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I personally haven't noticed a purple hue to it. To me, it looked great in the sunlight in person, and everyone that's seen it in person has thought the same.

Sorry for the late reply. I've long since traded in the car that these were on. But they were still fine when I traded it in, and by that point, the struts had been on for at least 2 years, if I recall correctly.

I don't see why not. As far as specific sizing, you'd have to play around with it a bit since fonts have different height to width ratios My recommendation after applying the wording would then be to seal the letters in with some sort of durable clearcoat to ensure they don't get peeled or picked away. Thank you for watching!! Sorry for the late reply.

Thank you and thanks for watching! Sorry for the late reply.

Glad it was helpful! Thank you and thanks for watching! Sorry for the late reply.

No need to apologise, you were quick 👍

Thank you and thanks for watching! Sorry for the late reply. To your question, I honestly don't know as I've not tried to make lettering that small. If the machine could cut that small, the trick then would be weeding out the excess vinyl. I just may have to try and find out...

Thank you and thanks for watching! Sorry for the late reply.

Thank you and thanks for watching. Sorry for the late reply. Yes, good tip as well if you have a razor available.

Thanks for watching, and sorry for the late reply. I personally have never had issues with VVivid holding up if it's been prepped and applied properly. Glad to hear it's the same for you!

Thanks for watching and sorry for the late reply. For your questions, the real answer to both is "it depends." For the first question, I've had wrap on interior last for 4+ years, and it would have stayed on longer had I not taken it off myself to change it out. It "all depends" on a lot of different factors on how long it will actually stick...was the surface prepped well? Is the surface a "high energy" substrate (i.e. smooth and glossy, vs mattte/oily/textured)? What brand vinyl is applied? What are the environmental conditions the vinyl will be subject to (for example, a car that's kept outside in Arizona vs a car that garage kept in a more temperate area). For your second question, that also depends on what it is you're applying the vinyl to. But the general answer is "no," the original color underneath shouldn't be affected.

Thanks, and thanks for watching. Sorry for the late reply.

Thank you and thank you for watching. Sorry for the late reply. Hopefully you've found my other videos and they've been helpful as well. I do have a couple more videos in the works that I'm hoping to upload in the near future.

Sorry for the late reply. Thank you and thanks for watching!

Thank you and thanks for watching! Sorry for the late reply.

Thank you and thanks for watching! Sorry for the late reply.

Thank you and thanks for watching! Sorry for the late reply. You are absolutely correct. Cleaning and prep is a key part of any vinyl wrap installation. As far as adhesion promoter, I'm not against it, but I am more in the school of thought of only using it only as necessary (i.e. other methods aren't working) and uses sparingly.

Hi! Thanks for watching, I appreciate it! To your question, yes, if you're using automotive vinyl wrap. I'm assuming that you'd probably wrap it in a base color, then add the rings/stripes after.

@@ColorChangeCustoms Yes, that's exactly what I was thinking. Thanks so much!

Sure thing!

Not sure what that means, but... thanks??

Thanks for watching! I greatly appreciate it! I try to make videos that I wish were around when I started learning, so hopefully this video was helpful. Cheers!

Well thank you for watching! I greatly appreciate it!

Hi, and thanks for watching! Unfortunately, I haven't made a video on calibrating the Cameo yet. Honestly, when I do calibrate my Cameo 3, I just follow the calibration instructions in Studio. It's a bit of work, but not that hard. Not as glamorous as making stickers, but it's definitely worth it to ensure your machine is cutting where it's supposed to. All that being said, maybe I'll have to do a how to calibrate video!! :-)

@@ColorChangeCustoms Ohhh thank you for the input, I'll try it on my own then and do my best ! But I'll definitely watch your video if you do it because I personnally get confused about the instructions and seeing someone do it at the same time as me would be incredibly helpful 😁 but don't feel pressured to do it just for me ahah I don't know if other people struggle with that process also 🤷‍♀️

Hi, thanks for watching, and good question. You could cut through two layers of vinyl with the knifeless. However, in my experience, it's been "safer" to knifeless tape twice. The first is that depending on the knifeless tape you use (design line or finish line), the filament may not cut through both layers cleanly, depending on the films. This is especially true of Design Line knifeless, which has a very flexible, but very fragile cutting filament which is know for breaking very easily. Not so much the case with Finish Line series though. the other is that you have to manage your overlaps so as to not have so much vinyl to "dig out" after you've cut through the layers of knifeless. If you have too much overlap, you may have a lot of vinyl under the bottom layers that in my experience, you have to lift the vinyl edges you just cut with the knifeless, which risks stretching the now cut-to-shape vinyl edges. This process now risks overly distorting the cut edge, which may not lay back down in the shape it was cut. So yes, you can just cut once, but you have to be aware of possible issues when doing so. Great question!!

@@ColorChangeCustoms appreciate the detailed feedback

Thank you for watching!!

Thank you so much!! I appreciate it!!

Definitely! The ultra gloss is super smooth and paintlike, most people that see it in person think it's gloss paint! Thank you for watching!

Thanks for watching! Yeah, I thought about the back windows, but be careful as you definitely cannot see through this film. I did find out the hard way that the torch is definitely too much LOL! I'm so used to using a torch daily at work I forget about the heat gun often. Thanks again for watching!!

LOL!!! Thank for watching, I appreciate it!!

Thank you so much! I'm glad my video was helpful...Cheers!!

Sure thing. If i recall, we just used knifeless tape, put along the edge of the first vinyl piece, on the vinyl side. So after cutting the overlapping piece of vinyl, knifeless leaves about a 1/16"-slightly-less-than-1/8th" overlap.

Glad it was helpful! Thank you for watching! Be sure to check out my other videos for using your Cameo as well! cheers!

Me too 😅😅😅

You could try to patch it, if the pattern works (like a wood grain). If it's not patterned where a patch could blend in, you may have to replace the entire panel, unfortunately.

Thanks for watching! Much appreciated!

Glad you liked it! Thank you for watching!

Sorry about that, I thought I had noted which Cameo I was using. Maybe I just mentioned it really quickly. I'm using a Cameo 3 in particular.

In my experience, one side goes better because it favors your dominant side (i.e. if you're right or left handed). Based on what you've commented, after you've got your vinyl anchored at your starting point, heat the entire rest of the vinyl up, as evenly as possible then, in one big stretch, doing it in triangular fashion (you pulling straight back while your arms are pulling up and down) go around the entire light. If done correctly, it should lay relatively glassed over the center part with horizontal wrinkles on the top and bottom of the center of the headlight, which then you can pull the wrinkles out perpendicularly (hopefully that made sense). I do have a couple of other headlight tinting videos that demonstrate what I described, so check those out if you have a chance to see if those help. It can be frustrating sometimes, but you'll get it for sure!!

Thanks for watching!! Much appreciated!