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Hey got a question I'm working on a pr3000 , I had a lift linkage wear out bar tension arm . What's the best way to get that arm out lol

What’s the name of the tool from harbor freight

Drill a hole in dust cap ????? Buy the right tools to do the job …..

LOL the outro music got people looking over this way like WTF. I'm training, bro!

You have a link for that small jack?

I work for Crown, it's actually an issue with the access module, it's a stupid design.. but long story short it's cheaper to repair it the way you did instead of replacing the access module that costs thousands, most people will never be able to diagnose it because it's so strange and usually no diagnostic steps will lead you in that direction.

Oh man. Why not use a carbon arc like most of us who do cable replacement? With the carbon rod you can get down in there and make sure you're melting both the post and the new connector. Care needs to be taken to not let the molten lead flow out the bottom but with practice that isn't a problem. Also, the drill cleans the sides of the post you created but it leaves the top crusty. A few passes with a rasp or a file will clean that up so you don't have that crap messing up the job. The gloppy terminal the battery shop did may look bad but the connection is most likely rock solid. Your terminal top looks great but you can't be sure you don't have cold joint in there. You can make the final product look good with a carbon arc too but what matters is the connection between the post and the terminal. Just check out these guys: th-cam.com/video/aWD3wOKZvgU/w-d-xo.html . They used a bigger carbon than I prefer but the video shows the proper way to do the job.

I really like this video. Our company is in Illinois. I hope we can correspond/ maybe pick your brain. Thanks for making this

Hey I’m really enjoying your videos. I’m trying to find some information on lift chain adjustment. I primarily work on 8 series Toyotas

Hi got a rc5500 with no start up. Display turns on and immediately shows wrench light. Battery meter displays but no code is displayed nor does it give me access to service. Push arrows any direction gives me nothing on display so I have no code to work with. Unit has info link which I bypassed. I've checked all fuaes and swapped relays at distribution board. I have also swap the display module getting same issues. I'm leaning towards a software issue but don't have a laptop with firmware so wanted to get any advice before I gotta place a service call. Thanks for any help.

How can I order the drill bit, is there a part number, thank you

I have a crown pallet truck 4500 Series series Do you know the password to access The display

You just made my life easier! Thank you!

Solo una correccion al procedimiento ya que el manual indica que se debe de apretar a un torque inicial de 170 N M y girar por lo menos tres vueltas en ambas direcciones, luego aflojar la tuerca y reapretar a 34 N M. aqui una copia del manual: 10. Torque the special nut (12) to 170 N m (125 ft lb) while rotating or oscillating the wheels a minimum of three turns in each direction. 11. Loosen the special nut (12) until it is free. 12. Torque the special nut (12) to 34 N m (25 ft lb). If the slot in the nut and cross hole in the axle are not aligned, further tighten the special nut until the next slot and cross hole are aligned. 13. Insert the cotter pin (11) and bend the ends to secure the cotter pin. Saludos

Can you do a video on brakes on a RC 5500

You forgot the other bearing on the shaft.

Where can I get that rethread it ?

Hey man I just fix that battery for bad burns , I replaced the cables , heads up you should always burn down that post and then add lead

Lowering the free lift cylinder while blocking the carriage is a great idea I wished I thought of when I did this job. I tied a ratchet strap to the end of the hoses to stretch them out to connect the last fittings 😂

Is there a part number for the tire and hub already pressed on? and where did you get your part from?

Great job! Where can I fine a bus bar for my battery, I can’t find them anywhere Thanks

Question: where can i get the bus bar that goes from post to post ? then when i solder them dose it have to be a lead free bar? Thanks a million Greg

great job

I appreciate the video. Way more grease than you need. I will try jacking up the truck a little higher to get the roll pin side pivot plate in. I have been trying to line them up with the jack. Your way seems easier. What @stephenshook says is what I do.

makes me thankful that i have a lift for our trucks and don't have to lay on the ground

What type of drilling bit are you using?

We would.never get away with losing all that oil on the floor here in the UK, the environment agency would hang us for that

Love your videos man! Correct me if I'm wrong, but this should roughly be a similar procedure for an SC5200, no?

Salam

What song did you use for this video?

I find it easier for removing the c-clips for the tilt cylinders and popping them off the mast. I scrap a few of these units a month sadly lol

Can you add the tools you used to get the wheel out, i saw you using a socket but couldn’t see the size

Try doing this next time and see if it is faster. Put all the spacers back on the wheels except the very outer ones and drop the load wheels in the outrigger. Then put the both axles halfway through the pivot plate on the inside and add the outside washers for that side, then get them started in the wheels and then push the pivot plate into place. Add the last 2 washers and line up your roll pin holes and then put on the last pivot plate then roll pins and done. Don't need all that grease to hold the washers in place. Or you could just order the wheels with shoulders already there.

hello does the center wheel have to be press in

Can you give an overview of the analyzer troubleshooting software etc

Miss working on these units, easy money.

Can you explain more on why you chain the free lift cylinder?

Great video, step by step! Any idea where online I can order load wheels for a RR5210-35? Looking for complete with bearings.

Ac for 4ye

Try using hose caps or a drain pain to catch that oil. Safety first, chains and blocks! What would have been appreciated is explaining why you are replacing these hoses 1 year later. Whether it was a operator error or a improper install. Other than that, great video! Our community needs more of these. - Crown Tech

Do you not reset the articulation after fitting a new drive tyre?

Were can I find a post drill socket like that boss ?

All the gear and no idea

Fed up watching u. Use a shorter punch u tube

If I loosened a nut with a hammer and punch as an apprentice I would have got a kick in the ass. Amateur

If you had oiled the seals before assembling it would have been easier. Also why did you not change the seal at the rear end of the nut. Or was that too difficult

Also easier access to the chain pin at the top end of the free lift cylinder.

A lot easier and safer leaving the attachment on. Instead of balancing the carriage on axle stands

Not a good idea to use burning gear to a lift chain. Also next to a battery.

Why use a 1/2 ratchet that you need to put your foot no and it flies off when a 3/4 would be a lot easier and safer.