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Do your headers leak where the slip joints are ? On the headers

That’s not repairing that’s changing repairing mean u take the struts apart then replace the seals then put it back together sir

How do you like it? I’m looking into getting the same clutch!

Any link?

Big up mi g

What psi when you start the car ??

Thanks brother, I was looking for something else but this video helped in an other way. Got a subscribe from me!

Engine Light came on ? after doing it on Mine how to we get rid of engine Light?

This wall be shitting for drag racing tho only good for road action

So the real question is. Are you satisfied?

Great content!! Blessings

I love your content. Thank you.

Props for doing that shit and recording for us at the same time ! 🫡🤘🏼

Thank you very much worked on my k series eg ! With eBay cables

hey i have one 05 and i think the module are from type r i do the connection but don’t work

How was the process for removing and reinstalling the new rack?

did this to my car, and now it won’t start. any idea on why? i did everything correctly

Would it pass smog in Ca if i install this kit? They get really picky lol

Good video bro. I have on rev9 on a Subaru G4.. still trying to figure out what would be the best adjustment damper setting to be as close as possible to the stock feel. What would be your suggestion with the rev9

may i ask whats the difference with this brand and the other motor mount brands for the rsx or k series

Thank you

What is your phone number

Link to the front lip set up

I use the same silicone water hose , what size temp sensor housing adapter are you using? If possible place the link so that I can purchase

Very nice

well done brother.. thanks for sharing

Thank you so much for this I’ve been chasing this issue for a while now you just solved my problem 🙏

In brief 1.Rotate to advance pistons to just engage with pads. 2.THEN adjust cable nut to 6 clicks, max. The console ajuster is ONLY to compensate for cable stretch.

Man, you are a life saver, I am 83, UK based & always done my own mechanics on my 2 cars and 2 large m/c's. I am currently doing a full caliper refurb. on my 2003 2l type S Civic. I was assured that these rear disc brakes were self adjusting (NOT by my garage). As you correctly show, this is NOT the case. It is critical to proceed as you show BEFORE adjusting the handbrake by the driver, or the cable adjustment will not compensate. I spent many hours investigating the thread mechanism at the rear brake, thinking it to somehow to be self adjusting. I very nearly bought a new pair of calipers....you have made my day, with yourr simple yet straightforward approach. Why is it that yours is the only video that shows this??? Btw, it is aukward to align the locating pin on the reverse of the inner pad, with the piston slot, I found. BRAVO!

Specs boss definitely ago try 😊

Yea general good move like the progress

By running a stage 2 cams did you use a rbc 50 degree vtc and did u not have to do valve to piston clearances

sweet build. Glad you showed the valvetrain upgrades because its really worth it over just a drop in cam. That valve spring compressor looked pretty easy to use too

Finally a proper video. It gives me confidence for when i install mine in my euro r accord

Will this effect the emissions at all? Also will it give a check engine light after delete?

Really good work man! Dig the new intake!!!

I have a 2015 civic si with the same issue. So are you saying I should be able to replace the rev 9 damper insert with a BC racing one? 280 length is option I am seeing. Nice machine btw.

Love how u keep di ting straight jamaican... real yaad man mechanic. Keep it up

thanks

I hear a 🇯🇲 yaad man voice.. love the content

i dont know if i missed it in the video but are you using stock ecu?

Ouch no lube , great power though

I love rev9.

You're amazing, this fixed my issue. I just drove around my car for the first time in 2 years . I've been building my Rsx-S since and I thought I was gonna need a rebuild. Thank you seriously I appreciate your information

Hey those crimps on the ends of the pipes don't really need to be there. But it would be better if they were. The crimps are there to give the clamp something to keep the hose from sliding off. If it's a naturally aspirated car like yours the crimps don't matter as much. But if your car has a turbo those crimps need to be there. I get that you needed to do what you needed to get it to fit right. But you can use a pair of wire crimping pliers to put a quick crimp in the hose. It's not a pretty fix but it works and is only seen when you take the hose off

How much power did he make with this i have this cam an cam gear im running the 02-04 tsx cams rn.

Could show u a next way too that me figure out

Good day bro. Am here in Jamaica with almost the same issue. I was considering to do the same thing with my two front Rev 9 version 2, and then I pounce up on your video. In my case tho I am experiencing a issue where I am getting a metal on metal knocking sound whenever I go over pums and the car dips. I don't see any oil leak on my Rev 9s but the mechanic said it may be the shocks bottomed out. They're on only 8 months now so I am not sure why that is happening to only the front. Is it holding up for you still?

What if it not hold at all can that way fix it bro ?

Nice video g