Grounding question. I’ve seen diagrams that have the Victron multiplus II grounded both to the lynx (lynx grounded to chassis with 4/0) and to the chassis directly using 4/0 cable. I’ve also seen ones where they ground 2 4/0 cables to the lynx and then have the lynx grounded to the chassis. How do you do it?
Also, any reason you didn’t put the batteries in the compartment where the old ones were? I was thinking of removing the tray to make more room. I’m assuming you found that the inside a)had more room and b) would stay more temperature controlled.
I found the 5/16 connection on the Multiplus II forces a severe bend also. I also resorted to 3/8 lug to give some 'flex'. Q: Do you find that you are installing ONLY Multiplus II's now and not regular Multiplus?
I have a 2000 Newmar Dutch Star that I’m planning out now. I noticed you went straight to the distributor with the alternator wire. No dc to dc? That is, you’re not concerned about overloading the alternator?
We did have circuit protection. I believe we showed we got 300-400w out of it as-is. With these diesels I’m not as concerned about cooking the alternator, nor am I with the alternator perfectly charging the batteries. When you have 2000+w of solar, let it handle the final charge. Just my $.02 Now if you have a second alternator or want to push your alternator, I’d recommend a belmar or wake speed alternator controller.
![SAFEPLANET - ดาวเคราะห์ [ THE PLANET ]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/4X1XL3I_k3c/mqdefault.jpg)
looking good. Thanks Don
Grounding question. I’ve seen diagrams that have the Victron multiplus II grounded both to the lynx (lynx grounded to chassis with 4/0) and to the chassis directly using 4/0 cable. I’ve also seen ones where they ground 2 4/0 cables to the lynx and then have the lynx grounded to the chassis. How do you do it?
Also, any reason you didn’t put the batteries in the compartment where the old ones were? I was thinking of removing the tray to make more room. I’m assuming you found that the inside a)had more room and b) would stay more temperature controlled.
Mostly for temp as the Li time battery has no heating I believe. Although I don’t stay up on all their new product offerings.
I found the 5/16 connection on the Multiplus II forces a severe bend also. I also resorted to 3/8 lug to give some 'flex'. Q: Do you find that you are installing ONLY Multiplus II's now and not regular Multiplus?
We do install mostly the IIs . Mostly the 2x120s . If we considered a system with an auto transformer we’d go for the 1s or at least the 120 only 2s
Nice. Have you had a chance to play with the new Victron Orion XS 50amp DC to DC chargers? They seem like a yuge upgrade in technology.
Yes we did install one for a customer. Not a huge project. No video on it yet.
I have a 2000 Newmar Dutch Star that I’m planning out now. I noticed you went straight to the distributor with the alternator wire. No dc to dc? That is, you’re not concerned about overloading the alternator?
We did have circuit protection. I believe we showed we got 300-400w out of it as-is. With these diesels I’m not as concerned about cooking the alternator, nor am I with the alternator perfectly charging the batteries. When you have 2000+w of solar, let it handle the final charge. Just my $.02
Now if you have a second alternator or want to push your alternator, I’d recommend a belmar or wake speed alternator controller.
@@sotasolar awesome. TY!
The dihool 400 replaces the need for a switch and a fuse. That right?
Yea
@@sotasolar my 4/0 wire ends don’t fit into the 400amp dihool. Grind them down?
@@aphillips76 Yes