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Thanks mate, I'm a Heavy Duty Mechanic by trade, self taught with everything else I do. Just lots of practice and learning from lots of mistakes.

I don't have any for sale at the moment sorry mate, there are other custom manifold avalible you can check out.. Search for JRACE td42 intake $899 AUD Or cross country td42 intake $1299 AUD If you don't have a welder and want to make your own manifold, its worth cutting your old manifold and the 3mm sheets of aluminium, bend them up to the shape you want and take them to a fabrication shop that can weld them for you. Hope that helps.

It was a system I designed myself for offroad use only. Using a LPG solenoid and inline delivery jet/orifice for flow controll. It was controlled by a relay signalled by an adjustable boost compensated switch. The switch I had set to 7psi boost, it would start delivering LPG. The delivery was plumbed into the intake pre-turbo, allowing it mix with the charge air before entering the cylinders.

@@harbourbuilt3891 Great stuff cheers....I was planing on using a impco model J regulator pre turbo......Cheers

The local homebrew shop had them custom cut out of 5mm thick glass, due to the heat expansion and horizontal load from the tri-clamp, the secret is to loosely install the clamp until the boiler is up to atleast 60°C or you see it starting to leak, then tighten the clamp enough for it to stop leaking. I have used this boiler atleast 10 or so times now and I havn't cracked the glass yet, as a back up I have a stainless 6" tri-clamp blanking plate just incase.

Thats an awesome idea mate, two still styles built into one! Might be a future project for me. In the past I have ran the column with no ceramic beads and the outlet tap wide open, it gave me a much lower ABV (65%) and full flavour from the rum wash I made, unfortunately it wasn't super efficient without an outlet condenser. I like your idea better! 👍🏼

@@harbourbuilt3891 i fully understand your process, by operating your column without packing and your liquid management valve wide open, you "castrated" your reflux stil a bit. Indeed you will collect lots of aroma doing so .. But... to get maximum flavors out of it my "short track" potstill mode is indeed the better option. You're right though about the low(ish) ABV in potstil- mode. I have 3 condensers incorporated in my stil # SS 304 deflegmator coil in the very top (bokakob type) # a smaller SS 304 Liebig condenser for further cooling down the already condensed and collected alc. # a larger final condenser (copper) for the potstill short track. In my configuration It's possible to feed the condensed alc from the small stainless steel into the larger final copper condenser. The connection done by a silicon flexible hose. The reason for that is that i bought some ready made stainless steel stil components directly from distillex@ - china. The 2*column and the larger final condenser i made myself of 2"copper pipe. Instead of ceramic beads or copper wool, I use self- made 15 mm short pieces of 10 mm copper pipe which i fill into my column approx 35-40 cm high. The flow resistance is low. copper surface is high. Catalistic function. is excellent. All fittings tri clamps, so modifications are a piece of cake. The same is true for cleaning and flushing. Good luck for you!!

I think you're correct about the temperature, once it cooled down the next morning I noticed the ABV had dropped. My measuring technique isnt the best, my first few messurements after the heads, the alcometer was reading well above 100% which i figured it was due to the temperature being too high. I may need to look at building an outlet cooler for a more accurate reading. Thanks for the comment mate, I have some room for improvement 👍🏼

@@harbourbuilt3891 You've done a great job with the build mate! Getting anything over 94% is awesome, and I reckon you're close to azeotrope with that setup and column length. I love your coolant setup! A small Liebig product condenser to reduce the outlet temp is a good idea, and with almost freezing cooling water, you wouldn't need it to be too long. My old boka spat out product at around 50 degrees C before I added a small copper Liebig. Great setup over-all mate! Cheers.

Check out Jesse's youtube channel 'Still It' He covers all the info you need from start to finish.

They are a very strong engine, considering it has been abused, running 20+ psi boost for the past 4 - 5 years, it has done really well! If they are looked after you will get 500,000+ kms easy.

@@harbourbuilt3891 yeah it always impresses me how time and time again i see them with around 4-500,000km still running purring along

Hey mate, if you scroll down in the comments, ive put a description on how i did the indicators, basically use a razor knife to cut around the seem, as it is plastic welded not glued, then when your done use a 2 pack epoxy glue like Araldite to rejoin them.

@@harbourbuilt3891 thank you so much mate

It was one of my first videos and i stuffed up the audio, sorry mate. You can find the un edited version at the end of my 'diesel LPG burnout gone wrong' video.

@@harbourbuilt3891 ahah yeah classic nar all good mate 👌

Haha thats an idea! 🤣 its suprisingly slow, stable burning fuel when in liquid form. Only issue is if it isnt cooled enough, it will start venting vapour and becomes explosive, bye bye to my shed💥😬

The projectors I used were 2.5. 3 inch will also fit, you may have to trim the bottom of the projector outer plastic cover to allow it to sit square.

@@harbourbuilt3891 Thanks! I actually have the GU series 5. I wonder if the 3" will fit better on it. thanks anyway!

Hey mate, I used a sharp stanley blade to cut around the seem, it took a fair bit of cutting as it is platic welded together not glued, after cutting a grove into the seem it helps it break away nicely when gentally pryed apart. When your ready to put it back on, use a 2 pack epoxy resin like Araldite to join it back together.

Nice mate, I got mine open now how about an install video on the wires 😅 😆 I got similar projectors the yanfunya ones and got no idea what to do with them? How did you get the globe to work with a h4 plug?

Haha it happens to the best of us! Strip it down, build it up and go for round 2 😂

If you do all the work yourself, it can range from $4000 - $10000 AUD. This includes all the fabrication, engineering, panel and paint. The price depends on how nice you want the finish to be.

I end up getting a low km silver top TD42, swapped all the turbo and fuel pump over to it. I have plans to freshen up the top end, get a bigger turbo and fuel pump in the near future. The gas has been disconnected untill those mods have been done.

Ebay head lights mate.

@@harbourbuilt3891 have you seen anyone do it with stock s3 headlights and still blacking them out?

I believe they are the same process as doing the ebay lights. Not much different about them.

I have definitely learnt alot since this build, there are alot of tricks to the trade, its good to share our ideas and knowlege, thanks for the advice mate.

Hey mate, yeah the owner of this GQ spoke to the engineer prior to get a rough guideline. Once it was finished the engineer inspected it prior to any body filler or paint. They were very happy with the way it was finished off. Most windscreen shops will custom cut a double glazed window, with a universal seal, fitted for less than $200. Hope that helps 👍🏼

And it can also be used mixed with diesel, what’s your point

You don’t know what you’re talking about.

Im due for another 4wd trip soon, so stay tuned for new videos, subscribe to my channel if you havnt already 👍🏼

They are impressive for an engine with standard interals, originally naturally aspirated.

Western Australia

Hey mate, the chop and all the fab work of the cab, painted in primer... most companies would charge $4500 plus. To do all the work yourself if you allowed $500 plus your time, just for the cab not including paint. Other costs to consider would be fabricating the tray mounts, any chassis bracing you might want done at the same time, building the tray, panel and paint work for the cab and tray, interior finishing touches, engineering costs. Hope that info helps 👍🏼

@@harbourbuilt3891 thanks for that mate! Been looking everywhere

🤘🏼 cheers mate.