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@@Eric_TheCajunBlade I would highly recommend a lv 4 ish Namito for midrange work. I only have one Suita. It's a gamble to use it for razors. It seems to want to spit toxic particles randomly.

@@Eric_TheCajunBlade I have a large Lilly White on my wish list. The problem is that most of these are sold in the US. These novaculite stones do create amazing knife edges. A Greek novaculite would also be nice.

@@sergey_ru Hi. Yes, and it doesn't hurt the stone. It also works well on synthetic stones. I use a 50% water to onr ratio.

@@jpo31 thanks.

@@michaelkuper8268 The ninja suit shave just mean that this type of edge is probably too sharp. You really need to be careful when you shave with these types of edges. It's fun from time to time. I also don't think this soft steel can hold it for long.

The onr is diluted to 50% with water.

You need to figure out what works for you and your beard. I don't think this type of edge would last that long with your beard.

@ good point. I think I’ve got a pretty good handle on getting a good edge that works for me but each blade is completely different from each other and sometimes it’s a 20min process and other times it’s hours to get the same edge, depending on the steel and condition of the blade. I guess each one has it’s own personality. Definitely seems to be a learning curve from one razor to the next.

@@RobertPascale "Definitely seems to be a learning curve from one razor to the next." Yes, every steel and even the same steel from different manufacturers needs to be threated a little differently. For some reason i find that the softer steel works much better with coticules then the harder steel. Really hard steel, like you get from TI seem to favor a JNAT type of edge. My Woolfblades razors seems to do much better with the Shapton glass stones then they do with the stones from Naniwa. You can't hone a Gold Dollar razor and expect to learn how to hone a Ti razor. As you say, they are all different.

@ I need to get a few Shapton glass stones and I have 1 Jnat Sean sent me but I need to look into them more and test out more Jnat edges! Thanks for all the tips! Your experience and advice is always very helpful! Thank you John!!

@@RobertPascale I pick up new stuff from others all the time. It's going to be interesting to see what you can do with these jnat's

Hi. This is a 4/6k diamond plate. The other side is 1 micron. The grit jump to 10k is quite easy because the diamond plate is shaped convex. It's a French razor that doesn't like to be dragged through mud:) She likes the broke back treatment. I think it's a he that identifies as a she. She did not mind some Cajun soap during the shave, but that is as classy as you can get:)

@@borbelyhaz321 Yes, i usually just inspect under a scope at the end.

Yeah, i have not found a cure for this. Once you are infected with the JNAT flue it doesn't go away:) I think i have found my sweet spot for my starting condition. 2k to jnat seems to give me a clean slate to build a 'proper' edge from the ground up. I have never been happy with my jnat edges if i go high up in synthetic grits as a starting point. It's like buying a Lamborghini and only using it as a station wagon to buy milk:) Lets see what the WOA does to my jnat flue:)

@ I have never been a fan of that either. It’s the same mindset of Dr Matt, and many guys after and currently pushing it as a superior to folks who can’t manage pressure or slurry. If you want to take the easy route, just say it. Don’t try to rebrand it as some ingenious discovery. I use my Synthetics, and I take the short cuts, but I call a spade a spade and don’t try to bullshit people.

@@seanstapelfeld This jnat is probably one of the fastest i have tried. It's also really fine. Yes, the edge turned out good. See you soon;)

@@greggallant5058 Hi Greg. This did shave really well. They can be pain to hone. However, the edge holds really well. I had to improvise, because I was not getting the apex condition were i wanted off the jnats. So, i needed to add a micro bevel using my shapton stones.

@@jpo31 What is difficult about RWL 34? it's a pretty clean alloy and takes a great edge on knives, though I have limited experience.

@@greggallant5058 In my opinion it's the high wear resistance. It can be a challenge to form a clean apex, especially if the bevel angle is too shallow. These come with a factory bevel below 14 deg. So, you need to add a few layers of tape to have any chanse at getting somewhere. This steel reminds me of how M390 behaves. A jnat will cut the steel but will expose some carbides that can make a really interesting edge. These razors feel like they came right off the stones even after 20+ shaves. I have not tried any other steels with that attribute.

@@jpo31 I'd have to check, and I'm often wrong, but IIRC RWL 34 is designed for strength and toughness with fine grain for a very refined (knife) edge. I can see where many carbon steels could not reliably hold a sub-14 degree bevel angle so wouldn't be surprised that it's an issue with RWL 34.

@@greggallant5058 The steel can probably hold a sub 14 deg edge. However, creating that edge can be a challenge. I would like to try a hard backed nano cloth with cbn or diamonds. It would probably work really well with this steel. When you use stones you are not able to close the apex before the bevel angle is close to 16 deg. Even then you might end up creating a micro bevel to get a clean edge.

Thank you! You too!

Yes, there was one problem area at the heel, and one at the toe. I was planning to end up with a jnat edge. However, i had to adjust and create a micro bevel using synthetic stones. The apex was not forming as i had hoped. That was the reason why i used so many stones. Thanks for watching.

@@seanstapelfeld There is a method to the madness. I am not just slapping steel on a rock;) I think everyone needs to find their own pace and method. Maybe I could do some more voice-over stuff. I think most of the people watching are already proficient at honing razors. This is just me playing with my rocks. I got tired of all the nonsense going on at the shaving forums;)

Thanks Sean. Yes, there is a temptation to do more laps on the 30k. You are really playing with fire if you do too much. Hope you are recovering well from the man flue;)

@@Eric_TheCajunBlade Thanks Eric. I just need to figure out where I can get me some Cajun leather 😋

@ I will try to give you a hand 😝🤪🥴

Hi. I think most people start with synthetic stones. Shapton and Naniwa makes good stones. For natural stones i like coticules and jnat's.

Looks 👍 great edge jpo

​@@garyhaywood6013🎉 Happy birthday Gary 🎂

@@jpo31 thanks 🙏

I had to find my own way;)

@@RobertPascale I have been doing this for 11 years. I think everyone needs to find their own pace. For me it works best if I put in a little energy. I get bored if I need to play with the stones for more then 20 min to get a razor honed. Convexing the stone allows me to set bevels quite fast. This razor had previously been honed with tape on flat stones. So this relatively slow coticule set a new bevel faster then I can using flat synthetic stones. It takes allot of time getting 1k scratches out when you need to go through a full progression.

@ Thanks John! Your knowledge is priceless and I keep picking up new things to try from watching your videos!! I really appreciate your responses and enjoy watching your videos. Thanks for sharing with us brother!

@@RobertsTrailersandReviews Thanks. I will tune in to your channel for your next video.

@@borbelyhaz321 This is a buffalo hide strop I baught in Norway. I use a horse hide Kanayama strop for daily stropping.

Tell me about it😊

😂

There is a reason behind the different edge flipping methods. When I flip edge leading i use my index finger for leverage and increase pressure significantly. Then I follow up with light pressure. I cycle through heavy and light pressure. If I start to loose undercut I increase pressure followed by light pressure. This usually gets the undercut back on track.

@ I do the same to jumpstart undercut, and I also cycle pressure as needed. Pressure management is key. It’s not a dirty word as some would lead you to believe. I usually use my thumb for pressure management on my pull stroke and pointer finger and my push. Same mindset, different method. Thanks for clarifying.

​​@@Eric_TheCajunBladeYes, pressure management is key. It's also a topic that is never discussed in forums. It doesn't matter how you rub the razor on the stone if you don't find a way to dance with the pressure;) The bevel shoulder act as a fulcrum. So, even pressure at the bevel is almost impossible. I work at the front and back of the bevel by adjusting pressure. I also try to add pressure edge leading and use less pressure on the return if I do half strokes to avoid burr formation.

Good morning Bill😊

You never give me a good morning from Pennsylvania. Usually just some kind of ethnic Cajun Comment. Typical Democrat harassment.

@@borbelyhaz321 This is buffalo strop I got online in Norway.

Hi. No, this is the first time i am using this sequence of stones. I prefer to use a full progression of shapton glass, and finish on the 30k pro. This can probably reduce the honing time some. I have had good results using my 8k dmt for bevel correction, followed by a 3,6,8,10 and 30k. I have also skipped the 30k and finished on a JNAT after a 10k. The dmt 8k cuts almost as fast as a synthetic 1K, and leaves allot less work to clean up, and saves time with this hard steel. It can take some time to sort out these because of how they are honed from the "factory". They usually have a low spot near the tow, and at the heel. Thus, you need to remove allot of material to get a working bevel profile. Using jnat's also create a hazy bevel, which looks nice together with the satin blade finish. One extra layer of tape was used for the last step.

@ John, thank you so much for the detailed reply!! That’s very helpful! Looks like I need to get an 8K dmt. I really appreciate the advice!

@@RobertPascale The dmt 8k takes some time to breake in. So, if you get one it's good to know it settles down after a while.

@ another fantastic piece of advice! I can’t thank you enough John!

@@RobertsTrailersandReviews Hi. This is his so-called entry level/production razor. In my opinion this is quite close to the more premium models if you don't consider the patterned damasteel.

@@billm.2677 Thanks Bill. The bevel setting plate is a broken in 8k. Trevor's razors are really nice after you get past the honing. To me it seems like the factory edge was set using belts. That leaves some work to clean up if you want your own edge.

@@Eric_TheCajunBlade Thanks Eric. I also have the g7 0.44. I don't like it. I would like to get some more grit sizes. I also have the 6.7, but it would be nice to have the 3 micron.

@@garyhaywood6013 Thanks. The last stone is the Shapton pro 30k. It's nothing like the glass 30k. I also like the smaller sized stones, especially for finishing.

@ yes I've heard 30k pro user friendly 30k glass not so

@@borbelyhaz321 The blue stuff is Optimum No Rinse solution.

@@antoniosechi6671 It's a Translucent Black/Blue Black Arkansas stone. Wd 40 work quite well as lubrication on novaculite stones.

@@michaelkuper8268 That is Opinion No Rinse, aka ONR.

@@kovokarota6282 Optimum No Rinse solution, aka ONR.