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everything is on the Armoloq site except directions, even just simple directions. I can't even find a video of someone installing the Armoloq on a radio. I have a new FTM-500DR and I am playing guessing games with all the screws and positioning of brackets. If directions are out there and I missed them, my apologies, but if someone can share a link if the exist, it would be appreciated.

Did it work?

Chuck, put a tarp over them bikes overnight, the be getting cold.🤓🤓🤓

Another awesome video Chuck! This is the first I heard of this type of antenna. The footprint is great for my backyard. Thank you for sharing. 73

I just purchases one...

I got mine and love it. Well worth the cost. I get compliments on it every time I have it out

Nice video Chuck. Thank you for sharing! 73

Thanks for the sweep / swr. Ya get so tired of op say it works great on 20 and 40 meters . Just because you have a tuner in line means nothing. As a QRP operator low ERP means very little if condition are right. Does a nice job on 10/11

6 to 8 day's, if your fridge pulls 60 Watts max in real life @45f...

Great video Chuck. You have a very nice setup.

The unneeded music track obscure your voice.!

Give us link to buy the antenna(s)?

Nice trailer. Looks like Fouts Spring

That's a nice setup. Great for a weekend adventure

I have been thinking of buying a cargo trailer and converting it into an RV. All I need is a comfortable bed, a fridge, and a way to cook. Obviously the trailer would need AC & Heat but I think overall I would end up with a better unit than I can buy for the same number of dollars. Managing to put a small shack is icing on the cake.

I was fortunate enough to get a personal tour of the toy hauler, Chuck has created a very practical unit.

I am in the process of building a trailer for the same use awesome timing

Looks like a T38 Talon Trainer.. Great Video . Definitely some good ideas ..

Chuck, look into FRP panels for your walls that comes in white sheets and is water /mold resistant you can 4' X10' sheet for ~$80 a sheet

Thanks.

Honda for the win!

Good Morning Fire Chief! Hope you enjoying your Weekend out there. Tnx for the great Video. 73 de Uncle Günter, the Rhine River Maniac 💯👍🙋‍♂

Chuck! You and your trailer were my inspiration. Great video. I'm still stealing ideas, lol. See you out there. 73 de Bill

as of 2025 they are now $$75.99 on Amazon I was thinking about getting one of these batteries to hook up to my jet ski for a power source to run a 400 w amp and Bluetooth receiver

This should work on the truSDX, right?

5 grand is hilarious a super clean built 85 on the west coast 30k or more :(

You make great videos and are easily understood. I’m thinking of installing this on the roof. Did you see or hear anything about needing the antenna closer to the ground for some type of ground wave/radials? Thanks, KD0BRE Mark

That's an awesome presentation. I wanted Pure Signal, but didn't really need the other I/O board functions at this time. Now I know how to get it done. Thanks for a great demonstration. 73!

Why not use fishing rods and aluminum tape on the rods. Will be much lighter.😅

Great video! I have a unique "use case scenario" Any idea what kind of wire is least delicious to squirrels, ha!😂. Those little buggers Chow down on all the wires outside

As a GenX from the UK the ‘dangerous’ part about my education is that I’m old enough to have lived around (& remember) imperial measurements from my dear old builder dad but also young enough to have been indoctrinated into post 1970’s metrification at school. A very dangerous set of skills :-) So, at the risk of teaching anyone in particular how to suck eggs, or for those just keen to turn imperial measurements into metric down to the nearest 1/16” (specifically into mm) either now or in the future, here’s how it goes. * Smallest increment mentioned is 1/16” * 1 ‘whole inch’ therefore being 16 of those ‘16ths’ * To convert inches into mm just multiply the whole given measurement by 25.4 * To include any fraction part as a decimal for your calculator, the ‘bit’ to add goes as follows: (just lose the leading zero): 1/16 ‎ = 0.0625 2/16 ‎ = 0.125 (or more commonly 1/8) 3/16 ‎ = 0.188 4/16 ‎ = 0.25 (or more commonly 1/4) 5/16 ‎ = 0.313 6/16 ‎ = 0.375 (or more commonly 3/8) 7/16 ‎ = 0.438 8/16 ‎ = 0.5 (or more commonly 1/2) 9/16‎ = 0.563 10/16 ‎ = 0.625 (or more commonly 5/8) 11/16 ‎ = 0.688 12/16‎ = 0.75 (or more commonly 3/4) 13/16‎ = 0.813 14/16 ‎ = 0.875 (or more commonly 7/8) 15/16 ‎ = 0.938 16/16 ‎ = 1 So, where the poster says 134 5/8” that’s just..... 134 (whole) & 5/8 (fraction) then multiply by 25.4 to convert the total to mm. So, 134 5/8 = 134.625 x 25.4 = 3419.475mm Long-winded I know but hopefully helpful to some. Alternatively just type the inches measurement (as given) into google and ask it to convert to mm. But anyway, for those that can't do that, I got: 1. From Base to top of Section 3: 134 5/8" (134.625 x 25.4 = 3419.47mm) 2. From Top of Section 3 to bottom of section 4: 1" (1 x 25.4 = 25.4mm) 3. For Section 5 (short piece): Full section plus margins of: 1/16" (.0625 x 25.4 = 1.587mm) bottom + 1/8" (.125 x 25.4 = 3.175mm) top or 3/16" (.188 x 25.4 = 4.76mm) total with no overall length given / needed) 4. For Section 7: Top of section 6 to start of section 7: ½” (.5 x 25.4 = 12.7mm) then total for section 7 (measured coil to coil): 12 5/8” (12.625 x 25.4 = 320.675mm) 5. Then from bottom of section 8 to tip: 90 ¾ (90.75 x 25.4 = 2305.05mm) TOTAL 6. For Section 9 (from taper, though not shown in video): 45 1/8” (45.125 x 25.4 = 1146.17mm) 7. For section 10 (top section from top of 9 to tip): 26 1/4” (26.25 x 25.4 = 666.75mm) Feel free to copy / paste / screenshot / save fir future reference. Note, the above is notwithstanding the possible difference that @debbie62140 mentioned further down.

I can't be the only person hearing the RFI caused by his soldering iron😂

I did a similar build but used brass rods that can be soldered on.

What gauge is the wire that is being used to wind the Toroid? I got it done, but it has some strange bends in it that I tried to straighten out but I want to rewind it after I order some more copper wire. I am a virgin Toroid winder. Lol Great video, I just screwed up.

This is KF4GBR I would like information on the antenna how much for you to print the parts and shipping

Great job, as always, Chuck. That antenna would be a ton of fun during one of the VHF contests! The ERP with 10dB gain turns 10W from an Icom 705 into 100W (not accounting for any loss). You are so right about the "ease" of getting gain on higher bands with shorter wavelengths--you don't need as much length and the antennas can even be portable.

Neat work on the 3D printing, Chuck. I need to get one of those soon. Looked at a couple models at GigaParts when I was in Huntsville, but really don't know enough about them to make a good buying decision. We are working on a portable design (rapid assembly/disassembly) that shares a couple of features similar to what you have developed, but it will take some modeling to get the mechanicals done the way we want for production. Interesting, as it appears your D1 and D2 are larger than your DE, which isn't typical. Maybe an illusion on my monitor, but those are usually some percentage smaller than the driven with D1 being the largest director and D2, D3, etc. being slightly smaller. Often, D2, D3, D4 and so on can be the same size with good results. An oversized D1 (or any director that is larger than the driven element) would likely act more as a reflector, but your field testing will tell the story. Could be that your driven element is also slightly off in spacing, which will have an effect on feed point impedance and tuning. When modeled, the DE is typically much closer to the reflector than D1 in mono-band designs. Yours looks centered, or slightly forward of center between REF and D1. Perhaps your BNC connector is accounting for some of the electrical length, which is very sensitive at these higher frequencies and might cause one to trim the driven element wire to compensate. A combination of wire length, spacing and termination can contribute to erroneous readings and degraded performance, even if SWR looks good. It's often best to split the coax to make the feed point termination, keeping center and shield as short as possible (especially on UHF), then adding your connector further down the line. In other words, a pigtail with short split leads at the driven element feed point and your connector of choice at the other end still provides a nice quick disconnect, but helps to eliminate undesirable electrical characteristics at the driven element. Not my intention to be critical, but rather some food for though since you've obviously put some effort and time into your interesting design. Cool video, and nice work on the homebrew quad design. 73, Mark - K5YAC

Hello Chuck I love that antenna you built looks very nice thanks for sharing 73 from KD7KYB KEVIN in Billings ,Mt

Question about your dimensions. I followed your measurements and mounted it atop a 10 ft. pole. The results are that I must use a tuner on all bands and have high Q. Without a tuner I'm above 3:1 SWR on all bands. That's not right. Any suggestions? Thanks. KA6USA

This is so misleading, the efficiency is not being tested here at all. The one which your radio will tune easily on all bands is probably the WORST ONE! You are propagating the lie that the matching transformer that presents the best SWR is the most efficient. If the only goal is to have one that your radio will tune easier, then get the worst one like the one used in Chameleon, Alpha antennas, CHA verticals, etc. They will attenuate the reflected power your SWR radio is measuring so much that SWR will be low even if you do not attach the antenna to it. 73 Danny E73M aka N4EXA

When and where will you post the .stl files? I love building antennas, not just for ham radio but weather satellite reception and SDR listening. I would love to build this and try some 70cm SSB on my 991a! Thanks and 73. KG9PN

After looking at several competing radios, including ICOM and Yaesu products, I purchased the FT-710 AESS. Though I've had it only a few days, I can say it is a solid rig. I'm limited to 10m for phone (Technician) but I've had contacts 57 to 59 received from 3-4000miles away. It is a beast of a radio and I highly recommend. Thanks for the content, very helpful.

You do realise you say at the beginning of your vid (3seconds in) you said "build a dipole for 20mtrs" ?

You said you are getting new printer ive been looking at the flashforge 5 pro just curious as i use mine to build antenna accessories thanks i enjoy your antenna builds

Great build Chuck, you really are The Master Antenna builder. 73 de 2E0TWD

Could this video be more out of order? Its like yoda building

15 db is a bit of a stretch. With all that hardware, polarized, stranded wire,. I'd say 6 db on a good day. A good chance you're confused by the noise-floor. Whats the Front to Back, side lobes, off axis rejection, etc.

Nice quad Chuck! Try a quad for VHF, it will be great to see the performance in FT8/SSB 73 from Costa Rica TI3GB-Greg

Cool build!

Would you consider selling the 3D printed parts for us non-3D printers?