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And the washers

I can't believe it has already been 7 years since I rebuilt that. Recently I have been using this excavator a lot, and it still works great! Washers from ebay: OILITE TT2001-B 1" ID x 2" OD x 3/16" Oil-Impregnated Bronze Thrust Washer Pkg/10 Was there another washer you were also asking about?

Bearings were also from ebay: INA NCS-1616 Needle Roller Bearing 1.5"OD 1"ID 1"W. I think I cross referenced that from the Terex part # 1217-250

ST-901: This is the original GSM/GPRS version that operates on 2G /3G networks. ST-901L: This version supports both 2G/3G and 4G LTE networks.

I drew up a top and bottom plate and sprocket in solidworks and then had the steel water jet cut at Custom Cut machine. I cut some spacers out of some scrap tube I had and welded it together. Where are you located? I’m guessing you’re referencing the carrier I built in this video? th-cam.com/video/ga6tL5pCQko/w-d-xo.htmlfeature=shared There’s a comment in that video where I linked to a google drive folder containing the drawings that someone with a water jet table could use to cut the parts.

I haven’t taken it apart yet to see what the issue is. Someone has a TH-cam video of them taking the battery out of the handle bar, which seemed somewhat straight forward. I’m not sure if a control board or battery is the issue at this point. I’ll post the email that their customer support sent me.

On Aug 25, 2023, at 9:01 AM, Support <support@licus.com> wrote:  Hello, Please provide requested information below and we will contact you regarding next course of action to resolve the issues you are having with your unit. The model and serial number can be found on the bottom of your unit. Reply to this e-mail and fill out the information below. Full Name: Shipping Address: Phone #: Model: Serial Number: Defect: Provide video of flashing lights. The unit is outside of the one year warranty period. We can still provide service but the costs will be out of pocket. Or we can sell you parts. There is a $70 Service Fee to have the unit evaluated to determine what parts need to be replaced. We will contact you with the cost of the parts before proceeding with the repair. You will need to ship the unit to the service facility and provide a return label to ship the unit back to you. Please write the RMA # on the box. Ship to address: Customer Support Attn: Shipping & Receiving 6880 Commerce Blvd. Canton, MI 48187 (734) 437-9086 We do not have a 3rd party website (i.e. PayPal) available to process credit card payments. We use Card Connect to securely process payments which will generate an email receipt to you. Please contact us at 734-365-7914 to provide the necessary credit card information. Credit card number Expiration date CVV security code Mobility Service Support Agent 4 1.734.365.7914 M-F 9am-5pm EST support@licus.com

They mentioned that I could try updating the firmware, but the model I have doesn’t seem to have Bluetooth. On Aug 28, 2023, at 1:28 PM, Support <support@licus.com> wrote:  Hello, If unit does not have bluetooth options, the inner battery or control board will need to be replaced. Control Board- $78 Battery-$105 Shipping-$15 You can purchase parts to have repaired locally or ship for repair. Mobility Service Support Agent 4 1.734.365.7914 M-F 9am-5pm EST support@licus.com

Yes! My best guess at the time was that one or more injectors were leaking. I bought a set of injectors with around 70,000mi from someone on ebay. I put them in and it hasn't smoked since, which has been three years now! I recall reading that injectors are supposed to be calibrated or something, but I never did that. The injection quantity deviation values for the four cylinders are very close, and the fuel economy is around 35+MPG with mostly city driving. Unfortunately I don't believe that the injectors for the BRM engine are re-buildable, and you cannot change the tips like you can on the ALH engine, so one suggestion might be to find a set of low cost/low mileage used injectors as they are easy to put in. However, the issue could be caused by something else.

@@hlukeh Thanks for the quick reply. On my Jetta 1.9 tdi, code marks BKC, it smokes when the engine is started, for the first time. You also have a video on my channel, you can watch it. The smoke smells like diesel. I suspect the valve seals

@@Habanera1977 I watched your video, and the amount of smoke could almost be considered normal for the vehicle, if that's all it ever produces. It does look grey, indicating unburnt diesel vs oil, so the issue could be a leaky injector, but I can't say for sure.

@@hlukeh Thanks a lot

I'm not sure if this link will work or not, but they are here: drive.google.com/file/d/1NdcrFirNEXjN7rXmKCIJgaEBQaeQ1y6n/view

I’m curious if you ended up making a new part?

Same thing happened to me with a u-joint but it went into the meat of my hand, never had a wound squirt before lol

I agree! I tried but couldn’t find any that were the right size :/

Yes it is normal

I started the 1.8TDCI Ford engine with a temperature of 4 ° C and a flat battery: I waited for the glow plugs to warm up, then the engine start was exuberant!

@@easyskibike4966 thank you very much for the translation!

Thanks for the suggestion! I replaced the injectors with a set of used ones and now there's no more grey smoke. The hiccup has also gone away, so I think those original injectors with 360,000km were just worn. It could also have been the MAF as you suggested as the ECU could have been over fueling when starting it, but I had tested with another MAF from another car and it was still smoking when starting it up. With the new injectors the smoke is now gone!

So far - yes! Here's part 2: th-cam.com/video/yTpwWBZ3FoU/w-d-xo.html

Thanks for the suggestion! I replaced the injectors with a set of used ones and now there's no more grey smoke. The hiccup has also gone away, so I think those original injectors with 360,000km were just worn. It could also have been the MAF as you suggested as the ECU could have been over fueling when starting it, but I had tested with another MAF from another car and it was still smoking when starting it up. With the new injectors the smoke is now gone!

@@hlukeh never simple, glad you sorted it out buddy

@@hlukeh when it picked up rpms that is ot trying to clean the dpf it is a rejuvenation process

Hey, thanks for the suggestion! I started with a box of Lincoln E7018AC rods, and they did work pretty well. I was looking at another old 250A AC welder, and I noticed that it said on the front to use 7018 rods on the low output. I just checked, and the low output on this welder has a much higher open circuit voltage of 80V AC vs 50V AC for the high output. I had been using the welder on the high connection because I figured it was better as it could put out more current. That's bad thinking because after connecting to the low output, all the rods I have work! They don't stick and are much easier to weld with! The cheap Vulcan E7018 Harbor Freight rods work, and the Blueshield E7018 rods I have work! I was having trouble with both those rods previously. I've got the sprocket all built up and the track back on, and it has been working great! I built a road cutting up across the hill so we have better access to our lower field, and the track is no longer jumping, and the teeth have worn nicely with the bushings!

@@hlukeh Yep, you got it figured out right, The the lower OCV makes STANDARD 7018 hard to or impossible to strike an arc. Also the Arc voltage [when the arc is going] is 25v on small AC's [150-235 amp] 30v on med AC's [250-300 amp] and on large industrial AC's [300-600amp]t is 40v. The Arc volts keep the arc going without snuffing out.

Good call! I should have read the instructions and tested out the unit first before making the video. Sorry about that. Isn't the video more genuine though the way it is though?! I now know that immediately after connecting the relay module, I should have held the force start button for 3s to enable the relay for a minute since there’s no battery for it to detect. The manual actually doesn’t seem to mention the mode it was in where for a minute or so the relay clicks on and off, and it will start the engine until the relay module times out.

@@hlukeh I ended up buying the same jump starter as you did. Started my truck on a completely dead battery. Thanks for your video!

Omg what fool doesn't read instructions