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Not sure what you're referring to. Can you provide a link?

It's a standard bleed procedure under normal conditions. However, if you'd like to bleed the old fluid out of the pump (a good idea) and/or have air inside the pump, you'll need to cycle the pump. There are only two ways to do this: with the Yamaha scan tool or by activating the ABS. Of course, if you're riding the bike to activate the ABS, you can't bleed at the same time and it's a very time-consuming and iterative process to exchange all the fluid. Given the high cost of the scan tool, we recommend that owners have their dealer do a periodic ABS flush. Doesn't have to be during the annual or bi-annual fluid flush, but it's a good idea to do it every few years because, as you likely know, brake fluid is hygroscopic (absorbs water) and fluid trapped in the pump will corrode over time rendering the pump useless. We had an old Concours 1400 here a few years ago that needed a new pump because of this exact scenario. Great question...

@@StoltecMoto thank You for help. I’ll try to do brake lines change myself. If i’ll struggle with removing air from system, then I will ask Yamaha for help 🫢

@@webster7606 I don't expect you'll have problems beyond the normal hassles of removing air. Plan to take the bike to Yamaha next winter for the next complete flush and ride on! Good luck...

Believe that’s an electrical issue with wires disconnecting at the angle

Sorted it by turning of the traction control fully 😊

A pre-worn chain will definitely not last as long unless you're really on top of chain cleaning and lubing. Also, this extra link "trick" is best suited to the stock sprockets or a combo that inherently shortens the wheelbase (ex. larger sprockets).

@@StoltecMoto oh man I ordered a new set of sprockets Superlite stock set up 16 43 525 chain 116 links so far I haven’t experienced anything negative hopefully this won’t affect the riding in the long run

@@nycmotoblog913 No risk of damage...just be sure to keep up on chain maintenance to prevent premature wear. Eventually, the axle blocks will reach the rear most setting and y you'll have to either shorten the chain or replace.

@@StoltecMoto thanks for sharing this video the bike feels way better I can tell the difference feels faster lol

It's a blast. Not what you typically think of when you hear "Chinese motorcycle".

Yes, brake levers are adjustable.

I'm 99% sure that the stock spacers are reused with the KKE wheels, but will have to check when I get back in the shop tomorrow. That said, I'd be surprised if the Storm Bee and Ultra Bee use the same diameter axle and fork spacing. But keep us posted!

@@StoltecMoto I did the experiment and the Ultra Bee and Storm Bee front wheels are interchangeable if you use the spaces included with each wheel. Obviously you need to change the disc rotors. I also changed the traction control discs too but I’m not sure if that maintains the traction control.

@@martinfoster5163 That's good to know - thanks for sharing! I'm still surprised the axles are the same diameter, but you learn something new everyday. Ride safe!

Your best bet for this region would be to ensure that the AIS has been removed from the engine and disabled in the software. Next, ensure the fuel cut on decel is disabled, which will also increase the smoothness between the on-off-on throttle transitions. If that still doesn't do the trick for you, you can try manually enrichening the 0% TPS column by about 10%. Combined, these things do the trick.

@@StoltecMoto Alright thanks!! I’m not sure if the cp2 has an AIS, but I’ll try the other steps👌🏻

@@RexMuffin You're right about the R7 not having AIS, my apologies. However, check your intake and exhaust for air leaks. Just like with the AIS, that can introduce popping.

@@StoltecMoto I finally flashed the bike with the ftecu software using the included unrestricted map and the decel pops were almost completely gone so I ended up buying 2wheelDynoworks’s custom tune and flashed the bike once again. My r7 now runs perfectly, I think the issue was that the fuel decel cut was not disabled on the first tune I got from my local shop, but it could also be their mapping that was wrong. Anyways, a big thanks for the help!!

@@RexMuffinglad it worked out in the end. Nothing better than a clean decel!

The ready mode should show when the kill switch is switched to "on". It won't show if that's not the case, or if the side stand is down. If that's not working, there might be a fault elsewhere. The faults will cycle across the screen if you press the M button when the bike turned on.

That's interesting. You get an error even when the switch isn't activated? Ours are removed, but haven't had any errors. The dash lights will flash fast when the turn signal switch is activated, but it goes away when cancelled.

@@StoltecMoto Thank you. I am going to play around a bit, see what I can come up with. I am wondering if disconnecting handlebar turn signal switch cables might help. (I need to find the connection.

@@KNKLHEAD Good luck!

@@StoltecMoto Thanks for the luck! I turned the bike on, hit hazards .. then one turn signal light was flashing.. Hit the turn signals and hazard randomly and voila, no error. I think the computer just had to figure stuff out! Whew!

1. A non-oring chain will definitely help in the mud with chain life, and as you know, is easier to keep maintained. Bonus is that it also has less friction and helps with range. Full disclosure, this bike of ours still has the stock chain on it after the last 500 ish miles. 2. We did the same. left the headlight (and horn). See our other video for weight comparisons. 3. I like a grippy peg, but these don't bother me at all. And they happen to be very durable. Don't ask me how I know. 4. There are a few folks making skid plates. I've been on the fence with buying one or making one of our own. In short, haven't had an issue bottoming out. Because the bike is so light and maneuverable, I've found I can correct line selections that would otherwise bash into rocks. I have dragged the underbelly on logs a few times, for what it's worth... 5. See the opening picture after the first cross country race on this bike. God...mud was EVERY where. But, as you say, with the battery out, was very easy to clean up. I like to lay it over when I wash it...so light and no fuel to spill. 6. Either the seat latch sucks or we're both dufuses. Dufi? 7. Be careful with those stock tires and tubes! Take a look at our 21/18 wheel upgrade video to see why (spoiler: we ended up flatting a couple tubes). 8. Ours came with one, but never used it.

@@StoltecMoto thank you for all! Funny about flipping the bike upside down. I often cleaned and worked on light bee, prefer upside down sometimes! Appreciate all.

How much do you weigh? Have you set the sag? Ditching the stock tires helps because they have relatively short sidewalls that can bottom out easily if the air pressure is too low. On the other end of the spectrum, running high enough pressure to save the tubes and rims will degrade ride quality A LOT. The forks do tweak easily because they are such a small diameter (37 mm). As you probably already know, most modern dirtbikes are running 48 mm sliders (though 43 mm forks are out there). Based solely on our own experiences with our bike, we generally realign them without loosening anything (like a bicycle). Stand over the front wheel, brace with your knees, and twist the bars until you're happy. It's one of the UB's endearing qualities!

I haven't tried that combo yet. How's the life?

@@StoltecMoto : front is tough as nails, the rear is super soft, and has traction in all the wet rocks roots, and logs. But if you spin allot, it disappears quick. The upside, is even with the knobs worn down, it's still soft/grippy, because it's a trials compound, with offroad tread.

@@Trad-Am These might be my next set...either on the Sur Ron or the gasser. Appreciate the recommendation. The IRC rear on the Ultra still has lots of tread, but of course, no hard edges. The front still looks brand new, even after about 50 hrs...

@@StoltecMoto : definitely try the rear 216x gummy. The 216 aa fatty front, might be overkill for the suron, it's wide, and tall, and rolls over everything like it's not there. Works great on the 500, though! Oh, shinko has a cheap 216 front knockoff, of the GT 216 front, I think it even say 216, but it sheds knobs I hear. The real one is hard to hurt!

@@Trad-Am The fatty front sounds good for x-country and enduros on my Husky. Soon as I kill the MX33, this is looking like the hot setup.

You're welcome.

Key ON, press M. Trip distance and top speed will display. Reset by holding S.

it only shows this “AL - 117” is there an other trick how to display the trip distance

@@technischespielereien2227 The AL-117 code means the side stand is down. Flip it up and code disappears.

Unfortunately, FT-ECU doesn’t have an ECU file for that bike so this wouldn’t work for you. However, you might want to check out the Dynojet Power Commander and their Auto Tune. It does similar tuning (albeit with a little less fidelity).

Good luck in your decision making. For the right rider and the right type of riding, the Ultra Bee can be quite the weapon. Glad the video was helpful!

Rear brake lever has a little spring loaded pawl on top. Just click it into position when you squeeze the brake.

On one hand, the 21” front will roll easier over pot holes and the like. On the other hand, it’ll steer a little slower due to the extra gyroscopic effect and will be a little less responsive over bumps due to the extra unsprung mass. It would not be the end of the world, but I’d certainly avoid wearing out good knobbie tires on the pavement…

I'm also 5'9" and found the factory bars to be a little too low. It was possible, especially for moto style riding, but woods left my lower back sore. I'm running the CRF High...both with and without 15 mm bar risers. I go back and forth on whether or not I like those...depends on the type of riding.

Your understanding is correct. However, I would offer that even the stock exhaust and intake can benefit from a few iterations before defaulting to live correction mode. It really helps with smoothness.

@@StoltecMoto You're right it really does. Got my active tune kit today and after a few iterations, wow what a difference

Plug it in, and away you go. No breaker to flip or anything to disconnect. Leave the battery connected via the harnesses.

@@StoltecMoto thank you! And finally, if I choose to disconnect remove the battery to clean it or something I’m supposed to take off the communication cable before the orange one right and the same procedure putting back on?

@@carztohobbiesyou got it. Exactly.

Thanks for the kind words...Glad to hear the vids were useful for you!

My pleasure!

We don't have access to a Storm Bee...but good question and perhaps someone else can chime in.

Actually, you bring up an interesting question. You can adjust the speedo read out to compensate for gearing and tire changes (as you know). Not sure if that will have any affect on the TC performance. We’re snowed in at the moment, but good idea on something to experiment with when the trails are useful again.

Yes and yes.

Thanks for watching

Glad you liked it!

It’s not a direct swap, and I wouldn’t recommend it. The Ultra Bee hubs are beefier for more strength and durability.

Yeah they had some for the lbx 👍🎄merry Christmas

We have a prototype setup that has been working very well. Needs another tweak, but hoping to have something available soon. Trying to wrap up other projects first.

Sick! I'll be keeping my eyes out for it on your website. I. bought your hand guard spacers for when I swapped to my Acerbis hand guards. Small purchase but they did their their thing right. Will it work with Warp9 or other wheel sets or only KKE?@@StoltecMoto

@@StoltecMoto Please keep us updated on the traction control... Could you share a link to the IRC tires you're using? I'm trying to find a setup that allows me to keep the stock sprocket without sacrificing low-end torque. You mentioned that with your current setup, the low-end snap wasn't significantly affected. Thank you in advance!

@@y2k1307 Here you go: ircmoto.com/collections/enduro/products/volcanduro-ve-35f-ve-33

If you can get over the lack of elevation, the Pocono infield circuits are actually a lot of fun. This particular loop includes some of the tri-oval, so that's fun, as well. You get your fill of speed and tight sections.

The international road legal version comes with passenger pegs...see video. It's definitely not set up for typical American adults, however. Seating space and suspension capacity are sized for smaller riders.

Not really. The terrain has the biggest affect on range where we ride. Plus, the tires on this bike maintain the stock diameter (rear) and are on the lighter end of the spectrum. If you start running full size moto tires (i.e. width and load range), the weight jumps up and you'll see a hit for sure.

Oddly, I find the mirrors to be better than what’s on most street bikes these days. In fact, the UB mirrors were installed on my Hypermotard 939.

Right on, thanks man!