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This device is actually a motor, not a generator, so it won't generate any power. It relies on electromagnets in the field windings. However, if these were replaced with permanent magnets, it might generate a minuscule amount of voltage. The inefficiency of the design stems from the weak coupling between the rotor and the field windings.

Thank you. I really enjoyed re-imagining this project from the 20's. LED's are really usefull devices and will switch at incredible speeds without hysteresis or thermal lag like an incandescent lamp. I have used 1 watt leds in a optical transmitter. Its an FM transmitter and switches the led at 25khz and modulates them with audio. With a few 6" pound-shop magnifying glass lenses in front of the transmitter and receiver I can get 10 miles line of sight!There is a video on this channel of the project .

Hi , The motor draws around 1 amp when running dipping at a full speed to around 0.75A .

@@stevewardguitars1661 Thank You. Intresting how motors draw less current at speed.🙂

@@benvandermerwe2359Motors in general can draw 10 X their normal running current at startup. This is due to the increase in inductive reactance as the motor spins up to full speed. When stationary only the relatively low resistance of the stator and armature coils is in opposition to the supplied voltage. At this point the current is high. As the speed increases the inductive reactance of the spinning motor also increases and so does therefore the opposition to applied voltage. The current then drops with the increased resistance. More current will be drawn however when the motor is under load.

John, your comment truly made my day! It's great to connect with someone who shares my love for Popular Mechanics, Popular Science, and electronics magazines. Here is the link to the book archive.org/details/dli.ministry.12264/page/3/mode/2up and the incredible resource at worldradiohistory.com- www.worldradiohistory.com/index.htm its a goldmine for enthusiasts like us. Thanks again for your support and for adding to the conversation.

Hi Ted, Thank you for the comments. There is a link to an online copy of the book in the text /write up at the top of the page under the video.

Thank you I appreciate the feedback .

Thank you for the comments. It was a nice project and kept me amused for several days . I experimented obsessively when i was in school from some old text books. My favorite gadgets involved high voltages. I had access to old magnetos and ignition coils. I used vibrators from old radio sets in series with an ignition coil with a 0.1uf cap across the vibrator. This gave me continuous 1 1/2" sparks. I built a coherer in a old fuse with fillings from a nickle coin. I also built an oscilloscope with an old black and white tv tube. I used a eht rectifier valve running off a 1 1/2 volt battery to rectifier the ignition coil and feed the eht to the tube. I did not no how to build a saw-tooth timbase so instead fed the scan coils for the y axis with a 12 volt AC . The X axis was fed from a simple valve amp I had built from the fun with radio book by Gilbeert and Davy. It gave a great display even if the trace was a symmetrical representation of the input waveform. I dread to think how much X ray radiation I must of exposed myself to at that time. I found the link to the book you mentioned on the world radio history website. Thank you again. www.worldradiohistory.com/BOOKSHELF-ARH/Technology/Author-Groups/A.P.Morgan/The-Boy-Electrician-Morgan.pdfwww.worldradiohistory.com/BOOKSHELF-ARH/Technology/Author-Groups/A.P.Morgan/The-Boy-Electrician-Morgan.pdf

@@stevewardguitars1661 Gee - you just described a lot of the things I did! ignitions coils and oscilloscope TV included! And a coherer - wow - so few people even know about that early RF detector! By the way - you probably dont have much to worry about regarding X-Rays- the 18kv or so on BW tv tubes is very low energy and the xrays are very "soft" meaning easily absorbed. Most likely the lead glass in the CRT absorbed most of the X-Rays. Color CRTs used up to 35kV and were worse, but it was the early color sets that had a triode that regulated the HV by shunting it to ground. The were really good X-ray tubes!

Thank you for your comment. I really appreciate the feedback. I have been working on a hot rod deville this morning same issues.

@@stevewardguitars1661 As much as I like the hot rod, I have finally given up on trying to use the drive channels, so I just bought a Mesa Boogie Fillmore 25. So I no longer need to keep searching for way to improve the hot rod.

Thankyou

I thank you for your comments. I totally agree the modern amps are becoming unserviceable beyond a certain point. Fender will not supply spare parts out of warrantee period.

Thank you I appreciate the feedback.

Apologies for any misunderstanding; I graciously acknowledge my error. The distinction seems to be a matter of semantics-should we classify it as vintage or antique? Given that the book exceeds a century in age, it likely falls into the antique category. I've included a link to the aforementioned vintage/antique text for your enjoyment. I eagerly anticipate the possibility of seeing your rendition of the model motor, should you choose to accept the basic electro - mechanical challenge. archive.org/details/dli.ministry.12264/page/105/mode/2up

Thank you. I have made lots of small model motors over the years . The most basic when I was in school with cotton reels and drawing pins and a horseshoe magnet. I was presented with this book some 50 years latter and just had to make another. There is an interesting timeline of motor development on wiki. It lists the big names in science and their respective contributions. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Timeline_of_the_electric_motor

L.E.D's unlike incandescent lamps have no thermal lag or persistence.They can be switched on and off at several hundred kilohertz with ease. The only near competition comes from neon or zeon tubes. I built an frequency modulated optical transmitter using leds and photo-diodes. The carrier frequency was around 30 khz. I made a rough video of this project somewhere on my page. In clear line of sight the range was several miles .

Thank you Hendrik, I really appreciate the kind comments. I have always enjoyed building electronic and electromechanical projects. Over the years I have designed and built quite an eclectic range of devices. Most of my interests have been science and radio based. I took my amateur radio licence back in 1980 after many years of building radios and transmitters it was finally great to talk to like minded enthusiasts. I wonder if you have seen my video of the mechanical television? This was my all time favourite project it encompassed all the disciplines of electronics, mechanics, audio and radio.

@@stevewardguitars1661 A mechanical television? NO sir - I am subscribing and I will have a look. The closest I ever came to a radio was the CB in my car back in the 70's. Your work is amazing and it deserves many , many views. Greetings from Africa. A few years ago I bought a tube amplifier. It is still in the box as honestly I do not know how to put together a complete audio system. I have spent 50 years in IT so that I know well. I have so many kits of electronic projects lying around including Raspberry but I do not have the electronic background to really do much.

Kids shouldn't be near mercury. One mistake (which kids will make) and it's game over.

well Once upon a time in the west lewis and Clark mapped out the western territories and they relied heavily on a good dose of mercury to relive not only constipation but also to cure syphilis. Try telling that the the youngsters of today...

Mercurials were the wonder drug of their day, bag balm had it up until recently, too bad the cure was worse than the ailment.

Thank you for the kind comment.

IMHO old science book somehow explains things betters. When I was in high school in 2000-2004 my grandfather gave me his old physics book published just after WWII. My school book obviously contains more information about things discovered after old one was published, but in chapters about the same things old one was way better written.

Not surprised.@@stanisawszczypua9076

@@stanisawszczypua9076I believe that In modern teaching of science, there appears to be a trend of side-lining old fundamental electrical principles in favour of newer, more applied approaches, potentially reflecting a shift towards emphasizing practical applications over theoretical foundations.

some of the other designs were various solenoids, galvanometer type instruments, a voltmeter made out of a compass and a shocking coil!

HI I have found a link to an online copy of the book which may be of interest . archive.org/details/dli.ministry.12264/page/3/mode/2up

HI Mark, There are no metal roller bearings, however the brass shaft runs in nylon bearings fixed to the supports. It did keep me amused for a day or two re-imagining the text from the old book. Some of the books projects included making your own primary cells. Honestly the idea that school children of the present era could be entrusted with conc sulfuric acid and a 1/2 pint of mercury for some of the projects is horrifying.

HI, There are many ways to wire in the new circuit board by cutting wires etc. I have left this open to the individual user to sort for themselves should they wish to go down this route. A simple DPDT mini toggle switch and a new hole in the front panel would be a simpler option. I am still very annoyed with Fender customer services and support. There is no support out of warranty period! The resistor is a 1/4 watt 5k6. This gives a current draw for the photomos relay of around 1.5ma for reliable switching. The RDS on of the fet relay at this level is around 25 Ohms. The current draw of the preamp is 5ma so only 0.125volts is lost across the relay. This is insignificant in relation to the variance in the battery voltages. The wire gauge is really not important . I used stranded 7/02 thin hookup wire. Regards Steve

@@stevewardguitars1661 thank thank you. And was thinking the exact same thing about adding a DPDT switch. I've been modding the hell out the bass for about 4 months now and every single part on it seems to be non standard Right down to the neck plate and control plate and pick guard , pickup covers etc if you want them in any other colour. I love the bass but the electronics pcb is probably the most frustrating part. Since I have to match drill a hole for the active toggle anyways, I might as well just do a second hole and use the switch option. This relay seems to be difficult to get outside of quantities of 10 in my region, plus the lead time is over a month even at that. Thank you for your reply so Quickly and just wanted to thank you again for figuring out a solution for this. Assuming the DPDT switch has 6 contacts like the other switch, would I just be intercepting the red black and white from the output pcb connector to the new 2nd toggle, and connect the black and Green wire to the GND LUG? Using a pure tone gold plated stereo jack. Looks the same as the switch craft but fits in the square hole without enlarging. Thanks again for any help, I'm not as good at electrical mods as yourself but I'm very competent at soldering and following circuit diagrams. Would have been fun to build your circus for the auto switching but i think having an extra hole for a toggle might even allow for some extra options with functionality based on which type of toggle I end up going with. Was almost tempted to swap out the entire preamp at one point lol. I think you'd love all the mods I've been doing. I call it my Golden Ratio Jazz Bass Project. It's coming along nicely. The only part that is literally impossible to get would be a gold truss rod wheel, even though it even has a fender p/n but they won't sell it to me. Might as well take the wheel off and just spray paint it. Btw, greasy groove is the only shop i found that actually had a template for making custom pick guards. Excited to get em.

@@As5Hat The bass belonged to a customer. I no longer have anyway of checking the wiring for you. I think since all the switching was done at the original multipole jack , it would be a matter of just linking the jack switching leads to the switch. A standard mono jack would then be fine. It should be easy to trace the battery + & - connections to the original jack . These are then simply grounded by the new switch. If you look at my schematic of the original jack socket it should make things a little clearer. A multimeter which would indicate where the + & - battery supply's are on the jack . These just need to be grounded via the dpdt switch . Hope this makes some sense. I apologise for not being able to assist further. Regards Steve

HI Thank you for the comments. I agree with everything you said in you first post. Honestly fender dont care and just want to sell new product. Over the past few years I have contacted fender many times for support and parts. This has always been a very disappointing and disillusioning experience. You cant buy a multi switch stereo plastic block jack specific to the fender Elite series active 5 string Bass. This is a switching jack with two individual sets of switch contacts for an 18 volt split rail(two battery) type preamp. This part is warranty period only! They are just not available from any of the normal suppliers. I built a micro solid state relay switch circuit to use a standard switch craft stereo jack. I published the circuit and a video on this subject. The flagship Fender deluxe reverb reissue mains transform is also warranty period only. This is not like the original deluxe reverb.Its a lay down transformer and the Hammond type just wont fit. The Amp has a fusible resistor in the bias circuit!! Why? I have seen two of these amps where the fuse has blown leaving no bias. There is no ht fuse and the valves run red hot. Then the transformer overheats and the sealed internal non reset-able thermal fuse blows and that's curtains for the amp. When asked for a spare the response was warranty period only. I sourced a similar but not identical transformer from TAD, however the voltages were different and some mods were needed for the bias circuit. I work on lots of amps but much prefer the old marshal's and fenders. The Vero pins are freely available from many suppliers. Originally designed for the vero strip board they come in usefull for repairing damaged track holes on pcb. The quality varies and some cheap variants have a smooth shank which wont grip in the board. The best ones albeit more expensive are the original vero make. Have a look at the link below. Regards Steve uk.rs-online.com/web/p/terminal-posts/6319574 www.wardguitars.co.uk/ facebook.com/stevewardguitars

@stevewardguitars1661 Yeah, I agree it's all about the money. I sold a Mesa dc3 a few years back and bought a hand wired 70s traynor with eyelet board , full of mustard caps and mullard tubes for 530 bucks. I've never been interested in modern amps since. A year ago, I started building amps , the ones I could never afford to buy. I'm about to start my 8th build soon. I think the best value in new amps is Ceriatone! Reasonably priced hand wired. I don't do any service work as of yet. But I will definitely remember those pins !

Thank you, I really appreciate you taking time to comment.

Dear Marjan Rozman, I trust this message finds you in good health. I wanted to provide some insight regarding the V.L.F. receiver video. The intriguing sounds in the video are indeed a result of spherics generated by the multitude of lightning storms occurring simultaneously worldwide at any given moment. While I understand that it may initially sound like the crackling of frying bacon, these sounds are, in fact, a natural manifestation of Earth's activity. If you have a moment to explore the links provided in the video description, you will find a comprehensive explanation of this phenomenon. It's a captivating field of study within earth science that is still relatively uncharted. Notably, the VLF band serves as a crucial channel for military submarine communications. Additionally, the H.A.R.P. (High-Frequency Active Auroral Research Program) in Alaska is engaged in various studies, including VLF communications. I hope this information sheds light on the subject, and I encourage you to delve deeper into this fascinating realm of knowledge. Warm regards, Steve

Thank you

Hi Ron, in this instance I bought the switch from modulusamplification.com/. They also supplied the lay down type transformer. Marshall also sell the the switches but sadly not the transformer. You will have to enlarge the hole a few mm. I used a stepped cone cutter on my drill. The original mounting holes will need to be slightly elongated with a needle file to take the wider bolt fixing centres. The switch has no limit stop and will rotate 360 deg in operation. Be careful to note the correct wire position with regard to the impedance. Wiring for the 50 watt model 4 Ohm, green = 8 ohms, gray = 16 ohms and orange = common/ ground Regards Steve

@@stevewardguitars1661 Great thanks for that info.

Hi Stig, thank you so much for your constructive comment. I sincerely apologise for the poor quality of the audio recording. it was very difficult to carry all of the equipment in my small backpack including the 8ft aerial mast, receiver, headphones, headphone extension cable, earth ground spike, my lunch and flask of tea whilst riding a motorcycle. A small digital recorder would have been ideal but I ran out of space. This was the first trial run of the receiver. The fact that the receiver is so sensitive to electrical interference from overhead power cables means that the test could only be carried out in a remote windy mountain location. The recording was made with my mobile phone which obviously has limitations. The point of the video was to stimulate interest in the VLF spectrum and the construction of the homemade receiver. All the details for the NASA inspire project can be found in the text below the video, should you wish to build one yourself. I again apologise for the poor audio recording, I shall now look at your videos for comparative reference with great interest. Kind regards Steve

@@stevewardguitars1661 Thanks for the post, very interesting, have a pdf with a rather old description on how to build one of these receivers, and I have a plan ready how to kill interference from the grid.

@@stighenningjohansen Hey Stig you seem to have totally missed I posted all the links to the schematics from N.A.S.A and other resources in the text below the video. I admit that using a phone or I pad or android devices which I hate seem not to show the info.Have a look at the text under the video for all the links via a P.C. Good luck its a great design. be careful with the layout instability will occur due to the very high input impedance and sensitivity . I built the circuit on stripboard but used ground plane techniques and screens to stop the instability problem.