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Thanks 😄

It doesn’t appear so.

I hope you didn't have to switch it mid-ride!

@@insightbike yes I did, I could only shift 2 gears at a time (both up and down), it was getting on my neeves. Good thing I have a multitool with quick-link opening function.

He said that

Thought I made a follow up to answer that. Going to have to find another blown axle. Anyway, once you get the parts out I used red-loctite on the quickrelease insert. Make sure not to apply any loctite to the axle itself.

Oh man, when the air seals go out they need to be replaced. They just won’t hold air. Replace the air seals. I might have a video on it. The RP23 uses the same air seals kit as todays DPS. Easy to get the parts. But if you hear sloshing in there that is a damper problem.

If you’re in the USA you could send it to me if you’re unsure how to do the work.

I appreciate, I’m from the Philippines, but its so far from my country, and I don’t know how to fix it. I need some help to solve my problem thank you so much.

Next week! Thanks man

man, been so busy workin on bikes I haven't finished it. I promise. Give me a month.

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I had a customer's bike and just kept pushing buttons to see what would happen. good results! Thanks for checking it out.

do the blips take the 2032 batteries as well? seems like a good way to have multiple back up batteries in a pinch, and I assume you can use the blips alongside the regular shifters correct?

@@pauleichner8831 I have no idea what type of battery is inside the blips, they were replaced under warranty, in two years I will try to open them and I will be able to tell you, in any case you can use them together with the standard control

I think you ought to get that fixed as soon as you can. There's is the off chance that the first few strokes the oil can actually impact the damper circuit and damage it. but that would be a severe situation. The other factor is safety, rebound control will be limited and you might find your shock trying to buck you. Feel free to reach out. My turn around time in house on these is about 2 days. - Eric

From what I've seen all DpX2's IFP depths are 38mm/1.5". I haven't had a single one that is different. Sorry for the late reply!

Thank you!

have you found a fix yet?

@@insightbike Replaced the battery under the left hood. Delete, update, reinstall,,, I might have done it wrong😂 according exact spec but getting them all to blink/sink simultaneously relied on me holding down both, right and left small sink buttons at the same time so it was just a bit fiddly. The group is so good so often, by the time I need to tweak it, I have forgotten and would also need to update anyways.

yep. But that's not stopping folks from rebeling.

It’s a potential. But who knows. I don’t think anyone has done that.

yes, The damper stroke on these accommodates up to 180mm of travel, and basically down to about 120mm, I believe. They used to have a bottom-out valve but not sure about that anymore. So that would matter only in the last 10mm of the stroke. The damper really doesn't create a ton of pressure. The Grip series damper purges any additional pressure which is why it's so much better than the FIT dampers. If you want to do it right, and have a FIT damper, it would be good to bleed off some oil by setting the new stroke length and even subtracting 20mm of stroke before capping it off. For example, if you set the for to 120 travel, bleed the damper to 100mm travel. Once capped, extend to the 120mm mark and you won't have the excessive build up of bladder pressure.

This is true. 9 speed and lower are multi-directional.

I'm glad you found this video. SRAM has some intelligent engineers, some of the most brilliant equipment I see is coming from them. Glad you saved the ride!

I'm unsure on that as I don't service X2's. Ideally it should but you might contact Enduro to be sure.

He states this incorrectly which leads to your confusion. The chain ISNT directional. There is an inside and an outside.

Thank you. Trying to handle that at the moment actually! My shop and bike school are Insight Bike Works. So it will likely change to that.

The arrow will face the rear when it’s on the bottom and face the front when on top. Another way to think about it is the arrow points to direction of travel when pedalling.

You have a great riding partner there.

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This is something that I should explain in the video. Thanks for bringing it up. Not only is it in the instructions for every bleed process for brakes, but functionally it remains unexplained. What this technique does is eliminate unnecessary pressure on the bladder and ensures the proper volume of fluid for the brake system. If the lever is not pulled when the bleed port is capped, there will be enough extra volume to create issues with pad spacing, especially on older brakes. Hope that helps!

@@insightbike nice! Thanks for replying, this will be very useful.

Thanks for the feedback. Hope it's a helpful video! I will do this if i lost a lot fluid as well. If I pump the lever once, and don't see some fluid at the bleed port, this is when I need to top it off but I try to avoid getting in that scenario by making sure the syringe isn't in vacuum state when I detach it. It's not always full proof but most of the time it works for me.

​@@insightbikethanks!. I always wait a couple minutes until the system stabilizes to then detach the syringe, but cant stop it from losing a lot of oil through the bleed port. I believe im not doing this the right way. Hows that you make sure the syringe is not in vacuum mode?

@@hillsidewoods you may have pressure locked in the syringe. Generally that fluid you’re losing when you detach the bleeder is coming out of the syringe. The consumer version of SRAMs bleed kit has a rubber gasket on the plunger and this can act as a bladder. Very often using that kit you’ll have syringe spill, but that’s not coming from the master cylinder. The Pro version of the kit doesn’t use the gasket. If you bleed a lot of sram brakes the pro kit is a worthwhile upgrade.

@@hillsidewoods also, to be sure the syringe isn’t in vacuum, press the plunger and push plugs into the lever until the pressure hits a wall. The syringe will regulate the fluid level to a degree. But there will probably be some back pressure and some will spill anyway when you disconnect.

@@insightbike thanks vm for the tips! Very helpful!

That's sad news. Fox isn't super great at helping or supporting their old products. Can you reach out to me from my website? check out insightbike.com and lets see if we can get this figured out. Thanks for checking out the video. I've got more coming but I just haven't had time to do more.

Thanks for checking out the content here. I'm sorry I haven't gotten the rest of the videos done. I've been so incredibly busy and feel badly this has slipped. Please hang in there while I get thru this time and can get some more content done. - Eric

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IFP depths vary depeding on length and stroke of each shock. unfortunately they're not easily found. I don't have a list or anything. I have to make measurements and figure it out each time.

You bet!

I hope you got some useful tips out of it. Good luck!