วีดีโอ

40 watt is plenty. As long as the charger sees 10v or more, it will allow charging to start.

It was around $80 when I purchased the v1 a while back. The facebook link in the description is the best way to reach Sai.

A smaller ratio will be easier to drift for sure. At the time, I didn't have a smaller gear with 0.5 MOD pitch so I went with the 15T.

I haven't tried those yet; only seen youtube videos about them. RWD drift is quite a different animal vs awd, so in many ways more fun and challenging than Mini-Z. MA-020 is more manageable, but I also encourage everyone who's into drifting to try RWD at least once. I've used my GLD (1:28 rwd drift) a lot, and I have a couple of chassis that I haven't built yet.

I don't remember exactly, but I don't think it was powered on.

@@sammybaka It ended up in my case. The buggy needs to be powered on otherwise the PC doesn't see it.

That's interesting. Unfortunately I don't have information on how to do this. The only time I recovered an under volted lipo was with another charger.

I think the led wiring on the "my first mini-z" is different. I remember someone posted a wiring diagram to make it work. I've never tried myself.

@@sammybaka thanks Man... I can do without. if i decide i need the lights i'll just buy another model they're cheap.

In the competition scene, the AWD class gets a lot of action and you are right that it's mostly BZ5 and SZ2, and I guess the new RTRC AWD belt car as well. I'd love to try those cars out but I don't have experience with them. In fact, I also have never put an AWD car on a track. From what I've read though, AWD cars take a different race line vs RWD; they enter and exit corners differently from RWD.

Have fun! Please let me know how it goes.

I'm not aware of kyosho making a mini-z rwd drift. Their main drift option is the awd ma-020. Which one are you referring to?

@ never mind I thought that kyosho sell drift mini z but I re checked and in fact no… 😅😅 sorry

Hi -- I haven't been to a track for a while, but previously I drove the GLR enough to be able to compare the experience vs a Reflex RX-28K and a GLR-GT with reflex parts. Regardless of the chassis, lexan is going to be a lot more agile vs a hard body. In general I feel the most consistent and relaxed with the GLR-GT, but the GLR comes pretty close too. I never got as smooth with the RX-28 myself, but it's probably just due to my lack of practice. By now though, GLR is pretty old so the community and part support is less common now.

Just had a glr built with some upgrades we wil see how it does against todays newer cars soon enough, wil be running it with a hard body and a 3500 motor

Search for them using "2mm bullet connectors"

I got a couple of GL ESCs from GL kits I got, and another Atomic (basically the same) separately. It's a bit older now but you can still find them at places like www.wolframrc.com/product/glf-1-glr-gt-esc-gsc-v1-2-gl-racing/2358

Yes. On these drift tires though there's not much grip so it's not easy to go fast and straight.

It required discipline I didn't know I had! It was a great place.

Hi -- this is too bad. I have some ideas to test out. If you use a gyro, could you check if it's on the right direction? (i.e: the gyro board faces down). Do you have a smooth front one-way diff? Make sure none of the wheels is too tight with the lock nuts.

@sammybaka I do have a gyro and it's on correctly, but will test the other ideas

Thank you! It's really funny to see a truck like this running fast!

@@sammybaka I ordered 2 of them- the blue one and the white one.. I just hope i can set it up properly.

@@sammybaka i just dropped off the blue and the white at the LHS today. I had to go with the AWD Chassis I'll have them back by the end of the week.I don't know how fast they will go. I think it's just the standard AWD chassis.

Thanks. Above the battery is the standard GLR carbon piece. In the front, it's using the GLR triangular front brace (GLR-009)

Thank you. The electronics is very much toy-grade on this. It doesn't work with NB4; it's its own protocol.

i just purchased the Same Noble..have you heard of any SW or HW glitches? I haven't had the chance to use it yet. I was in the shop today and a few guys were grumbling

@@gewglesux Glitches in what kind of situation? I haven't had any issue with it so far. I've raced together with 5 or 6 other racers simultaneously.

@@sammybaka Thanks for the reply. i was hearing was something about SW issues with the radio. I really wished i paid more attention. I'm glad that i didn't waste $500

@@gewglesux For me, absolutely no issue running ReadySet (white antenna) Mini-Z's and MR03 EVO. 👍

Mine has always run on 2s lipo.

@@sammybaka ok :-), Thx!

Like the mini 4wd motors? They will physically fit but many of them will likely burnout because they are not designed for 6v.

@@sammybaka ahh I see I know for sure they worked on the First Mini Z series. I tried fitting the Light Dash on one and it worked

I'm using a flysky nb4

It's from MB003B. The bumper is used by Optima.

I've been using some MST ball diff grease, but any ball diff grease would do. Ball diff grease is thick and sticky to help with contact adhesion between the balls and diff plates.

@@sammybaka thatnk you very much, was a bit worried when looking at the options for ball diff grease as it might be too thick.

How are those shocks? This ESC has the same programming as hobbywing ezrun 18a. It uses the same program table, program card, and button operations.

This is the MZP243BL. The ma020 in this photo has a wide front and 98mm wheel base. Rear is the regular narrow width.

Yeah that's possible. You can try another seller like www.aliexpress.us/item/3256803447291239.html

That's a GL Racing GLR

I might end up picking up the Losi. If I do I can check out if the shocks can work here. Coincidentally, my GT24 uses Losi shocks (and aftermarket shock towers), but from the old 1/24 SCT.

@@sammybaka Yep, heard those were an option, but since they're out of production, it'd be nice if a now available set will work. Though based upon pricing, the oil filled Carisma shocks might be a better buy.

I kept hearing that the carisma shocks are leaky though. They look nice and the price is attractive otherwise. These old Losi shocks I use appear on eBay sometimes. The custom 3d printed shock towers by Matsucars might be harder to find at this point.

I use the Flysky NB4 transmitter. The receiver used here is a DasMikro afhds3 micro receiver.

@@sammybaka I’m using the mini28 ESC and flysky GMR receiver and have not had any success getting the receiver to go into bind mode.

@@MultiAp101 i have that receiver too. what did you try to put it in bind mode?

@@sammybaka hold the bind button on the receiver and turn on the ESC. once the esc is on and the receiver starts flashing release the bind button. The receiver should continue to flash showing it in bind mode. Mine does not do this, once I release the bind button it stops flashing. For some reason it will not go into bind mode. I’ve tried 3 of the same GMR receivers and they all do the same thing. My ESC has not been calibrated as it takes the controller/transmitter to do so but I cannot bind it to do so.

That's odd, especially with 3. I don't have any solid suggestions here. Make sure the surface you are working on is not conductive. Maybe try a different esc? Maybe try to bind anyway. With the GMR, nb4 needs to bind in enhanced receiver mode.

Thank you. The whole bumper is part of the reflex bumper made specifically to fit the jomurema hard body.

It's best to shop between sites for parts availability and prices. I like to get a bunch of stuff at the same time from banzaihobby.com, but I've also purchased things on amainhobbies, wolframrc.com, helidirect.com, etc. DS Racing LF-1 (20mm inner diameter) MDW017: front one way diff MDW024: rigid axle diff GLR-003-S: GLR front spring set AWD-10/3: 3Racing metal CVDs The exact model of gyro to get depends on the revision of the ma-020 mainboard (green vs blue board). Mine is the older green board and uses the MZW431 gyro.

These are the kyosho plastic rims and they are narrow and +0 offset. Reference number is MDH100W-N0.

0 offset for the 14mm rear. If i run 11mm wide wherls, I'd use 3mm offset rims.

@@sammybaka what are you running in front

@@MultiAp101 In this video, I'm running PN KS soft low-profile slick 11mm tires, but normally I run standard 8.5mm tires, PN KS medium low-profile slick (KS1038).

@@sammybaka I’m sorry but I meant what wheel offset for your front.

@@MultiAp101 +2 usually but sometimes +1 too.

Thank you! Assuming you are referring to upgrading a brushed mb-010 to a brushless mb-010 with the same chassis (i.e: not this carbon chassis), then Kyosho sells a brushless electronics kit that makes it easy, but it is expensive. Look for MBW2019B. No soldering required.

@@sammybaka i have the the mbw2019C wich looks the same is this esc also easy to install without soldering?

Actually my bad, it seems like you will need to solder the two power wires to the battery terminals. Also, be careful when disconnecting and connecting the flat cable between the two boards; I once broke a solder joint there.