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Hi pcorf, yes they're still original. It sounds like you haven't had to do too much; all reasonable wear and tear items; good to know another TJ is still out on the road.🙂

And to you too Paul. Best of luck with the rear bank and do let me know if you have any questions.

No worries Darryl, it's an aftermarket part. If you visit Ebay and search '81230-A7030', the first result for $33.63 is the one I purchased.

Hi Paul, are you referring to the screw on hose clamp at 8:53 in the video? It's the one connecting a hose to the right side of the front rocker cover. If it for whatever reason is connected with a spring hose clamp, you'll need to loosen it with a set of pliers. Or, are you referring to the small breather pipe on top of the right side of the rear rocker cover at 14:00? If so, I'd leave it be if you're unable to pull it off. Older and brittle it might become damaged. You should still be able to swap out the gasket and plug seals with it remaining connected although it might be a little more difficult with limited access. As someone else commented, you can use some grease (or a few dabs of super glue) to secure the gasket to the cover while you locate and screw it back down.

@@billymasonpi Hi ya Billy. Thank you very much for the very quick reply. Yes, that's the area on the right-hand side. I have removed the hose clamp from the hose, but it's the hose I can't get off. Obviously, I will then be able to remove the rocker cover for detailed cleaning. Could the hose have been sealed with something! I've sorta kinda levied open the hose and sprayed with WD40, hoping that I will have better luck in the morning. Thanks Billy.

@@robynbrown2629 Ah I see. There shouldn't be anything else holding it on, so it's probably just baked on from the heat and age. In my video I gently massaged it off with my thumb while wearing gloves, careful to avoid the distributor plug, but certainly see you go with it in the morning.

Sorry Billy, I just noticed the read more in your reply, where you have already explained to try and fix it up in situ. Thank you for providing the video in the first instance, obviously, reading the comments by responders, they too are grateful that you included us when you decided to make the video.

@@robynbrown2629 No worries Paul, how did you go?

People have reported bad "plastic-y" taste and traces of pump grease in water and the need to replace all the potable water piping due to grease inside those pipes. Definitely not a safe installation.

That's true, and this pump is not used for potable water. It’s connected to a rainwater tank that supplies two toilets and two garden taps. Both garden taps have signs indicating that the rainwater is not safe for drinking. When the lever is set to "town water"-which, in my opinion, isn’t safe to drink either without adequate filtration-the pump is bypassed. We only drink water filtered through our Berkey benchtop unit.

Hi​@@mixxslave-eo7hs, this pump is not used for potable water. It’s connected to a rainwater tank that supplies two toilets and two garden taps. Both garden taps have signs indicating that the rainwater is not safe for drinking. When the lever is set to "town water"-which, in my opinion, isn’t safe to drink either without adequate filtration-the pump is bypassed.

Recieved. I get it with fluoride being an issue from townwater, but when we're using the water from the sky, it can be an issue if we start to introduce chemicals from the equipment used for moving water around. There's no perfect solution though, it's more a case of minimising chemical ingestion as i stroke water in polyester tanks and transport it with polyester pipes- all potable grade, but ultimately still liable to leach chemicals given the right conditions. Thanks for clarification in your response.

@@mixxslave-eo7hs You’re absolutely right. Although the rainwater isn’t potable, we use it on our vegetable garden and so it occurred me from what you said that this could raise concerns about potential chemical exposure through leaching. I’m not sure what the best solution is, aside from perhaps adding more filters. One factor that might help, though, is that the pump is located on the eastern side of the house, where it’s not exposed to direct sunlight, which could reduce some of the risks. This is rather interesting and has given me a lot to think about, thank you!

Most welcome, glad it helped.

Happy new year to you too@@sreckosvalina9547 ! Until this Tri Power brand from memory I pretty much exclusively used Bosch, and cannot discern any difference in performance so far. In all of my spark plug changes I've installed platinum plugs in both banks even though it's only recommended for the rear bank because it was more financially economical to buy them as a set of 6.

@@Robert-y4o4x Hi Robert, I don't believe so. It was one of the first things that I checked.

@billymasonpi no worries. I've blown an inline fuse on mine twice when in reverse. There mist be something causing it to blow. It was an 80 amp inline rise. I've since upgraded to a 125amp inline fuse. I'm going to re do some.of my wiring I have done. I'm going to change the in line fuse and add a isolation switch and redo my crimp connections. I can do better than I have.

The suspension isn't optimal, and I plan to get the bushes in the rear replaced next year, and when the car is switched off, there is some play in the steering wheel off-centre, but it's still a lovely car to drive and feels planted. The body and chassis are tight as a drum (my Kia Cerato chassis flexes up driveways as you can hear it in the door seal rubbers but not a peep from the Magna). I have some in car POV driving videos on my channel - see what you think.

Much appreciated catsurreal1655, thank you! Regarding the rough idle, Alerrecks, in the comments below, found success by cleaning his throttle body but said that it could also be worn engine mounts. I did a little research and beyond those causes it could be faulty spark plugs, MAF sensor and/or fuel filter. The latter I'll be attempting to replace his week and can report back whether it has made any difference to my idle.

Hey ozymadias7940, I agree-older 90s/00s vehicles, especially Japanese derived/Australian-built ones like the Magna (and Camry), have a level of design, engineering, and build quality that's hard to find today, especially at the price point of our former Australian-made cars. Of course, proper care and driving make all the difference. Earlier in its life, when I was younger, I did occasionally drive it harder (and even took it off-roading a couple of times!), but it spent decades primarily on the motorway, with minimal stop-start driving, which has certainly helped its longevity.

Nope, I haven't touched the transmission apart from flushing the fluid. I remember reading about the wave spring issue on the Aussie Magna Club forum back in the day and it appeared to afflict some cars and not others with no particular pattern.

​@@billymasonpithat's very true, maybe the 5 speed autos were affected more, I had a KJ AWD and it's wave spring was broken, still drove fine though, never got it fixed and my KL Verada that I currently own, I bought it 8 years ago with 98,000 on the clock, it's wave spring was broken too, but had it replaced at a cost of $1800, still going strong 8 years later.

Much appreciated, thanks AJ-Lawn!

Thanks very much Alerrecks! Given that by today's standards it's a fairly no-frills car mechanically and electronically, I can see it travelling another couple of hundred thousand kilometres with regular maintenance and care, perhaps even 1 million. Thank you also for the suggestions, I shall give the throttle body a clean, but I suspect that it's probably down to worn engine mounts like you said.

@@billymasonpi Mine idles roughly when warmed up, smooth while driving. I now understand.

Thanks Djr67, very kind. I've had parts of the car repaired/resprayed; the rear bumper after I backed into a carpark post. Although the damage was only to one corner, I asked that the entire bumper be resprayed. And, the front bumper, bonnet and wings were repaired/resprayed to address all of the stone chips and pitting from years of motorway driving. I can't remember how much the rear bumper repair/respray was but the front end work was $1,800. The rest of the paint is original, which is remarkable given Mitsubishi's paint technology wasn't great back then. That said, even if the exterior isn't where you'd like it to be, these cars can still drive wonderfully when they're well-maintained mechanically. Sounds like you're doing a great job keeping yours running strong at 274,000 km-not many a modern car are even built to last that kind of distance today.

​@@billymasonpithank you so much, last year I did a fair bit of work to the old girl, I replaced the heater core pipes, did the water pump and timing belt and replaced the valve stem oil seals, as it was starting to blow smoke and use about 1 litre of oil every 1500 k's, still uses a little oil but much better then before, being 21 years old and 274,000 k's guess it's allowed to. I did the valve stem seals with the heads on, I guess if I had the heads reconditioned it would even be better. It does drive great, I'm sure it would make it around Australia no problems.

Yep, the rear bumper reinforcement bar is pretty weak (despite making the Verada's so strong due to US safety requirements) which is why you see so many Magnas with a bowed in rear bumper, so the tow bar somewhat compensates for this, and it's good to know that it actually can protect the car.

Thanks leecasey3022!

Indeed, just a shame that the part failed so early.

@billymasonpi I opened my broken one and figured out the issue. Plastic lever cracked and separated. I super glued it back on and then discovered that using the key remote unlocking put less stress on the weak plastic lever than using the driver side pull up mechanism.

@@dazzystart That's a great idea to extend its lifespan. Typically, we either use the key, like you do, or press the button beneath the bootlid. Interestingly, on my Mitsubishi Magna, it was the cable that snapped a few years ago, not a failed actuator.

Hi eldridgecane5872, ideally you start the procedure with the steering in the position it is in when you're driving down a straight road. So if it's a little off centre, leave it in that position before starting. Then as you're performing the adjustment, if you wish to keep the car running, you can observe the steering wheel returning to the straight ahead.

Thanks jimmyhsv7791. Although aware of RA, for some reason I overlooked the site when searching for a replacement. I can see they are cheaper than Aussie online stores even after currency conversion and shipping, so this become very handy, thanks again!

@ no problem mate. Thanks for your video. Great work 👍

And just in time for summer, glad you got it sorted! Several years ago during one of the bush fire seasons, I decided to taped over the inlet beneath the left guard as the recirculate setting wasn't effectively preventing smoke from entering the cabin. I was still commuting in it and on the motorway around the Berowa area it would get particulary bad. In doing this I lost the fresh air setting (I need to roll down the windows) but it has also kept the blower motor free of debris. Just thought I'd share in case it was something you wanted to consider, as it can also help if you need to park outside under trees etc.

Thanks A-J-Lawn. It was a great cruise, better than the one we took with them in 2017 overall, but some of the shows and entertainment were lacking the same quality. And, if anybody is heading to Cairns by ship, I would recommend only taking a proper tender boat. On the return trip to the ship from Yorkey's Knob, we took one of the life boats and it was a wild ride with many people becoming sea sick.

Hi elleryaytch1062, we've since given it to family to use in their home, so I'm not certain. However, looking online at photos, model PS60GHC is almost an exact match, with the only difference I can see being the Smeg logo at the top rather than directly beneath the knobs. Everything else looks the same.

@billymasonpi thanks heaps mate!

Thanks Anton-i3f8t. Unfortunately, I had to reinstall the standard springs after encountering some issues with the right rear spring and shock setup, which I later realised, after I sold the springs, was caused by a stuffed shock. I plan to lower it again, but perhaps with coilovers this time, not sure. As for the engine mounts, I've not done this job before, but understand that the engine needs to be supported. Which one do you need to replace?

@billymasonpi the noise is coming from the front right but when i look at the right and feel the rubber of thd engine moubt it feels ok. i sent thd car to multipld mechanics suspension people and they all brush me off. i thinking of taking it to a resto company tgat do everything. its a shame the engibe has done 500k and still going strong

@@Anton-i3f8t That's a shame, I hope that you can find someone who can properly diagnose the source of the noise. Arguably, the front right engine mount should be the easiest to replace and they're pretty cheap on ebay.

Ah I see, I'll give this a try next time, thanks wheelz7au!

Great idea, thank you! I'll try this next time.

Watched your other video, yours a 6G74 👍

​@@nabeelkz4389 Thanks nabeelkz4389! Yes, it’s indeed a 6G74. I’ve only ever been a passenger in Magna/Verada models with the 6G72. The first time was as a teenager in a friend's parent's KR or KS Verada EI wagon and all I remember was how smooth and quiet that car was (my parents had a Mitsubishi Starwagon at the time, with a noisy 2L carby). Later, in 1998, I rode in a TF sedan when my friend’s parents took it for a test drive. With four people onboard, it was again super smooth but lacked punch. And that’s where the 6G74 shines-it offers a moderate power bump and a significant torque boost, making it a much better and more relaxing drive, in my opinion. What I like: Plenty of get-up-and-go-even after nearly 600,000 km, there’s been no noticeable drop in performance. Absolute bulletproof reliability, I have no doubt it could run to 1 million km with basic servicing. A sweet exhaust note with the Lukey muffler, and I love the tonal change when it shifts from 2nd to 3rd at wide-open throttle. It's easy to service (the intake covering the rear bank is no big deal, in my opinion) and parts are still plentiful and cheap. What I dislike: It idles a bit rough at a standstill in Drive, but shifting into Neutral smooths it out. Once on the move, it’s smooth as silk. The rocker cover seals leak and need regular replacement-thankfully, it’s a cheap and easy fix (I always keep a spare set in the shed). While it was considered fuel-efficient back in the day, by today’s standards, it’s a bit of a gas guzzler if only driven around town. Despite all this, the engine is one of the main reasons I’ll never sell this car. It’s just such a joy to start up and drive.

Most welcome!

Hi armandeepjassa4360, I'm sorry for the delay in responding. The cover does a great job of protecting the entire suitcase, but my wife chooses not to use it because it’s tricky to install and doesn’t aesthetically compliment a suitcase that’s designed to stand out.

Thanks alleywatch22, my positive opinion hasn't changed after using it again the other day. After many months unused it was almost fully charged, and started the car effortlessly, better than jump starting off another car in my opinion. The key though as you mentioned is to wait about 30 odd seconds before turning it over.

Hi dreamhomes6249, I run a grey water hose from the machine just outside of the garage where it can discharge and disperse over some decorative pebbles covering dirt. There is also an accessible stormwater drain but I'm unsure about discharging grey water into it. Anyway, when the machine is not in use, I hang the hose up to dry and store the hose inside the washing machine drum.🙂 See video from about 9:50.

Just this one.🙂

Hi TheEffortless Man, I'm glad that you have found the video helpful, thanks! The system has been flawless, looking as good as new, with no leaks, and has significantly improved our water quality, particularly by removing chlorine, which is quite prominent in our Central Coast water supply. I recently inspected the filters, and gave the sediment filter a rinse, but haven't changed the others yet, as there's been no impact on water pressure or quality. It’s held up really well over the past year that I would happily recommend it.

Most welcome, glad it helped!

Thank you mickt3258 for catching my error, indeed that rubber washer should be installed between the strainer and the sink. Thankfully, it appears to be relatively easy and quick fix to relocate it. Thanks again. :)

Most welcome, glad it helped!

Thanks kennybo, I didn't consider that the battery was intefering with the compass, but I agree that it's a rather odd addition to a jump starter. :)

Hi martinharding7813, certainly.The skirt is secured to the underside using a lightweight, ladder-shaped plastic frame. This frame is attached with several screws. To attach the skirt, first ensure the outer part of it is correctly aligned before fastening the frame. Once the frame is screwed into place, use a small flathead screwdriver to carefully press the inner part of the skirt into the grooves of the frame. The skirt on my black Hovercraft has several tears, and adding tape to seal them has increased the weight, preventing it from lifting. It seems there's a delicate balance between the amount of material used in the skirt, and number of the holes in it, to maintain lift.

Hi Alerrecks, they do, that's correct. If these fail, the window won’t be properly pressed/seated against any part of the door seal.

@@billymasonpi thank you! Do you know if these are a universal part that can still be purchased?

@@Alerrecks I don't believe that there's a universal part, although one could be fashioned up I suppose to fit, but after some digging I managed to find the actual name and genuine part number for it which I've placed into the description. It was completely different to what I thought it would be called! 🤔 It appears that they can still be purchased new for a couple of dollars US but the shipping might be expensive. However, I'd recommend checking to see if they're actually broken first and either super gluing them back together which worked well for me, or swapping them around with one that isn't broken from another door. Failing that I have a spare that I can send to you which I sourced from the wreckers.

@@billymasonpi thank you for the information! My idea was to design and 3D print these. I'll check it out, thanks so much for your continued assistance!!

@@Alerrecks My pleasure, keen to know how you get on with the 3D printing idea.😀

Thanks Knackers_Oreilly, very kind and I appreciate your insight into the top up charge and jumping starting process. For such a small unit I was impressed at how effortlessly it managed to start the car, even multiple times, on a single charge.