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Вітаю,ви мотор фарбували? Бо виглядае як новий,клапана регулювали,?

6:50 to 6:53 my knees getting out of bed......

What are the torque settings for the clutch cover bolts my friend ?

Köszi a feltöltést!

Hi great video do you have to advance the advance the crank pully a few teth or is that optional has ive seen other videos and they dont do that thsnkyou

Sounds stupid but it looks odd without the panniers etc

Thanks bro

Thanks for posting. It’s the lower rhs on mine as well, probably because trapped water moves right due to side stand. Interesting to see that the strength isn’t too badly compromised as I have one more journey to do 😎

lot of love went into this bike ... Very satisfying to see!

Re voltmeter. Try and source an ex police ST, they have the voltmeter as standard that is shaped to fit in perfectly. Keep headlamp adjuster connected (just fix it inside fairing anywhere its accessible). Nice job so far. I stripped mine a couple of years ago, painted the engine and frame. Now done over 460k miles, (including a run to Ukraine last March).

Nice one thanks

It's definitely not a waste cleaning n painting the engine. Removing any corrosion and preventing any further is always a good step. When I took my ST engine out (for maintenance and so I could clean up the frame) I scrubbed it down, pretty much the same way you are doing, and painted it with silver gloss engine enamel, still looks great 5 years later. Ps, remove rocker covers n rubber gaskets before painting. Ive seen a couple with them gaskets just painted over - looks awful.

Brilliant

St 1100 a very underestimated bike !

Spectacular, fabulous technique as per the manufacturer's rules. this is how it should be done

Il y a une video en francais?

Just watched your videos, excellent job, do you still have the ST? There's worth a small fortune now.

klaar foor ver koop 👍

I have exactly the same windshield and you had a little extra wind deflector in it. Is functional for long drivers to prevent wind?

the belt is mounted in the opposite direction of the engine rotation starting from the crankshaft and the last time on the tensioning roller, this is simple and correct otherwise the timing goes wrong or you have to try several times until you put it correctly

the belt is mounted in the opposite direction of the motor rotation starting from the vibrichen and the last time on the tensioning roller, this is simple and correct otherwise the timing goes wrong or you have to try several times until you put it correctly

Great vid mate. Made the job look easy.

Awesome video mate, thanks for taking the time to put this together for everyone :)

good video ... so i take it there are no locktools for this engine then ? to block the cams and crank while changing the belt ?

Thanks for what you doing. But I have a question for you. I ve just bought an st1100 the second shift is hard to get in and sometimes I would hear this noise coming from the engine like a spoon falling on the concrete floor. Please what it is if you know

Hi I like what you doing for rokies like me. I have a question for you, I've just bought an st1100 when I shift to second it makes a triple noise like it doesn't want too. And also when I start the engine sometimes I will hear this clik clip clik like the falling of spoon on a concrete floor or when I am 110 km an hour I could also hear that noise. Could you please tell me what it is if you know. Thanks

Dammmm! It looks brand new! Awesome job!

the old radiator looked like it had been under salt water for a year !

they did the same thing with this engine they did with the 500/650 V twins put the clutch right up front !

Fantastic job there 👏. I have the same year bike and looking to change out the bars, any chance you could let me know what renthal bar model you went for and raiser kit please? I also don't like the standard bar arrangement. Many thanks in advance ☺

Your a bit like myself, done a hell of a good job there, be good for 250,000 mile now. 👍🏴󠁧󠁢󠁷󠁬󠁳󠁿

Why do they still keep using belts.

did you end up painting the engine ? if so what paints did you decide on

How much heavier is the brass radiator compared to the original aluminium ?

👍

nice job.

You ever have a problem with the CDI potting compound leaking in hot weather? i posted it here...th-cam.com/video/EmD1shx_Rn4/w-d-xo.html

HELLO SUPER THE TUTORIAL, POUREGE KNOW HOW TO REMOVE THE ALTERNATOR FROM THIS BIKE? Thank you

I never heard of plastic coating. Does it stick pretty well? Were is that done at? Auto repair?

i need the two oil seals between the driveshaft and final drive , any pointers ? my local dealer is a waste of time ... i gave up on them years ago , all other parts are easily located , but these seals im running into a wall , the one inside the flange i assume a seal place , but the one that sits em... inside on the removable drive part between the shaft and the hub is a funny shape . any ideas , thanks dave

great work , its only when you work on one of these you appreciate they are a monster , i do a lot of work on my bikes , ive my pan stripped at the mo for mechanical refurb , as im laid up with an injury and cant ride (im a dispatcher) they really are built like a tank , mines going matt black , im doing all the chassis bearings t belt , valve clearances (for reference to anyone ) 60k miles i doubt ever been done , all exhausts tight all inlets fine , ex 0.22-28 , mine were all 0.15- 0.2 , im gonna install phone charger , power outlet , cheapo front / rear camera , swingarm out for a look solid but lot of surface rust , same all around rear lower frame , cutting down the motad cans , oil seal gone in final drive at input , st bearings all new wheel bearings , can highly recommend bridgestone t30's , (fitted to all my bikes) just got the new t31 for this build , yss shock , although i must say im on my second warrenty replacement , if it goes again itll be in the bin , ive been assured by vendor this is rare , and the block connector going into the solenoid was melted , i removed the tank and there was serious rust too , but only surface so hammerite and wire brush , like yu i intend keeping it , ive done this kind of refurb , many times but on the pan , its twice the work , good luck , and im sure ill be checking in as ive a coupla questions , great work your doing , but im only doing a refurb of the mech side , mines just gonna look like a junker , you bike looks mint , well done

good day - I need your help I live in Russia in a deep village and we do not have spare parts for a pan of Europe, please send me a belt and a clutch for motocycle

hi , looks great have my pan stripped at the mo , im a dispatcher so i wont be going super clean like yours , im commenting because i appreciate the work involved , there is some amount of stripping and putting back together on these bikes , my garage looks like ive took three bikes apart , well done : )

Nicely done! I'm looking at buying an ST1300, possibly a 2009 model.

Nice job what wire did you wire the voltmeter too cheers

In how many miles need replace the timing belt?

Thanks a lot for this .... Just considering buying a pan this video has put my mind at ease that it's not too much of a drama, nice one

You should instal the belt anti clockwise from the crank, that means any loose belt is already at the tensioner.

Very interesting to see the motor out of the frame and with all the stuff off. Surprisingly compact.

Nice bike hope I can do like urs for my st11