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Like the mini 4wd motors? They will physically fit but many of them will likely burnout because they are not designed for 6v.

@@sammybaka ahh I see I know for sure they worked on the First Mini Z series. I tried fitting the Light Dash on one and it worked

I'm using a flysky nb4

It's from MB003B. The bumper is used by Optima.

I've been using some MST ball diff grease, but any ball diff grease would do. Ball diff grease is thick and sticky to help with contact adhesion between the balls and diff plates.

@@sammybaka thatnk you very much, was a bit worried when looking at the options for ball diff grease as it might be too thick.

How are those shocks? This ESC has the same programming as hobbywing ezrun 18a. It uses the same program table, program card, and button operations.

This is the MZP243BL. The ma020 in this photo has a wide front and 98mm wheel base. Rear is the regular narrow width.

Yeah that's possible. You can try another seller like www.aliexpress.us/item/3256803447291239.html

That's a GL Racing GLR

I might end up picking up the Losi. If I do I can check out if the shocks can work here. Coincidentally, my GT24 uses Losi shocks (and aftermarket shock towers), but from the old 1/24 SCT.

@@sammybaka Yep, heard those were an option, but since they're out of production, it'd be nice if a now available set will work. Though based upon pricing, the oil filled Carisma shocks might be a better buy.

I kept hearing that the carisma shocks are leaky though. They look nice and the price is attractive otherwise. These old Losi shocks I use appear on eBay sometimes. The custom 3d printed shock towers by Matsucars might be harder to find at this point.

I use the Flysky NB4 transmitter. The receiver used here is a DasMikro afhds3 micro receiver.

@@sammybaka I’m using the mini28 ESC and flysky GMR receiver and have not had any success getting the receiver to go into bind mode.

@@MultiAp101 i have that receiver too. what did you try to put it in bind mode?

@@sammybaka hold the bind button on the receiver and turn on the ESC. once the esc is on and the receiver starts flashing release the bind button. The receiver should continue to flash showing it in bind mode. Mine does not do this, once I release the bind button it stops flashing. For some reason it will not go into bind mode. I’ve tried 3 of the same GMR receivers and they all do the same thing. My ESC has not been calibrated as it takes the controller/transmitter to do so but I cannot bind it to do so.

That's odd, especially with 3. I don't have any solid suggestions here. Make sure the surface you are working on is not conductive. Maybe try a different esc? Maybe try to bind anyway. With the GMR, nb4 needs to bind in enhanced receiver mode.

Thank you. The whole bumper is part of the reflex bumper made specifically to fit the jomurema hard body.

It's best to shop between sites for parts availability and prices. I like to get a bunch of stuff at the same time from banzaihobby.com, but I've also purchased things on amainhobbies, wolframrc.com, helidirect.com, etc. DS Racing LF-1 (20mm inner diameter) MDW017: front one way diff MDW024: rigid axle diff GLR-003-S: GLR front spring set AWD-10/3: 3Racing metal CVDs The exact model of gyro to get depends on the revision of the ma-020 mainboard (green vs blue board). Mine is the older green board and uses the MZW431 gyro.

These are the kyosho plastic rims and they are narrow and +0 offset. Reference number is MDH100W-N0.

0 offset for the 14mm rear. If i run 11mm wide wherls, I'd use 3mm offset rims.

@@sammybaka what are you running in front

@@MultiAp101 In this video, I'm running PN KS soft low-profile slick 11mm tires, but normally I run standard 8.5mm tires, PN KS medium low-profile slick (KS1038).

@@sammybaka I’m sorry but I meant what wheel offset for your front.

@@MultiAp101 +2 usually but sometimes +1 too.

Thank you! Assuming you are referring to upgrading a brushed mb-010 to a brushless mb-010 with the same chassis (i.e: not this carbon chassis), then Kyosho sells a brushless electronics kit that makes it easy, but it is expensive. Look for MBW2019B. No soldering required.

@@sammybaka i have the the mbw2019C wich looks the same is this esc also easy to install without soldering?

Actually my bad, it seems like you will need to solder the two power wires to the battery terminals. Also, be careful when disconnecting and connecting the flat cable between the two boards; I once broke a solder joint there.

If you are referring to the plastic drift tires, yes they are really difficult to remove. I haven't succeeded in removing them from the rims on my ma-020 kit. But I know it's possible.

I find that the battery space allows for more thickness than a standard GL 2s battery. The battery brace on the v2 chassis allows for even additional flexibility because the height/tension can be adjusted by the screws on the brace. Currently, I use Gens Ace 2s 400mah battery (www.amainhobbies.com/gens-ace-2s-lipo-battery-60c-7.4v-400mah-gea4002s60jst/p1409127

@@sammybaka link doesnt work. Can u recc a similar one that i think will fit?

@@chenglo8999 Sorry it's picked up the extra right parenthesis. Try this www.amainhobbies.com/gens-ace-2s-lipo-battery-60c-7.4v-400mah-gea4002s60jst/p1409127 . Otherwise, look at GL Racing 2s 360mah or PN Racing 2s 380mah on sites like wolframrc.com .

I don't think we can buy the rear DWS upgrade with a wide setup, but you can get mdw100-07 to add to it.

In the mini-z product line up, the only one that can drift is ma-020/ma-030evo, but it's AWD drifting instead of rwd. This is the simplest. RWD drifting is more complicated and expensive. There's an upcoming third party product called MRD which is a RWD conversion kit for ma-020, but it's not available yet. To go further with RWD drifting, you can look into brands such as DriftArt, MA Racing, Atomic DRZ, etc.

Thank you. It feels quite different on the track. Less weight, especially at the top, means the car is much more nimble. Compared to a hard body, it accelerates and brakes faster, and can go around corners at a faster speed. It feels really good to drive. With a proper front bumper, front side collision is pretty manageable. However, lexan bodies don't provide any protection from side or rear hits.

@@sammybaka Thank you sir for sharing. Looking forward getting one to try it! Have a nice day ahead sir!

In the video description, please look for contact information for Sai Lai. Facebook (facebook.com/sai.lai.37625) or Whatsapp (+85291911193)

There are a soft and hard version of these tires. They are quite inexpensive but I don't recommend them. The performance of the carisma rally pin tires is much better.

​@@sammybakaOk thank you sooo much!!! 🙏

This esc expects a 2S lipo. The choice of connector is up to you and the batteries you buy. A common connector used for this scale is JST-PH (3 pin, 2mm pitch). This is what I use in all my cars. Many batteries come with jst-ph but I've also seen small lipo packs with one jst-xh lead. jst-xh is conventionally used as the balance port.

@@sammybaka thank you!!!! I was losing my mind trying to find out what the connector was called.

Thanks! Step down board: www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806193082886.html

@@sammybaka Thank you for the link, now i can make mine brushless!

Awesome! Which esc are you planning to use?

@@sammybaka I'm going to use the one in the combo

Thanks for the tips. Could you help me how to find the $30 11000kv combo?

Thank you! Glad people are still looking for information about the GT24!

No I haven't tried the 12000kv motor. 2s with the 8000kv motor, even with the slowest gearing, is already too fast!

​@@sammybakaOk, thank you for the reply!!

That's no good. Are you able to get the problem addressed by the seller?

@@sammybaka they won't respond to my emails but i found the parts tree online and i stole a switch from my little brothers old car that did not work anymore so when the parts tree comes the car should be good as new

@@sammybaka also i need to learn how to solder because i want to put some of the colored leds on the back as brake and signal lights lol

Good luck! Those tiny wires and solder points can be quite challenging. Soldering is a super useful skill though so it's worth the efforts to practice.

@@sammybaka Ok, thank you!

Enjoy the trophy truck! If I must choose between oh32x02 vs mr-03, I would definitely go with the truck! It's much more interesting to build and run, and it can run in more places.

@@sammybaka Ok, thank you!

@@sammybaka do you have any recommendations for upgrades i should get (i already got the servo saver and aluminum alloy suspension) i am thinking about making a custom shell, getting the metal driveshaft a speaker for it (i bought the nitro hobbies one so idk if it comes with one i will have to wait for it to arrive to see), a led light bar and idk if there is anything else i should get or if i should get any of the stuff i just said so some recommendations would be very helpful.

@@26eckhat11 For the truck, I think the upgraded alloy shocks and dampers work really well. I think the gear differential is very functional too but I needed to do a lot of work to make it work reliably. Out of the box there was some gear mesh issues inside the diff. You can take a look at my full build video th-cam.com/video/6ns8wmGWbSA/w-d-xo.html

@@sammybaka ok thank you (by the way i have seen the build video quite a few times now lol)

It just means the criteria when the charger will stop charging. You can get it to stop at 4.18, 4.19, 4.2, 4.21, or 4.22v per cell. I set mine to 4.18v.

​@@sammybakahow do i know what to set it to?

@@hwelp A standard lipo battery does a max of 4.2v per cell, so 4.2v is the default setting.

@@sammybaka so I can leave it as is?

@@hwelp Keep at 4.2

Thanks!

Glad you were able to find some answers! Thanks for the support!

Yes it's programmable but I didn't try to play with the timing setting. Thanks for the tip and I will give it a try!

Based on amain prices: 98mm extension blocks ($8), bulkhead top cover ($10), bulkhead bottom cover ($10), and long alloy cvd (around $20). This adds up quite quickly so if you are looking for 98mm and/or wide setup, starting with the challenger is a good idea.

Thanks! Now I have a brushless system wired up, I guess I can experiment with other motors too.

I'm tempted to get it just to test it out, especially I have the rest of the truck wired up already for brushless. I couldn't find just the 1:5 gear box unfortunately, but it's still not too expensive to try.

I haven't put an ma-020 on an rcp track before so I'm not sure what tires would work well there. On RCP or carpet there will be a ton of traction and real chances of traction rolling; on that surface, I would go with harder compounds probably 30 or even 40 degree. If you are running on more slippery surfaces like at home, then you will want all the traction you can get, such as 20 degree radial.

Thanks! The buggy is more versatile and capable, while the trophy truck is more scaled and indoor friendly. If I had to pick one I would go with the buggy.

I mean if the rims of this Sambar Truck can be mounted onto the ordinary Mini-Z chassis (e.g. MA-020/ MR-03)? Thanks.

Unfortunately I could never remove the rims from the chassis. They don't use rwd or awd-style mounts though, so I don't consider them as reusable elsewhere, unfortunately.

@@sammybaka I see, thanks for reply. I will use other Mini Z ordinary rims instead.

I haven't tried but I heard it's possible. You will need to modify the top cover because of the motor sensor ports on the evo2 board.

The two links connecting the knuckles to the tie bar are in MB005.

Thanks. Yeah on high traction and high demand conditions, you need to glue the tires just like the larger scale cars. It's common to use CA glue. I read it's possible to use tire tape (double-sided tape) to help secure the tires, but not as well as using CA glue.

@@sammybaka Ah, that makes sense. Thanks!

The brand is GPM and I think this might be tough to find today. Originally I bought it at www.asiatees.com/display?id=25689