I have a similar 2" copper reflux still on a kegg but with 1 major difference: I added a 2" straight tee into the column, with the branch valved-off when in reflux mode. When in potstill mode, I open the (butterfly) valve and all vapors condense in a Liebig condenser. This gives me the freedom to recuperate maximum aroma from the wash if I want to. I don't need the potstill mode for plain sugar wash but it's great for fermented fruits. Of course you distilling "fuel" only, might consider the same for making aromatic or non - aromatic high ABV fuels.
Thats an awesome idea mate, two still styles built into one! Might be a future project for me. In the past I have ran the column with no ceramic beads and the outlet tap wide open, it gave me a much lower ABV (65%) and full flavour from the rum wash I made, unfortunately it wasn't super efficient without an outlet condenser. I like your idea better! 👍🏼
@@harbourbuilt3891 i fully understand your process, by operating your column without packing and your liquid management valve wide open, you "castrated" your reflux stil a bit. Indeed you will collect lots of aroma doing so .. But... to get maximum flavors out of it my "short track" potstill mode is indeed the better option. You're right though about the low(ish) ABV in potstil- mode. I have 3 condensers incorporated in my stil # SS 304 deflegmator coil in the very top (bokakob type) # a smaller SS 304 Liebig condenser for further cooling down the already condensed and collected alc. # a larger final condenser (copper) for the potstill short track. In my configuration It's possible to feed the condensed alc from the small stainless steel into the larger final copper condenser. The connection done by a silicon flexible hose. The reason for that is that i bought some ready made stainless steel stil components directly from distillex@ - china. The 2*column and the larger final condenser i made myself of 2"copper pipe. Instead of ceramic beads or copper wool, I use self- made 15 mm short pieces of 10 mm copper pipe which i fill into my column approx 35-40 cm high. The flow resistance is low. copper surface is high. Catalistic function. is excellent. All fittings tri clamps, so modifications are a piece of cake. The same is true for cleaning and flushing. Good luck for you!!
You’ve got that thing fine tuned 👌🏻👌🏻 you could almost run a metered drip feed to a bowl of burning alcohol under it so apart from the coil pump it would be self sufficient 😂
Haha thats an idea! 🤣 its suprisingly slow, stable burning fuel when in liquid form. Only issue is if it isnt cooled enough, it will start venting vapour and becomes explosive, bye bye to my shed💥😬
The local homebrew shop had them custom cut out of 5mm thick glass, due to the heat expansion and horizontal load from the tri-clamp, the secret is to loosely install the clamp until the boiler is up to atleast 60°C or you see it starting to leak, then tighten the clamp enough for it to stop leaking. I have used this boiler atleast 10 or so times now and I havn't cracked the glass yet, as a back up I have a stainless 6" tri-clamp blanking plate just incase.
98%? I don't think so mate. Check the accuracy of your alcometer and the temperature you're taking the reading. The azeotropic composition of ethanol and water is 95.635% of ethanol and 4.375% of water by weight. Unless you have a molecular sieve, you can't get greater than approx. 95.6% of ethanol via distillation. If you're close to that, which it sounds you are, well done!
I think you're correct about the temperature, once it cooled down the next morning I noticed the ABV had dropped. My measuring technique isnt the best, my first few messurements after the heads, the alcometer was reading well above 100% which i figured it was due to the temperature being too high. I may need to look at building an outlet cooler for a more accurate reading. Thanks for the comment mate, I have some room for improvement 👍🏼
@@harbourbuilt3891 You've done a great job with the build mate! Getting anything over 94% is awesome, and I reckon you're close to azeotrope with that setup and column length. I love your coolant setup! A small Liebig product condenser to reduce the outlet temp is a good idea, and with almost freezing cooling water, you wouldn't need it to be too long. My old boka spat out product at around 50 degrees C before I added a small copper Liebig. Great setup over-all mate! Cheers.
Nice set up mate 💯👍
I have a similar 2" copper reflux still on a kegg but with 1 major difference:
I added a 2" straight tee into the column, with the branch valved-off when in reflux mode. When in potstill mode, I open the (butterfly) valve and all vapors condense in a Liebig condenser.
This gives me the freedom to recuperate maximum aroma from the wash if I want to. I don't need the potstill mode for plain sugar wash but it's great for fermented fruits.
Of course you distilling "fuel" only, might consider the same for making aromatic or non - aromatic high ABV fuels.
Thats an awesome idea mate, two still styles built into one! Might be a future project for me.
In the past I have ran the column with no ceramic beads and the outlet tap wide open, it gave me a much lower ABV (65%) and full flavour from the rum wash I made, unfortunately it wasn't super efficient without an outlet condenser. I like your idea better! 👍🏼
@@harbourbuilt3891 i fully understand your process, by operating your column without packing and your liquid management valve wide open, you "castrated" your reflux stil a bit. Indeed you will collect lots of aroma doing so .. But... to get maximum flavors out of it my "short track" potstill mode is indeed the better option. You're right though about the low(ish) ABV in potstil- mode.
I have 3 condensers incorporated in my stil
# SS 304 deflegmator coil in the very top (bokakob type)
# a smaller SS 304 Liebig condenser for further cooling down the already condensed and collected alc.
# a larger final condenser (copper) for the potstill short track.
In my configuration It's possible to feed the condensed alc from the small stainless steel into the larger final copper condenser. The connection done by a silicon flexible hose.
The reason for that is that i bought some ready made stainless steel stil components directly from distillex@ - china.
The 2*column and the larger final condenser i made myself of 2"copper pipe.
Instead of ceramic beads or copper wool, I use self- made 15 mm short pieces of 10 mm copper pipe which i fill into my column approx 35-40 cm high.
The flow resistance is low. copper surface is high. Catalistic function. is excellent.
All fittings tri clamps, so modifications are a piece of cake. The same is true for cleaning and flushing.
Good luck for you!!
Are you doing cuts (Heads Hearts Tails ) and then making lines of them ? Btw i love this set up Aussie proud
You’ve got that thing fine tuned 👌🏻👌🏻 you could almost run a metered drip feed to a bowl of burning alcohol under it so apart from the coil pump it would be self sufficient 😂
Haha thats an idea! 🤣 its suprisingly slow, stable burning fuel when in liquid form. Only issue is if it isnt cooled enough, it will start venting vapour and becomes explosive, bye bye to my shed💥😬
98%? did you check the temp of the alcohol coming off the still.
Could you explain to me privately how you make your ethanol? I’m trying to make my own ethanol (race fuel)
Check out Jesse's youtube channel 'Still It'
He covers all the info you need from start to finish.
You have a 6” Ferrel with a glass window… anything special? Tempered glass? What thickness?
The local homebrew shop had them custom cut out of 5mm thick glass, due to the heat expansion and horizontal load from the tri-clamp, the secret is to loosely install the clamp until the boiler is up to atleast 60°C or you see it starting to leak, then tighten the clamp enough for it to stop leaking.
I have used this boiler atleast 10 or so times now and I havn't cracked the glass yet, as a back up I have a stainless 6" tri-clamp blanking plate just incase.
98%? I don't think so mate. Check the accuracy of your alcometer and the temperature you're taking the reading. The azeotropic composition of ethanol and water is 95.635% of ethanol and 4.375% of water by weight. Unless you have a molecular sieve, you can't get greater than approx. 95.6% of ethanol via distillation. If you're close to that, which it sounds you are, well done!
I think you're correct about the temperature, once it cooled down the next morning I noticed the ABV had dropped. My measuring technique isnt the best, my first few messurements after the heads, the alcometer was reading well above 100% which i figured it was due to the temperature being too high. I may need to look at building an outlet cooler for a more accurate reading.
Thanks for the comment mate, I have some room for improvement 👍🏼
@@harbourbuilt3891 You've done a great job with the build mate! Getting anything over 94% is awesome, and I reckon you're close to azeotrope with that setup and column length. I love your coolant setup! A small Liebig product condenser to reduce the outlet temp is a good idea, and with almost freezing cooling water, you wouldn't need it to be too long. My old boka spat out product at around 50 degrees C before I added a small copper Liebig. Great setup over-all mate! Cheers.