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I ended up getting an Evolution Chop Saw and it is an order of magnitude better. This works well going slow, but the Evolution makes a much cleaner cut faster.

@@WeekendWrenchTurner oh):

@@WeekendWrenchTurner how much does the evolution cost?

It is the 14" that I don't see on their site any longer. Paid right around $280 out the door (online).

@@WeekendWrenchTurner ok thnx

A previous test from the person who made these showed that the added leverage was needed in order to firmly engage the Mustang Cobra calipers. I agree too, since it is not possible to lock up the rears with this configuration at all. Good question and thanks for watching 👍

Thank for watching 🍻👍

Heck yeah! Thanks for watching 👍

🤣😂🤣😂

Mucho gracias por favor 👍

Unfortunately, it is no longer available. Check the link in the description as there had been discussion of someone else taking over production. Thanks for watching!

Thx for the reply! I was able to check out that link. What about the emergency break kit? I didnt see a link for that? And when I tried to click on the link in your part two video i didnt pull up… again thx so much!

I very well may have been taken down ☹️

It very well could be your cause. Thanks for watching 👍

@@WeekendWrenchTurner do you think it’ll be ok if I don’t use to reassemble the darn thing? The washer I mean…

Not sure about that. Not sure what the bolt pattern is. Thanks for watching 👍

I'm fortunate to have several metal supply shops near me. Plates like that I can find in the scrap bin for 15¢ a pound 👍 Thanks for watching!

Condenser too*

Absolutely, it will help your compressor life immensely!!

Thanks for the feedback and thanks for watching 👍👍

LEDs won't "pop" if they are powered in a reverse polarity. Incadensincent bulbs don't have a polarity, so you'd be okay for either one on those 👍

Unfortunately, they are not available as a kit anymore. You could use the link to the T4R.org post and possibly piece a kit together, but the conversion bracket is hard to come by.

They are sealed bearings, so they don't need to be greased up, but I do put a little tiny bit on the outside race to help them go in 👍

@@WeekendWrenchTurner thank you for the reply. I don’t have a press like yours but I could take the bearings out… I have no idea how I will put them back in 🤣

I've found that PartSouq to be the best site to get stuff. You have to plan for shipping though, as even just a few items will cost a bunch to ship.

If you're talking about the one at the 8 minute mark or so, that's the generic harbor freight three jaw puller 👍👍

I believe I was using the impact driver in this video with an adapter for 3/8" sockets 👍

Thanks for watching🤟

It uses a simple yellow RCA connection that most capable head units can use for the signal. Hope that helps. Cheers 👍

@@WeekendWrenchTurner do you know any 7” or 10” dash cam that is compatible with this back up camera. Would you drop the link if you know anyone please? I can’t seem to find one

Having a spare parts bin is a must!! Thank for watching 👍👍

I wish I made these. Could probably make a bit if shipped internationally 😁

@WeekendWrenchTurner what do u mean. I'm in the states, are u not? I went to the forum linky. Me and a friend were thinking about doing this.... thnx for your reply

These are not a product I've ever produced, sorry if that's wasn't clear 👍👍

Thanks for watching 👍

@@WeekendWrenchTurner hey I noticed your rear bump stop what brand are those?

Those are from Sonoran Steel's 3.5" rear end lift kit. Great company to do business with 👍

Yeah, unfortunately these were in short supply originally and I think I made it worse for him 😕

I've found waiting for a few mods/fixes and then ordering from PartsOuq.com makes shipping work out better than my local dealer. Small stuff I just source locally. Good question 👍

Good question. I suppose you could, but it does add a bit of risk for only a little bit of time savings. Not sure how much, but just made sense to do them one at a time for me. Thanks for watching 👍

That's an excellent tip!! I've been printing with PETG lately and I bet it works great!! Thanks for watching 👍

@@WeekendWrenchTurner PETG is a fantastic material for that, there are better materials but they are also way more money and way harder to print, they also release more toxins and so on. When printing a structural part like this make sure the layer orientation is according to the force flow within the part and use wider extrusion widths, so for instance I am using 0.8mm line width with a 0.4mm nozzle. This increases strength through better layer adhesion further. Also increase outer most perimeter instead of infill, the most outer layer is the most load bearing as well, thus hollow round bars etc. exists they are almost as strong as a filled bar but 90% less heavy and expensive. You are most welcome. I intend to use my vise to create small beads perpendicular to the bend lines to stiffen the corner further. This is very useful to increase strength for less weight and less money. I would also try to roll my own hinges, here I am not sure how the 3D print would hold up, maybe with lots of lubrication the print will hold up. Hinges can be expensive and honestly it would be just cool to make my own just for the fun on it. Maybe you can make a video for the hinge rolling or corner beads or some cool stamps and cutouts. You can also print more complex tool designs with moving brake parts for U channels and all sorts of cool stuff. I hope you try some of it out. If the 3D printed part fails there is still the possibility to make a zinc alloy metal cast, zinc melts at about 420°C and I can easily melt and cast that stuff at home on my camping bbq torch xD

Thank you for the great tips!!

Thanks for the kind words! And thanks for watching!!

If I recall, at the time it was about $65 for parts. Pretty sure I got them with a bunch of other parts from Partsouq, so shipping wasn't bad overall.

@@WeekendWrenchTurner , it's not that hard really after watching your vid. But for an extra 100 bucks I'll let some chinaman build mine. 🤣

Crank it and release it about 100 times. That'll get the self adjuster to do it's job 👍

@WeekendWrenchTurner Thank you very much for the fast response. I did exactly what you said, and now we are good!! Everything works great 👍

Right on!! Glad to help, gotta keep these rigs on the road 🚙

Yeah, I get asked a lot about this, but unfortunately that guy making them no longer does ☹️

Those early videos were rough! I had recently replaced the cylinders about 2 years earlier, so there was no need. Rebuilt the OEMs and spares🤟 Thanks for watching!

The truck was about 20 years old at that point. It was just time. Once the rubber starts to separate from the housing or the sleeve it's time to go. Thanks for watching!!

I would think it would fail at some point. The engineers at Toyota wanted it a certain way for a reason I would think. I've not heard of any failures but why risk it.

@@WeekendWrenchTurner thanks for the input.. i had a cornershop put in a new bearing a couple of years ago and there has been a slight knock when you jiggle the wheel at 12 and 6... a very small knock (maybe a mm or 2) but I am in the process of redoing it now that i have a 20-ton HF press without plates... so i wonder if this cornerShop installed the bearing backWards is why there has been a consistent knock ... the dealer told me it was because they re-used the hub and did not put a brand new 200$ to 300$ new hub in with the new OEM supplied bearing.. IDK!

I don't think a new hub is at all necessary, but it could be they torched it out rather than pressed it out and damaged the hub. I hope for your sake that is not the case.

No fan of Chad Kroger here 🤣😭

Thank you for watching 👍👍

You could probably get away with an arbor press. 20 tons is a bit overkill I admit. Thanks for watching 🍺👍

Maybe the local auto parts has a puller I can rent to get the bearings off. Will find out in a few hours. @@WeekendWrenchTurner

Let me know how it goes 👍👍

I was able to get the bearing off using two long pairs of needle nose pliers. I pried up between the cooling fins so as not to damage them. I sort of hit on the pliers like I was trying to pop the bearing off and it worked after about 8 slams on the plier handles. Two long screwdrivers could also work as pry bars and pop it off being careful not to damage anything. There is room under the bearing to try a puller but the one I have wouldn't work.

Good job!! Sounds like it would frustrate me, so kudos for getting after it 🍺🍺