. I’m assuming it should work the same on PETG as PLA.

I do still use the resin quite often yes!! But lately I have also been watering down bondo glazing and spot putty with acetone to brush it on and I like that a lot too. You could also use a product called XTC 3D and its quite good for it as well!@@colinmsmall

Thank YOU!

Thank you!

There’s many great places and vendors making accurate boba fett soft parts. I bought mine from sky costume and did some minor modifications. That video will be released eventually. I am quite busy at the moment but I plan to eventually release my tutorial for the soft parts

That’s a great idea! I love me some Indiana Jones!

@@GalaxyBuilt bud, I’m such an Indiana Jones fan myself too! Glad to know there are a few of us out there! :)

@@quattron-1126 Indy really has some of the greatest props!

@@GalaxyBuilt oh yeah, I got me the outfit too. I bought the original hat brought from London… yikes …! Expensive !

@@quattron-1126 That is awesome!

Thank you so much!

I think that’s a great idea! I love when models use alignment pins. Im not an expert 3d modeler yet to be able to modify files too much, but when I can I love when there’s a good way to align parts.

I am so glad you found it helpful! Good luck with the sword it’s going to be awesome!

Montana black melon yellow. It’s a little bit light and bright to be honest. They have some others that are a bit darker and slightly more orange. But the weathering I did darkened it enough I think. Hope that helps!

@@GalaxyBuilt hey thanks for the reply! I’ve been following your guide for weathering and the different paints and have enjoyed using the Montana black stuff you’ve suggested. The main green especially for the armor and helmet, so far it’s turning out great! Thank you for your help!

@@GalaxyBuilt what do you also use for boba symbol on his chest? Color wise

Thank you! So I bought the Sky Costumes version of Boba Fett and took their armor off. Underneath I literally have a plain black sweatshirt and I am just wearing a black infinity scarf around my neck. Its cheap but I think it works!

So I used several. The one that made my whole head the best and properly stitched the back and dealt with artifacts and kept the accurate scaling was EM3D. I will say tho, that for like the face or sharper detailing ScandyPro is quite good. But none of the apps did the whole head as well as EM3D.