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Thanks for the vid.

gen1 Tundra problem & solution: poor engagement of rear drums, so large travel of brake pedal & excessive load on front brakes.... ... "First Generation Tundra Brake Problems Solved" Lift the rear end and put the truck in neutral- be careful to chock your front wheels. Remove the rubber access hole to the adjuster inside the drum. Turn the wheel by hand as you tighten adjuster until it drags and stops the wheel from spinning freely. It should drag a bit but not feel seized. Adjuster (in drum) rotates away from vehicle to push shoes out (reverse thread on receptacle for it). Now adjust the bell cranks and emergency brake cable tension for 6-8 clicks on its pedal. I noticed that if the inner adjuster is not tight enough the bell crank adjustment will be off. Tightening the inner drum adjuster will change where the bell crank engages. th-cam.com/video/ejpP_Ldq0QI/w-d-xo.html www.tundras.com/threads/2006-tundra-e-brake-slack.49687/

Perfect. Thanks. This was very helpful.

I have 2007 drum look different

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🔥🔥

Nice great how to, thanks man.

Ready to wheel!! This Tundra fucks!

Appreciate ya brother👍

Toyota stout! These trucks are so cool. I just picked one up a couple months ago that should probably be a parts rig. It's rough. I'm going to turn it into a 4 wheel drive. If I had a nice one like yours I'd put it on air bags. I like the rat rod look. Looking forward to more videos!

Welcome to the family! Let us know if you have any questions.

Hellz yeah! Looking forward to this build 🔥🔥

What bumper is that? Looks great

Got mine done thanks to you! Man those clips suck haha

How did you get that grill and lights on your 97? I thought that was a 96 grill and lights? I really want to find a way to get the same type of grill and lights on my 97

Hey thank you so much man I have a 2002 Toyota tundra SR5 how long you're right there are a lot of videos about replacing the front door or the passenger door but not so many about the access cab. You're video was exactly what I was needing. So I just wanted to shoot you some thanks, I appreciate ya. Stefan M

Time for some tons

hi, thanks for the video. hows the dorman so far? is it a good quality? im about to put dorman on mine.

be sure to use a wire wheel to clean up the wheel hub, and throw a little lubricant on it to keep the rim from adhering to it.

Use soapy water to clean off the drums, not brake cleaner, it'll keep the brake dust down so you're not breathing it in. then come back with brake parts cleaner.

How come nobody uses that electrode stuff on these?

Glad you got it fixed perrito! Now let's go wheel!

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Were the axles you removed OEM? One year later how have the NAPA axles held up? How many miles on the originals?

my new part came with the clip on upside down, took me a while to figure that out, i thought i had the wrong part.

I was puzzled why this wasn't the same as the front. I haven't broke the clip yet like you did, but maybe I need to try harder. It is a bugger to get the faceplate off without breaking those clips I suspect. Thanks.

I'm pretty sure I just watched the video you mention right before this. Bro took like 15-20 mins. I'm getting ready to do this myself 286k miles on my Tundra. This gave me even more confidence to do it myself. I like the Foot Wrench hahah Thanks man!

my 98 tacoma had a spring fall out when it broke? hmmmm i see no spring here?

I just did mine on my 1st gen Tacoma. I followed the video from @funjunkiegarage also. He was the only guy that had a video of someone doing this without pulling the entire drive shaft off the truck. Mine went nearly as smooth as yours did. I had some problems getting the two drive shaft sections lined back up. My truck was on a driveway with a slight incline. I put wheel chocks behind all 4 wheels but when I split the drive shaft it appears the truck settled back a little against the chocks. I had to get my foot on the front frame crossmember and push the truck forward while lining up the drive shaft and wrestling the bolts back into the driveshaft. Took a while but I got it. My stake nut was not staked either. And the drive shaft bolts were real tight on mine like yours. The torque spec for those is 54 ft.lb. but you can't get a torque wrench on them so I think people just tighten them way too tight. Also, the torque spec for the big stake nut is a 2-step process. You torque it to 134 ft. lb., then back it off and torque it again to only 51 ft.lb. The bearing is not pressed on but the 134 ft.lb. torque sets the bearing. Congrats on getting yours done! It really isn't that hard of a job. Other generations of Tacomas and Tundras have a different design where you have to disassemble the double cardan joint. That's a pain in the ass that I'm not sure I'd attempt.

Love this man. Got me rethinking what I should do with my build

Awesome truck! No limit straps?

What indicators did you have showing you it was bad?

Good job perrito!

Dude!!! Thank you so much for the mention. Your video was great. I'm a new subscriber. I wish you all the best of success. I'm always happy to hear my videos inspire and motivate. Thank you again for the awesome support of my channel. Have a great day!

Hey man Someone told me that 37 is too much for the tundra rear axel. Did you have any trouble?

High and low compression is the most appropriate number for the street?

She looks hella clean sick!!! Nice work

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Hello How are the Toyota rear hubs and bearings holding up with the 37s?

Glad you talked about the tire and rim weight with bead locks. You can always run like 2 or 3 wraps of ducktape on the outter bead i heard that can work like bead locks or get bead grip wheels both way lighter than beadlocks that use a bunch of bolts snd rings

love the wheel set up what are those rims ur running they complete ur build i think

Your truck did fkn great at Big Bear with the new wheel and tire combo! Next test is Sand Hollow 🤘

Pretty sick… 1. what offset do you need for the right wheel to stop using spacers? 2. were you concerned running load “d” instead of most used “e” for durability purposes?

How did you reinforce rear fenders after cutting?

What did u re-gear to?

I have referenced this video plenty of times now trying to do my brake job, The one thing that kind of perplexes me is your adjuster lever seems to be on backwards as both sides of mine were on the opposite shoe on the back side. It seems like there's a spot for an extra lever on the side that your lever appears to be positioned on. Which one is right? I still don't know if anyone else knows. Please comment below.

How much lift in the rear?

whats ghetto about magnets? ur silly bro. nice truck.

I see you are on 35"s.... Man, that is a whole huge step up to do it right. About $7k for the lower front control arms. The wheels and tires, The brakes if you want to do it right. Regearing.

I did a 3 1/2" lift on my 04 first Gen with Bilstein 6112's and Camburg High lift upper control arms. Running 33"s on 16"s. (More tire is better than more rim). They tuck inside the front fender well. Stock, lower, OEM control arms. Replaced with new OEM bushings/lower ball joint. The geometry is still like stock. I just did two 4 plus hour, 70 MPH road trips to get to the trails.