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Everything is not always as it seems. Give the construction adhesive some credit. Also, no indication this has actually been moving, pretty good chance. It's been like this for 3 decades or more... Purely belt & suspenders

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Thank you for your kind complement! We strive to put accessible information out there for homeowners and contractors so that everyone is more educated about the trades.

Yes.

In a basement, it could be condensation from ductwork if you aren't running a dehumidifier depending on which climate zone you are in. We've also seen bees build a nest in a joist bay, which causes staining on the drywall Sometimes its a plumbing leak.... But 9 times out of 10... its an exterior water leak either in a roof, a vent, a pipe collar, a window, a siding or stucco issue, etc...

This project was a while ago, but if I remember correctly, we were fairly happy with the look of the step flashing as it was and did not have any qualms about allowing the water to run below our PVC board, on down to where it would meet the next roof. Technically, yes, we probably could have kicked out around the PVC board... And I suspect the next set of people who roof this will do that because they aren't going to be able to access what's behind the PVC freeze board... But at the end of the day, either way, I'm very confident that we have this watertight. Thanks for jumping into the conversation. We love having other pros on our channel!

where is it dripping from? Ceiling drywall? Ceiling exhaust fan? Light fixture? Top of a window? Could be the shingles... could be a pipe collar... could be an exhaust vent...

i haven't seen the larger, commercially, but any roofer or siding company who has a sheet metal brake can bend one from aluminum coil stock. Our local ACE hardware has a rental division, and I suspect if you bought a roll of metal from their flashing asile, they'd probably allow you to bend it on the brake for free there in the store.

The step flashing from the roof to wall interface had slipped... probably when the roof was replaced, and at least one of the pieces was overlapped in the wrong sequence... in front, when it should have been behind... acting as a funnel and directing water into the home. We diagnosed this with a garden hose.... and someone inside watching for leaks... we started at the bottom and SLOWLY... 2 to 4 minutes per foot, worked our way up the roof until the person inside cried "I have water!" then you can start tearing it apart at that point. Obviously vinyl siding is easier than stucco... but it can be done.

Yes. Hello Neighbor! Welcome to our channel. We are licensed in DE and NCC as GC5534. How can we help? Note: We don't serve city of newark and city of wilmington due to separate licensing requirements, and simply not enough demand for our services in those areas to justify that added paperwork, red-tape, and expense. Same for Maryland. Generally speaking, we consider Kirkwood highway to be the southern limit of our service area.

The Trex Rain Escape system has funnels... they call them "downspouts" here's a link to the "downspout" install video from their channel th-cam.com/video/m_S1EwIUDrc/w-d-xo.html and they have a second video for when you have to modify a downspout to fit around an obstruction like a railing post. th-cam.com/video/mpE171-0dpo/w-d-xo.html Or if you have to put it in on an angle. th-cam.com/video/XopgKHoMcCI/w-d-xo.html And if you have 2nd story downspouts that need to drain through your deck, they offer two suggestions for how to handle that here... th-cam.com/video/-ilYjn57XUo/w-d-xo.html Thanks for watching... If you found this helpful, please subscribe to our channel, and give this video a LIKE so that TH-cam knows we're producing helpful content and will share it with other viewers like you :-)

Step one is to educate yourself on the process of getting the flashing layers correct, and specifically the head flashing of the windows... & doors... Brick is a porous material and water is going to get behind it. Hopefully it was installed with an air gap behind it to allow for drainage and drying and when the doors and windows are installed, that air gap needs to be maintained to give the water a path to daylight. This playlist will give you a little bit of a master class on that concept... And I will include a second follow-up comment to Joe lestebrik's class, specifically an area on brick. th-cam.com/play/PLHM_Hinmgh2In7R4suJcYVCk3xD4Sugj-.html

Here another conversation specifically about brick, queued up to the portion of the video where he explains what happens if you get too much mortar between the brick and the sheathing on the wall. th-cam.com/video/rem5WhFiiwU/w-d-xo.html

Here are some raw unedited videos of a customer who had Stone in the front of their house that we applied a masonry penetrating sealer to in order to stop her water leak. I consider this to be a bit of a last resort... But short of removing her windows and some of the stone in the front of her house, I didn't have another way to fix this. So the penetrating sealer was cheaper and less risky than taking down the stone. (May not play on an Apple, iPad or iPhone device due to animosity between Apple and Google). photos.app.goo.gl/A7UQoi7EhX8mYdpq8

That would explain why all the gaps were open at the bottom... but I have no idea how they would have gotten it out... I'm thinking, built in the 1950s with 1x12 barn boards for the roof deck... there wasn't a ridge board in the initial install... the beams are full size 2" x 6" - none of this nominal stuff 1.5x5.5 that we use today.

I’m with you. Aside from the unlikelihood, there would be signs of nail removal had the ridge board been removed. Maybe the rafter separation is from the removal of the supports. Are the joists fastened to the rafters? Makes me wonder if the walls are spreading out. Peace.

It's a cinderblock building... no evidence that the walls are moving. Possible that it sagged when whoever cut out the diagonals and whatever collar ties may have originally existed when they added the knee walls... but I don't know enough about the history of the building to know for sure. We'll add some more collar ties in the future before a new roof goes on. Def don't want the roofers dropping full bundles on the ridge, loading it up with several tons of new asphalt.

Like you said, the joists are taking care of the walls. The lack of a ridge board is fascinating to me. Good luck with your project. Thanks for posting.

I have purchased new screens on a replacement roller system from the manufacturers and installed them in the past... NOTE... the directions they supplied were not clear... You can probably buy a new latch if the clip has broken off... but you have to determine if its the latch that broke... or the ledge which the latch clips on-to.

Larson handles are often sold separately ($50), and generally have a square metal bar going through the door as the "axle" and each handle connects the the square bar by slipping on the end, and is fastened in place with a hex drive set screw. Grab your allen keys, look for the hex screw head in the round part of the shaft handle and see if you can loosen it... push the handle further onto the square metal axle, and then tighten it again. You may have to repeat on the opposite handle as well. These handle kits sometimes come with a plastic or nylon shoulder washer... if that breaks and falls out, it will create slopp in the action of the handle. if this helps, please like our video, like this comment, and subscribe to our channel. thanks :-)

@@CopeBUILT thanks for the detailed response. I'll look into it promptly. Liked and subbed. 👍🏼

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This was a long time ago, but I believe our guys were using the large-format tile and stone mortar from MAPEI...

Here is a link to the playlist.... th-cam.com/play/PLHM_Hinmgh2JffqMrFjk627km8o20KKr2.html

I don't like them in living spaces... I'd rather have the full room height, rather than a tiny reading nook. They aren't bad in attics for allowing in natural light and they help break up a large sloped roof visually so its not just one giant wall... but a reverse gable in the middle could do the same thing.

You're welcome. Did you have a skylight leak?

great question... when the garage door is shut and viewed from the exterior, you should only be able to see finished products.... be that painted wood trim boards, or PVC trim, or aluminum capping with a weather strip against the door. When viewed from the inside, it is not uncommon to see the edge of the 2x8 jamb framing, maybe the jack stud or the trimmer... or in some cases, there is no drywall at all on the inside walls, and all of the framing is exposed. In some cases, the garage door tracks are secured directly to the 2x8 or 2x6 framing studs just inside the door. If you were custom building your home, you'll need to review the contract specifications regarding the garage to see what was agreed upon prior to construction. Hopefully, details like this were clearly articulated, and not just left up to assumption. If you purchased this home after it was build, then you are at the mercy of whatever the builder / prior owners agreed to. You can always hire a contractor to come add drywall, or aluminum capping, or PVC trim boards as appropriate. The biggest issue we see in garages, is the builders add a Tape Coat to the 5/8" drywall for "fire rating" but they never paint it. 3 years later, moisture and humidity breaks down the glue, and the tape starts falling off the ceiling. We would recommend painting the garage with a semi-gloss or gloss paint to protect the drywall and tape from moisture. Alternatively, you can add 1x3 or 1x4 wood strips to cover all the joints, to prevent the tape from failing. Its still a good idea to paint and seal the drywall. Please subscribe for more great content!

That's a great question. For the most part, clients have not asked us to go tearing apart interior trim looking for problems.... And if they are lucky, these were one time events that suddenly leaked and they called us to fix it promptly. However, it's possible a little bit of water was leaking in during every rain storm and only showed up during the heaviest of rain. In that situation, mold is a possibility. My understanding is that mold requires a couple of things to grow. A substrate to grow on, water, and a dark warm place. Once we take away the water, I don't think it's going to grow or spread that much. And it's contained behind the wall, which means there's nothing to spread the mold spores around until such time as someone doesn't renovation. So I typically don't stress out about it unless a client has has asthma or severe allergies. I typically ask these questions and if they respond in the negative, we don't take it any further. I do have two clients who are very sensitive and we absolutely always go overboard for them when it comes to these types of concerns. I am far more concerned about whether the OSB or plywood sheathing on the exterior of the house still has the rigidity to do its job... Then I will do about whether or not it's turned a little black on the outside or whether there might be some small amount of mold hidden within the walls. There are several companies out there who make an awful lot of money scaring people about the potential health hazards. I personally have a friend who is misdiagnosed with having Crohn's disease, which later turned out to be the result of living in a heavily contaminated mold-filled house.... So I'm not cavalier about this concern, but I also try to address it in moderation helping a client to weigh the risk reward ratio of doing a lot of exploratory demolition to look for what may or may not be there. One client was very concerned about the possibility of mold in the water is upstairs bedroom where they experience the water leak in the window below, and we drilled two 5-in holes through the bedroom wall to do an inspection and then we patched the drywall and painted it When we found nothing. Every homeowner has a different risk tolerance and a different budget and we try to work with each accordingly

If you enjoyed this, we have many more in our "marketing" playlist... Drew writes parodies on a regular basis to use as commercials in various networking meetings he attends.

I don't specifically remember... I think I mocked it up with a piece of cardboard and a razor knife first... but the roof pitch was probably a 5/12 or a 6/12....

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If only you had been here... you could have helped record that for us! :-)

Maybe... but I've seen a lot of "remediation companies" come in with their Thermal imaging cameras or their FLIR cameras and declare that every cold spot was water damage, when really, it was just a lack of insulation or thermal bridging... but they wave that camera around like some kind of a magic wand with x-ray vision that allows them to 'definitively state in no uncertain terms' exactly what the problem is, and how many tens of thousands of dollars it's going to cost, and how they'll handle everything for the victim, i mean client, if they will just sign over their rights to their insurance claim on their policy... with a lot of fine print and expensive cancelation consequences. Perhaps it's a good technology that has its place... and might be a good tool to one day add to my tool box... but so far, I'm not convinced that its essential. Process of elimination works just fine for me. You haven't uploaded any videos to your profile... Do you have some relevant experience with this technology that you'd like to share?

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Glad we could help!

Glad it helped

Rule Number 1... Water Runs Downhill... Gravity works 100% of the time... unless you create a dam, which causes water to pool up and back up the hill. 2 inches of standing water in a pool, creates a horizontal hydraulic load similar to a 35 mph wind. If you've got that window well sealed... and the house wrap above the window layered properly... and a gutter... then you need to go up and look at the roof. The water is coming in from above somewhere.

Sadly, it's going to be a meticulous process to ask friends for recommendations, check with local networking groups, chamber of commerce, BNI groups and keep asking for someone who applies a Belt AND suspenders approach to waterproofing the exterior of your home. Ask the question on you FB page and ask friends to help connect you with their network.