Been around dirt cars for 50 yrs, give or take a few years off and back again.... driver, owner, crew guy, sometimes crew chief.... Always would take off a shock after a little mishap and hold it in my hand wondering if it was damaged or OK...... back when you ran junk OEM shocks, go to the parts house and buy a new $10 shock.... after going to special custom shocks... would stand there holding a shock still wondering if it was ok.... built a few homemade shock dynos and ended up on the 3rd try with a small 110v gear reduction motor /gear box and a load cell and scale reader..... I can run a shock at 1"/sec and check it in house and not have to send the shock back 600miles away..... No local shock dynos that I have access to...... that's the reason I ask about getting a dyno sheet with the company I let my owner deal with... if they don't want to send me a dyno sheet, I tell the owner to try someone else.... BSB has sent me anything I have asked for..... Thanks Jay and your staff.....your videos and info has helped a lot of folks improve their programs...... see ya johnny v
I always got my dyno charts for my own reference. Like the landrum springs come with dyno charts and a serial number. Those all go in a folder with every shock chart. Thats for me to study. And when one feels better than a different one I can look at the charts for a difference. And can also tell when something is wrong when comparing new charts to old of a component. I had a friend who was local with a nice shock dyno. He done a lot of local low budget racers shocks. I worked with him to improve his skill and knowledge. My stacks usually were copied by him for his own car. Now I must get my own dyno. Sadly we lost him about Nov. He was killed in a car headed to work.
Does a driver feel the CO numbers when shock compresses and RO numbers when shock extends? What happens when the co cc numbers have a large difference? Does the average numbers mean anything?
Yes, the numbers do mean something but in a lot of cases, the driver doesn’t connect the problem to the source. When the gap between open and closed is small the shock is working at its best, when the gap starts to increase the shock is working the oil harder and the feel in the car is going away. When it is really big then the air pressure is too low, and we are creating a pressure change causing cavitation. Thanks for your question
Been around dirt cars for 50 yrs, give or take a few years off and back again.... driver, owner, crew guy, sometimes crew chief.... Always would take off a shock after a little mishap and hold it in my hand wondering if it was damaged or OK...... back when you ran junk OEM shocks, go to the parts house and buy a new $10 shock.... after going to special custom shocks... would stand there holding a shock still wondering if it was ok.... built a few homemade shock dynos and ended up on the 3rd try with a small 110v gear reduction motor /gear box and a load cell and scale reader..... I can run a shock at 1"/sec and check it in house and not have to send the shock back 600miles away..... No local shock dynos that I have access to...... that's the reason I ask about getting a dyno sheet with the company I let my owner deal with... if they don't want to send me a dyno sheet, I tell the owner to try someone else.... BSB has sent me anything I have asked for..... Thanks Jay and your staff.....your videos and info has helped a lot of folks improve their programs...... see ya johnny v
Thank You for your work in the sport, helping others find their way is what it is all about.
I always got my dyno charts for my own reference. Like the landrum springs come with dyno charts and a serial number. Those all go in a folder with every shock chart. Thats for me to study. And when one feels better than a different one I can look at the charts for a difference. And can also tell when something is wrong when comparing new charts to old of a component. I had a friend who was local with a nice shock dyno. He done a lot of local low budget racers shocks. I worked with him to improve his skill and knowledge. My stacks usually were copied by him for his own car. Now I must get my own dyno. Sadly we lost him about Nov. He was killed in a car headed to work.
Sorry to hear that, hope you find someone close to replace his service, if not call us.
Does a driver feel the CO numbers when shock compresses and RO numbers when shock extends? What happens when the co cc numbers have a large difference? Does the average numbers mean anything?
Yes, the numbers do mean something but in a lot of cases, the driver doesn’t connect the problem to the source. When the gap between open and closed is small the shock is working at its best, when the gap starts to increase the shock is working the oil harder and the feel in the car is going away. When it is really big then the air pressure is too low, and we are creating a pressure change causing cavitation. Thanks for your question
The chart at 7:05 in your video looks more like an acorn to me!
Yes your right.