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Glad to hear that it's helpful for someone. Interesting, what forum it was mentioned in?

This tutorial was indeed made before the cheaper can bridges with less features were available. This is for the older more expensive can-bridge. If what okinawajapan1 said is true and you are installing one that looks different than what I have here then make sure to check the differences with this guide in all aspects.

This pack is long sold, but the benefit was to restore it's general state. The pack was at around 75% but because of the weak cells - it made everything suffer in cold and when used at higher speeds. The weak cells voltage sagged down and then battery controller decided that too much of the back is below norms and stopped working. So the benefit was, that it was back to usable 75% or a little more.

Estonia is too little place for any good advice in that regard. You might be hunting for very long time along with others who try to get it locally. If you want to find it yourself then you better expand your search to latvia-lithuania-norway. Or if you value your time more then go to facebook and look for estonian ev group and contacts for local guy Kaljo who has batteries in Tallinn and can sell you one. He has contacts and gets them from nearby countries.

@@gelisob Thank you! It's very valuable information for me!

okay. Did you just wanted us to know about what you did or did you have some question in mind too?

@@gelisob I just wanted to know if you had any issue whatsoever with your old battery pack and the Canbridge.

I would also recommend taking screenshots of the leafspy screen when under highspeed driving there's very visible ditch in the cell voltage columns and big number in the corner of min-max cell voltage difference. And do not say you took them but that "you let expert check and here's proof of some very shot cell modules in the battery" - and say you got shown how big the voltage difference is. And that is way above normal. I think the service manual test procedure is to put AC/heat on to full blast windows open, fullbeams on and let it run, and the difference should not be more than 40mv.

@@gelisob I did, but the Nissan dealership doesn't take any Leafspy screenshot seriously. So I'm going be dropping the car of with 15% Leafspy SoC, maybe even a little lower. And before doing, I will also do some more aggressive driving. As during my testing, I had the voltage difference rise up to 612mV before Turtle Mode kicked in. And I was at 12.4% Leafspy SoC when that happened. I reached during aggressive driving aka highway speeds, going full throttle. It showed at 20% already more than 100mV difference, but that was while using full throttle. I recorded the graph from Leafspy actually, so that I could see it afterwards. But I think, when I drop the car while Leafspy already showed the heat damage aka weak cells. Then Nissan battery test, should show it as well. I have heard, the outcome is very similar to Leafspy. www.speakev.com/threads/finding-out-the-real-usable-capacity-aka-weak-cells.179769/unread

maybe it's a language barrier thing but by what you wrote, it does not seem like you understand the complexity of the situation you are describing. If you are planning to take 24kwh leaf battery and swap out cells inside it, you are still having 24kwh bms talking to the car. I can not give advice or guidance how to reprogram nissan leaf BMS. I have not heard this to be done at all. Please do not set yourself or your family or your house in fire. Making a safe battery internals that can withstand thousands of kilometers of shaking and bumping, is not a trivial thing. All the Leaf fires i've heard about have been caused by people tinkering with their battery and trying to change it.

check the video description, there's link to dalasevrepair site, he can sell you :)

sure, sorry for the late reply, check the estonian EV facebook group and search up where they talk about Kaljo and leaf batteries.

Hey Neil. Sourcing batteries from china is always a very risky and complicated endeavor. I do not know what batteries you are talking about but most sellers are selling cells that are for some valid reason discarded from official use. That can be fine for some offgrid home battery projects but with vehicles it gets dicey fast. I do not know where you are situated but I would recommend putting your time and effort into something that gives you extra money and find local or nearby sellers that will sell you 30/40/62kwh leaf battery that has not been used much. Dala bridge stuff is indeed open source but do think long and hard about how much time you must sink into it to get usable results out and with what cost. Might be easier to just go pay Dala the 150 and have working thing to move on with. But if it's a side project and not your essential vehicle then sure, research long and hard the chinese battery seller and dont buy from someone you cant find history and forum threads about :)

Hello sir, I was just by chance messing around in my car righthand side for some other mod. I tried looking into it but then realized that there are so much other wiring. I do not see how this could remain the same when whole steering system is brought over to the other side. Are you sure they did not just mirror/flip it and you have same connector brought with, to the right side?

@@gelisob nope. I ended up using an unpopulated fuse terminal and put a blade connector in with another fuse in series. Thanks for the reply.

Hello

Thanks. Connectors can be a point of failure so be careful to choose ones that can not come loose over time with vibrations.

do it :) But be aware, that you will most likely need to get a can-bridge to pair it to your car. Also If your car does not have foot-actuated hand-brake then there's some body work with the battery brackets too.

@@gelisob yes ive spoke with dala and yes its a 🦶 brake 😂

for buying contact dalasevrepair.fi/

I have had no reason to look into it after that but i was informed, that this feature works for very limited set of car+battery configurations at the time. I got lucky. I was told that 40kwh packs were not able to be paired like this. If this has not changed, you should take into account that you will need a can bridge for pairing the battery to the car.

@@gelisob since the 30 kwh Leaf pack has the same wiring I 'm thinking there is big chance that it will work!

The can bridge it will add another 500Euro to the total cost,so it worths trying

th-cam.com/video/F2xOISzUCxg/w-d-xo.htmlsi=LWi1B8iJmO42lKEu

Good point; there is one TH-cam video where a guy in Florida used two furniture dollys, which looks like a low-cost option. ☮️

it was through the beta testing. I'm not up to date how they currently handle all that or is it now even more automated into public version.

but beware, it only works on certain combination of car year and battery capacity, not all.

@@gelisob my car is 2013 Nissan Leaf with foot well parking brake. It has the early lizard pack. Hard to find battery swap in North America, is there a lot of 30/40kwh packs over in europe

@@evliving5495 try checking out vendors listed on this webpage map: nissanleafbatteryreplacement.com/

Average person probably does not drive 300 000km in few years, so, that kind of maintenance is not needed then either :) And this is the worst EV, other EV's have battery cooling solutions that prevent such uneven heating to happen.

Modern EVs have battery cooling / heating functions to manage temperature and maximise battery life / performance. No longer an issue, unless you want to buy super-cheap, used, semi-broken EVs to repair!

This is also like changing ICE engine