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Jay Neal
United States
เข้าร่วมเมื่อ 10 เม.ย. 2014
This channel is dedicated to helping races get better at what they do. Please help us to support this channel with positive feed back and great ideas to move forward. Check out our web sites at bsbgofast.com and bsbshocks.com
How to determine if you need a shock dyno.
Provide info on shock dynos and understand a few things about them. Part1
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How to determine the drill and tap size you need.
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Understanding the correct drill for each tap size. • ¼-20 = No.7 (.201) • 5/16-18 = F (.257) • 3/8-16 = 5/16 (.312) • ½-13 = 27/64 (421) • ½-20 = 29/64 (.453) • 5/8-18 = 37/64 (.578) • ¾-10 = 21/32 (.656) • ¾-16 = 11/16 (.687) Links to charts: www.bsbgofast.com/post/how-to-choose-the-right-size-drill-and-tap-for-tapping-holes-a-comprehensive-guide
Understanding shock parts and what to call them.
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The name of different shock parts and a brief understanding of what they are.
Lower Control Arm
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Understanding some things about a Chevelle lower control arm.
Shock Valving
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Understanding the call out on a shock and putting to layman's terms.
Master Program for 2025.
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Help us grow together in 2025. We are helped more teams meet their goals in 2024 than ever before. For most teams it is about racing better and being more competitive every week. We are doing this through our shock program and better setup advice weekly. Join us in 2025 for a better you. bsbmfg@yahoo.com
How to understand Dyno Charts. Basic
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"Dyno Charts," which are graphs that illustrate the performance of shock absorbers. The video focuses on explaining four basic types of Dyno charts: average, both, force versus displacement, and force versus velocity. The video aims to educate beginners on these charts, focusing on the both chart in particular, and its relationship to the average chart, as well as its usefulness in understandin...
Shock that BSB builds by Series.
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BSB Shocks: A Detailed Overview This document provides a comprehensive overview of BSB shock absorbers based on a provided video transcript. It breaks down each shock series, highlighting key features, applications, and available options. Core BSB Philosophy: Honed Bodies: All BSB shocks feature honed bodies with internal surface treatments to minimize friction and improve seal performance. Low...
BV vs Standard Shock
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Base valve shock vs. standard gas shock, why we need to run them and how it is going to change your racing. www.bsbgofast.com/15-options
B-MOD Springs and Shocks, for USRA, IMCA, UMP and other B-mods.
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Springs and shocks for IMCA, USRA, and other B-mods. Links for notes on the blog. www.bsbgofast.com/post/b-mod-shocks-and-springs www.bsbgofast.com/15-sereis-info www.bsbgofast.com/15-options (options like base valves and SRT pistons) www.bsbgofast.com/28seriesinfo (USRA Legal)(B-mod) Rev-A: Scaling a car is with the driver.
Apexing a corner
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Where we turn the race car will determine our speed. Three sectors to turn in where are you?
Drive vs Momentum
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Understanding how you drive a track and choose what is best for you. Drive vs Momentum, which is faster to do. Used a new camera this time and in the end it turned off, good thing I was using 2 cameras. I will work on the exposer so it looks better. Thanks for the help and for watching.
225 TH Swift Spring and how it compares to others.
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The 225 tight helix spring for the RR, and what is the hype all about? www.bsbgofast.com/post/the-225-tight-helix-spring
Track Mapping, understanding how to explain where you are in the corner.
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Understanding the corner, in 5 minutes increments or in 3 sectors. Part 1 of a 3-part series. Part 1: Understanding the corner Part 2: Drive vs Momentum. th-cam.com/video/LwQKsOAA-54/w-d-xo.html Part 3: Apex the corner. th-cam.com/video/WN0xy0FFX2g/w-d-xo.html Please comment on your ideas about timing in the corner.
Pigtail Springs with a fix. Sorry
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If you are running a pigtail spring in IMCA you must stop. Update version without me acting funny. Thanks, Jason Dukes for the heads up. IMCA Hobby rule: www.imca.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/11/2024-Hobby-Stock-Rules.pdf This is a notification and not a bash, we LOVE IMCA.
High-Speed Rebound vs Low-Speed Rebound.
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High-Speed Rebound vs Low-Speed Rebound.
Stock Car Shocks and Springs per corner.
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Stock Car Shocks and Springs per corner.
The 500-pound spring test, which is better.
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The 500-pound spring test, which is better.
Hobby Stock Setup, for springs and shocks.
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Hobby Stock Setup, for springs and shocks.
How much rear % do you prefer in the outlaw factories?
In an Outlaw class where you can add lead, I would be 53-55% but remember if you can't turn it is to much rear.
I know a little about building my own shocks. Had some real success with some actually. And we had a friend who could fix seals and shafts and so on. And had a dyno. We got to working together. He was learning from my numbers making him and his customers faster. And I was getting the shocks I wanted with his help keeping us both going. Unfortunately he was killed in a car crash on his way to work. I didn't want to bother his wife immediately to buy the dyno. She gave it away to someone with a lot of my stuff. Fast forward to now and we are gearing back up with our own cars again. And my son and I have to figure something out. I have a mod. He has dirt late. And I drive an asphalt late model for an owner. We also have customers wanting shocks dyno-ed and we do smashing for them already. Cant believe people think a smasher is same as a dyno lol.
Hahahahaha the guys that dyno a shock with their hand is the same guys that tell someone they need new shocks on their street car because the back is sitting too low! 😅
Good luck and if I can do anything to help let me know.
That sounds about right.
You are right.. I have so many questions…
Ask and we will see if we can find and answer.
Currently in the process of building a dyno. Working on the software and data acquisition side of it at the moment. It has been quite a few hours of computer work so far. There are component kits with software available for reasonable if you want to go semi budget build.
Very good work sir, my hat is off to you. Please let us know how this turns out for you I am sure our guys would like to know. Good luck.
I always enjoy your videos Jay
Thanks Dave
Jay thank you for always providing good information in all your videos
My pleasure! and Thanks
Another good video. Racers should also remember to restock the trailer or track toolboxes in the off season. A decent drill bit kit that holds the bits tightly is good to have at the track. Nothing expensive because you will lose tools at some point lol. Also if you put anything like stainless or aluminum bolt into steel use a good antisieze. If not especially with stainless bolt you will learn why quick!!!
Thanks
Great video that is often Over. looked everyone in racing. Needs to own a tap an die set thank you, Jay.
Thanks
Important to know difference for old parts to new. Plus if you have the measurements its easier to find potential issues after an on track incident.
You are so right.
Great information..!!
Thanks.
Another great video
Glad you enjoyed it. Gofast
This is exactly what I was looking for. We finished last year better than ever by finding your videos. We had been wasting time and money your guidance made us competitive.
Glad I could help!
I have found that trying to pressure balance the piston with a base valve to help with the feel and limiting the zero point effect. Can you still effectively control the spring with this method? Can you run a smaller blead with a base valve to help control the car's attitude with a base valve?
Pressure Balance is a big subject, and I am not that versed in how it affects the zero point or what effect you are seeing (good or bad) with zero. I would like to have a deeper conversation about Pressure balancing with you at some point. Question #1, we run a higher zero point with our BV stuff all the time and don’t see any problem with that, in fact, the shock runs better that way. Question #2, changing the bleed in the BV will not help control the car's attitude of the springs return. Now I may have misunderstood the questions here because of the depth of the question so please feel free to call if you want to dive in deeper on this subject.
I would love to apply for the master program, but I feel like I'm not the type of racer you're looking for. I have an older car, I only race one night a week locally, and I don't travel around much.
The Participation Program would work great for you and maybe would work into something more, you can learn things and even on an older car.
Not dyno related but can I keep an eye on my shock gas pressure using my smasher? Check them when new at a certain length every time. Thanks
Yes I think you can but I don't think it is the best idea, you will get a number and you can an eye on it. This is something I have not done so I can't be 100% sure.
Thanks Jay very much appreciate the work you do on these videos!!!
My pleasure!
In my best sarcastic voice...thanks. Seriously, I'm old school, so I know what I want to feel. But, now having a chart to relate to, has my gears turning. Just 2 years ago I discovered the errect of shocks on speed. Much has changed in 20 years
Much has changed.
Do u make sprint car shocks
No, we don't, sorry
For a “budget” type weekend racer that races limited late model. Which type dyno would be better? The digital version or the pen style? What brand would fit that situation?
If you can afford it digital, Maxwell is a user friendly dyno to use.
Thank you for helping me understand more of what I'm looking at when I see a shock Dyno chart
Glad to help, good luck.
Also, thanks for providing this information to community with free access. There’s no one else offering this information in an educational forum without trying to make more money from teams when the cost of the sport is already unsustainable. It takes a lot to plan, film and edit those videos. Certainly you get some benefit from the exposure and an educated consumer but it’s still extremely admirable when a company gives back to the community like this.
Thank you too.
You should Stay with this topic for a few videos and make a few more getting into the weeds on this (those great details you mentioned). The information on this is very convoluted with many misconceptions. There’s very few educational resources for folks and younger viewers. People also try to gatekeep information. The chassis schools avoid the topic altogether which is an egregious act for the cost they charge and the importance of this information. Entire topics on stager or bump steer but nothing on reading shock dynos or understanding shocks. This also opens people up to scams from shock gurus as well as confusion sanctioned by large suppliers. It can certainly be intimidating for older generations and younger generations alike. Americans in general don’t do good reading data, charts and graphs. That’s just the facts.
Thanks for such a great comment and you are right, this subject is very hard to understand due to the lack of information available. I have had to learn it all myself and the more you learn the more you need to learn. I will do some more on this and cover some more about how a piston changes the story being told about the shock, also how low speed affects the whole outcome of the shock. Thanks again.
Can't wait for a new off season of videos! Thanks for all you guys do. Late Model shock video in the future?
You bet!
Thanks for what you're doing. You have helped me. I'm rewatching some of the past vid's. Finally got the car out, for our end-of-year big shows. It's been about 15 years, so I'm just knocking the rust off. Off season is coming, and I'm looking forward to your content to come.
Good luck and if we can help in any way let me know.
Can the high speed adjuster be external for classes that allow adjustable shocks? Like on a 60 series late model shock?
Yes we are working on that.
Word salad!!!
Better get some before it is all gone.
Great video! Thank you for all you do! In regards to the lr preload, are at track adjustments a good option or should the preload be left alone? What phase does the preload affect the most? What is the effect of more or less preload.
Yes we make this adjustment at the track, the general adjustment to add or remove LR wheel load. We are using it to hold the LR up is the main effect, but we can get drive from it too.
This is great information, thank you
Glad it was helpful!
IMCA Northern Sport Mod. What is a good location for the RR spring on top. Meaning centerline of spring to centerline of the tire or brake rotor? Thanks
Sorry I don't understand the question, on an NSM the spring has to be on top and centered on the axle, I also think but not sure it is to straight down from the frame rail. This would mean that you are center line of both the tire and the rotor
@@jaynealgofast Looking at the car from behind. The distance between the C/L of the spring to the C/L of the tire. If someone says they run a 200 RR spring and the distance from the spring only 12" from the tire, and mine is 8", I would need to run a softer spring or add lead to load my RR the same. Just wondering about what the average distance should be?
Modlie video like this would be awesome! Awesome videos
Noted!
Great videos! You should do a spring setup video for the modlite guys
Yes we will do that for you.
lets go
hey
I made it 😊
Good job
Why not spring in rear, shock in front? On usra b mod
We are doing some of this, it makes the car pretty tight.
Wish we’d had YT back when I raced late models
Would of been fun.
What is the best way to raise that RF number with out adding to LR?
Don't know if that can be done, add rebound.
Your videos have help us as novices tremendously
Thank you
Thanks Jay for all the valuable insight and knowledge. Always enjoy the critical info discussed in all your videos. What are your thoughts on a 2 link car allowed to run swing arms? Seems to be pretty popular at the tracks in my area.
The swing arm thing is harder for me because it has been 20 years + and then we didn't do it that much. I think what guys like about it is how it loads the tire on the RR.
@@jaynealgofast I feel that swing arms were great when the dirt technology was a little bit less advanced. So it would make sense why it performs so well in the 2 link world. A handful of guys in my area have used it to their advantage but it could just be a monkey see monkey do like you’ve mentioned before.
Ty for the insight. Still soooo much to learn
Your welcome
If you checked your RR spring load with and without LR preload, would the spring load be higher or lower with your LR preload spring and preload set?
Depending on the spring rate and load, 80lbs spring would be lower in most cases dragging down the RR.
Awesome videos
Glad you like them! thanks
Thanks for videos. What do you mean when you say rebound,spring rate, ride height and load for correct cornering? Can you do video on how these would apply through the corner?
When these things are correct the car turns and drives on the front tires. Spring rate (stiffer) you can lower your ride height and less rebound than you would on the spring at standard ride height. If you don’t have enough rebound or it is incorrectly done, you will give up the nose of the car and most likely be tight on gas. When spring rate and rebound are tuned together then adjust the ride height to its final height, which will allow you to determine loads at ride height and in dynamic positions.
Does the spring load equation work on all 4 corners or only the rr?
Just the RR of what we are doing.
Thank you Jay. This was very informative and helpful.
You are welcome and good luck in all you do.
I'm running 100 lb of preload on my left rear in an IMCA sport mod. I've been able to free up the shocks because it seems to dynamically keep it an attitude where are my shocks can be less aggressive to maintain rear steer and right front grip.
This is the whole reason of the soft spring market. Softer the spring that can still hold ride height the better under dynamic. Just has to hold ride height and not get lazy to get up on the bars
I run a 50pound for fyi
Do you sipe or sand your tires? Really awesome videos Learning lots on here
Yes when allowed we do, the better the tire is (fresh rubber) and good heat range, it will work better.
I'm not a gymnast or an alcoholic so I'm curious what "on the bars" means
It is when the car is at full hike, on a bite setup with a 175 spring you can be off the spring at full hike, being just on the bars. The 4 link rods are carrying the load.
Thanks Jay! I hope to be working with you soon.
Sounds great, good luck in what you do.
Thanks jay! I know I have gained a ton of knowledge and speed with your videos. We really enjoy that and your shocks!
Thank you so much.
Thank You. Next year will be my 1st year in the IMCA mod class... I definitely appreciate the knowledge that you're sharing!
Thank you, hope we can help you next year.
@jaynealgofast no doubt... you keep making the videos, I'll keep watching them.
@@jaynealgofast you recommend a 175# LR... why not a 100-125# LR spring?
What front springs would you suggest with metric front clip?
@kellyfegter9605 if you compare the chevell to the metric front clips... the spring centers are similar, the metric is approximately 1/4" wider, the front is approximately 1-1/2" taller on the front of the horns and the kickout/side rails the metric is narrower by approximately 2"... the next thing you should look at are the mounting points on the clip for the lowers. Then check the distance from the pivot point to the center of the spring pocket, followed by the distance to the balljoint... the front track widths are comparable. Sooo IMO, the length of the lowers and the length from pivot to the spring pocket is the important info... then compare that to the rest of the setup.