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Thanks a lot for your message! Talking about the functionality I have pretty much no things I would change. The wool is still perfect, just darker and consumed a bit here and there not even slightly to the point of replacing it. The bricks are consumed too but again, very little. They are actually easy to consume however if you don't rub the metal strongly on to it every moment, they will last. Things I would change: - (Maybe but not necessarily) Bigger door - The door hinge made with the threaded rod got stuck because of the heat. - The (not stainless) mirror finish knob wasn't shiny anymore after 1 week and rusty after 1 month. - I can't close both front and back door cause they are too tight and the flames came out from top because I've drilled the burners holes in the wool, larger than the pipes. Mistake. - The propane rubber hose on the side got warm and that made me feel uncomfy, I would keep it more far from the forge. Overall I'm still very satisfied of how the forge came out and worked, only thing It does not reach the temperature of a coal forge, but that's something we know. Thanks again!

Thanks!

Here's the size of the chassis: 60 cm lenght and 30 cm width. Important things when figuring out the size of the machine is the size of the belt, in my case 2x72 inches and the height of the two parallel front wheel, in my case it's about 28 cm from each center of the wheels. This last lenght will determinate most likely the height of the whole machine. Hope this helps, for more info feel free to contact me on my email!

Thanks mate!

Hi. As you said, the normalizing process, takes some hardness away from the steel after the quench. However it restores the micro structure by relieving the thermal stress, just like the temper does and makes it less brittle. I did not plan to use this blade so I didn't mind losing some hardness. I'm not even close to be an expert blacksmith, I'd like to know your your heat treatment recipe! :)

@@dudemakesstuff I typically do my normalizing cycles before the quench. I do three cycles at varying temperatures depending on the type of steel. This relieves the tension in the metal before the quench, reducing the risk of cracks developing. Then I temper it. Heating any metal passed the temper colours removes most of it not all the hardness, meaning the heat treat has been completely undone.

That’s why when a drill bit overheats and goes through the temper colours it has to be thrown out, all the hardness is gone and it can’t be used for its intended purpose anymore. And that’s just hot enough for the temper colours! I personally like to have as much hardness in the steel as I can after the quench, but temper the blades usually twice for an hour at 475 ish

Hi. The wool is sprayed with the hardener as you can see in the video, it avoids the fibers to tear apart over time!

Thanks a lot mate

@@dudemakesstuff ❤

Thanks!

Grazie!

Thanks!! Currently not on sale, however I'm gonna open an Etsy market in the future!

Thanks! :)

Hi. What do you mean?

Thanks a lot, nice to read that 🙏🏻🤝🏻

Hi! Actually no, I haven't even considered that, I must be honest. I read up on it and if I got it right, the junction voltage decreases slightly while temperature increases as you wrote. Would be interesting to measure the output voltage and current while using the welder after some time. How "cold" you mean the diodes to be? According to what I read, like any semiconductor, the colder it gets, the less resistance it's gonna have thus the better it will work.

@@dudemakesstuff Hello thanks you for taking your time and answering me. When I asked if it works cold, I meant that it works far from its junction temperature, which is a maximum of 125 degrees Celsius. (data sheet). I once observed several burnt diodes in a converter, and this was due to the fact that when using diodes from different batches tje diodes are not the same, and, the current is not distributed equally between the diodes, and the diode through which the most current circulated was the diode with the most power dissipated, lowering its threshold voltage and at the same time, causing greater current circulation, and even higher temperatures, and more current, temp, current, etc. Remembering this, I surgery my previous doubt. According to what I was able to read today, your system should not have problems since the capacity for normal use is oversized, although not so much for the case of a short circuit, which is when the electrode gets stuck. And above all because of the current imbalance, greatly reducing its effect (according to an ST application note) since all the rectifiers share the same heatsink. In practice, I really like your design, that's why I try to imitate you and I wanted to clear my doubts, since I have the opportunity to contemplate your experience and use it as a base. The behavior depends on the type of semiconductor if it is majority or minority carriers, but you have a good point. Thanks for helping.

Thanks..!

Hi! I got it from a spanish website which I bought the fibre too on. It come as a dense liquid which has or should be diluted with water. There was no brand on it unfortunately, only a technical tag.

@@dudemakesstuff thank you

It's called Greensand. I got it from an italian website thru Amazon. It shouldn't be hard to find, especially in USA and UK!

@@dudemakesstuff thx mate!

Grazie mille!