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The front two axles were placed in the chassis. The rear axle has the gear. When the chassis is placed between two halves of the jig and then pressed together everything goes together. Sorry for not being more clear as I explained in the video.

Glad that works for you. The stickiness of the couplers is caused by the mold release compound. In some cases it causes mild problems with the couplers and appearance to the car, engine, etc. To remove the mold release many use a hot hair dryer to dissolve it followed by a scrubbing with a warm water solution of a mild dishwashing detergent. This process works with varying degrees of success. In my case I tried numerous methods to remediate the sticky couplers,, i.e., silicone spray, WD40, mineral oil, the aforementioned hair dyer and detergent solution which worked in some cases. I finally resorted to a more permanent resolution as described in my video. Happy railroading and all the best. .

My wheel puller identical to the one you used in the video. I have used it for six wheel and eight wheel standard size wheels. The aluminum block's slots were not milled deep enough to bring the tips close enough for the flanges to get under the center hub of an 0-8-0. Any suggestion for what wheel puller to use for the 0-8-0 or other method if removing the hub? Thanks.

I don't think that would happen. It's the same as wrapping the nichrome around the wick which has been done since the 40's. The wick does get brownish from the heat of the resistor just like it does when wrapping the nichrome around the wick.

The wheel treads are worn out due to age or being cleaned polished with sandpaper. You have two options: Try using some coarse 80 grit sandpaper and sand across the tire to give it some roughness. The other option is to replace the wheels with Pulmor wheels.

It's real easy bend the sheet metal tang that the coupler is attached to upward or downward depending whether too high or to low. Don't use the coupler to bend it. Grasp the coupler where the pin goes through the tang and bend from there . Good luck.

Thank you very much!

Thank you. All the items pictured are for the 1956 5683RH set. I acquired them as a set.

@@timcoe6841 I too have purchased what was listed as a set only to find out later some components were substituted, 5542H The New Sunshine Freight Special is one I got fooled on. It had the 930 tuscan red Illuminated caboose instead of the 977 action caboose also tuscan red and illuminated. They look similar except for the number and the brakeman. I am hoping the seller just didn't know any better than I did when it was sold to me. Lesson learned, I now have reference books to use before I buy. I ended up purchasing the 977 at a later date from another seller now my 5542H (locomotives and rolling stock only) is correct. 4713 from 1953 to 1957 (Doyle & Deger) 1953 Type I (Chrome plated shells) and 1954 Type II (silver painted shells) had Chief Decal on the nose of the 470 & 473; on the sides at the bottom edge had American Flyer Lines in black lettering. The 471 had this black American Flyer LInes lettering twice on each side at the bottom edge. Two drive pins to attach the steps. No diesel roar. 4 position reverse unit. No Santa Fe black and white cross logo. 1955 Type III (silver painted shells) 4713 had Santa Fe Decal on the nose of the 470 & 473; on the sides at the bottom edge had Santa Fe in black lettering. The 471 had this black Santa Fe lettering twice on each side at the bottom edge. The 470, 471 & 473 also had Built By Gilbert in black lettering on the rear end of the side. Two drive pins to attach the steps. 4-position reverse unit and Diesel Roar & Horn. No Santa Fe black and white cross logo. 1956 Type IV (silver painted shells) 4713 had the same markings as the Type III plus the Santa Fe black and white cross logo was added and placed on the 470 & 473 cab sides under the window. Early Type IV had two drive pins to attach the steps; later Type IV had on drive pin and a plastic bump on the shell to attach the steps and keep them straight. 2-position reverse unit and Diesel Roar & Horn. There should be a red, yellow and black war bonnet on the sides of all shells, Chrome and Silver painted. Perhaps the original shell of the 471was damaged and had to be replaced by a previous owner and it was installed on the correct chassis. No matter what you still have a 4713 and a beautiful consist regardless of how it was put together. The main thing is that it appears to run really well and you are happy with it.

No i didn't do anything

Thanks for the info. I thought it was strange that it was a mixture of 1 and 2 rivet ladders but with all the variations with Gilbert you never know. I too use the Doyle book it is invaluable.

@@timcoe6841 Stranger still my understanding is that early '56 had two rivets on PA's then went to one rivet some time later in '56 then in '57 it started with one rivet and finished '57 with the ladders being plastic and part of the shell. I use Doyle's book, Joe Deger's 3 volume set of hard bound books and Robert Tufts reference book.

George, actually when I do an arduino project I put all the parts on a dedicated board in this case a 4x6" piece of 1/2" plywood as module. Mine also incorporates a mp3 player with a bell sound. If you listen carefully you can hear it. I also have an arduino that does a traffic signal and one that automates my accessories. Check them out on my channel

Layout is 12x6 the tunnel is about 2x2

That is actually shined. Repeated applications of Blue Magic and finally finished off with jewelers rouge on a buffing wheel. Persistence and patience

I ran a jumper from the track on the layout side to the track on bridge

At the time I made this video the arduino uno was about $5 on Ebay now about 9-10.

@@timcoe6841 thanx..looks like a fun project

@@timcoe6841 Can someone be very specific about what we need to complete this function?

@@marywagner6249 you need an Arduino Microcontroller, a relay module in this a 4 relay model (they come in 1, 2, 4, 8 and 16 relay modules) an MP3 sound player board optional for the scream. These parts are all available online, Amazon, Ebay, etc. The program code has to be written using the Arduino IDE (the editor for writing Arduino code which BTW is the C+ programming language) Basically, the program has to be written to assign the relays to the control pins of the Arduino. Then you write the code which essentially tells the relay to operate 40 times (the number of times you would press the button to make Gabe climb) then pause a few seconds , then operate a second relay to make him fall, a third relay to make the lights flash. Hopefully, this gives you a better understanding of what I accomplished. It's not a terribly complicated project but does require some wiring and computer skills.

I appreciate that! Thank you

You ca nget them from Portlines.com sorry for the tardy reply

Thanks for watching!

If you are on Facebook join anyone of the Flyer train groups. My favorite as I am an admin is American Flyer Trains

@@timscycling8068 thank you Tim I appreciate that.

There is a rubber tube between the smoke unit in the tender that runs through the boiler to the smoke stack

Yes. To make the signal alternate it has to be modified separating each bulb into it's own circuit instead of being strapped together. You also need a relay module.

What,?

Who was being emotional?

I purchased the insulators from Portlines.com hobby supply. The jig was purchased from a fellow at York Barry something or other sorry name escapes me. Portlines sells a jig that will do the same thing.

They are actually a little less than 90 degrees. It makes no difference which side you do first there is no lead side per se.

@@timcoe6841 Thanks for the quick reply. I tried to purchase a quartering jig before, but the guy wanted to keep it because his father made it.

You can also get quartering jigs from portlines.com hobby supply

No I am sorry I don't. You will need to rewind the coil. It is #32 magnet wire and requires 1300 turns (24 layers) of wire. Hope this helps. The wire is available on Ebay and Amazon

@@timcoe6841 Thanks, Tim. After I posted this question, I found that Doug Peck sells a re-furbished solenoid for $29. Also, mine started working again after I fiddled with the rod that hits the bell. Yay. Thanks, again.

Larry, what do you use to trip the relay module?

​@@timcoe6841 You mean the input to the flasher PCB? AF 690 track trips before & after a crossing drive a 12vdc SPDT dual-coil latching relay. The latching relay forwards 12vdc on/off power to the flasher PCB. The "before" track trip latches the relay & the "after" track trip unlatches the relay. The 690 track trips work well because the latching relay needs only 1 very brief momentary contact closure to latch or unlatch and they're small, unobtrusive, and need no adjustment. Latching relay Schrack model RT314F12, Newark part number 26M2701, $1.34. The flasher PCB 12vdc 20ma outputs' two power-boosting relays are 12vdc SPDT, 685ohm, Schrack model PE014012, Newark part number 36K3449, $0.94. The latching relay's coils are powered by 12vdc and the 690 track trips connect them to base rail to latch or unlatch. My AC power supplies and DC power supplies are commoned (base rail) together. By positioning the two 690 track trips well before and well after the crossing the 760s will start flashing well in advance of a train's arrival and will continue flashing until all of the train (of an average length) has cleared the crossing. All as it should be. Just today I finished converting my 760s to left / right bulb operation, per your video. I used 32-gauge wire-wrap wire to feed down through the tubes. Converted the 1 non-insulated frame terminal post to insulated (now one insulated terminal post for each bulb) and added a 3rd non-insulated terminal post for the frame connection.