วีดีโอ

@@Rayan-rw3gt the Panasonic fans in that range are typically 4” diameter.

@ should i use flex pipe? or rigid? does it have to be insulated

@ my hood vent in the roof is full of water drips and condensation. how can i get rid of this?

@ 1) make sure it’s air tight where it passes through the attic 2) ensure it has a damper at the roof termination, 3) adamper at the hood is helpful too. If this doesn’t solve the issue, insulate the pipe in the attic.

@@Rayan-rw3gt rigid is best for as much of the run as possible. You can transition to flex at the vent cap. Shouldn’t have to insulate it but if it’s running through the exposed attic like your range hood, that would be a good idea.

@@stevenporter7969 Full brick veneer would typically have an air gap between the brick veneer and the sheathing allowing for drainage with proper flashing and weep holes at the bottom of the wall but above grade. Products like mortar net can help the weeps stay open at the bottom of the wall. Adhered masonry products like synthetic stone, stucco, and thin brick would all need a rainscreen for drainage behind them as demonstrated in this video.

@@stonebody I’ve used PVC before to provide a low static smooth vent pipe, but never less than 4”

Thanks for your input

@@mikemojica I’ve seen it many times!

We've used these walls for 22 years and have never experience a leak at a joint. The sealant is polyurethane which does not break down over time if protected from UV exposure. The lifetime warranty provided by Superior Walls is a testament to the function of this system and the quality of the sealant.

If the manufacturer goes out of business, the warranty may or may not be backed, depending on how they went out of business and whether they provided a reserve fund for warranty support. This manufacturer has been in business since 1981 with numerous locations around the US.

No - we are in South Carolina. The original Addison Homes!

@@charliewheeler725 great question - bridging isn’t typically required with i-joists. Being an engineered product, I-joists don’t bow, twist, or cup. “Squash blocks” of perpendicular I-joist material and/or rim board are often required where the I-joist cross a bearing point.

@@johnmccracken5465 how unfortunate! Are you referring to the open web floor trusses? They make everything so much easier!

I like this system better than the Sense. It comes with the wire and wire nuts to pull power from both legs of the electrical panel, which is required for complete monitoring.

Unfortunately it is too common!

We have but the challenge has been availability and cost

Glad you liked it!

@@philallsopp42 a slab can certainly be poured over the vapor barrier, but this adds significant cost with no substantial benefit.

@@fordaiffa6022 glad you found it clear!!!!

@@cambridgehartley3567 yes- construction details can be significantly different in dramatically different climate zones.

@@citylockapolytechnikeyllcc7936 looks like a good product!

It is likely developing condensation inside the ductwork and draining back when it reaches a level of water in the duct. Where are you located?

@@chunkybeast420 yes. There are a variety of methods for ventilation. This approach is referred to as a positive pressurization strategy and relies on stale air leaving the house through the one-way dampers in the exhaust vents (bath fan vents, range hood vent).

@@coldhandjacinth9069 nope - southern mixed humid.

@@armandodiaz67 unfortunately we do not.

@@armandodiaz67 we do consult on building project in that area however!

@@AddisonHomes Thanks. Do you know anyone in the area, you can recommend?

@@AddisonHomes I might take you up on that.... One option was to be my own general contractor. That's only if I can't find anyone I can trust.

I would use continuous insulation appropriate for the climate zone.

Glad it was helpful! The Stego products are fantastic!

You're very welcome!

Thanks very much! I love it!

@@GeneralChangFromDanang you should be able to find products that meet the smoke and flame spread limits outlined in the building code.

@@Dan_Akins it really depends on the site. If it’s dead flat lot, the cost of a stem wall insulated slab versus a monolithic slab is likely within 1-2%, but the stem wall slab requires a few more steps so it may take a little more time on the schedule. If the lot has some slope, a monolithic slab is impossible without significant site work.

@@jims3650 thanks! Try gmxco.com

@@BartmanMi this is true and some are trying to get the certification organizations to permit these smart controls. The challenge that energy startups and DOE have however is ensuring that these are calibrated and accurate enough to manage the indoor air quality

@@pavelm.7673 your increasing the surface temperature on the interior of the foundation wall. This can be done with exterior insulation or interior insulation. With interior insulation, the wall is no longer exposed to the interior air- only the continuous insulation, which has a higher surface temperature that does not result in condensation.

@@Playlist4213 I think you could put the Rockwool against the foundation but recommend you consult the manufacturer’s recommendation.

@@mrmrlee bathroom makeup air is rarely an issue, even in a very tight home. There is generally plenty of air coming under the door and through the HVAC supply to the bathroom and the door is typically left open after the occupant finishes bathing. I recommend a humidity and timer control on the fan to ensure that the moisture is evacuated.

@@AddisonHomes It makes sense having HVAC ducting entering the bathroom for adequate make up air, I was speaking in the case of an older home as my own where there are no openings whatsoever, no window and only the exhaust vent.

Yes - this mechanical room is 8' x 9' 5".

@@qunta53 do you have a similar situation and you’re installing the stone now? We ran a smooth wall-corrugated drain line, sloped for positive drainage, from the “burrito” of filter fabric with stone inside out to daylight.

We use Simpson Titen HD anchors after framing. Much easier to locate these where you want them to go.

I would use the same - 8" CMU block with 4" CMU block on top. This facilitates perimeter insulation but be sure to cap the insulation with a termite shield.

Great questions: - The termite inspection gap is impractical on a finished basement since it is typically inaccessible when a drywall ceiling is used. For a lay-in tile ceiling, the top of the wall is accessible for inspection. - The gap is needed for a close crawlspace. Without the gap, there would be no way to see if termites were tunneling up through the foam insulation board. - Waterproofing under the footing is more challenging than it sounds. In the Southeast, we typically dig a footing trench and fill it with concrete. In order to waterproof the footing, we would need to line the trench with a moisture barrier and ensure it gets wrapped around the footing. Realistically, it is difficult to ensure that this barrier is 100% and also difficult to ensure that rain/moisture doesn't soak into the masonry wall above the waterproofing and wick up to the framing. We have found that the spray applied sealant is extremely easy to apply to the top of the wall while our waterproofing contractor is on-site spraying the exterior below grade foundation walls. There is a product that @jake.bruton.arrow.building covered in a recent video that is actually a footing form that potentially doubles as a waterproofing footing wrap.

You can - but not sure what the intended application would be?

The foam board is actually a vapor barrier. Rain screen depends on the type of siding - for vinyl or composite siding, generally no rainscreen needed, for painted siding, yes to the rainscreen.

The first Concrete masonry units “cinder blocks” were developed in England in the 1850s and are used in many applications today ranging from foundations to commercial buildings. They have been used successfully in construction for over 100 years in the United States and are not “trash”. Settling of any foundation can potentially damage a building which is why it is of vital importance to ensure that the soil load bearing capacity is adequate for the building to be constructed, and the footings are designed and installed to be compatible with the soil bearing capacity and the building design (and include steel rebar reinforcement). If these components of a building’s foundation are not properly accounted for and designed, no foundation wall will be able to support the building successfully. Broad statements claiming certain building materials are “trash” without providing supporting data, are very misleading to those with limited knowledge of construction.

Wood framing with rockwool cavity insulation against a poured concrete wall with poly then drywall on the interior is only a matter of time before mold growth begins.

@@AddisonHomes Read what I said House Wrap first then frame then insulate then Polly then drywall this works simple 🙂

@@thegrantdanielsband good luck with that!

@@AddisonHomes Good luck with that? Of course you need to put the house wrap on the right way!! I have been doing this for years with block or concrete walls and never a mold problem and it is a simple problem solved very effectively 🙂