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Your suggestion of going with grease, is only relevant if you put low miles per year on your trailer. If you are a professional running 75,000-100,000 miles per year, you would need upwards of 10 or more grease changes on your grease hubs. If you are running oil bath hubs, change your oil every 40,000 miles, and you’re golden. You can also buy metal Valcrum oil hub caps, for better security against road damage to your oil hub caps.

All Dump Trucks are single telescopic for a reason and have 2 solid beams down the middle under the bed, prevents bed rippling. Don't load rock daily on these.

I had 2004 Bass Boat, the trailer had oil bath hubs. Traded it off in 2021 and never had to touch them . I routinely traveled from Wv . To North Carolina and Virginia

That outro 😂

I've used both...I'd say it depends on the length of trailer and what you're doing with it. Anything longer than 24 feet, you want gooseneck otherwise it gets sketchy. A short trailer like a typical 14 foot dump works fine bumper pull. A gooseneck can be a pain to backup or turn into a tight spot because it turns wide. Backing a 24 foot gooseneck into a typical 20 foot wide driveway off a typical highway/road with a typical HD truck (or dually) is difficult...the turn is so wide you must go off road to place the trailer...almost have to do everything perfect for it to work...anything longer than that or if you can't go off the side the road, it is almost impossible and you need more room. Hooking up isn't horrible, but does take more time and stuff in the truck bed might be in the way...those little things kinda make it seem like a pain. Goosenecks can haul more because the load is on the truck axle, but the actual gooseneck weighs more so it's a wash when talking about up to 14,15, to 16k trailer people use (it becomes more important for larger, heavier trailers). The plus side of a gooseneck is you can turn around really sharp, but this is really rough on the tires. It does ride better, but honestly not as much as people make it out to be. If it's a rough road, nothing going to fix that. The plus side of bumper pull is it follows, backs up, and tracks with the truck better. Really easy to hook up and drop off, especially with a camera. Lower profile trailer with less weight. All your junk can stay in the bed. More readily available and cheaper to purchase...easier to resale. My 2 cents is a bumper pull is best for most people. If you're towing 14k+ LB on a 24+ foot trailer longer distances, you need gooseneck though...safety is not worth risking. Most people aren't pulling 24 foot+ trailers and if they are, they're light weight.

Could’ve just said YES OR NO🤦🏽‍♂️

I'd never ever say that a bumper pull trailer is easier to tell in what way ever is it goosenecks always pull straighter and usually bounce around a whole lot less than a then a bumper pull they even made gooseneck trailers for VW bugs and you were able to turn all the way around and back the vehicle up with the trailer in front of it or vice versa super unusual situation but never came upon a trailer that was easier to tell than a gooseneck

Does this apply to pulling a travel trailer ? I've got friends that pull a huge travel trailer with a pickup and are probably over 26k pounts, but only have a regular license

You didn't address the heavier weight of the gooseneck trailers. I have both and often used the bumper pulls because I can haul more weight and keep within my licensed limit.

Farmers aren’t required to have cdls

Puhh...idiots

To haul that much weight you better have CDL's

Apply to WIOA for a grant to get the CDL schooling.

Thanks dude!

I dunno what you were trying to prove here. Seemed pretty pointless to me.

Learning how to hotshot for a change of career! Hoping to be self employed at least with 1099 work soon! (LLC coming soon) Thanks for the help, baby steps!

I got my class A for 15% discount on porno in Evanston....

Super annoying to hear people repeatedly say “twenty six thousand and one pounds” over and over, while holding up their index finger..😆🙄 Not to mention, it makes you incorrect. You state, “hauling OVER twenty six thousand and one pounds, absolutely need CDL.” This would technically imply that hauling EXACTLY 26,001 lbs would not need CDL, which would be dead wrong. A person just makes themselves sound silly saying it that way. Totally unnecessary also. The legal threshold is either up to 26,000 or over 26,000. Therefore, it’s pretty unnecessary to repeatedly say “twenty six thousand and one pounds…” Or the even sillier variant, “twenty six thousand and one pounds or above..” A person sounds like a child when they express it like that. What’s next? “Twenty six thousand and one and two and three and four..”🤦‍♂️ Just say it like an adult. “Anything over twenty six thousand pounds falls under the CDL category. Twenty six thousand pounds or less does not.” There. Concise, correct, and mature sounding.👍

Say I buy a manual dodge ram 3500 and tow a 40 foot trailer with it gvw more than 26k . Would I be allowed to operate that combination with a class a auto restricted license? I know you can drive that truck on its own without a cdl in general but does the combination make things different

I have driven dump trucks and semi truck with end dump trailer- both can be very sketchy dumping on uneven ground. That is why I chose to go with the dual cylinders- stability/ safety. The trailer I bought, which is a Texas Pride trailer, gooseneck, triple 7K axles, charges the batteries when plugged into the truck and, an extension cord can plug into the trailer to operate an onboard trickle charger. For those asking how to get one - go online to Texas Pride Trailers, request information and someone got back to me within a couple hours. I placed my order and received the trailer in four weeks!

I would say goosenecks are safer to load heavier with a 3/4 Ton than a bumper pull would be with the same truck.

@1:28 an F450 is not 8000lbs...

If you transport Commercially?? Right. What if you don't transport anything Commercially. It wasn't that clear up front.

I have a 20' 10k bumper pull. I wanted to upgrade so looked at some 14k 20' GN ones from the same manufacturer. The GN ones only had 150# more load capacity due to them being so much heavier. So I just stayed with what I have.

Just to clarify - Wheel bearing grease IS combustible just like oil. While its not "flammable" it can still catch fire if it drips or gets sprayed onto hot brakes. So your statement while somewhat right is not true. BOTH can catch fire.

What is the best grease fitting to use so you do not have to repack the bearings all of the time? Thanks....Dave

There is never a scenario where a bumper pull is better than a gooseneck. Ever. You don’t always need a gooseneck and bumper pull will work fine but it’s never better. First time trailer towers are safer with a gooseneck because the gooseneck is inherently safer full stop. Not always necessary but always safer. Don’t be afraid of a gooseneck. They aren’t always as convenient but they are always safer.

The telescopic dump system is how most lumber yards and gravel flat bed dump trucks used to be. I was dumping for Payless castaways in 95 in San Angelo and I used to own a 70 C50 with C60 springs I was the 3rd owner loved that truck, I miss it. :). I used to work for a guy at one time used to step the wings off of aeronautical vehicles. I understand the engineers glee.

Are we sure it is a CDL or a Class-A license that is required? DPS explained to me that in Texas there is both a "Class-A" license and a "Class-A CDL" license. The first type (Class-A) allows over 26,000 combined weight for personal towing (provided not crossing state lines), but if one is paid for the work, then a "Class-A CDL" is required. Can someone confirm this?

A gooseneck trailer can be pulled on the bumper pull hitch ball.

The tongue weight gets added to the truck's GVW; does that mean it get subtracted from trailers GVW? For example if the CAT scale has trailer axle weight of 15,000; do you have to add the tongue weight back to the trailer to get the trailers GVW? I notice that the trailer axles are rated at 9k thus the trailer can only carry 18k with at least 2k on the tongue making it 20k; however, I have a dual axle trailer with 3,800 lbs axle rating and a GVWR of 7,600 (the tongue weight is not added to the trailers GVWR). So, does one use the axle rating or the GVWR rating in the later case? i.e. if the trailer is loaded to 8k (weighted by itself) and when hitched it transfers 800 lbs of tongue weight to the truck leaving only 7,200 lbs on the trailers axles; is the trailer over weight?

No way 2020 f450 has a curb/empty wieth of 6000 lbs. Specs say 8000lbs plus depending on model 4x2 or 4x4.

If i never go to California can i tow a trailer over 10k if my combined gvwr is under 26k ?

Me encantó

Dumb ass videos

A huge point was missed here. When seals break down over time, the grease seals will hold the grease in better and "sweat" longer. Oil hubs will usally go from sweating to leaking really fast. I ran hotshot with 8k grease torsion axles and used the EZ lube system for swapping Grease usually every 15-20k until my seals began to sweat. Then I would do a full repack. Never had any issues. I run Schaeffer's grease. Much better product than lucus Red & Tacky for longevity and extreme climates.

Look up your state vehicle code for commerce. Licensing & registration is state vehicle code for commerce. The drivers license you have is a Class C CDL it might not say it on it, but it is. The auto insurance you have to buy for your licensed & registered vehicle is for commerce the transportation of freight & passengers for a fee which is why insurance companies can charge you a higher premium based on your credit score. According to the U.S. Supreme Court and several other high courts we the people have the Right under Liberty to Travel upon this Nations Highways and Byways unrestricted by Licensing , registration , and forced Insurance. We can legally add our automobiles to our Home Owners or Renters Policy as an household item used for personal travel and be covered. What the State does with the help of the Dealerships is to seize your automobiles Certificate of origin which is the true title to your automobile at the time of purchase without the buyers permission to force the buyer in to compliance with Licensing & registration is an act of fraud. You don't need a License to Travel.

But its okay to drive a 30ft camper attached to a 30ft trailer attached to a vehicle being towed. Thats okay no cdl required nothing to see here.

I welded bumper pull and gooseneck dump trailers at Big Tex here in Madill, Oklahoma. Just saying I wouldn’t spend my hard earned money on a big Tex trailer. Around here popular are Big Tex, PJ, WW, CM, S&H to name a few. People nicknamed these big Tex trailers “big flex” lol. There’s stories of a few come in less than a year old or brand new broke in half or tongue snapped off. Some even apparently weren’t loaded to full capacity. The true is any large manufacturer cares about numbers and not quality. I have heard good things about double diamonds or something like that and Texas pride.

This information is dead wrong. I own both types in multiple lengths and a gooseneck will rip the front off a car WAY easier than a bumper pull when turning into a driveway or tight intersecting street. It follows the truck much more closely due to the mounting position, making you have to swing the truck much wider to make the same corner. Also...Goosnecks SUCK BALLS to back up. I can thread the needle no sweat with any of my bumper-pulls, but the goosenecks are a PITA to back into tight spots, because you have to push the truck out of position much farther to get the same angle of travel at the trailer and you often don't have the room to swing the truck that wide. Also...if you turn as tight as he's showing in the video with a gooseneck that has a decent load on it...you're going to break an axle or at the very least tear the tire off the bead.

Well, I didn't understand much. I gave it a dislike.

Get rid of those crappy plastic caps. Aluminum caps are the way to go. Also, I have run both types for 100's of thousands of miles and those damn friction fit grease caps ALWAYS come off. Grease everywhere and same problem, bearings are scewed because of all the debris that got into the grease since you didn't know the cap come off 400 miles back. Bottom line is whatever you go wtih, there will be problems just keep an eye on stuff and keep spares.

Most states got different commercial laws

Is the torque setting for this video assuming 2-piece flange nuts? Where the flange rotates around the nut?

Can always buy new trailer and derate it. Just stay under the technical weight limits. Can you carry a fatty once yes. But every day?

On an air ride trailer, 40'. Do you deflate the air bags to jack up your trailer to change your tites

You loaded the first trailer to the point that it cannot dump the box. You called that the max. If it cant dump, you are over the max of what the trailer can deal with. Right?

Great concise explanation 😊

Anyone ever replace the oil with grease ?

Thanks