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I had to look up that code, lol. The '02 Sensor Operating Temperature Not Reached (Bank 2 Sensor 1)' is what I'm finding. I would lean towards replacing the O2 sensor as well, it's probably the issue. Hopefully it works out, good luck 🙃

Thank you! Yeah, lol... it's more than you think, once you open it up. Good luck with yours 🙂

There may be kits to change the bulb color on the stock one, but I don't know how it would actually appear. I would assume it's not great, if they even exist. To get the clean, nice color halos that you see sometimes, you have to take apart the headlight and change the rings to LEDs that change color. I did something similar to that here: th-cam.com/video/dLjSZQNJJT8/w-d-xo.html

I looked, and it looks like the dealer sells the screw as one piece with the mirror, so there's no part number for this year IS250. You could go to a hardware store and look for shorter length T20 screws. However, I'd personally order something like this: amzn.to/3Aw7aYj from Amazon and see which one fits. No guarantees, but that's the best guess I have with the little time I have. Good luck

Glad it helped you, have a great week 🙃

So glad it helped, good luck with it 🙃

Did it work for you?

Each of the E90's have a different fuse layout, so I cannot help you there. You'd have to check your exact build. Don't quote me, but I believe there's no specific fuse for brake lights for some of the E90's. If all of your tail lights are out at the same time (brake lights), then it's likely a larger issue. I know that wires splitting are a common occurrence on these cars. Check the area of the wiring harness in the trunk where the trunk lid closes (the joint). You'll have to peel back the boot around the harness. You can also check other areas. You'll likely see a split wire or two. You can solder them or just connect with new wire, etc. If you cannot find the wire split, you could test the bulb housing in the brake light socket for voltage and then trace it back from there. Once you repair the split wires, you'll likely still have to clear the FRM (footwell module) that controls this. If you've been driving with a broken circuit, the car has indefinitely cut power to that circuit, even once repaired. You MAY be able to use Bimmercode on Android to do this, but I'm unsure. You could use Bimmerlink to scan deeper codes and get a report on exactly which circuit may be down too. You can download the PC software yourself, but it's a bit of a complicated setup on laptop. You'll need the data cable or MHD adapter. If you take it to a dealer, they may refuse to clear it and just tell you the FRM is bad, 99% of the time it is not. Maybe letting the battery sit disconnected for a long time can reset this, but I have no idea if that would work. I realize this is a bit more complicated than a fuse, but you could try to check all the brake/abs related fuses on your particular diagram as well, just for a start. It's just unlikely if all went out at the same time. Good luck 🙃

Hey, I believe they can, but you have to specify to them before ordering because they'll send you the specific harness. I'm 99.9% sure they have the one that works with that build of system. I cannot speak for other brands. Good luck 🙃

Ah, thank you so much! Have an awesome week, cheers 🙂

Just long press the ONE button you want to program for a separate house garage door for 10-20seconds. I think it turns from flashing fast to flashing slowly. That means it's in pairing mode, so you can do the garage door button step, etc. It's been a long while since this video, but if you don't press the 1+3, it won't reset all 3 buttons. Skip that step. Good luck

Glad it helped! It's funny how much effort it is to change a bulb, but I've seen worse 😄

Hopefully it is easier. Good luck with it! 🙃

🤣 That's kind of cool. Is just the spool really loud, or is the entire engine/exhaust much louder? Hopefully no debris flies in there.

@@fixitcolton I’m playing with fire, I don’t have the undercarriage plate protecting that area, last owner never put it back on. I need to purchase one. It’s loud in sport mode but subtle in drive when off boost. Once you you get into boost at about 2000 rpm or so you’ll hear the turbos wind up . I’ve driven 2000 miles so far . I took the 2” off because my pulley nipped it . I need to make a bracket to hold it up better . When I get MhD in the next month, I’m going to do a dyno video and compare no inlets to inlets installed to see how much power I’m losing compared to everyone who’s uploaded similar mods. My car has 158k miles but I do all the maintenance myself . I like how easy this car is to work on and how responsive the computer is when you do fix a part , the lights come off instantly

Yea, I agree. This car is easier to work on than others I've had. It's almost a good and bad thing, because that under panel is so terrible to remove each time 🤣. For now, I'd at least try something like this: amzn.to/4eyjQfF . I bet you could make your own for less, but make sure that it's solid and won't fly in. I've seen people do this before, but not on our cars, lol. With MHD Stage 2+ or any of the custom maps, you may have a noticeable difference. To my surprise, my inlet setup, the way I mounted it against the radiator, has kept up. It's really close, but has never hit the belts. It's SO close though, you really do have to make it solid. Good luck with all of this my friend 🙃

Hey, I'm using an Eonon unit because it was the only one that kept the physical buttons. However, they don't offer that version anymore. It's a fairly decent mid-level Android head unit that's pretty affordable. They have a $200 and $300 version that's updated and newer now. They don't have physical buttons, but it's a larger screen and it fits the car perfectly, and it keeps a stock look. Hope that helps. Here is one of them: www.eonon.com/Android-Car-GPS/Vehicle-Specific-GPS/eonon-bmw-3-series-e90-android-12-wireless-apple-carplay-android-auto-car-radio-with-6gb-ram-64gb-rom-9-inch-qled-touch-screen.html

Happy it helped! Good luck with it 🙃

Hey, could you give me a little more specifics on the question?

@@fixitcolton sure...I was under the impression that outlets need to be a certain height from the floor and not too high up or above cabinets.

Ah ok, as far as I know, there's not a code for height in residential garages. I'm in California. There may be additional codes in other states, I'm unsure. I think some risky appliances can require certain heights in garages (18" at minimum) or so. I think a general rule of thumb is about 4ft in order to have items not hit it, since garages usually store things. This outlet was higher, but not too high to reach easily from the flat ground. I suppose I would use that as a factor. Make the outlet higher, but not too high to unplug easily, if necessary. I was only using a ladder in order to see it clearer and run the line above it, it wasn't necessary to use to access the outlet. Hope that helps a bit, but I don't have an exact answer on that one.

@@fixitcolton thanks for responding!

😄

Hey, thanks for the kind words 🙃. After you get this down to a science, it could take an hour. I also do it on jack stands. The worst part is removing the splash shield, lol. It can vary from person to person. If it's your first time, I'd allocate 3-4 hours. Something may happen or get stuck (rusty bolt), o2 sensors stuck, the v-band clamps won't seat right, etc. I have a full video version that may detail things better. The supporting text blocks also try to describe the detail, if you pause in this video. Hope it helps, good luck! Full tutorial: th-cam.com/video/dX6I6ViDIF8/w-d-xo.html

Haha, yea... this car is like new all around, except that sticky dash 🤣

You can branch off the 12V socket as well and have both. It depends on the output amperage, and what you're trying to accomplish. Many dash cams have the socket as a charger already, and then you run it down through the A-pillar. Carplay device has some that run off type-C to USB A now, and require very low amperage. I would test the device you plan on using, and see if you can keep both the socket and the new USB. I think it can be done on this car. I've done it on others in the same generational build time. Good luck 🙃

Yea 🤣 it's nuts the things you have to navigate around in some cars just to get basic stuff done. It's not even worth it. Curious, inlet install, are you turbocharged? Or are you referring to the simple intake system?

@@fixitcolton I am referring to the same exact job you did in this video. The shop wants to remove the transmission AND the intake manifold to access this inlet pipe, so I declined their service and started looking for info how to do it myself.

Hey, apologies... TH-cam was showing this comment under another video 🤣. I see it's the inlet video now, so yea definitely insane! Some people have more firewall space in these cars, I don't know why. However, I still advocate for moving the engine a bit to save you a headache. Here is the full version: th-cam.com/video/9jpUW4AFDhA/w-d-xo.html if that helps you at all. I tried all the shortcuts I could think of. I labeled them if they failed or if they actually worked. That may save you some time as well. Definitely don't pay that, lol. I've removed this transmission, it's not that difficult, but it's definitely not needed. Good luck with it 🙃

Glad it helped! These cars really do well long-term, lol. 🙃 Have a great week!

I don't know the fuse, and I would assume there's no direct fuse just for that. It would possibly be integrated with many other things that you wouldn't want to disable. However, that's even more work than just unplugging the unit. The easiest way to keep this open is to unplug the little unit in the trunk. It's in the driver's side back panel (opposite of the battery) down by the tail light. It has a vacuum line connected to it. Just unclip that plug and it will default open (or at least mine does). You can also use the app Bimmerlink to just toggle it open via app.

@@fixitcolton i appreciate it, imma give it a try and will get back to you for sure 👍

Happy it helped! Have a great week 🙃

Hey, thanks! Have an awesome week 🙃

I believe it's all E90 series, yes. Here is the full video: th-cam.com/video/XZ3ABeNICPg/w-d-xo.html Here is the link from the video: avinusa.com/12-3-inch-multimedia-navigation-system-for-bmw-3-series-e90-e91-e92-e93-nid.html There's one for BMW's with the iDrive system as well. Cheers 🙃

@@fixitcolton Cheers

@@dayanandaperera4695 i ordered my off of aliexpress i would recommend getting it because the apps are most consistent

I'm really not sure. It could be a coincidence and another component is on the way out. Did you install a new thermostat? If so, was it the same specs as the old one? Was the adjustment done correctly with the knob? If it's an old thermostat, it could just be age and shifting parameters that caused it to act up. Was it a one time event or does it continue on running hotter than it did? It's hard to guess with limited info.

Ah, so glad to help you out! It's definitely a unique and complex undertaking. I wish you luck on your project. Let me know if I can help out with info. This is years old now, but most of my memory is still there with it 🤣 Cheers

Thanks so much! I'm glad it helped out. It was an old video, but it's useful lol. I did have a similar issue... I'm trying to remember. I think the way it's wired is that the balance/fader remains useless. All speakers are running through the front L/R channels only, but all speakers are working. Check 23:15 in the video. It kind of touches on this, but it isn't vividly clear. If I remember more, I'll update. It is possible that you missed something in the wiring too, but this issue sounds like the bit of confusion I had, even though it was correct. Good luck

Thanks so much! That's probably the nicest comment I've ever had, lol. Yea, some of these videos are older, but I worked hard on them 🤣. I appreciate the kind words, and I'm glad it helped. I wish you luck on yours. Have an awesome week 🙃

@@fixitcolton Hope the Channel blow mate

That's a decision that depends on how much work someone wants to do, right? Lol... I think that if it's significantly more work for you, you could hardwire it. I'm assuming you will match or exceed the gauge wire needed to be safe, or that the circuit already supports it, etc. Personally, I'd probably install the outlet because then you could swap anything in there when, or if, you need to. Of course, I don't know the whole scenario, the age, the system. But then again, if you know you'll never use that outlet for anything and have an abundance of them already, just hardwire it with the proper connectors and save yourself the hassle.

@@fixitcolton thanks for the response! I think I'm gonna go the outlet route. I appreciate your time and information

No worries, have a great weekend, and good luck! 🙃

Hey, thanks for the support. The lights themselves are good inside. I would note to REALLY solidify the eyelids, if you do them inside. I had one slightly shift because I didn't use enough sealant. It's not enough to bother me yet. This video is actually a few years old, so they held up well in general. The UV coat deteriorates after 1-2 years, but you only need to recoat it. You could do something more permanent though. You could clear coat them with paint as well. I've recoated my headlights once in a few years. I do need to do it again soon though. I can see spots where it's coming off. Hope that helps you, cheers

@@fixitcolton thanks man! much appreciated

If you have some questions, just post them up here. I don't know how much direct help I can be since this video is years old. I will try to remember what I can.

@@fixitcolton What happens is that I connect the cables as they are in the video and the LED turns on but after a few seconds it turns off and so all the time

What LED? You have to be more specific. Also, what kind of specs or functions do the LED's installed have?

@@fixitcolton It's the rgb demon's eye led that you put in the description of the video I don't know about the functions

@@fixitcolton Angel's eyes I had to buy some different ones since the ones you put in the description no longer sold them, which have a relay where they have the connections for angel's eyes and angel's eyes and their relay I connected it to the rl45 relay, with rs40 socket that you used in the video, the directional ones I did not modify them I will leave them as they are And my other question is once I connect everything in this light (I'm doing the left light, on the pilot's side),I'll have to remove the light from angel oem's eye and put the new

Yea, it's the ground. It sounds like a wire is loose and causing incorrect flow somewhere. Make sure that ground is secured down, and try and find a hot wire that is touching casing/metal, etc.

I believe in this video I had the HKS Sequential on. That one can get old though. I now have the Greddy Type-S again.

Aw man... that's rough. I know exactly what you mean about not seeing properly. That's why I spent 15 minutes trying to thread that hidden downstream one because I KNEW the resistance couldn't be normal, even though it really looked straight in from my obscure angle. Did you have more trouble with the upper ones or lower ones?

@@fixitcolton yhea haha, i wish they were place somewhere easier, after both o2 hole were rethreaded with a thread chaser and with new o2, everything was super easy. However while doing this o2 stuff, my valve cover (gasket?) decided to fail, got a new aluminium one ill have to installl someday

It's amazing how one mis-threaded/broken bolt or part can screw up your whole day, lol... I know it all too well. Good luck with the valve cover. This is an old video of mine, but maybe this VCG tutorial will help: th-cam.com/video/fgyVOJ_tYrk/w-d-xo.html Have a good rest of your week 🙃

@@fixitcolton yes haha, i was working on my sister fiat 500 for over 5 hours because of a broken lug bolt.. ended up changing the knuckle completly. Ill take a look at your video when i got some time! ive done it a few times but its always good to get new tips, Enjoy the rest of your week too !

I did, but it wasn't too bad. Here is the entire tutorial, step by step: th-cam.com/video/XZ3ABeNICPg/w-d-xo.html The only way to do that is to permanently mount something on a spot that can be replaced, like a trim panel. There are 10" units, but they are slow compared to this one. I have some in other cars that are good enough, but they don't look factory like this.

Thanks so much! I'm glad it helped 🙃

Pre-LCI 335i E92

Yea, I believe that as long as it's DDR4, you're good. The MHz should just match. You may also want to pay attention to the clock cycle on the RAM, sometimes you can do better there. You can search your mother board and see what the max specs. Good luck 🙃

Yea, it's not always identical. There are different types of O2 sensors as well. This won't work for everything. You can try to source your OEM wiring schematic for your O2 sensor and then match up the wire types on the universal one.

You're welcome! Yea, it's tough to buy stuff sometimes. Maybe eBay?

.. wait. are americans now calling intakes, inlets 😂🤣😅 ... americans and their crazy language

It's all part of the air intake tract, but inlets are what we are paraphrasing as the part that connects to the turbo compressor housing entrance.

@@fixitcolton silicone/rubber hose from turbo to intake? (other wise known as intake pipes)