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Wow this was painful to watch! Right from the get go is why you had so many problems, those big washers that you have used for the wheels are used for the feet and then would solve the issue of ur tank not being level. People need to like this comment to keep it at the top so that they dont make the same mistake u made. Would help everyone if u watched this video instead! th-cam.com/video/f7R39PX6nfs/w-d-xo.htmlsi=P_sIsBowPCi3kS0q

Absolutely awesome.

😴😴😴😴😴😴

Great video, thanks for info on paint & primer too!

Loved this detail, thank you. I haven't used Wellseal since rebuilding Gardner engines back in the 70's. I'm going to buy a new compressor. As I'm not spraying , I'm tempted to stay with a piston design. It also shows what I know, I thought these were diaphragm compressors. I’m just not sure about longevity or if they can be overhauled like a piston one can.

You've done a beautiful job on that vice, a pleasure to use it now, I bet

this is

looks like a great event, I hope to be turning up to the one this sunday🙏

i had four Zephyrs as an apprentice in the seventies, two Mk one's, and two Mk two's, my pride and joy was my 1962 Mk two convertible, it was pristine and had all the extras, including overdrive, i often wonder what happened to it after i sold it, i really wish i still had it.

A joy to watch thank you

My first car was a Zephyr/Zodiac. RLK 550. Straight six, bench seat, column change. Built like a tank. Loved that car.

Going by the label on the epoxy it looks German. If so it would sound like meepa.

Great video!

Great review. Do you know what size thread the couplings are? I know they are XF Euro but cant find the thread size anywhere.

Thank you you have solved a problem for an old No 23 Record vice I picked up. A couple of parts missing fron the drive mechanism 👍

Very good video. Very informative. You really can learn something new every day.

Thanks, very helpful

Hi, I bought one of these Hyundai 25L compressor from EBay, for the silent running, arrived without straps, box slightly damaged, unpacked it and assembled it, plugged it in the wall socket, and it went “BANG” and tripped the electricity, I thought it was me done something wrong so I rechecked it and plugged it in again, same, a dead short in the motor or something, disappointed but sending it back, thinking of going to sue for negligence, I have a pacemaker and if I touch it , it would of killed me, I watched DPD throw it on top of the other parcels in the back of the van on top of everything else on its side, no wonder its faulty.

Clran with acetone

if these are at all similar to regular spray paint, I find even though the back of the can states "dry" in 24 or 48 hours, my experience has been that I have to wait a few weeks before the paint seems to have fully 'cured', and is much more scratch resistant than it is after 24 or 48 hours. It's a long time to wait though :-\

Just my 2c - I do weld vehicles full time for a living - I now use Tec13 gloss black aerosol as my go-to "weld through primer". Won't bore you with the "why" but I find it streets ahead of any of the dedicated weld-throughs & it causes me zero issues. Have had vehicles stand for extended periods after & have not had any rust issues plus the burn is very low & contained when welding. Tried them all, like this stuff the best.

In the usa some of us like CoperCote weld through spray can...Better welding...

Been using Upol copper weld thur it's been the best but you must clean up the weld spot to bare metal a broken drill bit or small end mill works great for that...biggest thing is after the car is done the use of cavity way in all seams will keep the car rust free...also fluid film and woolwax have excellent products to this end....

My first go to for rust removal is always electrolysis. If you are going to use an acid, phosphoric acid is best and it converts rust into the unreactive substance if iron phosphate. This really gets down into microcracking invisible to the naked eye and prevents later rust problems beneath the new paint. It does leave the metal with a greyish finish which looks great if you are after the bare metal finish.

Hi Steve. I've tried a few weld-through primers over the years, this is my take. Although they are zinc rich, which gives the electrical conductivity, they have really poor adhesion. Some actually say they are not to be used as a basis to receive paint. A good channel to watch as well as Dom's is "Dave's Garage" He swears by Halfords weld-through being the best he has tested. For us DIY welders who do not have a spot welder, then a good plug weld is only achieved by scraping away the weld-through to expose clean metal wherever you are welding. So, my way, not the only or necessarily correct way of doing things is this. Clean the metal as thoroughly as you can be bothered to. Aqueous degreasers are the best, because the oils go into suspension rather than smeared about. Coat the metal with a good epoxy product up to about 10mm from the point of welding. Rustbuster's (www.rust.co.uk) Epoxy Mastic is the best I have come across to date. You won't scratch that off with your nail, particularly if you can be bothered to give it 2 coats. Give the bare metal that is to be welded a coat of weld-through, again, Rustbuster do a couple of 2 pack weld-throughs which I haven't tried yet but I bet are the best out there, and weld. Hope this helps somebody

PlastiKote - Trade Cold Zinc Spray Primer from Toolstation is a good zinc weld through primer in my experience, currently about 8.99 for a 400ml can

What about a weld test ?

The big problem is believing panel wipe is actually preparing the surface, it's not, all it is doing is spreading oils around the surface leaving a monofilm on the surface. Just scrub the surface with wet Vim or Ajax, dry it off and paint, you will be astonished. Look for an old video on TH-cam called 'Building Prototypes Dan Gelbart part 6 of 18 Coatings'. It's an absolute revelation when it comes to understanding the science behind surface adhesion. All these years, all of the painting videos on TH-cam from so-called expert car painters and restorers and they are all wrong about panel wipe. I'd recommend anyone painting metal watch it.

Very nice job , im currently doing a num 23.

Nice! ❤🤩

engineers blue ?

Of course (4:03) cars weren't fitted with rear-view mirrors back then. lol

Hi while its pumping up can you still use it for the odd blast if there is enough pressure

Nice video Steve - beautiful cars!

Just ordered one of these on Ebay for £193. Bargain. Was on a deal. Ive been using a traditional nail/pin welded the past few months. And decided to now upgrade to this 😊

Ptfe tape on fittings

Salut my friend super car super video subscribe subscribe 👍👍🏃‍♀️🏃‍♀️🚗🚗 i have all 1:43

All those gorgeous petrol fumes. Nostalgia at its best.

Just an observation, welding and grinding with a flamable carpet on the floor is a fire waiting to happen as well as welding without gloves is very dangerous.

2mm thick to 0.6mm just like that

What a shame you didn't show how the original MacPherson strut was located longitudinally by the anti roll bar. This fact seems to have become forgotten and is now omitted from modern engineering textbooks.

Great to see you have not painted the letters over. So many projects ‘fall at the last fence’ due to that.

Excelente trabajo, felicitaciones, saludos desde Chile 🇨🇱

I don't think a lot of people know this but that drill thing he was using with that metal discs it actually makes the metal shrink I don't know what it's called but I know what it does nice to see those old tools being used

That's a mark 1 zephyr or counsel.rear guard.👀🇦🇺

I cant even get my windshield clean lol this is awesome

Will The grid lights used for PDR work the same as the dye

18.minutes and not one pic of my car lol

Great meet as always. Some truly beautiful cars. A lot of passion and love gone into building them and keeping these old cars on the road. Standard or modified. It's great to see them being used.

Always enjoy my visit to Buckingham, thank you for taking me along.