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Fill from the top where the plug you took out, fill where the plug came out.

I took all 6 bolts out, but not sure how the "flathead" screwdriver part works. Wish the video was longer and contained that part. I suspect the bracket on the bottom has to be removed, which means one more bolt. Either that or the exhaust manifold, which your video shows you didn't remove, so I'm thinking bracket is easiest. Was about to do it an hour ago, but it started raining.

Super common on 1.4T, waste gate bushing wears out, gate doesn’t close all the way. Throws a underboost code.

Needs turbo

Waste gate is cracked Once you remove turbo you’ll see it I’m assuming low boost DTC?

The flapper on the inside of the turbo needs to be adjusted.

The wastegate valve port on the inside usually crack. Would recommened pulling the trubo and checking it.

wastegate issue maybe?

Needs a turbo

I was thinking wastegate and wastegate flapper issue not closing shut completely I where I'd start

Fuel filter without regulator can make problems on this engines?

What are the symptoms of a bad left side outer tie rod end

You got a video on the cvt fluid change ?

Thanks bro thats odd my tranny fluid stick is right on top

Dude, you are funny! I was crackin up at some of your comments. 😂

Great video, is there any tips for getting the manifold back on, am having an absolute nightmare trying to realign the remaining studs on the cylinder head to the manifold.

Źle części ,zła diagnoza

Ty so much

Is there a Haynes manual for getting the rack & pinion out? I have a 96 A4 that I need to replace the rack & pinion on.

So pissed bc I tried doing this and the socket worked for the alternator bolts but not for the power steering pump, and the socket I used was JUST half an inch too long to use a proper ratchet on. AND it refused to lineup with the power steering up. Super fed up with this job.

Great review of this product. No bullshit

Same as s4 from 2006?

What size fixings were used?

Cool info . I’ll do mine tomorrow….

Very cool thanks Roy

Was it an EVO electronic assist?

Great idea....my Sportstech F10 has the same problem....it seems loads of Treadmills do the same plastic pully on a metal bar...designed to fail. And you buy a new front roller or Treadmill!! Not this time!! 😃👍👏👏👏

thanks for the video same car explosion happen with my car later all the antifreeze started leaking

Video debe hacerlo de día o tener buena iluminación para que se vea algo y no oscuro

Finally, somebody that really knows what has been going on with my treadmill !! I have a Sportcraft TX 400 (bought from Walmart 7-2003) treadmill!!! ❤️ I've been trying to figure this out for YEARS!!!! Thank you so much for your video!!

Mine is almost 40,000 miles and my engine is super clean it gets dusty wipe it with a microfiber cloth.

I put a circuit tester with voltage display to the white wire and tried to start it. It lit up and gave me a reading of 8.3v . Is that saying my starter is bad

This is definitely going to be my problem. I am missing my skid plate. Thank you so much for making this video. I looked up the part on Rock Auto and assumed it went on the transfer case. Now I just need to order a skid plate….

Hey man, thanks for the video! Hope you see this, curious a couple years later how things have held up! Appreciate the work you took to film everything!

Drain engine first then the filter.

thank you! Still helping people out 4 years later

thank you, great video

hope that took care of it. May want to drop the pan and put fresh fluid in it. With the miles on it a flush may cause more harm than good. I love this kit have the same one on my 8 speed Sierra.

Waste of time video, talk talk but not showing anything… disappointing

This shows nothing. How did you take the valve out? How did you put it back?

Roy: I should point out that Subaru recommends the use of Subaru Extra MT (gear lube) for both differentials. They further state as an alternative, a GL-5 SAE 75W-90 may be used, however, using this type of “oil” (gear lube) will detract from drivability and fuel efficiency. Is Subaru referring to the typical full synthetic 75W-90 when they say you "will detract from drivability and fuel efficiency," but are they excluding the increase in such benefits when using a 100% Synthetic Gear Oil? You may recall the comments I made last night, when I changed the former factory-filled “full-synthetic” 75W-90 gear oil in my 2013 Subaru Tribeca and inserted Amsoil “100 synthetic” Severe Gear 75W-90 Gear Lube in both differentials at about 40,000 miles. I experienced a quite noticeable and remarkable pick up in performance (as if I could actually feel more torque delivered to the 4 wheels) that I never experienced with the factory-filled gear lube. Although I did not specifically test the fuel mileage both before and after the gear-lube change, I suspect that it nevertheless would have improved the MPG as well with the reduction of friction. This type of gear lube is suitable for vehicles (like my Tribeca) with limited-slip rear differential (considering that the Ascent is the replacement vehicle for the Tribeca, I’m not aware whether your Ascent has the limited-slip rear differentia or not). Yes, the gear lube in the front differential can be filled from under the hood. Although the rear differential has to be filled underneath the vehicle, Amsoil provides a collapsible/flexible plastic one quart containers that makes installation a snap underneath the vehicle with tight spaces. Amsoil also sells this lube in regular plastic-quart bottles (like the rest of the industry), 5 gallon pails, 16 kegs and 55 gallon drums, but in these varieties they will require a pumping device to deliver the lube to the rear differential. Ahmed, the owner of TCCN Automotive and the producer of numerous TH-cam Videos on the channel of The Car Care Nut (also a former Toyota Master Mechanic for 20 years) is a friend of mine and his shop maintains my Toyota Camry. He recommends changing gear lubes in differentials every 30,000 miles (and changing the ATF in transmissions and CVT Fluid in CVTs every 50,000 miles). Ahmed purchases the Severe Gear for the Toyota and Lexus customers of his shop that have differentials. Amsoil warranties the Severe Gear to last 100,000 miles for “normal driving,” but only 50,000 miles for “severe driving,” as defined by your owners manual. Amsoil states that the 75W-90 Severe Gear has a Flash Point of 431.6 F (222 C) and a Pour Point of -45 F. (-43 C). Amsoil claims this lube delivers excellent performance in hot and cold extremes; improves fuel economy through its lack of waxes that facilitates cold-flow properties; specifically engineered for maximum performance in severe duty applications; maintains viscosity for long-lasting protection against metal-to- metal contact; contains proprietary Amsoil additives to form an iron-sulfide barrier coating on gear surfaces, further preventing wear, pitting and scoring; helps to prevent “thermal runaway,” which is a condition caused by a lubricant’s inability to control friction and increased heat under high-stress conditions; and inhibits rapid lubricant degradation. Since your vehicle contains both a turbocharger and direct injection that are murderous on conventional oil, synthetic blends and full-synthetic motor oil, may I introduce you to the full line of Amsoil 100% synthetic Motor Oils? Also to prevent a buildup of carbon on your valves from the effects of Direct Injection, we have Amsoil PI Performance Improver Gasoline Additive that is designed to remove the carbon and if used every 4,000 miles it will temporarily prevent the carbon from returning. I invite you to check out the Reviews of the CVT Fluid by Verified Customers of Amsoil to see the owner of a Subaru who went from Valvoline to Amsoil and to see his favorable comments regarding the Amsoil CVT. Also, a customer from Nova Scotia describing her increased fuel economy in her Nissan Maxima from Amsoil CVT Fluid and an air filter going from 9.4 liters every 100 kms to 8.5 liters every 100 kms. I converted the equation to miles and gallons to arrive at the equivalent of increasing her fuel mileage from 25 MPG to 27.64 MPG or a 10.5% increase! Of course, we will never know how much either the fluid or the air filter contributed to this massive increase, but she said her car feels and drives better. A found a gentleman that performed a drop and fill with about 3.25 quarts of Amsoil CVT Fluid in his Kia Forte LXS and he reported the best MPG he obtained before the CVT service was 51 MPG and afterwards he gets upwards of 58 MPG (that translates into a 13.7% increase)! Lastly, you can review the gas mileage increases from the reviews of verified customers of various Amsoil Motor Oils. If you have any questions, please let me know. Thanks!

Roy: I note that you bought a quart of Valvoline CVT Fluid for your Ascent. The following will help establish that Amsoil "100 Synthetic" CVT Fluid is vastly superior to the Valvoline "Full Synthetic" CVT Fluid. You can compare the Safety Data Sheets between Amsoil and Valvoline fluids and you will find the Valvoline (and true of many other full synthetics) is mostly composed of hydrocracked petroleum oil, a Class III Synthetic (extra refined petroleum to mostly eliminate impurities, but it doesn’t get totally get rid of then entirely). Amsoil Signature Series doesn’t contain a drop of petroleum oil, but a pure chemical mixture of Class IV Synthetic polyalphaolefins (PAO) and Class V Synthetic (such as Esters) plus top-shelf additives. Valvoline lists the Flash Point of their CVT Fluid as 219.99 F (104.44 C), whereas Amsoil's Flash Point is listed as 424.4 F (218 C), so Amsoil holds up to the heat far better than the Valvoline. Furthermore, Amsoil lists the Pour Point of their oil (the point where the oil pours out of bottle) at -50.8 F (-46 C), but Valvoline neglected to list the Pour Point of their CVT Fluid! Valvoline Syn Power "Full Synthetic" 0W-20 Motor Oil lists the Flash Point of their oil as 390 F (199 C), whereas Amsoil "100 Synthetic" Signature Series 0W-20 Motor Oil is listed as 428 F (220 C), so Amsoil holds up to the heat better than the Valvoline. Furthermore, Amsoil lists the Pour Point of their oil (the point where the oil pours out of bottle) at -63 F (-53 C), but once again Valvoline neglected to list the Pour Point of their oil. You may question why Valvoline doesn't disclose the Pour Point of their their aforesaid CVT Fluid and Motor Oil? The difference between a Full Synthetic and a 100% Synthetic? Rafe Britton, a former Lubrication Engineer at Mobil and the creator of a number of highly educational TH-cam Videos under the heading of “Lubrication Explained,” states in order for an oil company to call its oil product 100% synthetic, it must be composed of either a Class IV Synthetic (PAO) and/or Class V Synthetic (such as Esters), while being completely devoid of refined petroleum. I had tried the Full Synthetic Valvoline about 25 years ago at a quick lube facility, but I was so unsatisfied the performance of my vehicle, I immediately drove back and complained to the owner or manager. They surprisingly emptied my car’s crankcase and filled it up with Mobil 1, which in my opinion was better than Valvoline. I began to utilize Mobil 1 for several years thereafter, until I found Amsoil being sold by an auto parts store that is no longer in operation. After I personally emptied the Mobil 1 and I put it in the Amsoil in my car about 20 years ago, I was blown away with the increased performance, better fuel efficiency and the overall quietness of my engine. Since 2004 I have exclusively been using 100% synthetic oils, fluids and gear oils made by Amsoil. In my 2013 Subaru Tribeca I use 5W-30, which has a Pour Point (PP) of -58 F and my Toyota Camry uses 0W-20, which has a PP of -63 F. I have never experienced any problems starting my vehicles any longer using 100 synthetic products . I also changed the 100% Synthetic ATF in both my vehicles at about 40,000 miles (the Multi-Vehicle ATF in my Tribeca’s transmission and power steering reservoir has a PP of -63 F, while the Fuel-Efficient ATF in my Camry has a PP of -85 F). Also around 40,000 miles, I changed the gear oil in both differentials in the Tribeca with Amsoil 100% synthetic 75W-90 Gear Oil (that has a PP of -45 F), which ran much better at any time than the original full synthetic gear oil from the Subaru Factory. I also changed the Coolant and brake fluid in both vehicles to Amsoil. Another benefit of using Amsoil (other than the great performance), my vehicles are covered by the widest warranty in the business regardless of the age and mileage of your vehicle, even if this was the first time trying Amsoil (as long as your vehicle was in good mechanical condition at the time you first started using Amsoil). For full disclosure, I am an Independent Amsoil Dealer (all dealers of Amsoil are independent contractors, as opposed to employees of Amsoil). I assume your shop is a mechanical shop and if so (and providing you are interested), I can enable you to become an Amsoil Retail Account, where your shop can obtain a 30% discount on Amsoil products (with opportunties to achieve even greater discounts). Your customers will derive both the benefits of the smooth performing 100% synthetic products, as well as being protected by the Amsoil Warranty. There is free shipping availabe to Retail Accounts when they order $400 or more per shipment. You can send me an email to AutomotiveBuff, at my gmail address with your contact information and I will promptly contact you. If consumers wish to buy the Amsoil products as a Preferred Customer (PC), they will get the oil at a 25% discount, plus free shipping when they spend $100 (plus receiving a $5 coupon for every $100 you spend). It only costs $10 for a 6 month PC membership and there is no requirement to purchase (as there is with so many companies offering a membership for a preferred customer program, where there is an automatic shipment involved). If you don't have a commercial shop, but you are tempted to try Amsoil, I invite you to visit the official website of Amsoil and apply to become my Preferred Customer, by kindly utilizing my name (James Norris) in the box underneath the question that asks “Did someone refer you to Amsoil? If so, please tell us.” Then in the next box they ask “Have a Referral Number? Enter it below:”. I kindly ask that you include my Referral Number of 1420935 in that box. If you can write down my name and referral number, before you eventually decide to exit this webpage, it will be appreciated (so that it will be at your fingertips when you get on the Amsoil website). I also invite you to review the wonderful comments made by "verified customers" of Amsoil products (you can see how impressive their vehicles perform and many of them reporting an increase in MPG). Thank you for your time.

Looking for a video replacing the valve end seal

I have the same Nordictrack 1500! Same problem. I’ve been searching the web for weeks until I saw your video. Thanks so much for doing this. I’m going to give it a try. Those of you asking what size screw he used, he flashed them quickly on the screen: 8 X 5/8 self tapping Lag Screws

BRAVO

Thank you - very helpful.

You don't need to loosen struts ...or tierods ...you will need alignment !!!.remove lower ball joint from knuckle !! And then you can swing knuckle out enough to clear axel spline ...

But I have a question as well I have a 08 BMW x3 suv and my car was doing the same thing I drive and then it would shoot up to overheating and red and I would have to slow down to make the temperature go down And so I fixed it like 3 days ago and it’s doing the same thing going back up to red and now I don’t know what to do 😢

Each pad has 4 spots to be greased. On the caliper are channel ways that should be cleaned of rust and dirt and carefully greased (not to get any grease on the rotor or friction material on the pads)

I love the way this video, starts, I'm off work for a few days because I got covid. So naturally the best way to kick covid is by staying home and installing a suspension lift on your truck. Now I know what some of you are saying, "well I just stayed home in bed trying to get some rest, but it was only because I didn't have a truck to lift or I would probably have done that too." And others are saying, " l did the stay in home bed thing too but that's only because my truck is already lifted." Excuses, excuses...😅😅😅