วีดีโอ

Incredible resource. Thank you

This is all absolutely fantastic information. Well reasoned, and I appreciate the call to construct your own from a good list of components. Thank you, thumbs up!

Was this your 1st cannabis run? I don't do dwc I grow in 200 gallon coco mix raised bed. My 2nd to last grow I grew out a mother plant it yielded me just a little over 1Kg canopy was 4' X 7'. Few thoughts on your grow, a.c def great idea I love my mini split. Your dehumidifier set to 60 is fine lights on but lights off I bet it got up to lower 80% if any buds touching tent definitely vectors for mold and rot. If you're scrogging train early and often and one thing that solved at least any of my mold issues is defoliation and it keeps RH in check. My bloom area has a box fan on timer and an oscillating fan going day and night. Do you have a hygrometer that records min/max? Def was heartbroken last time I got bud rot (luckily only twice outdoor grows suck) . Glad I found you channel looking forward to more great content.

i downloaded the guide that's above and wanted to follow along with the same grow but I'm gonna grow 2auto flowers in a tower garden flex with a couple sections removed so there's space for them to grow with a 645w led full spectrum light and add air stones in the reservoir. I'm trying to figure out the recipe from the guide what they would be in Ml per gallon has anybody used the guide or know the measurements

You mention that transplanting to the tower garden too early or planting seeds directly into the tower garden is a mistake. Could you explain why? I am a member of a forum for tower gardeners and many people report doing these things successfully and routinely, so I am wondering if there is a "sciency" reason not to.

LMFAO 🤣😆🤣😆 Masterclass LMFAO 🤣😆🤣😆 This was far from a master class Good try though. There is numerous things you didn't discuss, in regards to the subjects you touched on. For example, your statements on pH. Anybody who has grown with hydro and or aero knows about, what is called the ph drift. Which can happen within hours. So your statements about when and how often you check your pH is terrible. Think about it this way. If your plant is taking up more water than nutes. Or if your plant is taking up more nutes than water. What do you think is going to happen ? The pH will drift one way or the other. So it's important to check your pH daily. And in flower a few times a day. Another very important subject, you didn't even touch on, WTF. And that is cleaning your equipment at least every 2 weeks. And that consist of a complete nute solution exchange. I've been growing with lPA ( Low Pressure Aeroponics ) for over 20 years. And I have never or will I ever use hydrogen peroxide. Sorry but it just doesn't sound like something I want to give my plants. Yes it will kill all the bad bacteria. But it also kills all the good bacteria and microbes. And yes it is said that when growing with hydro or aero. That you can't have microbes in your system. Because there is no place for them to reproduce and grow. And I say bullshit. It depends on what kind of system you are using. In my situation since I'm growing with LPA my roots are not constantly sitting in a solution. My roots get sprayed for 6 seconds every 15 mins. So the microbes reproduce and grow on the roots. And this is what eliminates all if any of the bad bacteria that would cause root rot. Anyway thats enough free advise. And this is just a few little things I have learned from growing with LPA over the last 20 years. Good luck everyone.

Technically, pH is a measurement of acidity only.

What part of dc

tds ppm is just a calculation of ec so just use ec

I'm glad I found this video! I saw agrotonomy and immediately thought to myself "I could just make these myself" and started researching hydro/aeroponics

You are god sent!

Great info. You’re the best

Thankyou 😊😊

Thank you for making the time to make this!

Great information. Thank you for sharing!

What if you are growing inside? Will you still get them?

Do you have a video on how to best start/germinate the seeds for a tower garden? (Asking for someone who just bought a tower garden and has already done 2/5 of these 🙈) For example, best practices, when and if you should feed them in the germination tray, how long to wait or what to look for when transferring to the tower, when to introduce the rock wool into the net pot ....

I personally hate the blue/red sheen of the full spectrum ones. I am not a light sensitive person, but these colors just piss me off. So what I've generally done for my houseplants (mostly tropical greens, non-flowering). Is that, I use Airam Superlux LED in combo with Airam Plant lights LED (full spectrum. LED PAR30 835 800lm E27). The Superlux cancels out much of the visible to the eye blue/red sheen from the grow light, as the Superlux has such a powerful lumen and light spread, vs the grow light. Perhaps a bit inconvenient, needing 2 like that, but I rather make that investment and be creative with the decor aspect of how to set it up in a pleasing way. In order to have the plants grow beautifully through the winter months (north of Sweden), while also still being able to enjoy a welcoming and cozy looking indoor environment.

You should use hydroguard! It alone makes better roots than that, plus it helps if your water is warmer than normal! I used in in DWC Bubble Buckets, and in 24 hours, the roots had spikes

You’re awesome dude

Cool ! , I'm in the process of DIY ing grow towers for a my own commercial polytunnel. Thanks for the video.

So I’m growing basil indoors. It’s a full grown plant already but blue light sounds like the best option if I want more leaves

Thank you for this!!

Just curious …what is the bin container made out of ? Is it a “safe “ plastic ?

Are those buckets BPA free?

Nice.

Really appreciated this simple tutorial, thank you Sir! (And thank you Science!)

How can I have larvs in my hydroponic sallad? Any help? My crops grows differently so this 10cm doesn't work

100-150w led bulb that uses 60w 6500k works well for vegging the plant and fits in regular socket. Good for house plants anyways.

I guess if you're using one solution for multiple systems the averaging system would work relatively well, but honestly you just want to find the PH scale and overlap the charts. That would give you the range you need rather than constantly adding acid into the system. All that acid that you add just messes with the water chemistry. it might spike to the level you want but eventually you will need to add more acid depending on the system and each time you do the chemistry of the water changes. So as a rule of thumb you only need to use acid when you need to, that's only when the ph is about to hit the end of either side of the PH bracket. I personally use an auto doser for my hydroponic system but they're very expensive and I wouldn't recommend them for anyone just starting off.

Shouldn't basically any light without heavy cooling produce a good amount of infrared? I wonder how big the impact of an normal amount of IR diodes vs the IR of the lamp as a whole is in comparison. In my experience plants really love soft diffused light along witha bit IR as the heat gives them a bit of a boost when growing tropical plants in normal household conditions.

Before you comment about Mycelium being a good thing, please consider: I did not intentionally grow this Mycelium, there are only 2 outcomes from letting this grow more. 1 mushrooms will grow in my garden, 2 mold will grow in my garden. I am trying to grow a Lemon tree, not mushrooms or mold. Thank you verry much.

Professeur, je n'arrive pas à télécharger les document gratuits ?

Merci professeur pour ces détails. Sinon j'ai toujours des préoccupations concernant le ph. Est ce que l'on doit faire des ajustements de ph durant l'évolution de la plante? Car d'autres personnes disent qu'il ne font pas d'ajustement de pH et d'autres personnes disent qu'ils le font ? Selon vous professeur cest quoi la bonne technique concernant la question du ph ? Doit on faire des ajustements de ph ?

I want to clarify a number of things not discussed in this video. Not because the information is particularly wrong. But it's somewhat misleading. I'm an engineer, so I'm going to approach this from an engineering perspective. I have been doing research on grow light spectra for a number of years. I have tested just about every bulb I can get my hands on, from super cheap home lighting LEDs, to very high-end LED grow lights. I have access to expensive optical spectrometers that allow me to measure these bulbs. First some background on how LED lightbulbs work. White LEDs use a true blue LED diode (emitting light around 450 nm) with a combination of phosphors. The phosphors absorb the blue light, and re-emit light at longer wavelengths. The color temperature is determined (almost always, except for super specialty bulbs) not by the type of phosphors used. But by the amount of phosphors used. Typical home lighting LED bulbs use 4 or 5 phosphors. Each phosphor emits a different wavelength such that the sum of light appears white to humans. The wavelengths are around 510, 530, 575, 610, and 660 nm. These cover the range from green, yellow, into deep red. The amount of these phosphors combined with some of the LEDs true blue light mixes and produces white. The "Soft White" bulbs typically have more of these phosphors and emit very little blue light, emitting mostly orange and red, with some blue, and a tiny amount of green. The "Cool White" bulbs emit mostly blue with a bit of orange and red, and almost no green. The specific wavelength of the phosphors used is identical in all LED bulbs due to chemical and physical limitations, manufacturing technology momentum, and market forces. It's simply easier to standardize. These phosphors/wavelengths are also based on what our current technology allows. While other phosphors do exist, they are not used outside of research applications due to cost, chemical safety, etc. Arbitrary wavelength phosphors are not possible since it's based on the chemical nature of the phosphor itself. Similarly to how LEDs only come in specific wavelengths. So what is different about "Grow Lights" The short answer is basically nothing. I do want to point out that there are the purple style grow lights that are comprised mostly of blue and red LEDs. These contain very little or no green and yellow wavelengths, as generally these are seen as less useful to plants. This type of grow light uses plain blue and red LEDs without phosphors.The type of grow light this video discusses is "full spectrum" white grow lights. It's generally accepted that full spectrum is better for plants. But there are some caveats I'll discuss below. The "Full Spectrum" grow lights typically only change one thing: the amount of red phosphor relative to the others. That is, they use the same phosphors as above, but they contain a higher proportion of red. They also typically contain fewer phosphors overall, and emit more of the LED's blue light. This offsets some of the red light, so the light doesn't look red to humans. So more blue, more red, and less yellow and green. The electrical efficiency of grow lights is no better or worse than regular LED bulbs. The amount of light output per watt of electricity is generally 140 lumens per watt. Now a note about plants. It's generally accepted that different wavelengths perform different actions in the plant. Long wavelength UV (350-400 nm) can help promote fungus and pest resistance. Blue light helps prevent activating the plants' shade response which makes long and leggy. This makes it more bushy, and reduces inter-nodal length. Generally 5-15% of UV and blue is sufficient, and more has little effect, except to generate heat and use energy (These frequencies are photosynthetically active, but are very chemically inefficient). Green, yellow and orange are photosynthetically active in the same way as red. However, they are generally less important as they are chemically less efficient than red. The one caveat to this is that some people claim green and yellow help produce better tasting and more nutritious plants. I have not done any research on this. Red is where the plant gets most of its energy. Except too much red, or infrared (>700 nm) can stimulate the plant's shade response, making it leggy, and floppy. So now the million dollar question. As an engineer I want to clarify the goal of the grow lights. And I want to be specific. For some people, it might be that they want to grow the most plants in the smallest area. For others, it might be that they want to grow the most plants with the least energy cost. For others, it might be that they want to produce the healthiest, best looking plants regardless of energy or space consumption. -- For me, I have little room. I want to grow plants in a small space with as little electricity as possible. But I don't like the purple color of red/blue lights. For me, a mix of cool white, and warm white LED bulbs is just fine, and will perform just as well as "grow lights". -- For someone who wants to grow plants commercially, healthy plants with as little energy consumption. Red/blue lights is probably the best bet. -- Expensive "grow lights" are for people with lots of money, who just want healthy plants at any cost. I personally believe, after years of empirical testing (both of spectral measurements, and growing plants), that "grow light" is just a keyword that they can put on the label so they can charge 5-10x as much. I have never seen substantial difference in plant quality between fancy and cheap LEDs as long as the plants get sufficient light to begin with. In all cases, the most important factor is how MUCH light the plants get. The sun puts out insane amounts of light. (generally accepted to be 1000 watts/m^2 on a bright day)(this equals about 100000 lumens per m^2). A light bulb will put out *maybe* 1/200 of this if you have it really close to your plants. You'd need about 120 LED bulbs covering each m^2 to equal sunlight intensity. The more impactful change you can make to grow healthy plants indoors is simply add more light.

Have you tried aeroponics for the tree? I know lemons typically don't like to be super wet. Maybe it would help with some of issues?

Clear jars help to promote algae.

Why do a tree in hydroponics? I sort of assumed hydroponics should only be done on short term plants.

What about the micro nutrients? How do you put that in the water?

Hello folks I finally got a video up on you guys I was wondering where you guys were So what part of the world you guys living in now I seen a a short video the other day .

Great vid👍

I’ve had sativas nearly 10ft high and yeah brother they’re thirsty especially in flower 😂 (outdoors) if ya worried about granny hit it with the chitosan now that’ll get the terps up! 😂💀 seriously though enjoy the journey i spent nearly 10 years with my best friend working on them. Hopefully I can find your follow up video on this because the flowers no offence seemed pretty small but I’m use to much larger plants, flowers as thick as a 2L coke bottle. When it gets heavy and thick watch that pm it’s about to get rough 😂

Great vid, really apreciate all the hard work you put into these video's while also sharing you're knowledge for free!

The is THE BEST video on this subject, thanks for the great information and the effort.

👀you can keep the bamboo it will take over your whole yard here gold coast QLD

Even better solution are LED reflektor lights like the ones that are used in construction to light up the rooms. They are low watt and extremely bright. Also extremely cheap compared to grow lights

May try kratky once my cuttings finish propogating. Curious to see how they perform against flushing put nutrients once weekly. Excited to try these tiny tims.

Have you experimented with 3d printing parts for your DIY towers?

Do I need direct sunlight? or Can I grow In somewhat shed area where sunlight often comes?