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If any of you have issues where your mesh feels tight and then loose again and then tight again this is almost guarenteed to fix it. Also while your in there just be sure to double check all the screws on your cush drive ensuring they stay tight.

Excellent... sometimes you don't need to overthink things. Simple solutions work too! 👍👍

Nice brother. I think the small spur is the way to go with kraton. Belted mashers or belted proline badland mx43 are peoples choice for the high gearing on this car. Personally, I like the look of the mashers over the mx43, but I think the mx43 may be able to handle the power better. I know some youtubers with 12s conversion upgrade opted for the mx43. I expect the bead-loc design will help keep the tire on the wheel. The badland mx43 are designed for the xmaxx though. I advise doing a little research to see if proline make a version that fit directly on the kraton. Failing that you can drill the centre holes out to fit the arrmas as well.

Hi buddy. New these 8s arrmas are tanks. Once the hinge pin braces start becoming worn out, the pins tend to break. It's an easy fix. Just upgrade to solid 7075 blocks front and rear. I found I broke more pins on the kraton rather than the outcast.... Could be down to the extra weight the kraton carries. Ear plugs in the kraton is defo the way to go👍 100% agree the outcast is SICK! love mine! I prefer it over the kraton. You do get used to bending drive shafts on 8s arrmas, unfortunately. Again, no big deal. Happy bashing!

@@inspiredrchonestly I can say it’s my fault lol I was testing the shit out of it and it took it the Outcast is an animal lol I’ll definitely do those upgrades what power upgrades do you recommend is a max 5 Worth It or castle ?

@TMIVRC I've always wanted to put a max 5 and 800 kv in mine 39/39. My only reservation is the extra weight it will add. I was hoping the 1100kv with the new v2 spektrum esc would be a happy medium. At the moment, I have v2 electronics installed in both of mine with 30/47 gearing and max punch. I can get a double backflip with the kraton, which I'm happy with.

@TMIVRC I prob wouldn't go with Castle due to the fire issues they've had in the past. It's just not worth the risk on £1000 rc. Hobbywing is more reliable imo. Also, if you upgrade the power system, then you will prob need to change the wheels. People tend to go with Badlands. Personally, I'm not a fan of the look.

If you stick to the stock electronics, the drive train on the xmaxx will hold up for the most part, but as soon as you upgrade, expect to start breaking gears. I went with aftermarket harden steel pinion and spur even with stock electronics. Something i feel traxxas should have addressed instead making cosmetic changes and calling the latest version an ultimate.....

Not really tbh. I don't recall having many thermal cut offs. The car has been good 👍

@@inspiredrc I ask because I’m trying to find best gears for my xmaxx to run on to backflip and have good power without overheating

@sunnyv1281 At the moment, I've got 19/50 in my xmaxx. Just because that's all I had available in my parts draw. I haven't had any issues with it. I'm based in the UK, so the weather isn't usually an issue. Maybe that helps with temps as well. My advice is to try 18/46 and see how it performs, then maybe go up a couple of teeth on the spur. Really, it needs a max6 combo to make it come alive. You can even go 22/50 depending on whether conditions. To bash a big rig well, you want to get it to 50mph+ in my experience. I can get backflips on 18/46 though. 👍

I love the 8s rigs, but they are heavy. Tbh I feel more confident bashing with the 1/8 scale. They are more agile and stunt better. Not to mention cheaper to repair. It's easier to carry around as well. Like you, I own both sizes, and that's simply down to the feeling you get bashing the 8s rigs can't be matched with anything else... So i will always try to have both 8s and 6s cars in my collection. 👍 trust me, your gona love your 8s cars when they arrive. Twice the size of the kagama!

Hi. Yes. I've been doing this for the past 3 years, and I'm still on my original bodies on all my rigs. Although some are quite rough now. Highly recommended mod 👌 👍

Thx buddy. I'm glad you enjoyed the vid. Bashing these big rigs is a blast. I'm sure your gona love your too! Yeh, stock they come with 20mil in the centre diff, but to stop the ballooning tyres, I think ears plugs are the way to go. I also recommend upgrading the A,B,C & D hinge pin blocks to aftermarket 7075 ones to avoid breaking loads of hinge pins. M2c and CRCU make good ones. Happy bashing! 👍👍

Hi buddy. Tbh, I'm still running my stock servo. It's not as great after a year, but as a basher, I find a can go through servos often. To keep cost down I recommend the DS3235. It's cheap and powerful. Available on ebay and amazon. I have them installed in my kraton 6s exb and my kagma. Both are still going strong 💪 I actually have one ready to drop into the fireteam once the stock one fails. I hope this helps 👍

@@inspiredrc thank you mate. Any things I need to change on the mounts or servos horns or can I just replace the servo?

@conrow1157 hi. You will be able to use your existing horn and screws. Here is a vid I did when I put the 25kg version in my kraton 6s. Install procedure will be the same. Just make sure you get the 35kg version. Ds3235.

@@conrow1157 th-cam.com/video/IhTF9SB9r4k/w-d-xo.html

@@inspiredrc Hero

Nice one! Thx buddy. It's a super fun rig. Best 8s basher available today imo! 🙂💪🔥⚡️🚀

Hi. Yes, it did help, but it also turned out that my steering servo was shorting out, which can cause all sorts of weired problems like esc resetting. Symptom was 'signal dropping', but in reality, esc was turning on/off by itself when i tried to turn left/right. My advice is only to re-trim the antenna if it's broken. Otherwise, look elsewhere for the issue, for example, possible water damage to the receiver....

Tbh the outcast is my goto. It stunts well and can ride the wheelies long distances and is fast. The new rtr electronics are the perfect combination between power and weight increase imo. I enjoy jumping my rigs and always am excited when I know I'm gona take it out.

Thx Wayne.. it was a brutal first outing for the outcast. Yeah that jump could have ended bad for me. These 8s rigs are massive so you have the hit the jumps perfect or it go off course easily. I still love my outcast and glad you enjoyed the vid. I'm currently just taking a break from the hobby.... got lots going on at the moment but will be back soon. So far I love the new electronics. Prefect size motor for this rig and look forward to my next bash with the big girl! Tahir

Yes buddy. Max the punch and it should wheelie. I've added one ear plug in my center diff to get to flip easier but I was able to wheelie before I put the ear plug in as well.

@@inspiredrc which is more fun this or the outcast 8s?

@thepatternforms859 Outcast 8s if your planning to jump and stunt it. Kraton 8s if your more of a track guy.

@@inspiredrc I’m more of a high speed, drifting, guy. Which I know the K8 is better for but does the O8 turn sharper, handle better, and wheelie better? I’ve heard the O8 feels like more power and more fun?

@thepatternforms859 it's hard to decide which better hence why I have both. Personally the shorter wheelbase makes the outcast more fun. I can get a double backflip with the outcast where I only get a single backflip with the kraton on the same jump. The outcast wants to wheelie alot which make it difficult to get it to turn as the front wheels are always lifting up. If you like to do speed runs the kraton is better at it being more stable. I prefer my outcast as I like to jump my rc's and its more suited for that. Tbh from what you said the kraton will fit your bill. In the future you can ear plug the center diff to help with stunts and wheelie. If after that you still have the outcast itch it wouldn't take much to convert the kraton to an outcast.....

Hi buddy. The bar will give the rear wing some protection but the extra weight could compromise the wing brace... I drilled a couple of holes in the wing brace and added some zip ties between the brace and the rear tower. This stops the wing brace from over extending and breaking. I have a video showing this on the channel if your interested.

Nice buddy. That's a good price for a fireteam. Mines fully upgrades to the exb spec bar the diffs.. however I'm running the stock 6s system ,15t pinion, max punch! I love the size of these and jumps well! 👍

@@inspiredrc heck yeah, I’m the same way, that $375 will quickly be $700-800 within a week of me owning it lol. I suppose thats better than $1,000+ new tho, I like the size of them for sure but I’ve got some similar already so my question is, do you actually use the handbrake or is it just a novelty? That’s really the only thing drawing me to it, other than it looks badass, especially yours lol

@G__Mason thx buddy. Tbh I like jumping more than ripping so I don't use the handbrake much. Personally I think its a novelty. You can achieve similar handbrake slides with a good servo and fancy driving... don't get me wrong it's a nice feature to have but better suited to on road cars. It was the styling and roll cage i like hence why I wanted one for my collection.

Yes buddy. I've still got one in my kraton.

Why would I buy an rtr when I would replace the servo, reciever and controller straight away.... not to mention I had a corally motor and esc available to drop in.... I saved at least £200 by getting the roller.

Thank you 🙂

Excellent idea buddy. After losing a couple of recivers to water damage I had to come up with a temporary solution. Not had any issues after sealing the reciever box with blutac.

Sorry buddy this is not a drag race wheelie bar. It's designed to ride the wheelies. Not to stop them.

Its a simple solution but works well👍

Thx buddy 👍

I am the opposite unfortunately. I have both...Not a fan of dumbo. I prefer the dx3. Just feels better quality.

Hi buddy. The fireteam has a longer chassis which makes it more stable and allows to drift easily. The longer chassis also makes it slightly more difficult to stunt. I would say the sledge is more bashing oriented where as the fireteam is more of a drivers car.

Hi buddy. I've just used some thick long screws with washers. About 8 inches long. I left the screws out the wall around 5 inches. Long enough to hang the cars under the front arms. It was temporary, not ideal but works. It makes the cars look as though they are driving up the wall. 👍

Prob the outcast as its slightly lighter buddy 👍

Hi buddy... sounds like the gearing material is weak. As long as the pitch of the gears are the same and the mesh is set right you should be ok. I would probably find some harden steel gears and replace the the pinion and spur.

Yes unfortunately but I expect arrma to release a new version wheelie bar when the new outcast 6s exb drops.

Night and day buddy... kagama is superior 👍

​@inspiredrc is the kagama worth circa 170 quid more?

@luvadealme definitely buddy. The kagama is better built with alot more premium parts as standard...👍

Definitely worth tightening up. Mine been fine since doing this mod. 👍

@@inspiredrc this didn't work. Shall I try and put a spacer under the spring? I don't understand really how that would help? Thanks

@BigCheese85 hi yes. I cut an old spring and added another ring to mine to stiffen it up. Yes I would put at least two or three spacers in.

@@inspiredrc thanks. If I tighten the screw right down does it mean I could damage the servo if I crash?

@BigCheese85 yes buddy. The servo is there to take some of the shock from heavy steering and crashes. Don't tighten it all the way it needs some slack. As I said mines been fine... I'm still using my original steering servo after 3 yrs. It just a case of tightening a little then test it. Your steering will never be prefect because the traxxas stock servo isn't the best but you should be able to make it better. Have a look at my servo in the vid and try to match it....

Hi buddy. I'm using a set of 6200 mah 80c zeee 4s lipos. I get around 15 mins run time. I would recommend lowering the lipo cut off value on the esc as from factory its set quite high.

Hi buddy. I tend to purchase extra screws from my local ironmongers to keep as spares if needed. I also try to buy parts with screws from rc breakers online. Some rc breakers also sell screws separately. Ebay a good place to look. I good tip is to spray the screw heads with wd40 to stop them from getting rusty.. it makes them last longer...

19/46 in this video. Heres is the full bash vid dude... th-cam.com/video/_J_zjde9ve4/w-d-xo.html

19/46 is what I would recommend 👌

​@@inspiredrcHi! ^^ The reason why I recommend 46/19 is because!!!!Is the temperature not too hot? Many people recommend 50/20 gearing.. I'd like to know why you recommend 46/19 more^^

Dude I agree. They should have released this as a roller as well. Alot of people have electronics from their v1 they could use. Why not release a roller and an rtr??? Imo it needs a max5 with an 800kv motor. Servo needs to be alot better. I actually got more run time with the old sr905 servo at 8.4v.... thats crazy arrma.

I get around 15-20 minutes of run time using a set of 6500mah 4s batteries.

Tbh on the stock vxl esc I prefer to run 19/46 in summer and 18/46 in winter. Honestly it's still not enough to get double or triple backflips... for that you would need to change the esc for a max6 and running 23/46 gearing.

Hi yes. I upgraded pinion and spur to harden steel GDS ones and replaced the spur shaft and spur shaft bearing. It's been running fine ever since.

It really depends on your skill level. The xmaxx is more durable and cheap maintenance. Arrma is faster, bigger and heavier. Arrmais most likely to break if you don't land correctly. I love them both. It's hard to choose. Both have pro and cons. If you can afford it I would get an xmaxx and an outcast 8s.

@@inspiredrc by xrt what do you think?

@danimudura3213 I don't own an xrt but from what I've seen the wider arms are prone to breaking easily. If I was to purchase one then I'd probably replace the esc for a max6 or equivalent and also replace the wheels for bashing ones. It is designed more for race style bashing. Durability wise the xmaxx is more durable and can take alot of abuse. The xmaxx is unstable which can be super annoying. I wouldn't sell my xmaxx to buy an xrt but I would buy an xrt to have a different traxxas option to run. The two behave and run differently. I do think if you did them changes I mentioned to the xrt it will give you the best of traxxas and arrma. It will be lighter and as fast as an arrma with the durability of traxxas. Driving wise the xrt will be as stuntable as the kraton 8s and more stable than the xmaxx.

Hi buddy. Heres a similar one.... www.ebay.co.uk/itm/203740650693?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=SYPUevbISUa&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=C4SEwFDwTzy&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY