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@@cgk1898 he is having a “procedure”. Should be back with us shortly.

The replacements we used ride on a different spot on the axle so, yes, they do stick out farther than the originals. They also have a wider surface area, more support.

Thank You. Hope it helps!

Me being an amateur and not a professional, I'm sure it took longer than it should have. I'm guessing it took around 8 ish hours? Can't totally remember. The coils and spark plugs are fairly simple on them. They are easy to access. That's my opinion. If you are looking for a labor rate you should really consult a repair facility. I'm just a guy that likes to do things himself if possible and save a couple of dollars here and there if I can. Attempting any repair, car or otherwise, is based on your comfort level and experience. If you are not mechanically inclined or have not done much or any automotive repair work I would take the car to a repair shop. This repair is time consuming and not the easiest thing to do. Lots of things can be broken and the valve covers are not easy to get out. Quite a few items need to removed before removing the covers.

@@carguytroy the coils & sparkplugs they say its 1.5hrs & the val e gasket covers is a 4hr job....just wondering if this makes sense...do u agree?

@@jamessmothers6475 I like that idea a lot

@@carguytroy I went through, Joe's classic car radio company. It will take him 6 to 12 months turnaround, he is always booked up to restore radios and convert. He's the best in the country. You wont be disappointed.

Cut a couple of rubber heater hoses. Works like a champ!!

I would not sand it. Shouldn't have to go that extreme. The stuff that was on the Ghia had been there a while. Took some time in some areas but it came off okay. I've used a rubbing compound to get rid of paint transfer before. Wife hit something with an Expedition we had and paint from the other object transferred to the bumper. Had to work at it, but it came off eventually. Have to be careful with some of those compounds and not get in too much of a hurry. Take your time. Some of them are kind of aggressive. Pretty sure there's videos of people using that stuff. Search that and see what you find. Way less invasive than sanding. Just a suggestion.

@@carguytroy okay I'll search that and give it a shot. Thanks man.

@@carguytroy what rubbing compound did you use?

@Tony-qb4bc you can email me and I will answer what I can. My email is in the “more”section.

Hello I am not able to find a email anywhere. I just had few maintenance questions that you could maybe answer for me. like what should vavle adjustment be set at. if u have a recommended advanced timing degree. also wondered if u could tell me type of cam it has and size of intake an exhaust Valve. an oil weight recommended for the motor if different from what stock recommends. I apologize for long comment n multiple?s. But I really do appreciate any help. i def could use it. I was guessing on type of engine just knew it was a rebuild. thank you in advance and thank you for making these videos they really great. thanks again, Tony

That's cool. I don't think the email shows up on a mobile device. that might be the issue. The cam is a Webcams 163, and the engine has chromoly pushrods so the valve adjustment is a lot different than the stock procedure. You don't want to mess that one up. Heads are aftermarket. I believe I still have the info on them, but I will have to look that up. My email is carguytroy1@gmail.comm, send me an email and I'll get you the other info.

@@jimroy6869 yeah, the car hasn’t been driven since the early 90’s, has a few things to sort out.

@@tdhunt66 lost some of the video content for the drivers side. But there is a video on it.

@@roncrawley6986 yes, they are pretty easy to work on. Good old truck!

@@adam__mark the gold colored mechanism and all the rods that clip to it work the handle that opens either the glass or the whole hatch. The thing I replaced is just to get the door lock working again. If your door won’t pop open with the handle you might have a broken clip or a rod that’s not attached to the mechanism. Just a guess.

@@taylorpretzsch568 BF GOODRICH All Terrain T/A, same ones they put on the Bronco looks like. Cool truck.

Thanks! Hope it helped!

I can't picture what you are describing. Only seal I can think of is the front header seal. Which bow are you needing a seal for?

@@carguytroy it's the rear seal like when your installing all them bolts in the convertible well the well liner even attaches to it.

@@carguytroy the rear bow has three sections that goes in the back well. And window and convertible top get stapled to it but there is a seal as well.

@@carguytroy actually its the seal that is under neither the rear trim.

@@musclerussell8109 I don’t recall a seal under the rear trim that goes across the back above the trunk on either of the SN95 cars we have had. Our Fox Body and the older cars didn’t have anything there either. Just the trim piece screwed to the body.

I'm no mathematician, but I think it's 2024 and the can is from 2005. Okay so it's 19 years old. I stand corrected. 😂

@@carguytroy Sorry but i refuse to believe it.

*If that beer 🍻 was from 1970, it would be 54 years old!! The beer says 2005 on it, which makes it almost 20 years old!!! Do NOT pass go, do NOT collect $200, go directly back to kindergarten, and learn to do math again!!! The dude even tried to explain it to you, and you stuck with your theory!!!* 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣

@@firewaterbydesign I was making a joke about refusing to believe it because that means I’m getting old. Dummy. I know the math.

I think everyone who responded to this comment is missing the point the op is making. In his mind, time has flown by so quickly, 20 years ago feels as though it would be 1970. I happen to agree with his logic!

Truly

If only. I'd put it to good use!

Yes. Old antifreeze testers.