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I sold the car so I can’t say for sure, but I think it might.

​@marclovescars no it's a Volvo system with the 4D60 glass type transponder

No unfortunately it isn’t. Aim for 10 gauge (lower number is better) or use at least 12 gauge (what I use, but I really should be using 10 gauge).

$45,000. Doing all the deferred maintenance at a top Aston shop cost me another $15,000, so I was $60K all in. Complete waste of money, I lost a fortune when I sold it, but I wasn’t happy with the car so it had to go. Glad I sold it when I did, prices have only dropped further. Astons are dirt cheap, for a reason.

@ thanks for the reply, that’s good you were able to sell it. I bet the loss is easier than having a car you don’t like every day. Good for you putting in the proper maintenance. Tons of people don’t

@ Thanks. When I own a car I make sure it is in top running condition and beautiful. The new owner got an incredible deal. Like you said, especially with Astons, people neglect all the maintenance and leave it for the next guy. Sad but true.

@@marclovescars I wish I could have gotten yours! I'm looking now and that's how I found your video. A lot seem to be sitting for long times (especially on dealer lots) or somewhat neglected in general but people want top dollar because they look nice on the outside.

@ I see, well I wish I could have sold it to you! Wishing you the best with the car search. There’s little demand for used Astons and that’s why they sit on lots. As you noted, almost all have been sitting around for a long time and have a ton of deferred maintenance, often 5 or more owners, but dealers still ask top dollar. Most dealers don’t even inspect the cars well nor do they know what to look for on an Aston. The guy who owned mine before me bought it with 5 years of deferred maintenance and bald tires, and the dealer he got it from said it was mint and needed nothing. It’s tough out there man and I wish you the best. Best advice I can give is take any Vantage you’re considering to an independent Aston mechanic, get a PPI so you know what you’re getting into. Use the repairs noted in the PPI to negotiate the price down. I’d normally recommend BringATrailer because sellers usually bring excellent cars to sell - it’s where I sold my Vantage - but, 90% of Vantages on there also just sat around and weren’t maintained at all, and have little to no service records. But, if you buy from a top seller it’s usually less dangerous than buying from some random local dealer. If you find a few Vantages you think look good, send them my way and I’ll give you my opinion.

Yep that’s what I did to clean the branch up, but the pruning shears couldn’t budge that 2” thick branch before I tested the chainsaw. I probably need better/sharper shears.

Yes, understood, I get the same result in service mode though. I made a video about to how to enter service mode a while back.

Amazing! You can’t go wrong. Just get a thorough PPI and make sure the car has solid maintenance history. Then get in and drive! These are incredible cars.

Yes this is normal. I’d say it’s worse for passengers because the movements are random - you are not controlling acceleration or regeneration - so your brain can’t make the connection between throttle input and expect acceleration or deceleration soon after. I will say you’ll get used to it though, whether a driver or passenger. I’ve owned my Tesla almost 4 years now and I absolutely LOVE acceleration and regeneration now that I’m used to them. I can’t get enough, honestly. Hybrids will not have the same effect on you, they are very smooth and most aren’t that powerful. You’ll hardly notice the transitions. The electric motor and battery in a hybrid vehicle aren’t that strong, they’re just there for a little extra boost, they don’t have the face-flattening torque that a Tesla has.

I’m with you. I don’t know why the battery usage is so extreme. Even if it activates 30 times per night, not sure why it uses a mile of range each time.

That’s true, but when I published this video 4 years ago, there weren’t. Using an extension cord was a bit taboo and frowned upon back then. Once everyone started doing it the wrong way, Tesla stepped in with recommendations. Mine has been flawless BTW but I’d buy a heavier gauge if I had to replace it.

Where to buy ?

Agree 100%. In manual mode I really like it! I think all the sequential manual gearboxes (Ferrari, BMW, etc.) had terrible shifting in auto mode, the problem definitely wasn’t unique to Aston.

Guilty as charged!

I've had mine for 10 years I have the coupe which is a git lighter and I have a rock solid suspension you may have needed work done or new suspension components. The gear shift/gearbox is by Graziono. Which is found in Lamborghini, Ferrari, Maserati, Audi and obviously Aston Martin

Maybe I did miss the point, but I’m 50 years old - old enough to appreciate the car - though most owners I know are 60-70 years old so I was one of the “younger” owners I know. I’ve owned a dozen manual transmission cars over 30 years and driven hundreds of others, including dozens of manual exotics. I’ve also had driving lessons from professional drivers. Is it possibly the 6-speed on the Vantage just isn’t that good? Graziano is a fine gear box, I’ve driven many of them. But there’s more to transmissions than just the gear box (shift linkage, calibration, etc. - that’s where the Vantage falls short IMO). Vantage owners tend to view the cars in a one-sided way, thinking they are somehow as good as a used Ferrari but for 1/4 the price, and that they’ve stumbled onto some best kept secret. Aston’s in general depreciate horribly. Why do you think that is? No one wants them, and in my view it’s because they aren’t very good cars to own and drive. I don’t think it’s the maintenance costs - Astons are pretty reliable, and costs to service aren’t bad for an exotic. If maintenance costs were the issue, cars like Ferraris, Lamborghinis and Porsches would also depreciate badly, but they don’t. Those cars are amazing to drive, and most Astons are not. I’ve driven many. That said, thanks for your comment, to each his own! Happy motoring.

​@@marclovescarsI'm 61 and I've owned Ferrari and Porsche which are completely different cars. By the way you're a mighty (sound) young 50...

I’ll take that as a compliment, any “young” attributes are desirable at this point. One thing I think we can agree on: For the money, Astons are the best value out there. A lot of car and very special for the money. They just aren’t for me. I know hundreds of exotic car owners that feel the same way, none of them would touch any model Aston. Different strokes for different folks. Astons aren’t for everyone, and I think that’s the point. It’s great that you’ve been around the exotic car block (so to speak) and love your Aston. The cars are beautiful and exotic and I’m glad there are people like you who are so passionate about them. The Aston owner community is wonderful too, I do miss that. All the best to you.

@ In summary, I think you are right. I expected something out of the Vantage that isn’t there, and I probably wasn’t ready for Aston ownership in general. I wanted Porsche power and maneuverability. Astons excel at other things, and I didn’t appreciate those things enough. I blame impulsivity (mine), the exotic Aston Martin sex appeal, and the fact that car magazines have been saying for ages that a Vantage is a worthy 911 competitor and/or replacement. In 10 years I may be ready to give Aston another shot. I’m already thinking about it. And I’d probably go with my first loves which were a DB9 or a Virage. Those cars are more clearly GT cars and I definitely can appreciate a good long drive in style. Thanks for the feedback.

I believe the 2017 refresh has fender cameras, which should enable blind spot monitoring as long as you have the latest software update.

No, but they’re pretty similar.

@ I’m asking this cuz I’m looking for a driver door and the fender also and it’s hard to find them so if the i4 and 4-series are the same parts then it’s will be easier for me to find.

@ Gotcha. I think the body panels are in fact different. You’d have to ask a body shop to know for sure.

Good tip, thanks. Years ago they said 10 gauge was sufficient. I’ve been charging with a 10 gauge extension cord for years. It never gets hot and gives me the same miles/hr charge as the Tesla mobile charger. I assumed that meant it was safe. Now you’ve got me thinking though.

Good luck with that. I’d never buy an “owner repaired” Aston from anyone.

Whoa, that’s incredible!

Congrats! Solid deal there! 300K miles easy.

@ 151k on an Acura is 50k on any other car 😂

@ Agree 100%!

I’m about an hour south of Sonoma county. Dublin-Pleasanton-San Ramon-Danville area.

Could not agree more. The lines, the rear hips. Like artwork.

Hmm…12 gauge should be sufficient on a 110V outlet, though my extension cord is only 10 feet long so length could be a factor here. My Tesla also sometimes shows slower charge speeds yet never officially tells me “Charging rate reduced”. Does your extension cord get hot? Have you ever had an issue with your Tesla wall charger by itself? What model and year Tesla do you have?

@@Divvy6 Indeed that is some serious battery degradation. I believe the mid range had a rated range of 250 to 260 miles when new. I also seem to recall Tesla combining some of the models, meaning the mid range became the standard range +. In any case I don’t think your degradation is as bad as it looks, you may want to visit a Tesla dealer and inquire about this. Standard range plus was rated I believe at 240 miles, which would still be some pretty serious degradation for you (23%). Something seems off there. I know of many 1st gen Model 3s with over 100K miles with much less degradation. Hopefully the dealer can clear this up, meanwhile, if the battery degradation is actually this severe, it’s a good time to get it on the dealer’s radar because your battery is covered by an eight year warranty.

Appreciate your comment! It’s a difficult decision indeed. Caymans are great but small and stiff riding. But man, for $35K you simply cannot beat a 987 Cayman S, what a car. 911 is ideal and 996, 997, 991 generations are all great and relatively affordable. Wish I could offer more guidance but I still haven’t found my dream Porsche either. I’ve driven a lot of them but few have really spoken to me. 997 Turbo is probably my favorite so far, but they run $100K plus for a manual, yikes. You can almost get a 991 Turbo S for that money, and the latter is a scary fast car. Best of luck with your search!

You can measure the voltage, just don’t jump start it from the rear. I tried hooking jumper cables to the battery and sparks literally flew. Perhaps that was a one-off issues specific to my car though, not sure. FYI I also get different voltage readings when measuring at the battery vs the under-hood posts. So I just do everything under the hood.

Thanks! 👍

Love the enthusiasm! All great points.

Agreed, I worked with what I had. Had the car for a very short period of time and had to return it.

True, and yet most people don’t do it, hence the stains on the seal.

Good choice! Aero is the best trim level by far.

Hmm, I have not heard that before.

Ah interesting, thanks for sharing. I believe the 2020 was rated for 250 miles, so you’ve lost 40 miles or 16% of battery life, with 84% battery capacity remaining. That’s quite a drop, but I suppose not terrible. It’s funny, lots of people claim you’ll lose 5% capacity quickly and then your battery degradation will level off. Not true, in this case.

@marclovescars Yes, tessie app says 14.3 degradation. I do know that my car will do all of the 210 miles easily in town. On the highway at 70mph I can't go any further than 160 - 170 miles without a charge. At around 165 real world highway miles my battery will say about 3%. Thanks for responding man

@@ThatCasinoLife Sure thing. That all sounds about right.

​@@ThatCasinoLifeyou have battery warrantly ?

@raphI_I yes, almost 24k miles left with the 100k tesla warranty and an additional 25k miles with a warranty I bought when I purchased the car. So it's covered up to 125k miles. So far so good 👍🏾

At the time of my video it was ~400. Tesla may have updated it since, but I have a screenshot from the Tesla website in 2021 showing 3,600 pounds vs. 4,000+. If the difference is greater I wouldn’t doubt it though. SR+ for lightness!

At the time of my video it was ~400. Tesla may have updated it since, but I have a screenshot from the Tesla website in 2021 showing 3,600 pounds vs. 4,000+. If the difference is greater I wouldn’t doubt it though. SR+ for lightness!

@@marclovescars It's fascinating because I bought my 2023 Toyota 4Runner in two-wheel drive because it was 275 pounds lighter than the 4WD model and 405 pounds lighter than the 4WD Limited model. I am about to trade it in for a used Model 3 and of course I wanted the long range and dual motor, but in fact 602 pounds is a lot of weight. That's easily four adults in the car with me. Are they using the same shocks and springs on both cars? I hope not. I am now going to get the SR+ for lightness. I want a nimble car, not a pig.

@@greatpariscars​​⁠Yep 602 additional pounds is an immense amount of weight, too much of a tradeoff there. Bigger heavier battery, extra motor, and yes maybe revised suspension to cope with the weight (we would hope so!) are the main factors. What source did you find that confirms the difference is 602 pounds?

Hmm interesting, haven’t heard this tip before. Any idea why that works? Do the liquid additives encourage mold growth? Obviously there’s more in liquid detergent than soap and water.

Bullshit 😂 Clean you washer and dont BE lazy

Great comment. Agree on driver assist. I’ve owned a Tesla for many years and I don’t use the “self driving” at all. It has gotten better but you really have to pay attention and be ready to take control at any moment, I’ve had many close calls even when paying attention.