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I came to similar conclusion for BW film of same type: The consumption of film space (square mm) is constant for 24x36, 6x6/7, 9x12/4x5'' you shoot per hour. So the costs are quite equal as you shoot and develop (!) less pictures with bigger formats per hour. Despite I try to become with practice faster with bigger formats ;-) last not least not to miss situations.

Not film but camera: I got price for a mid 1920s Linhof Technika. Calculating the inflation up to today. you are not far away form 2024's Linhof Technika price of 8,200 EUR (w/o tax). Sure also w/o lens.

Started too late to purchase film cameras/lenses (again) in 2020. Bought my first Nikon FE2 in 1985. But I am happy having done this, seeing the prices raised and offers dropped. Purchase focus was/is primary medium, large format cameras/lenses and ULF lenses. ULF lenses w/o shutter from the dead repro industry and elsewhere are still available and still bargin cheap (compared to original inflation corrected prices) - at least for those produced in volume (~150 to ~400mm). (Apo) Tessar, Apo Ronar, Agfa Repromaster, Epis. Rare/'expensive' is was goes beyond 600mm. BTW: Aside of regretting to starting late with cameras/lenses, I regret also having not invested in high-end darkroom stuff around 2010. Those items are only rare posted and if with increased prices today.

The legal situation in most countries make it hard to impossible to do classic street photography (which can be also shown) today. But if still targeted, and I am nearly sure HCB would do same: Use a smart phone with camera. And you are nearly invisible.

A D800 and a D810 in use. Bought 2x D810 when they got cheap as spare. No plans to upgrade in upcoming decade. The only reason I consider to buy a mirrorless is with best 100MP (like the Fuji GFX100s) is for multishot pixelshift shooting without shutter as film scanner.

👍 on computers, it depends a bit .. as there is still the Moore's law. But going to the lower high end is for sure cheaper than the latest high-high end. On everything else I agree. What you could add is buy bulk: 10x 120 film. 30,5m bulk roll of 135. Developer, fixer in 5000ml powder instead 600 or 1000ml. Unfortunately they dropped the old 600/1000ml, 2500ml, 10000ml packaging scheme. 2500ml was great. x-ray sheet film. Despite I still struggle with uneven development in my FR/Doran sheet tanks. But that is tank related.

I own an F4, enjoying its durability and versatility.

This video is excellent! I wish you would have repair videos of every lens! Thanks a lot! ❤

You don't wash the film in running water at all? And why don't you put the developmenttank in the waterbath to keep the temperature of the chemicals, especially doing the color developer?

i totally agree with your 3 lens theory! I see that you put a 2x factor between them, 24mm, 50mm, 100mm (or 85mm) my picks have a 3x in between them, for FF FX: 18mm, 50mm, 150mm (or 135mm) 18mm i love because it gives 90 degrees viewing angle wall-to-wall. which is nice for inside a building if you stand in a corner (say, a church) or on the street if you stand in the corner of a crossroad and capture both sides. on APS-C DX: 12mm, 35mm, 105mm

"the B word, Bokeh" totally agree! it's gone too far :))

Looks like an old T1000 (Terminator), but still there to do the job... and perhaps more efficiently than many of today's devices...

I used to work in the printers that printed AP. That's were my interest started, because I read issue for free.

what are your thoughts on using something like Armour Etch to chemically etch the glass instead of grinding it?

Do you have a link to the Fresnel ground glass

i've been meding the flaps with duct tape and paiting it with a sharpie. this looks like a better solution! i'll try it soon. Thank you for this!

Nice video, but I have a problem with shutter speed/ISO dial. I bought cheap MTL 50 and the ISO dial numbers were hidden below, also the shutter speed plate was missing. I could figure out the shutter speed but with ISO was tricky. But I also figured out that ISO100 light meter works at shuter speed 1/2 but doesn't at 1sec. ISO1600 , light meter works at 1/30 but doesn't at 1/15. So I wanted to fix the plate, I teared it apart and now no matter how I put it back together the light meter works at any ISO. Everytklhing seems to be wrong with ISO. Any tips how to figure it out and assembly it? Thanks

In 2023 I purchased my first Nikon F4. I wanted one ever since the 90's. I was finally able to afford one for a meager $300 used.. Digital or not, it is one of my favorite cameras ever.

vlc,plc,llc, and "EE",all need electric version lens to work well. The names of them have a "C" for example, Pentacon 50 1.8 electric，Carl Zeiss Jena Flektogon 35/2.4 electric

@The Photo Lounge I have a Wista 7x5 with a 5x4 back. However the back can't be mounted because it lacks the tiny screws that holds the clips to mout the 5x4 back. Where to find so tiny screws? Ebay? Those screws to repair watches ?

I got my F4s three days ago and the F90X today. I'm very excited to shoot both this weekend. I'm using the 20mm 2.8D and 28-70 2.8D.

Hello. I recently bought a lens like this and use it on my Nikon D3500. Is it normal that the aperture is not written in the metadata? Thank you

I love my Nikon F4! It has served me well over the years. My 80-200 f2.8 ED is a major part of my kit.

I thought that the 2 touch had its own built on the barrel lens hood?

Great video because of your knowledge. ❤❤

Excellent video 😮!

This is an epic video. The reason I say this is that these are the best cameras in existence that I have used and I have used hundreds, especially for those today looking to get into great photography on the the cheap. Folding medium format cameras are, in my opinion, the best cameras ever made. They should have never stopped making them. I bought a Bower x the other day (A Franklin Rolfix JR re-badge) for 10 dollars that looked brand new. I have already sold 5 prints from that camera and I loved using it. My Voigtlander Bessa II and RF are my favorites but there are so many others that are just as good if you do not mind shooting without a rangefinder. I do not understand why people have not caught on to these hidden gems. I own 42 cameras, most of them are 35mm German cameras and many of them are Leicas, but my folders..... nothing is better. They are the perfect camera. BTW, I liked your options of measuring distance....a string with knots....nice.

Who was the photographer that had his life saved by the Nikon? I lived next to Sir Don McCullin in Warwick NY for a number of years and he had a camera on his shelf that stopped a bullet, I have it in my mind it was a Leica, wish I had photographed it now!

Over the decades, I have owned and used the Nikon F, F2, F3, F4, N70, N2000, and EM. The F4 is my favorite automatic/electronic 35mm film SLR. It is a beautiful beast. The manual/mechanical Nikon F2 is my favorite 35mm film SLR.

Years ago i received a top tip about removing those small aluminium cover plates with no damage. It sounds a bit weird but here it goes. first you glue on with a contact cement like bison tix a long flathead screw. then you put the camera in an oven set on 50 degrees Celsius. the aluminiun cover will then sag out of its place because of the weight of the screw. the screw then can be removed from the cover plate with no damage at all on the plate. in the same oven time you soften up the glue that holds the faux leather so if needed you can peel that off to right then without damage.

Just found your videos recently while searching for reviews for this particular lens. You seem very down to earth and cool guy. Amazing review!

I grabbed my coffee too as the entire rig set up is huge and I hate people approaching me! I’m excited to get mine 😻

Using this lens on my Nikon D2X; a crop sensor so its focal length equates to about 90mm, making it an ideal portrait lens. It is quite sharp and focuses pretty snappy.. The colours are lovely and have nice unique pallet. I have also used it on my Nikon F4 shooting a role of Ilford hp5, but not developed it yet as I still have a few shots to go.

Hello there, I certainly agree with you that these cameras are really fun IF they work. I’ve bought several of them over the years and almost every copy of them shared the same problems. First of all: stuck front element. The green grease has become more like concrete over the decades and is tricky to loosen up. Usually the ring for distance has to be removed ( three tiny worm screws ) and than one can apply isopropyl alcohol to the stuck element. Heat can help too ! Second issue is light leaks in the corners of the bellows. Unlike real leather bellows of older cameras, these plastic bellows are prone to cracking. Otherwise they are pretty solid cameras and will reward you with good results. Last but not least: stay away from the self timer, when fitted. Most of them will not work properly, due to hardening. Thanks for sharing your experience and pictures!

Thanks for that. Lovely video. I have just purchased one of these from Japan - how does 3 day delivery from Japan to my door in Western Australia stack up!! and I bought it on the understanding that the manual focus was stuck. I found this video th-cam.com/video/pi08GkYovYs/w-d-xo.htmlsi=LpratoamuCm0cG0- on TH-cam and five minutes later the lens was functioning normally. Very easy fix and looking forward to taking some exceptional photos. And BTW, the lens I purchased, like yours made over 20 years ago, is absolutely immaculate. Not a mark, speck of dust no rub marks from the tripod mount. I suspect it jammed up and then was put aside until the camera shop in Japan got hold of it and sold it to me. Loved you photos BTW.

" Get thee to a Nunnery go "

Good video, my problem with the RB67 is the foam in the Mirror Box!

I cant seem to find one without a battery holder problem or bad LCD display. But with no battery it is dead.

Excellent video, clearly explained and demonstrated. Jeez, I don't 'arf miss your vids, Ash. Get well soon, bud. Atb

I like the reveal of the nice angular fabric texture at the end. It has a unique appearance..

I'm trying to decide between the F4, F5 or F100.

no audio on a PC with mono speaker, Phone works fine - maybe there is some mono incompatibility? Destructive interference?

I remember those times in early 2000's when you could buy film cameras for peanuts. But I could afford only a thing here and there course my mortgage was still sky high. And now when I'm done with mortgage the prices for even slightly nicer cameras are sky high. I will not say that universe is unjust, but it does behave like an a**hole...

Hi Ash, long time, no hear. I hope you're in fine fettle. I'm sure there's a whole bunch of people missing your regular vlogs and that I'm not the only one. T'would be good to hear from you - or at least, learn that you're well. Atb

I love that Laser Cutter 🥰🥰🥰🥰

Would using contact adhesive in a tin and a spreader or paintbrush make the closing together gluing on the inside any easier, as the spray gets everywhere?

Hello, I purchased a Praktica LLC. Sadly shortly after the purchase it broke: the mirror stays up and everytime I crank the lever to max (like so far until the shutter should be cocked) it seems like it automatically fires (it only sounds like it does. when switching the exposure times the sound changes) but the shutter doesn’t open. Also when I crank the shutter, the shutter metal plates move half up, but when it ,,shoots,, it slowly sinks down again. The camera worked before, it all happened after I used the self exposure! When I looked trough some video to get some help I found none. But I saw that you have a identical Praktica LLC like I have so I thought you could maybe help me? Sorry for my bad englisch. Greetings from Germany.

I have the 80 - 200 ED generation before that one push and pull Zoom , the telephoto lens is in an awesome shape like new I have it on my Nikon F4 , I really didn't have a problem Nikon ED 80 - 200 focusing FYI .. My Lens didn't have the tripod mount

So I did the back ok but the rotating RB plate looks a bit dodgy. What can you say is the most important seal to pay extra attention to or if do 1st? My rear RB Pro S to back square sear is a bit fiddly to get cut to size in 1 go

As usual I truly enjoy your love for the F4s. Maybe chunky but I tell you what… it is drop dead gorgeous!!!