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Thank you for your feedback! It is really helpful when it comes to making future videos and documents. I am glad to hear that you have had success with the flexible spray wand and I could not agree with you more about rinsing the tank after dumping. We do a lot of testing in a clear holding tank that is used by our research team and I have cleaned it using (as mentioned in the video) a variety of cleaning equipment. Since the tank is clear, I have had the advantage of seeing where the spray pattern is hitting and how effective it is at spraying down the walls, corners and ledges in the tank after dumping it. This is what the statements in the video are based off. With that being said, holding tanks come in all different shapes and sizes and this can lead to different outcomes when using different products. I commend you for doing what you are doing to stay on top of cleaning your black tank. Since you are consistent with rinsing after dumping and you are seeing results with the wand, I encourage you to continue doing what works for you. I did not have very good results with the flexible wand and had much better results with the ridged wand. I also have the benefit of a straight shot into most of our test tanks. For the test tanks we have with 45 degree bends, I have found that filling the tank with water after dumping (no matter which tool you use to get the water into the tank) with the black valve closed and then dumping it when it is full or nearly full does the best job at cleaning any residual waste or paper that was left behind from the initial dump. There are quite a few ways to rinse the black tanks but that way works best for us. Thanks again for the feedback! Happy camping!

Making a sensor cleaner that works well in a black tank requires a high quality blend of bacteria and enzymes in order to breakdown waste and toilet paper that often get stuck to the sensors and hang down into the water to close the circuit and show misreading at the control panel. Because of this, unfortunately, there is not a DIY version of black tank sensor cleaners that we can recommend. If you are having problems with the gray water holding tank sensors we recommend using around 20 ounces or more of Dawn Ultra poured down a sink in the RV followed by enough water to fill the gray water tank. Let that sit overnight (around 8 to 12 hours) and then dump the gray water holding tank. This has been the most effective way we have found to clean the gray water holding tank sensor though it may take a few tries to get them reading correctly again. We also recommend waiting a little bit of time after you dump any tank before checking the sensors. There is often enough moisture on the walls of the tank that will show that there is still liquid in the tank when there really is not. I hope this helps! Thank you for your question and happy camping!

Hello! You are correct, SHT means short typically somewhere in the wiring harness or at one of the wire connections to the sensors. For the most part, there is not a fuse associated with this circuit. The problem most likely is due to a ring terminal at the end of the wire harness as it connects to the sensor itself has broken free or the insulation around one of the wires has rubbed through and caused the wire to touch the RV frame. Since you are getting the SHT error for all three tanks, I am thinking that either the wire that supplies power (low voltage) or wire that completes the circuit to the control panel between the different tanks is at fault. The difficulty here is accessing the wire harness. Many RVs have panels and insulation that are intended to protect the undercarriage and the systems and tanks that are under the floor in the RV. This can make tracing down the wire at fault difficult but certainly not impossible. If you have an exposed undercarriage, it should be relatively easy to trace the wires from the different holding tanks and finding where the problem is. If the undercarriage is enclosed and you are uncomfortable with opening the panels or if RV is still under warranty, I would recommend taking it to an RV service center or having a certified RV technician come and find where the wiring issue is and make the repairs. I hope this helps! Best of luck to you! Thank you for your question!

Thanks for watching and commenting! Although we have been emailing about this, I did want to take the opportunity to reply here so hopefully it helps others who may be struggling with the same issue. Most often when an RV sensor panel is showing empty all of the time, even when you know for sure that there is liquid in the tank, wiring is at fault. It can be a ring terminal that has broken free from the lowest "ground" sensor or a wire has rubbed against something that causes the insulation to wear away and ground the wire which can cause the display to show empty all of the time. The difficulty here is getting access to the wiring itself. A lot of RVs have covers that help protect the undercarriage and these along with insulation is often needed to be remove to access and diagnose the wiring issue. It can be done but there is also no shame in having a certified RV technician do it for them. The good news is that replacement harnesses are relatively affordable and easy to order online. Hopefully this helps! Happy camping!

Couldn't agree with you more! Enzyme and bacteria based black tank treatments are what we refer to as "the gold standard" of RV holding tank treatments. They do by far the best job at breaking down waste and toilet paper. We do want to point out that not all enzyme and bacteria based holding tank treatments are created equal. We do lots testing in our facility and some do an excellent job at waste breakdown and others do hardly anything at all. Our RV Digest-It + Ultra Concentrate is clearly what we recommend but there are others out there that do breakdown waste and toilet paper... just not as quickly. Thanks for your comment! Happy camping!

@uniquecampingmarine Forget "gold standard", I refer to them as "REQUIRED equipment."

@@ColtonRMagby 👍That works for us as well! 👍

Hello! We have had success with two different methods: the first is to fill the towel bowl half full with water and then add a half cup of vinegar. Let that sit for about 30 minutes and then scrub at the stain with a silicon bristled brush. This is often all that you need to get the black to come off the toilet bowl. The second way to attack the black stain would be by filling the toilet bowl half way full of water and add a 1/4 cup of bleach to the bowl. Let this solution sit for 15 minutes and then scrub with a silicone bristled brush (so it will not scratch the bowl). This should take care of the stain but it is a good idea to do this right before dumping the tank as bleach can kill bacteria and enzymes in holding tank treatments. Once you are done getting the stain out of the bowl, flush plenty of water down into the black tank and then dump the tank and rinse. We hope this helps! Best of luck and happy camping!

For sure, thank you for your comment! We ONLY recommend this when you are using your RV and it is parked at the campground (stationary).

@uniquecampingmarine Or at home, if you plan on using it there.

@@jamesknox1211 We couldn’t agree more! 🙌 Water is SO important in your black tank and using a bacteria and enzyme based product will break down the toilet paper to help avoid problems. Happy RVing!!

@uniquecampingmarine only thing I've found that will not break down is feminine hygiene products.

@@jamesknox1211 We only recommend flushing human waste, urine, and toilet paper. It’s easy to remember - only flush the 3 P’s: Poo, Pee, (toilet) Paper. Haha!

Keen eye! We use a lot of B-roll when making videos so that is very possible. We do our best to try and make the videos as educational and accurate as we can but there are definitely times where not every shot lines up perfectly. We will continue to try and get the best footage we can but as with every thing in life mistakes happen. Thanks for commenting!

@@paulanderson6434 Thank you - we are so glad this video helped. If you have any questions, just let us know! 😁

You bring up a great point! It is a very good idea to have someone else with you when you are winterizing an RV. It can be very easy to miss a step or forget to run a fixture (I am guilty of missing the outdoor shower) and having someone there makes it got quicker as you mentioned and can help you remember all of the steps. Thank you very much for commenting and bringing this up! Happy camping!

@uniquecampingmarine My pleasure. Happy camping to you as well.

That is a great question! The antifreeze we recommend is liquid propylene glycol which is non-toxic and it is what is used in food products and pharmaceuticals. We still recommend flushing out the water lines with plenty of fresh water when you de-winterize the RV. The other school of thought for RV winterization is to blow out the water lines of the RV with an air compressor. There is a potential of blowing out one way valves and other fittings if the the system were to become over pressurized, but some people prefer that to anti-freeze. Simply draining the system can leave water in fittings which can still be enough to freeze, expand and break the water fittings, so we recommend either the anti-freeze or blowing out the water lines with an air compressor. Hopefully this helps! Thank you so much for your question! Happy camping!

@@SeekingCre8tion Thank you for your comment, we are always happy to help! 😊 Nothing better than a clean gray tank!

@@davidjoker1023 Good catch! You are correct! There would need to be water in the bottom of the tank that is touching the negative or ground sensor and the toilet paper would need to be hanging from a higher sensor and touching the water or the sensor itself in order to close the circuit. We go into greater detail about this in another video. If you are interested please check it out!

@@davidjoker1023 You can find the second video here. th-cam.com/video/bmimEdijvBk/w-d-xo.htmlsi=0GuUzShCzibmGhPw

Great question! When it comes to black tanks, even on an older RV, we recommend deep cleaning them to give them a solid restart with Clean-It. Fill your tank completely full with water and add a full bottle of Clean-It to the black tank and allow as much time as possible to sit. There is no amount of time that is too long. Time is the real magic here. If you can give it a week or more that would be ideal. After enough time has passed, dump the black tank and rinse it thoroughly. We recommend rinsing with the black tank valve closed and allowing the tank to fill as full as possible and then opening the valve. This should breakdown any waste and toilet paper that may have been left behind by the previous owners, leaving you with a clean, blank slate to start your camping adventures with! We hope this helps! Happy camping!

Baking soda and vinegar actually neutralize each other when mixed, so we tend to recommend this Dawn and water method. But hey, if that works for you it works for you! Happy camping!

Great question! Yes, there are several electrical things that can cause a black tank sensor array to read empty. If a ring terminal were to break off from the sensor stud, then this could cause the sensors to show empty. There have also been times where the insulation on the wire harness has worn through, causing the wires to become grounded to the RV chassis, which can show an empty reading at the control panel. It is also possible that there can be an electrical failure at the control board itself. This can sometimes be from a loose wire solder connection. Unfortunately, the movement of an RV driving down the road can certainly lead to some interesting electrical issues when it comes to RV sensors. Hopefully this helps! Thanks so much for your question!

Yes, you are correct. In order for the circuit to be complete, something conductive will need to be closing the circuit between any one of the above sensors to the liquid that is touching the "ground" sensor. We go into deeper detail about this in this video: th-cam.com/video/bmimEdijvBk/w-d-xo.htmlsi=x2myA3MD_sVSeDoc Please have a look if you are interested! Good eye by the way! Thanks for leaving a comment!

Thank you! It is true that we did not mention the freshwater holding tank in this video. They have a similar sensors if not identical to those used in the black and gray water holding tanks. When freshwater sensors misread, it is typically because of hardwater deposits and calcification. As of now, we do not have a good way to clean freshwater sensors to remove the deposits and calcification. Typically, the sensors just need to be replaced all together. Hopefully this info helps you with your own RV! Thanks for commenting and making mention of the freshwater sensors!

We do not recommend using RV Digest-It Plus to winterize your RV. We instead recommend using a propylene glycol based RV specific antifreeze for winterizing your RV. Thank you for your comment! Here is a link to a video about how to winterize your RV: th-cam.com/video/P3EpOyD_jk4/w-d-xo.htmlsi=A7xmbyQAUCnk4kp0

Hello! Thank you for subscribing and for leaving a comment! Before you replace the sensors on any of your tanks, it is a good idea to do some diagnosing first. When you press the button and hold it down for any of the tanks, does the Empty light illuminate or are all of the lights completely out? If none of the lights come on then you may have a loose wire connection at the board from the incoming power and that will need to be addressed first. If the Empty light comes on and nothing else, and you are sure that you have some liquid in the tank, then you may still have a wiring issue somewhere in between the tank and the control panel. If you have an exposed under carriage on your RV and you can see the holding tanks, then you can check the wires as they connect to the sensors themselves to see if any of the ring terminals have broken free or are loose. If you do have a covered undercarriage, then this will be much more difficult as you will most likely need to remove large coroplast panels and possibly insulation. Sometimes having a certified RV tech help you with the diagnosis can be very valuable in this situation. Many times, especially on older RV, wiring is the problem rather than dirty or broken sensors. I hope this helps! Please feel free to respond if you would like further help diagnosing the issue!

@@uniquecampingmarine wow thank you for such in-depth response to my comment. I really appreciate it. I will check what you have mentioned and if I have any success, I will let you know. Once again again, thanks and I’m looking forward to more of your videos.

@@tomwilliam5118 Happy to help! Please do let us know what you find. It can be super helpful for others who may be struggling with the same issue!

@@uniquecampingmarine once again thanks for replying that really means a lot to me. Not too many channels that I watch reply, but I understand everybody is busy. I definitely will do that. It may be sometime till I get to it. It’s in the shop for some minor repairs I’ll let you guys know and maybe even take a video of how I fix the problem if I can find someone to help video it. Thanks again.

@@tomwilliam5118 A video would be super cool but don’t feel bad if it doesn’t work out. Best of luck with the other repairs as well!

Great question! At the time I replaced it, the gasket was around 6-7 years old. Them amount of time that a gasket is still useful can vary greatly given the amount of use of the RV and toilet. I suspect that I wore ours out by propping the valve open and holding in in place with a flashlight one too many times hahaha. Thanks for asking! Happy camping!

Absolutely! 🙌 We always recommend leaving your grey water valve open when you're connected to full hookup! Thank you for your comment and happy RVing!! 🚌❤️

Hello! When you replace the sensors in any of the holding tanks in your RV, we do not recommend using plumbers grease, silicone or anything else to keep waste from sticking to them. Doing so will most likely cause some sort of an issue, either from a sealing standpoint or from the potential of the grease coming off the sensor and causing a weird trail that may close a circuit and show a misreading sensor on the control panel. The backing nut on the sensor stud should make a water tight seal to the tank and no other lubrications or sealants should be required. Thank you so much for your comment and happy camping!

Sorry to hear that you are having such a rough go with your gray tank sensors! It is possible that you may have a broken or grounded wire. One way to check that would be to empty the gray tank and leave the valve open for a long enough time to allow all of the moisture to evaporate. Then check the sensor again. If it is showing anything other than empty then you most likely have a wiring issue. Some RVs have exposed undercarriage and if that’s the case with yours then it is pretty easy to find and fix the problem. If you have a sealed/ insulated undercarriage, then you may need to take it to a certified RV technician to get it diagnosed and repaired. Sometimes the sensors themselves have too much calcium or other water deposits on them and they just need to be replaced. Hopefully this helps to put you on the right track to finding and fixing your RV! Best of luck to you and happy camping!

@@uniquecampingmarine Thank you for the suggestions. I will give them a try.

Great question! If you have verified that the tank is empty and you have allowed some time (at least 24 hours) for the tank to dry and you are still getting 1/3 full then you most likely have a wiring issue for the sensors. It can be wires that have worn through the insulation and grounded or one or more of ring terminals have broken off. If you are getting this reading after having just emptied the tank and have not allowed ample time for the tank to dry, then it could be a piece of still wet toilet paper that is closing the circuit from the 2/3rds full sensor to the ground. If that is the case than a cleaning will take care of it. It really comes down to making sure the tank is dry before testing to truly diagnose the source of the problem. Hopefully this helps! Happy camping!

When tank sensors are showing empty and you know for sure that the tank is full (or has something in it) there is almost certainly a wiring issue. Fortunately, since your RV is under warranty, it should be relatively easy for a service center or technician to repair. I suspect that it is a wire that pulled free from a ring terminal or a grounded wire. Either way, it is certainly fixable. Hopefully this helps! Thank you for your question!

Thank you so much for your feedback! I am glad that it helped you. We will keep trying to be as thorough as we can in these videos! Thanks again and happy camping!

Great question! Yes, it is safe to use in plastic tanks. We have done long term testing in plastic holding tanks and there was no damage done what so ever. This not only includes the plastic tank but also the seals and gaskets that hold sensors in place as well as the plumbing fittings and connections. Thank you for asking!

Absolutely! I am just happy that it helps you out. It has been very interesting getting to test these different formulas in order to discover which ones work and which ones don't. We will keep at! Thanks again!

Thank you so much for your compliment and for commenting! You are absolutely correct! I cut open the red connector in this video: th-cam.com/video/bmimEdijvBk/w-d-xo.htmlsi=GhXkFv_FHY8cWNco and I ohm out all of the resistors with a multimeter to show the different resistances. If you are interested in a deeper dive then please check it out!

Thank you! That’s a great suggestion! We have a video planned that will show not just how the RV toilet connects to the black tank but also how to install a new toilet in an RV as well. Keep an eye out for that in the future!

Great question! Typically when it is a plastic fitting and a plastic nut, you do not need to use thread tape or sealant for the connection. Often times if you do use thread tape it can actually cause leaks versus preventing them. Thanks so much for asking!