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Sorry I’m not sure I understand your question here

@@vincentcausey8498 ohh no, that’s the first I have heard of this happening. What forks do you have on the Trek please?

@@JakeBrookesBiking The forks on the DS 2 gen 5 are not suspension forks but more like road bike forks, so a lot narrower than the suspension forks. I now have the problem that mountain bike guards are too wide to fit the forks, but my tyres are too wide for road bike guards. Catch 22.

@@sfkendrick Hello 👋 It’s not a bother to remove it but it doesn’t weigh much and it doesn’t get in the way of anything, so I usually just leave it on 😊 However if I knew the trails were dry to the point where the rear ProGuard becomes useless, then I would probably remove it. A lot of the trails I ride though are often wet or they have a few wet sections. So it usually just stays on the bike 😊 I hope this helps.

Hello, Ideally this needs to be torqued using a torque wrench which I would recommend - however I personally have gone until it’s tight using the tool, and then a few more clicks. There is no need to go super super tight. I have had no issues with stripping teeth or things coming loose. I hope this helps 😊

That’s perfect. Thanks 🙏

Hello, this notification has only just come through, I am so sorry. Have you got his sorted?

Hello, thank you for sharing this 😊 A neat hidden clip or bolt on attachment, like what can be found on forks would be great! However there are so many different seat stay and chain stay configurations it would just be too difficult for manufacturers to do. Personally I am not a fan of cable ties and Velcro on my bike, but with the rear ProGuard I don’t mind. It does such a good job and for me, it’s certainly worth it 😊

@JakeBrookesBiking all true. Lets see what the future bringst but yeah..at least the mount would also be some sort of cable tie, or something. You probably cant avoid it somewhere along the line.

@@thewizard2465 The K line is one of my favourites. I just wish it was 5 times longer 😂 The video footage never does it any justice, it always seems to make things look smaller and easier than it actually is 😂😳 Are you local to Hamsterley?

@@JakeBrookesBiking I'm in Newcastle so it's my local bike park. Tbh I travel around to places, done glentress not too long ago. Crazy good although a lot was closed off.

@@thewizard2465 I have heard a lot of the tracks up there are closed due to ongoing work? I haven’t been up there is over a year but I need to get back up there - I fear it may be a little different though to my last trip 😳

@@mebeadamb Hello 👋 To my knowledge - no, adding volume spacers does not change the max rider weight limit or max shock pressure. For now try to get the correct sag measurement. I would start with 115/117 psi and see what the sag measurement is. From there you can add a little pressure or reduce it to achieve the sag measurement you want 😊 Once you are happy with the sag, ride the bike and see how it feels. If you are going through the suspension travel too easily or bottoming out, then add some volume spacers 😊 I would not recommend going over the max shock pressure or the max amount of volume spacers. I hope this answers your question and helps. If you have any more questions please ask away 😊

@@AM-yb1ez It is a little annoying but atleast they used a tool that already exists and didn’t make yet another tool 🤔 Where are you based?

@@JayRiva-k7x Sorry I’m a little lost with this. What do you mean please?

@@DuttPolly-n7p Sorry I don’t understand what you mean by this.

@@GurthBrooks619 ohh no! Are you going to just live with the noise or are you going to try and get them fixed?

@@JakeBrookesBiking Im trying to figure that out as I believe the fork is out of warranty.

@@GurthBrooks619 I have heard of some people turning the bike upside down and feeling loc tite into the seal between the fork crown and upper fork legs. However results seem to vary. Might be worth a try - there are a few videos on TH-cam showing how people have done this. I hope this helps

@@JakeBrookesBiking when I reached out to YT they pretended like they’ve never heard of the issue before

@@GurthBrooks619 ohh, that’s strange. Did they do / say anything to help?

@@owenchabot hello, I believe they are installed permanently and the 2 parts are not meant to be taken apart.

@@JakeBrookesBiking That’s what I suspected. Thanks!

@@danieledwards4689 I hope you have a nice trip 😊 Have you been before?

@@RideHaste Thank you very much! It’s a great place to ride and race 😊

@@sebastiengiovannelli8556 hello, usually they sound like mine did after the service. They are not all silent but they are not noisy like this one was at the start of this video.

@@ultragucci Hello, thank you very much for this. Yes, I will try to continue making videos like this 😊 Please subscribe if you havnt already

@@ftlikemike I don’t believe E13 do one but there are certainly some options (not many) from other companies. Unfortunately I can’t remember the make of the one I have used in the past.

@@jml_mtb ohh no, is it affecting the shocks performance?

@@samburrow8099 I’m glad this was useful 😊 They do look good, real neat and tidy 😊

Hello, it would help to keep a bit of mud and dirt off the frame, but it would not give a lot of coverage and it wouldn’t be protecting any bearings or linkages etc, which is what this is designed to do. So personally, I wouldn’t bother and I would save your money 😊 If you are wanting to keep some mud and dirt of you, then I would maybe look at the MudHugger Rear Hugger or a Crud Catcher rear mudguard. I hope this helps 😊

@@JakeBrookesBiking thank you! I’ve ordered one so will see how it looks but will likely return it based on that. I looked at the two you reccommend and they do appear to provide a lot more coverage.

@@samburrow8099 See what it looks like and go from there 😊 Please let me know what you decide on.

@@JakeBrookesBiking already managed to cancel the order for the rear so guess we’ll never know! The more I looked at them the more I’d prefer the full coverage of the mud hugger for winter riding. For now, while the suns out, I think I’ll just go with a front only

@@samburrow8099 Thats great 😊 and that is what I would do, leave it for when the wet weather comes 😊 Also gives you more time to decide on what you want on your bike.

@@sixstab2967 You are welcome 😊 I hope it was useful

@@ex3dy813 they work very well. Hopefully it will help solve the problem for you 😊

@@HappyTeaRex1 😂😂

There should not be any oil to replace 😊

@@mahon1352 I hope you found this video useful 😊

@@JakeBrookesBiking 💯 mate thank you , problem solved by watching your video

@@mahon1352 You are very welcome 😊

Thank you for feedback 😊 I have a fox 36 and I don’t think I used any shims in the end. It seemed to work perfectly on its own 😊

Thank you for this, whatever it was, Fox managed to get this sorted for me 😊

@@Emtbtoday Hello, sorry about my slow reply… Ideally volume spacers should be left until sag is set correctly and the bike has been ridden to see how it feels and how progressive or linear it is. However I understand your issue, I would say give it a go and see what you find 😊 As long as you do not go over the max pressure for your shock then you shouldn’t have any issues. Just be aware that reducing the volume spacers size will make the bike more linear and easier to bottom out. On the other hand adding a volume spacer or increasing the volume spacers size will increase how progressive your bike is. If your running a large amount of sag - this will certainly help to reduce bottom outs I would personally start by trying a slightly larger volume spacer, go back to your max pressure and see where you sit with sag 😊 I’m sorry I can’t give you a definitive answer but hopefully the info above is helpful.

Ohh no, unfortunately to my knowledge the only lock ring tool I know that will work, is the Ethirteen lock ring tool. Is there no way of possibly straightening the lockring tool you have bent in a vice?

Hello 😊 The left pedal will not go into the right crank arm and the right pedal should not go into the left crank arm as the threads are opposite. They do need a nip to stay in place. I can’t see why they would come loose if they are nipped tight… it might be worth tightening them up a little more or maybe using some loctite, however this isn’t usually needed 😊 How are the bearings? Are they a little stiff? I hope this helps 😊

These jobs are not always easy, I hope this video was useful! 😊 Please subscribe