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Yea I'm beginning to think that was well with my current project. The asphalt is just too dull and colorless.

Good question! For a wash, I make sure when I spread the paint there is no pooling, I spread thin enough that there is no visible pooling, I'm applying a layer if that makes sense. However, there will be in a minute or so when gravity kicks in. If it is a single model I just watch it and when I see pooling form I take a dry brush and just tap it there. If there is an assembly line of model, when I finish the one model I go back and look at the previous one to make sure no pooling has developed. One other method for controlling how heavily loaded your brush is just touch it against a paper towel and excess paint/wash will flow out. Also make sure your water is clear and or distilled cause water stains or things in your water will cause a foggy stain effect on your models. Good luck painting!

Thanks! Glad you liked it!

Hey thanks man! Glad to hear it!

Ty! Glad you liked it!

Yea, I never got the opportunity to paint him yet. I have Angron and Magnus. Almost had the Lion but he sold out when I was going to get him. Maybe one day.

Thanks! Glad you liked it and can be inspired from it!

I used an "Anycubit Photon". But I now live in a place where I can't print so I haven't used it in a few years.

Thank you!

Well dang I messed up then.

Thanks! Glad you liked it!

So I got him from ebay and he did not come with any other guys. If there were I'm sad I missed them.

@@joyfulpainting700 He has 6 nurglings in total.

Indeed maybe.

Yea you could totally use it for necromunda. It's the same/similar aesthetic.

Welcome to the hobby! Your question is very vague and there is alot that could be said. But if you are new I'll start from the beginning. 1- Building. Make sure you scrape of the flash/mold line from you model pieces as well as remove the small bits of the sprue that are attached to the model. Also when cutting from the sprue cut of bits of the model that are very small first so they don't get damaged or warped when you remove the whole piece if that makes sense. And finally dry fit each piece to make sure you got it right on how to attach before gluing. 2- Priming. Priming is important for future paints to be able to adhere to the model. I use car primer because that can be used in cold/warm/dry/wet weather. Be careful when priming as the whole model could be ruined. Shake the can alot and hold it upside down a bit and spray till the right color comes out, if not mixed right it will be see through and that is bad. When it is working well hold it like 12" away from the models and spray in bursts till it is fully changed in color. I like to spray 4 times on a model, north, south, east west to get full coverage. Let it dry fully, sometimes overnight. 3- Painting. There is so much to this subject so I will do the simplest advice. Focus on getting solid colors. No paint clumps, smooth colors. Focus on that first. So good luck! Hope some of this made sense!

Hey thanks!

Your welcome! Good luck on your models!

Thanks! Glad you like it!

Thanks! Glad you liked it and welcome to the channel!

Hey if you did your best and learned how to be better then it is a small step to improving your hobby. Well good luck on your next mini!

Yea I ran into the same problem. Although I find that I don't have paints that can fit those details. Looking back the faces could have been made brighter to stand out more.

Yea normies may not notice. I Even know someone who prints their entire army. I can admire it, but for me from an artist point of view I really like GW's aesthetic and style.

@@joyfulpainting700 Oh, yeah they're beautifully detailed. The little maggots pouring from his maw is horrendous, i love it.

Thanks for the offer but that model is long gone from my collection.

Glad it helped! Good Luck on yours!

Hey thanks man! Maybe one day.

Yea some skill is needed for models like these to put together, especially one designed like this. Also it is now $130...

Glad I helped! Chaos Marines are a very tough start due to the amount of detail they have on the most basic of models. Good luck!

Thanks!

Well thanks for the question. This is a problem that comes up often in this hobby. You assemble the model up until it gets in the way of painting. The head you would keep separate and you can keep it on the sprue it comes on and paint it there. Then when done painting you can take it off the sprue and put it on the model. If you have fully assembled the model already and are sure you can't remove the head without damaging the body. Paint the dead first so you can mess up the surrounding area then paint the rest as it will be easier. In the future remember to choose when to assemble first or after you paint. Hope this helps!

@@joyfulpainting700 thanks for the quick reply. And thx for the tip with painting the head First. For the next one i paint it first before assembling it complete.

Thanks! Glad you liked it!

Hey thanks! Glad you liked it. Yea the experts do seem so far out of reach but I hope some of my vids can help people get close.

Almost immediately after applying. Or in some cases I use a hair dryer to get it where it is no longer wet and then wipe.. Never more than an hour. Hope this helps! Also any more painting after the oil step is done the next day at least for drying.

@@joyfulpainting700 ok, that makes sense. I haven't really seen anyone use oil colors like you do, do you have a more traditional fine arts background? Your approach is a little different from what I've seen from people who start painting with minis.

@@Rob-qe3cg I started trying to do the box art from GW when I started minis. But when I returned to the hobby in like 2018, I started with GW stuff but then tried other things, saw what new techniques and tools people were using. Tried them out and since I paint a lot of models. And so from trial and error replicating what I saw I got to this point.

Ok, cool. You definitely edge up on the heavy metal style. I appreciate that you're sticking to more greeny greens and bluey greens, I just can't get down with the turbo yellow skin the newer studio models have. One last question I had for you, is do you never have problems with subassemblies popping off de-laminating the paint? I noticed you don't do anything to remove paint from the bonding areas. Hope you finish up that box one day, be cool to see it all laid out next to the box art itself.

@@Rob-qe3cg Okay I had to look up 3 articles to understand what delamination is. Not fully sure yet. But if referring to issues with the paint not adhering to the model. I prime with car primer, it can work in any temperature and humidity. As for working with oils, the oil paints do make the surfaces hard to adhere to for acrylic paints after the layer of oil. So I wait a day or so for paint to be able to easily get on. Also a hairdryer on heat mode really helps since oils dry faster under hot air. Use when it is visibly dry, the oil paint still has to cure. I hope this helps, if you have anymore questions just ask. And as for as that box set goes, I sold everything else I painted. Only the warboss on trike and the grots are still in my possession cause no one wanted them. The 20 boyz I still have unpainted.

Hey thanks! Glad you really enjoyed my work and I am happy it helps. I will return to nurgle one day, I still have many models to do.

@@joyfulpainting700 haha I could imagine you’d have a massive backlog, can’t wait to see your next video in my feed :)

Welcome back into the hobby! Glad you liked the video and that it could help.

Wonderful! Glad the vid can help!

Alright I will remember that for the next time I do decals. Thanks!