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4160 Tuesdays
United Kingdom
เข้าร่วมเมื่อ 31 มี.ค. 2014
How do you make perfume?
When there are so many fragrance-making films on TH-cam already, why on earth would I want to add to them?
A lot of them aren't really telling it the way it is, so I thought I would clear up some misunderstandings.
I created a perfume brand that's sold in Lucky Scent and Escentual, SScent in Korea and Perfumology. Three of my fragrances have been Fragrance Foundation Awards finalists, I've got a book out, The Perfume Companion, and I've been doing this for ten years.
What you'll find here:
Handmade films on perfume making, 4160Tuesdays fragrances, and scent related topics.
Answers to your questions.
Some mythbusting, to counter misinformation out there.
I hope you enjoy it.
Sarah.
+ For our perfumes visit www.4160tuesdays.com
+ Our Patreon community for scent makers and explorers is at www.patreon.com/Scenthusiasm
+ To take our online scent school classes at your own pace, take a look at scenthusiasm.school
When there are so many fragrance-making films on TH-cam already, why on earth would I want to add to them?
A lot of them aren't really telling it the way it is, so I thought I would clear up some misunderstandings.
I created a perfume brand that's sold in Lucky Scent and Escentual, SScent in Korea and Perfumology. Three of my fragrances have been Fragrance Foundation Awards finalists, I've got a book out, The Perfume Companion, and I've been doing this for ten years.
What you'll find here:
Handmade films on perfume making, 4160Tuesdays fragrances, and scent related topics.
Answers to your questions.
Some mythbusting, to counter misinformation out there.
I hope you enjoy it.
Sarah.
+ For our perfumes visit www.4160tuesdays.com
+ Our Patreon community for scent makers and explorers is at www.patreon.com/Scenthusiasm
+ To take our online scent school classes at your own pace, take a look at scenthusiasm.school
SCENTHUSIASM: Intellectual Property in Perfume
In answer to Arthur's question, there is no way to patent or copyright an idea.
I completely forgot to talk about patents, but perfumers can't patent an aroma or a formula, only a new industrial method of production. This applies to raw materials, not to finished fragrances.
I completely forgot to talk about patents, but perfumers can't patent an aroma or a formula, only a new industrial method of production. This applies to raw materials, not to finished fragrances.
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วีดีโอ
MONEY & HONEY Part 2: In which we smell and taste Deukes Honey
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Our first (and possible last) video in which we eat beautifully aromatic food, discuss meeting other artisan companies at Brityard, and how maybe cheese and olive bread was a bit much for honey testing. Honeys tasted were the buckwheat, linden and rapeseed, all from Moldova.
MAKING A FRAGRANCE START TO FINISH: Scenthusiasm School
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How do I make perfume? Here's the short answer, a film in which I create Flawed Fern, a fragrance for Arthur to wear while learning a script and filming out in Greece, inspired by the character he plays and the suits he'll be wearing. The film is called The Flaw, by the way, hence the title. If you like this, here are some other films that might be up your street: Experimenting with your materi...
SCENTED INK FOR PERFUMERS & WRITERS
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Because we've found that perfume people are often fountain pen people too.
Scenthusiasm: 1940s vintage Chanel
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Comparing Chanel No.5 from the 1940s and a more modern version.
Loading the Bulgarian Lavender
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A grabber driver fills up the lavender stills - the skills!
Perfumery: 4160Tuesdays Projects in Progress with Eli
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In which Eli does a week of "work experience", we give Arthur updates on Tempest Rose, Fifth Sense for Hampton Court, updates for Tempest Rose, and also one for which the paperwork is very close to being signed...
Unloading a lavender still
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Bulgarian lavender production, unloading 1.5 tonnes of steamed and steaming lavender, after we watched the essential oil bring extracted.
Scenthusiasm Vanilla Pompona from Peru
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In which I talk to the camera, in Arthur's absence, about a packet of materials I received. (We didn't meet at WPC, we met at In-Cosmetics.) www.sekutvanilla.com
Scenthusiasm: SUSTAINABLE PERFUMERY MATERIALS - IT'S COMPLICATED
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In which we explore why it's not good enough to ask if something is 100% natural and assume that this is going to make it sustainable.
Scenthusiasm: SCENTS OF FIG & COCONUT
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Evoking warm weather fruit and suntan lotion
Scenthusiasm: AMBERGRIS ACCORDS WITH HARRY
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In which Harry arrived with his box of fascinating things so we talked about making his ambergris accord. If you can't understand what Harry or I are saying, please hop over to the Patreon, where the subtitled version is sitting. I'm not doing all that twice! Anyway if it says hamburger, it means ambergris.
Scenthusiasm: GETTING TO KNOW NEW BULGARIAN BOTANICALS
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In Summer 2024 I'm going back to Bulgaria for the Perfumed Plants of Bulgaria week, so here we investigated four of the new materials which arrived from Rose Overdose and practised Rule 3: Getting to know your materials.
SCENTING A BALLET: By a Thread
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A conversation with dancer and choreographer, Marika Brussel about her new ballet - The Odyssey from Penelope's viewpoint.
4160Tuesdays X House of Burlesque - our fabulous new fragrance
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4160Tuesdays X House of Burlesque - our fabulous new fragrance
Scenthusiasm: WHAT WE MEAN BY TEXTURE IN PERFUME
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Scenthusiasm: WHAT WE MEAN BY TEXTURE IN PERFUME
SCENTHUSIASM: Five in Ten with Harry - Green Materials
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SCENTHUSIASM: Five in Ten with Harry - Green Materials
THE MANET FOLIES-BERGERE PROJECT: Scenthusiasm Scent School:
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THE MANET FOLIES-BERGERE PROJECT: Scenthusiasm Scent School:
SCENTHUSIASM SCENT SCHOOL: SM1 + SM2 PART 2:
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SCENTHUSIASM SCENT SCHOOL: SM1 SM2 PART 2:
SCENTHUSIASM: Exploring "green" materials
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SCENTHUSIASM: Exploring "green" materials
SCENTHUSIASM: Q&A The Perfect Fragrance?
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SCENTHUSIASM: Q&A The Perfect Fragrance?
Scenthusiasm: LIPSTICK AND THE FATHER OF AROMATHERAPY
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Scenthusiasm: LIPSTICK AND THE FATHER OF AROMATHERAPY
PERFUMERY: the only way to find out what works
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PERFUMERY: the only way to find out what works
Scenthusiasm Scent School: SMIDGEN OR SHEDLOAD?
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Scenthusiasm Scent School: SMIDGEN OR SHEDLOAD?
Hi you are based In UK?
Yes indeed.
@@SarahMcCartney4160 I am a perfume business owner and i want to expand in uk, looking a lab to produce my perfumes, can you inform me?
Testing musks with the same note to see the effects is the best advise I've seen on TH-cam videos as learning tool
Thanks a lot for dropping in to say so. I hope you find some more useful points in the other films too.
Chào bạn.bạn là một giáo viên tốt.rất tận tâm chia sẻ thông tin.đến với mọi người.tôi đến từ Việt Nam.coi videos của bạn.tôi chúc bạn có nhiều đều tốt đẹp đến với bạn.và kênh của bạn sẽ lan rộng.trên toàn thế giới.chúc bạn vui vẻ.hạnh phúc.
Explains why there are so many new 'fragrance houses' coming out with 'originals' that are clearly dupes. Some even going far to pretend to be the perfumer behind the fragrances. One of the biggest ones in Australia are doing 20M/Year selling dupes as originals.
Oh yes, it's not new but it's faster, blatant and more widespread these days.
Galaxolide is the worst 'neat' material I've ever worked with. It's very difficult getting it into any solvent, even with heat.
@@mustafamalimi I've never bought it neat.
Sarah what do you mean with running the perfume through the "little perfume helpers" to test compliance? Is there a lab, or company that does that work?
It's software that we own. We don't advertise but we supply it and train people how to use it.
Loved this
Thank you. I'm glad it was useful.
jus ta bunch of civet and hes good to go. lol
Would I be so cruel? 😂
@@SarahMcCartney4160 you know civet makes you irresistible, wild cats grrrrrr
@@SeedKreations Arthur doesn't need help. 😁
Nothing better than real honey on a fresh croissant next to a rich, organic arabica black coffee. 🤤 🍯🥐☕ Les aromes sont merveilleux. 🤌 Actually used to collect blackcurrant from the garden, crush the fresh fruit and mix it with clover honey as a spread on bananas. Next to the scent of whole peanut butter it covers the palette spectrum. 😄
@justaddlight Oh My God. 😁
Seen Arthur in AMC’s Interview With The Vampire face to face with THE vampire Lestat… how awesome is that!
I've not seen this yet!
@@SarahMcCartney4160 yes! It was an intricate scene where Lestat confronted Donny (a soldier played by Arthur) who was yelling out “fag” from the audience to Lestat while he was on a stage in a pseudo play, and I was like O my God! That’s Arthur McBain… 👏👏👏😄
Got me to wonder, what sort of scent would the vampire Lestat wear?! Been pottering about in my lab since then…
@@aryasetha4681 Let me know. I'm imagining some sweet little lily of the valley as an ironic statement.
This is fascinating because we have a rare case in which somebody is both competent and still alive who has smelled both the 1947 version *as it was in the 1960s-1970s* and what we presume to be something like a 2015-2022 version. I tried to have 1947 Miss Dior reconstructed for an older lady in my family for Mother's Day, and it later occurred to me: we can never know how good a job they did. Perfume from 1947, even if kept in a dark cool cabinet or drawer for decades, would have lost something in the top at the least. Which I presume Sarah's mother's Chanel did as well, even though Sarah may not have such a precise scent memory of it (but if she does then please confirm). So my Miss Dior reconstructors could have only done so well and no better with a sample of the OG. Perfume made from a patent or even the perfumers' original notes from 1947 could be more accurate, but - the reconstructors still aren't likely to have broken the ban and used all of the old pre-IFRA raw materials or chemical compounds verbatim (if you can still obtain or synthesise them all by hook or by crook, that is). Such a perfume would still have Arthur's latter-day Hollywood, tragically diluted milk-toast smell to it. The only way we can know is to have an Old Nose who has smelled both make a pronouncement. 👵👃 And that won't happen, since only an exceptionally irritating and oafish clod would conclude such a thing openly before polite company and further make the rather insensitive suggestion that she do so. Perhaps a gentleman perfumer of the era can still be found instead. Incidentally, 100 years hence *no one* will know what these perfumes really smelled like. So to my knowledge I am going to be the first to suggest that energetic, intelligent types such as Harry and Sam should be funded to gather GC/MS analyses of the important historical fragrances, plus accompanying samples wherever still possible, and apply for their safe conduct to and storage in a facility analogous to or even partitioned from the existing Svalbard seed vault in order to best preserve our current perfume heritage for those future perfumers. I would propose that with Sarah's permission, the vault (or that chamber of the existing Svalbard vault set aside for fragrances) be named after Sarah's mother, since her foresight in seeing the truth of Churchill's reelection should inspire us to act upon this foresight for future generations of perfumers. I would propose that Arthur be the one chosen to flesh out the documentary film and take it to BBC for production. And I imagine many of us here would be pleased and proud to accept the assignment of producing perfume(s) commemorating the christening of the vault at the chosen date in the future.
Actually the place you suggest exists. It is called the Osmotheque and it is curated by retired master perfumers. They recreate the formulas with original materials so that visitors (appointment only) can smell them as they were.
@@SarahMcCartney4160 Best-kept secret ... of the last 34 years. Participation by Jean-Claude Ellena, articles by Luca Turin - it's all there and has been for some time. But this is the first time I've heard so much as a peep. So back to the drawing board for a more original idea for me. But thank you very much for illuminating! Clearly a bucket list visit on the EU tour for perfumers.
@fhoeflich I've been there. I organised a little group and had a talk from Master Perfumer the late Monsieur Yves Tanguy. They don't encourage visitors.
@@SarahMcCartney4160 I think it sounds disappointing? The Louvre does not want me breathing on or popping flashbulbs at the Mona Lisa either ... but neither do they discourage my visits nor deny me access. They simply do what they can to share this treasure with the world for whom they are preserving her. I wouldn't expect a light show, a gift shop or a line of exotic test strips; I would simply want to see any textual and graphic materials they have prepared as part of their charge, and perhaps from behind a ribbon catch a distant glimpse of a vintage bottle of Jicky. I don't wish to be unreasonable; am I being? That all being said, they are performing their key task of preserving and for that I *am* appreciative. I would have enjoyed flying over the pond and attending the talk with your little group, and would even have taken pains to be on my best behaviour for the day in exchange for the privilege. Thank you for sharing your own experience with us here.
Seems it would be easier to reach you here instead of Instagram, as I dm'd you last week to no avail and I do see you're more active here. Would it be possible to connect with you regarding some online/distance taught process as I reside in the US ? Thank you.
Sorry about that. I aim to answer all messages from every source. Which of the IG accounts was it? I currently teach on the Scenthusiasm Patreon whose link is in this bio.
@@SarahMcCartney4160 I wrote to 4160tuesdays_kr one
@@SarahMcCartney4160 It was 4160Tuesdays IG.
❤🌺😍☺️😉
Honey has a foul note to me. Beeswax smells like feet for some reason. I'm sure I'm picking up some fatty or indolic note that is in their, but it repels me
@@catface101 interesting! You wouldn't like the buckwheat one them. 😄
Success is nice. 🤍
Reaching a place at which we can afford posh honey?
@SarahMcCartney4160 of course! I admire your passion and success very much, hope it was taken in the positive way I meant it! 🥂
I didn't understand anything
I am very curious how synthetic are made, scents that cannot be obtained by natural processes, after I tried to find out it turns out that one scent can have dozens of types of ingredients and it is all chemical names that I do not understand, do perfumers usually make these synthetic scents themselves or only use those made by companies such as Firmenich, Givaudan etc.?
It's more affordable to buy them from the companies but knowing chemistry is a vital part of creating scents/perfumes
Perfumers do not make them themselves. There are two routes that perfume chemists take at the big companies. One is to create new synthetic molecules which they use while they are under patent, or sell to us mere mortals. The other route is to go into blending perfumes. An understanding of chemistry helps but is not essential.
@@cyberjynx Knowing chemistry is not vital to creating fragrance. Source: I am a chemist and perfumer, and I use exactly 0 chemistry knowledge when creating fragrance.
When oh when are we going to get smellovision?? 😭 I wannasmellit I wannasmellit I wannasmellit 🤣 41:05 The "chuffed" expression. 😄 Brilliant. Can't wait for an iteration to be released Sarah. 😉 Big fan of fougeres meself. 🎩
I might well make a bigger batch.
🫧Hello 🫧Fabulous 🫧People!🫧
@@GohAhweh Hi! 💃
@TeamTuesday So I am out here studying my raw materials, diluting, trying to balance my own accords and smelling my heart out ... but it's ARTHUR who gets two beautiful, intelligent perfumeuses of substance crafting a bespoke perfume for his next film appearance! Gratis, for all I can see of it. Tell me, where do I sign up for THAT job and ditch this one? 😅 Quick note on pines: here in the States we have the Blue Ridge and Smoky Mountains back East. We get Virginia Pine, Douglas Fir, White Pine, Cascarilla Bark, spruces and other balsams/resins to die for that you just don't seem to find anywhere else. Sarah will already know what's on offer from Eden Botanicals in this regard but have her try indie Blue Ridge Aromatics as well, and tell Ian that Frank sent you to have an easier time of it. Smells from Heaven; I promise it will please Arthur's nose well down into the mids at least. Another fine video - can't get enough of you all, and I blend with them playing when I'm not doing Bach or Mozart. (Please thank Amy for packaging my last order so flavourfully.) Keep them coming, please - cheers all @TT
@fhoeflich Actually I am not familiar with all of Eden Botanicals different materials. I must check some more pine varieties. Arthur is still one of our employees and bespoke fragrances are part of the package. 😃 Also we're counting on him to be our own home grown celeb soon! He's been with us 10 years!
I love your content
I'm very happy to hear that.
Hello Sarah you are my teacher more from 1 year , i'm wathing your videos daily, i'm taking amazing information, same time i'm a student in Perfumers world professional cours, next one I'll take your professional cours, thank you for everthing . Greetings from Türkiye to Sarah and Arthur :)
Thank you. I look forward to meeting you. 😊
@@SarahMcCartney4160i hope me too 😊
So are isolates terpenes or similar to terpenes?
Isolate is the name for a molecule that has been isolated - taken out of an essential oil - from the whole substance during distillation. So it can be anything that exists in an essential oil, including terpenes. Terpenes might be Isolates, or they might be synthesised.
There is a perfume ingredient made from orchids, it's methyl epi-jasmonate and it's nearly chemically identical to HEDIONE! derived from Cymbidiums in 19th century China. Also orchids do grow in France, there are species of Ophrys and Orchis which are endangered there because of poaching and the Pierce Ophrys Conservation Project has done amazing work trying to save them. I love the idea of scent constellations!
Is there any natural solvent to make 100% natural perfume .?
Yes, organic grain ethanol is natural, and you can also use almond oil, fractionated coconut oil or jojoba oil. They are not as good as ethanol for the quality of perfume but they will work with essential oils and absolutes.
@@SarahMcCartney4160 thanks alot
It's so true, the venn diagram of perfume and (scented) fountain pen people has a huge overlap. 😄
@keaka if you're a Facebook person come to Penthusiasm.
Is it javanol as sandalwood here (FofToK), in a very subtle amount? And am I the only one who thinks that small amounts of javanol smell like vetiver?
I don't have any Javanol, so it wasn't. I use Sandalore and Dreamwood Base, but mostly actual sandalwood.
@@SarahMcCartney4160 Shows what I know! :) I wonder if it's the Dreamwood base? I *think* I know what Sandalore smells like, but then do I really? In any case, it's smelling really lovely, on this hot and humid day in the drydown. Thank you! :)
Thanks loved this!
Glad you enjoyed it.
J. Herbin has a series of scented inks too, I have three of them and they are intense. :) I particularly adore violet one, cause it smells like my fave violet candies from Madrid. :D
I own all of them. 😁
❤
Sarah, you have no idea the value you provide to me. I'm super beginner and learned a lot from you. You cleared a lot of my confusions. Thank you so much! I wanted to ask something regarding fixatives. If you add like 10 fixatives with not a lot of impact or vapor pressure, will it project with just Hedione and Evernyl in it as a diffusive intention? I'm struggling a lot with projection and wanted to ask you. Thank you again 😊
Thank you. Hedione won't do it alone. I've recently found that Lilybelle is doing amazing lifting work. You want molecules you can smell from the other side of the room when someone takes the cap off the bottle. To test, you need help. This week in my classes it was interesting to observe which materials (diluted) travel quickly, like when someone peels an orange in a railway carriage.
❤
I know! Aren't they?
Thank You
Diamine make some wonderful things and they are such good value!
Love this so interesting I’m an ex chef and didn’t know about this but have it going on all the time smells then visuals and music will accompany them. Excited to explore your work and you tube videos 😊
Thanks! I love working with Adam Thomason, and Stef Singer at Bittersuite. It really does bring it all together.
Oxford Botanical Gardens? Man, sounds like an honorable gig. Congrats, hope you find the perfect smell for them! Oh, and good job Arthur “identifying” the lavender 😂
@@vanillinchillin743 that is a good word for it. I am honoured.
when you say MMM at 50-80% of the perfume is it the concentrate or the entire perfume?
The concentrate.
@@SarahMcCartney4160 so it's the diluted version in 15% ethanol right? so that will make 50-80% of the Eau de parfum concentrate (which is 15-20% concentrate in ethanol)
I'd like to say that jade plant in the world looks exactly like yours, or if not like that but falling over, except for one. I was in the Catskills region of New York and inside the town's Chinese restaurant, in the front window, they had the most absurdly immense jade plant I've ever seen. It was the size of a hedge, was probably very heavy, and I have no idea how that's possible or how old it was. You could have lost a small child in it. Anyway, my wife's middle name is Jade, so the namesake never escapes my notice.
@koflan l hope to have it and it's children for ever.
❤
Appreciated.
@@SarahMcCartney4160 I appreciate the charming princess 👸🪄🪄🎩
N 5 😍😊🤍 Sarah♥️🌹🌺
😄
It was so great, they changed the formula and as he said, "It has lost it's character, and is thinner". I always had a bottle of it around up to around 2010. It doesn't smell anything like the N°5 I liked.
Hi Sarah Good afternoon, It is natural that the older version of Chanel nº5 is more animalic, since at that time the use of products of animal origin such as Musk, Civette, Castoreum and Amber Gris were still widely used, Ambroxan, Ambrocenide and all the range of modern products that have replaced these products (even due to the price), and also, because today people avoid perfumes with products of animal origin. Right, is my Castoreum Tincture (the only product of animal origin that I have) has nothing to do with artificial Castoreum. Compliments.
@@josesaraiva9566 Yes, this is well documented. The Castoreum Synth I own smells identical to the ethical civet paste I owned.
The new one can't be older than 20 years, it has a rather long INCI list. If it wear older, the list would consist of alcohol, water, perfume and maybe colorants or antioxidants, not much more..
@pami333 longer INCI lists were introduced in advance of the 2000 regulations. I was working in the industry at the time and watching it happen. 🙂 But it definitely wouldn't be older than around 1998. Time flies.
It would be great if you can invite Sam more or maybe if you would appear on his chanel, beautifull duo
If he's around on a Wednesday we shall definitely do it.
Gosh, this place must smell absolutely heavenly! On another note, is it just me, or am I not seeing the lavender flowers? Do they lose their purple color or something? Because I can clearly see them growing in the background, but the stuff on the floor seems all dried out...
@MatBaconMC It is the very end of the season and it's quite dried out but still gorgeous. The season was really early because it was so hot and dry, but stalks, leaves and flowers are all used. Generally this would be blended with early season but I got some of this version and it's great.
I love how you talk and all your gestures, you remind me of my grandma, who passed away a few years ago and i say it in the best way possible! Love it all! Harry is just a great gentleman i bought some stuff from him not so long ago, he is so nice.
@@adamklinszki139 Thank you. I appreciate that.
Sarah ❤ Sarah, I picked a fig leaf and left it for a while. When I smelled it, I found that its scent gave you hints of coconut heart in the scent. I love coconut and fig coconut 😍😍😍😍😊
That's great. I must try it!
@@SarahMcCartney4160 Yes Sarah. Pick them green and let them dry on their own. You will be amazed by their wonderful, beautiful scent, similar to coconut.
Sarah ❤ 🌺
@@houssamreg9360 You too! 🌻
Complicated Shadows sounds wonderful.
@@GohAhweh I agree, despite the total un-Britishbess of doing so.
Seems like Lavandula angustifolia Mill and not lavandin, which is great for a change. So many perfumers claim lavender in their notes when in reality they're using the much more herbaceous lavindin.
Do perfumers do that? Why? It's Lavandula angustifolia Miller, AKA Lavandula officinalis which is why I called it lavender. You've lost me. 🤷🏻♀️
@@SarahMcCartney4160 No disagreement here. You correctly called it lavender which is great 🙂
@Lagonda Yes, of this I am aware. But who is it that's doing the opposite though? Who are these random perfumers who call lavandin lavender? One can't just make a sweeping generalisation without backing it up with facts? Give me the source. 😁
@@SarahMcCartney4160 Search PubMed Central for scholarly articles, Google search 'use of lavandin as substitute for lavender in perfumery', search for 'lavandin' in Perfumer & Flavorist, to name just a few. Why are you so confident that all perfumers use Lavandula angustifolia Mill when they claim lavender in a fragrance name or note?
first in line !! 😄
They picked a different one! But I might release this one anyway.